Triton 83304130

A: It could be the PCB that is at fault.

A: 

If when youswitch off the shower at the main isolator and the shower keeps running thenyou have a faulty solenoid.

 

When youswitch off the shower at the main isolator  and the water stops  running, then you have a faulty on/off switchor a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking on.

 

So in yourcase I think you need a new solenoid

 

 

A: 

You don’t mention which shower you have, however........

 

If when you switch off the shower at the main isolatorand the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid.

 

When you switch off the shower at the mainisolator  and the water stops  running, then you have a faulty on/off switchor a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking on.

 

 

 

A: If the shower has power to it and no water coming out then it does sound like the solenoid coil on the soleneoid valve assembly has gone faulty.

These are other known symptoms that a coil is about to go or has gone faulty:

Electricity getting to the shower and no water. 
Shower works intermittently.
Water cuts off and then after 5-10 mins and can be switched on again and work. 
There is a leak dripping on the coil from above and then shower cuts out.
There is a very loud buzzing noise form the solenoid coil on the solenoid valve.
The water cuts off completely and wont come back on and there is electricity to the shower.  

If you are experiencing any of the above then you can replace the solenoid coil without the valve or you can replace the complete solenoid valve assembly. 

You can find both the coil and the solenoid valve assembly on the spares diagram for your shower in this link provided - http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-38-Triton-Trance


 

A: Good afternoon,

Thank you for your email.

It sounds very much like your solenoid coil has failed in the closed position and, as such, is not allowing the valve to open and water to enter the shower. The solenoid needs to be energised constantly throughout the showering experience for water to continue to flow into the unit. However, to be sure beyond reasonable doubt that it is the solenoid at fault then this part needs to be tested with a digital multimeter. When tested with a multimeter, the solenoid should display a resistance reading across its two terminals of at least 3.5k ohms. If the reading obtained is less than this, then the solenoid will need to be replaced. (Remember to test the solenoid in its failed state; i.e. when it is not working.)

Should you require a new solenoid you can order one by following the link below...

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83304130-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-Assembly-83304130

And, if you do not own a digital multimeter, but would like to purchase one, then you can also do this via the website by clicking on the next link below...

http://www.showerdoc.com/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

I hope that this helps you out.

Regards,

The Shower Doctor.

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

 

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: Check that the water supply to the remote unit is ok and the gauze filter in the inlet to the solenoid valve is ok.
If they are ok then it is the solenoid valve, replacement can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83304130-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-Assembly-83304130

A: The solenoid valve for your shower is the 83304130 and the olive you need is a 15mm. the olive is not supplied with the solenoid valve however you can oick one up form your local plumbers merchant or B&Q, we do sell the olives but as a pk of  10 along with other plumbing fittings via the link below:  

Plumbing fittings - http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/plumbing-fittings

Triton Jade spares diagram - http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-80-Triton-Jade

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: The solenoid coil only opens the valve when energised, it does not actively close it. With your fault the whole valve needs to be replaced, it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83304130-Solenoid-valve-assembly

A: Certainly sounds like the solenoid valve has failed, it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below. They are fairly easy to fit with reasonable diy skills.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83304130-Solenoid-valve-assembly

A: Check that mains stopcock and any valve(s) in the supply to the shower are fully open and that mains supply has adequate pressure and flow.
Check the gauze inlet filter in the solenoid valve is not clogged.
Check that the shower hose is not kinked or in any way obstructed and the shower head is clean and clear.
Check that when the temp control is turned from full hot to full cold there is a significant difference in flow.
If all these are ok then it is likely to be the TCO at fault, a replacement can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-22009860-Thermal-cut-out

A: 

If when you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid.

When you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the water stops running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking on.

The replacement is fairly straight forward.

Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantle most of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part out and the new part in.

This sounds more difficult than it actually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc. come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos as you go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding.