Q: Hi. Over the last few months, I am finding that I need to turn my temp dial further towards hot. The flow is slightly down but hardly noticeable. During spring summer, my dial is usually around the 1o'clock position max (winter usually 2o'clock), but it is now beyond where it normally is in winter. At this rate then winter will probably need the position set to 4pm ish. I have decent water pressure, no scale issues, head very clean inside etc. Any ideas what the issue could be and what the remedy may be?
Also, if I need to replace, could the Sport Max 10.8kw replace it using mains water on combi boiler as a few sites suggest can't be used with combi - can't see why it is different to my J92 Sport model???
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Submitted 4 days ago | by
Ryan M, Yorkshire
A: Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve.
These showers work off of the cold mains feed not the feed from combi boilers. Answered 1 day ago | Barrie |
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Q: it goes from normal warm temp to cold , a change in noise happens and when i turn the controle to cold and then back to hot it repairs itself for a few mins and then it happens again .
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Submitted 21 days ago | by
Anonymous, ireland
A: There is a filter in this shower that you need to check first and if this is ok then it is probably the flow valve is faulty. Answered 21 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: Started to cut out during showers, low flow light on, cleaned filter and flushed out inlet, worked for about 10 minutes then cut out again, low flow light on then went out, cleaned again but does not work, lo flow light stays on, could the solenoid in the flow assembly be the cause?
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Submitted 46 days ago | by
Cris, Hastings,East Sussex
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 43 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: I'm replacing the flow valve in my shower and the inline filter from the original valve has split. Please can you let me know if I can obtain replacement filters?
Thanks!
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Submitted 49 days ago | by
Kiboomiz, Nottinghamshire
A: I am afraid that that filter is now obsolete on the newervalves the filter is part of the inlet connector Answered 48 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: have a Mira Sprint 9.5kW shower, the shower turns on fine and after about five minutes turns OFF "LOW FLOW" lights up, what could be the fault?
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Submitted 66 days ago | by
Arthur, luton Beds
A: It maybe your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you shouldhave a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and youneed a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stoppedworking!) If thereis power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a goodchance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If youdon’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to usethem for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful forchecking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and lettingyou know much power you have left in batteries (So youwill know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they arewell worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 65 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: Just wondering if you could clarify why the additional parts need to be ordered if you have this model? The Mira website states the same, but not the reason why...
I've a Pre Dec 2005 Mira Sprint with a leaking flow valve, at first I thought I could just order a replacement, but I'm confused as to why I would also need a new switching assembly? (and more bizzarely, a low flow neon assembly?). Is the whole unit going to break apart when I try to remove it?
Many thanks.
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Submitted 127 days ago | by
Andrew, Redcar, Cleveland
A: Mira altered the design of the flow valve, the new designwould not fit the existing switching assembly....and the new switching assemblywould not correctly fit the existing neon! Answered 126 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: I've got a Mira Sport which works fine but has a knocking sound in operation. The last time this happenned it need a new shower - could you please point me in the direction of the right part that would solve the problem before it gives up the ghost?
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Submitted 138 days ago | by
Printer Medic, Selby, Yorkshire
A: Icould probably do with a little more info. However,is the knocking sound just the water heating , like a kettle coming to theboil? If this is the case then it is just old age and not necessarily somethingto worry about. Myother thought is that it could be coming from the flow valve in which case thatwould need to be replaced. Ifit is not these then you will have to investigate a little further and try toestablish roughly which area the noise is coming from. Answered 135 days ago | The doc |
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Q: I have a Mira Sport 7.5kw it's 3 to 4 years old (newer model). Gets daily use from all in a household of 4. The unit is leaking from the flow valve as far as I can make out and I'm guessing the flow valve has cracked. This is what happened to a previous Mira Sport we had (although that one lasted about 6-7 years before cracking I think).
Is this a common problem with Mira Sport (I have seen a couple of other people mention it)? Anything water or installation related that could be causing the flow valve to crack?
Is the flow valve easy to remove and replace (looks like 4 screws and some o-rings)?
(Sorry for so many questions!)
Thanks Dave
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Submitted 145 days ago | by
Dave, Bristol
A: Theydid have a problem some years ago with the components not being very well gluedtogether and this caused them to fail To bemore specific I would need to know more accurately where about on the valvethey are cracking. Sport Flow Valve Turn off water and power. It may be useful to take photos before and as you stripdown the unit they can be invaluable when reassembling You will need a 'Torx'screwdriver with a T10 bit Cover the waste pipe unless you want to loose the screws Remove screws from 'U' clamp, switching assembly (at topof flow valve),the clip that holds flow valve and heating tank together and thescrews at heating tank outlet pipe. Ease tank and valve forward and slightly right, pull theheating tank away from the valve some water will run out of the tank at thispoint. Allow the tank to hang on thewires strip off the wires from the existing flow valve and refit them to thenew valve. Fit the new check valve(supplied) to the flow valve outlet (Large end in) Using the new 'O' rings (makesure they don’t fall off or become misplaced when fitting) fit the new flowvalve make sure that it locates correctly with the heating tank clip and thelocating pins at the top of the valve locate correctly with the switchingassembly, as you push the whole assembly back into position ensure that theheating tank outlet pipe is in position and the inlet connector is in place. The above procedure is nottechnically difficult however three pairs of hands and the ability to levitatewill help and for sure you will be glad when you see it all back in place! Once everything is back inplace refit all the screws making sure that everything is located correctly andnothing is misaligned. Turn on water and examine forleaks switch on power then turn shower on at cold setting and run for1min. Take care when doing this as shower is nowlive. Refit cover and test at different power settings. If every thing is OK have a shower you deserve it!!!!! PS If I have missed anything or you think of something thatwill make this job easier then please let me know and I’ll add it to theinstructions. PPS The flow valve has recentlychanged it now needs the switching assembly replaced and a new neon at the sametime, these instructions have not yes been up dated to take this in to account. Flow valve http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-507-Flow-Valve-Assembly Switching assembly http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-509-Switching-Assembly Neon http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-514-Low-Flow-Neon-Assembly Answered 140 days ago | The doc |
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Q: I have power but no flow from Mira Sport 7.5kW. After reading 10.8kW forum, I was persuaded to replace the solenoid valve (and ordered one). However, I've since found the 9.5kW forum, in which you say the flow regulator is a non-servicable single assembly. They look identical from drawings. Please can you confirm whether I can change solenoid, or should I return it unopened?
Thanks Pete
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Submitted 210 days ago | by
Go Faster Stripes, Unknown
A: Hi Pete You don’t mention which vintage of Sport you have, you canreplace just the solenoid coil on the flow valve, however you have to removethe flow valve to do this, so the amount of work involved in replacing the flowvalve and the coil is the same. The flow valve is the part of the unit that goes wrong moreoften, so if you replace the solenoid coil you may find that a couple of monthslater you end up having to replace the complete valve, therefore you will havethe same amount of work to do again and you will be left with a coil. That’s the reason that in every case it is always much moresensible to replace the complete unit. Regards Answered 210 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: shower works for 10/15min then shuts off water pressure ok
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Submitted 222 days ago | by
judd, GR manchester
A: When it cuts off check there is a minimum oe 230volts at the connector block in the unit , if not the isolation switch has gone high resistence and needs replaced. If power ok then you need to replace the flow valve which can be ordered online by clickingn on this link. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton Answered 220 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: mira sport max overheat light on all the time, water coming out cold
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Submitted 266 days ago | by
kg, leicester
A: I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements until the water cools, this can take up to 15mins) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs After fitting a new TCO listen to the shower, after it has completed its first on/off cycle, if when it is switched off you hear it continuing to heat (Noise like a kettle starting to boil) this will mean that there is a switch or a relay that is stuck in the on position, this is keeping an element energised and this is probably what caused the original TCO to fail. If this is the case replace the faulty switch or relay and make sure that you switch the shower off at the isolating switch when the shower is not in use or this will cause the new TCO to fail. Answered 265 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi,
My Mira Sport 10.8 won't turn off. However hard I try to press the off button, it won't turn off. What I do in stead is to turn it to the lowest heat setting, and then pull the ceiling isolator chord. Then it stops after a few seconds.
Also, the other problem I have is lots of grey gritty stones keep blocking the shower head. Please could you advise what this is, and what parts I need to solve it. I am wondering if the heater element is breaking down? Many thanks in advance for your responce.
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Submitted 287 days ago | by
Johnny, Evesham
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
3 check that the inlet filter on the shower is clean and clear
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
If all the above are OK then you need a new flow valve. Sport Flow Valve Turn off water and power. It may be useful to take photos before and as you strip down the unit they can be invaluable when reassembling You will need a 'Torx' screwdriver with a T10 bit Cover the waste pipe unless you want to loose the screws Remove screws from 'U' clamp, switching assembly (at top of flow valve),the clip that holds flow valve and heating tank together and the screws at heating tank outlet pipe. Ease tank and valve forward and slightly right, pull the heating tank away from the valve some water will run out of the tank at this point. Allow the tank to hang on the wires strip off the wires from the existing flow valve and refit them to the new valve. Fit the new check valve (supplied) to the flow valve outlet (Large end in) Using the new 'O' rings (make sure they don’t fall off or become misplaced when fitting) fit the new flow valve make sure that it locates correctly with the heating tank clip and the locating pins at the top of the valve locate correctly with the switching assembly, as you push the whole assembly back into position ensure that the heating tank outlet pipe is in position and the inlet connector is in place. The above procedure is not technically difficult however three pairs of hands and the ability to levitate will help and for sure you will be glad when you see it all back in place! Once everything is back in place refit all the screws making sure that everything is located correctly and nothing is misaligned. Turn on water and examine for leaks switch on power then turn shower on at cold setting and run for 1min. Take care when doing this as shower is now live. Refit cover and test at different power settings. If every thing is OK have a shower you deserve it!!!!! PS If I have missed anything or you think of something that will make this job easier then please let me know and I’ll add it to the instructions. PPS The flow valve has recently changed it now needs the switching assembly replaced and a new neon at the same time, these instructions have not yes been up dated to take this in to account. Flow valve http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-507-Flow-Valve-Assembly Switching assembly http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-509-Switching-Assembly Neon http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-514-Low-Flow-Neon-Assembly Answered 286 days ago | The doc |
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Q: Hello there,
I have a Mira Sprint pre 2005. I have read the Q & A about the Thermal Cut Out, I have checked for continuity on the TCO, and it appears this is not the problem, could you please tell me if the next step is then to go to the Flow Valve? or are there other steps to take before you get to that stage?
thanks
Chris
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Submitted 291 days ago | by
Chris, Cornwall
A: It is more than likely the flow valve however it may be worth checking the elements. It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 289 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Dependent upon mains water pressure I have a squeaking screeching noise, is this the valve oscillating? Caused by scale build up?
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Submitted 318 days ago | by
Finbar, Lincoln, England
A: As you suggest from your question this noise can be caused by high water pressure A new valve can usually cure this however depending on the water pressure not always Answered 317 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: i've just replaced the heater tank on my mire spirt shower,it all work fine but the low flow light is illuminated is this normal
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Submitted 331 days ago | by
toftman, Charlton
A: It could be a faulty flow valve however first check the TCO
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)
See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs The only other thing that concerns me is are you sure that you have wired everything back up properly? Answered 330 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: The shower operates as normal. BUT
When operating on High temp setting as the temp increases the water suddenly stops flowing.
Then NO SHOWER hot or cold.
What do I need to fix this problem.
Many thanks, David Butcher
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Submitted 367 days ago | by
Dave, St. Andrews, Fife
A: Sounds like a faulty solenoid which is part of the flow valve assembly, so it needs a new flow valve assembly.
Answered 365 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My Mira Sport was leaking near the flow valve so I fitted new O rings. whilst doing so and whilst holding the unit, I turned it in my hand and two thick washers / spacers fell out.
I have closely studied the unit, and parts diagrams but cannot for the life of me see where they came from. Can anyone help?
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Submitted 374 days ago | by
Souwester, Plymouth
A: I also can’t think of anything that would fall out, perhaps you could send a Photo of the washers? Answered 372 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: The flow valve on our Mira Sport needs to be replaced, is this something you can do yourself or does it need a plumber. Does it come with fitting instructions? Thanks
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Submitted 384 days ago | by
hcw, edinburgh
A: The replacement is fairly straight forward.
Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantle most of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part out and the new part in. This sounds more difficult than it actually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc. come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos as you go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding. I guess to sum up if you have done a bit of DIY before then with a bit of care then this shouldn’t present a problem, if this is going to be your first DIY job then this is not a good place to stat Answered 383 days ago | The doc |
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Q: hi there can you help me the shower kept dripping water after it was turned off and my son beening heavyhanded turned the dial too far and now it will not turn off at all I think it is probably a plastic tube with 2 seals on that slots into a v shaped button that is broken.If possible could you tell the part number as we bought the shower 7 years ago.
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Submitted 405 days ago | by
driverbarr, liverpool
A: Hi I am not sure which part you mean also your question title is “triton power shower ipx4 ?” and the product is “Mira Flow Valve Assembly 1563.507” however in both cases the flow valve or temperature control valve are sealed units so you can’t really get parts for them. If it is not actually parts for the valves themselves you are looking for perhaps you could send a couple of photos this may help us work out which part you need. Answered 404 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: HI, My Elite 2 is a J93A with the Temp decal. It is running with low flow and a clean filter so I assume I need the Flow Valve Assembly.
I have a few questions before I order;
Given the amount of carbon on my front panel, Is it likely I'll be needing a motor soon? The unit is the main shower for two adults since 2000, Should I retire it and buy a new one? What do you think?
Why would I need the neon bulb assembly too as mine is working??
Why would I need the switching assembly if the shower powers up?
What is the difference between mine and the later models that mean I require these extra parts? Thanks
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Submitted 449 days ago | by
Pablo, Cork, Ireland
A: Yes It sounds like you need a flow valve regarding the motor you may just be able to replace the brushes. You need the new switching assembly and the neon because the flow valve has been modified Answered 448 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi
I have a Mira Elite ST that shuts down with a low flow light when the temperature control is moved towards the cold ? This is the opposite of what I would expect if it was blocked, so I suspect the flow control.
Do I sound right ?
Regards
John Dyson
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Submitted 504 days ago | by
John, Harrogate
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve to the shower is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
3 Then check that the inlet filter on the shower is clean. If all these are OK then I think you could have a faulty flow valve. Answered 503 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi
I have a Mira Sport shower post 2000. When I trun it on the ornage low flow light goes on. It can take up to 20 attempts for the shower to work as the water does not flow through. Would a flow valve assembly rectify this?
Thanks
Paula
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Submitted 504 days ago | by
PaulaG, Scotland
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are OK
Then you almost certainly need a new flow valve. Answered 503 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi there, I have a Mira Sprint (post 2000) installed. This has developed a fault lately, in that when turned off the water will not stop flowing. It used to take about 5 minutes to stop, however now takes over 20 minutes.
Is this likely to be the Flow Valve Assembly? or the SOLENOID COIL ASSEMBLY, as some websites tend to indicate a Solenoid problem with the Mira Showers?
Any ideas?
Thanks
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Submitted 624 days ago | by
StewC
Answered 624 days ago | Alastair
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Q: My Mira Elite st keeps flowing even when the shower is switched off. Is it the Flow Valve Assembly that I need to change to rectify this.
Thank you
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Submitted 677 days ago | by
Farmer Joe
Answered 675 days ago | Alastair
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