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Q: Hi I purchased and fitted a new thermal cut out from you after reading your advice when the shower ran only cold and auto reset was on. After fitting the shower was working fine apart from when first switched on or off there was a loud noise and boiling water trickled out the head along with some steam. This has been happening since it was fixed and then this morning it did the same and it's back to the original problem of permanent auto reset and only cold water...can you help?
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Submitted 1 day ago | by
nezi, scotland
A: After fitting a new TCO Whenfitting a new TCO listen to the shower, after it has completed its first on/offcycle, if when it is switched off you hear it continuing to heat (Noise like akettle starting to boil) this will mean that there is a switch or a relay thatis stuck in the on position, this is keeping an element energised and this isprobably what caused the original TCO to fail. If thisis the case replace the faulty switch or relay and make sure that you switch theshower off at the isolating switch when the shower is not in use because thismay cause the new TCO to fail. Answered 1 day ago | Barrie |
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Q: The water wasn't heating up fully, when I checked the power selector the 2 microswitches were still open. I have put a shim pf plastic card in, so with the power selector on hot both switches are closed. The shower now heats up, but when I switch off the auto reset comes on, I can't remember if this happened before.
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Submitted 65 days ago | by
derek, colwyn bay
A: It sounds very much like that the switches that you have shimmedare not switching off! If you have had to fit shims then that points to some otherproblem....Low pressure? Answered 65 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: I have a galaxy aqua 3000 approx 3 years old. Water is dripping from the base of the unit (not the hose or head) - any ideas what is likely to be causing the problem and is it easily fixable?
thanks
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Submitted 68 days ago | by
Anonymous, glasgow
A: Ithink the Pressure Relief Device (PRD) has blown. It’sa safety device on the bottom of the heating tank. Itis fairly easy to replace however there is usually something that causes it toblow, oftena kink in the hose or the showerhead is blocked, so check this before fittingthe new PRD.
Answered 68 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: hi when we turn on the shower cold water comes out of the pressure release device ? is the shower fixable ? please could you tell me what part is needed its the 10.5 one we have thanks
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Submitted 89 days ago | by
conrad, rochdale lancs
A: If Pressure Relief Device (PRD) has blown. It’s a safety device on the bottom of the heating tank. It is fairly easy to replace however there is usually something that causes it to blow, often a kink in the hose or the shower head is blocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD. Answered 89 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: Shower does not heat up. Previous to this for a few weeks the shower when turned off showed lights switched on the panel and would make a pssshhh noise. Auto reset light is also constantly on. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
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Submitted 122 days ago | by
Harry, London
A: If the showeris absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (Theblack thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore agood TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power atonly one.
(The function of the TCO is, if thewater over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) SeeVideo. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs If there is some heat it may be a faultyelement in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you cancheck them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and noheat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it'sprobably a micro switch.
If you don’t have a multimeter we sell themat £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the variousparts of your shower.
Apart from helping to fix your shower, theyare really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, forchecking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they aredud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 121 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: when i turn on the shower no lights stay on and the P S A does not move if i remove the casing and pull the P S A forward manualy the lights come on and the shower works do i need a new P S A
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Submitted 140 days ago | by
rocky, porthcawl wales
A: Bit difficult to say from your information however if it isnot moving could it be a lack of water pressure not pushing it forward? If the water pressure is OK then I think that the next mostsensible thing to do is to replace the pressure switch. Answered 140 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: I press the stop button and the water does not stop flowing.
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Submitted 155 days ago | by
eils, telford
A: If when you switch off the shower at the mainisolator and the shower keeps running then you have afaulty solenoid.
When you switch off the shower at themain isolator and the waterstops running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is stickingon. Answered 155 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: when i turn shower on no lights come on, but cold water comes out. if i turn on the water tap in the basin then off quickly next to the shower the power light comes on for 1 second but then goes out and does not reset . both lights stay out
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Submitted 155 days ago | by
rocky, wales
A: I think you have a pressureproblem.<o:O:P></o:O:P> <o:O:P> </o:O:P> The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower open / close the safety device that allows powerthrough to the elements<o:O:P></o:O:P> <o:O:P> </o:O:P> Answered 155 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Can't get the temp out of the blue setting before it trips out and the water goes cold. Been like this since we got it. Just had the engineer out to it and he says its the water pressure. Stop tap opened fully, never had a problem with other showers. What's going on .
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Submitted 202 days ago | by
Anonymous, Unknown
A: Makesure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (thiscan happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check theinside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could havecollapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valvenot allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.Shower then overheats and TCO cuts in , result cold water.
A rough check is to remove theshower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of thehose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it shouldbe coming out at full flow.
Ifthere is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flowvalve.
Answered 201 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: My shower will run cold water but when I turn the pressure switch on to hot it trips out the RCD but not the breaker for the shower itself, any help would be great.
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Submitted 213 days ago | by
Dan, Gwent
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.
If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.
Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 212 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: Hi,
We are having issues with the on/off switch on our galaxy aqua 3000. The shower doesn't always come on when first pressing and releasing the button and sometimes it can take 4, 5 or even more presses before it will stay on without holding it in. Any thoughts?
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Submitted 262 days ago | by
Sid, Manchester
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 261 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: Hi, I've just bought a house with a 3000 fitted. The head doesn't seem to fit correctly into the holder it wobbles about as if part of it has been replaced with a non-matching part. The holder and head look to match those in the pics on here but the Chrome hose looks different, would a new hose off here solve the problem?
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Submitted 302 days ago | by
Dave B, manchester
A: A new hose may well solve the problem,
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/galaxy/electric-showers/gala-sg06012-galaxy-hose-chrome-(1-25m)-sg06012 Answered 300 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: can I open shower head to clean spray area?
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Submitted 310 days ago | by
anne, paisley
A: The little rubber bits that stick out from the head are supposed to be rub clean, however you can unscrew the head, there should have been a key for removing the spray plate supplied with the shower, however you can usually remove the spray plate without the key. Answered 309 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: After having a shower for say 5-10 minutes, when I get out and turn it off after 30 seconds or so it makes a loud popping type noise but only once? Can you advise, Thanks. Also, I have a Galaxy 3000 but don't know what shower head to buy to replace my current one that is not funtioning properly.
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Submitted 351 days ago | by
Jimbo, Nottingham
A: Not being able to hear the noise at first hand it is hard to say what the cause may be.
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/shower-heads/galaxy
Any of these heads will do. Answered 350 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: Only had the shower a few years and it has started to constantly drip/leak from the shower head - please has anyone any idea what the problem could be? ?
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Submitted 372 days ago | by
Blusher, Cheshire
A: The flow valve washer is probably damaged,
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/galaxy/electric-showers/gala-sg08086-galaxy-flow-valve-top-assy---sg08086 Answered 372 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: hi my shower has no hot water plenty
power ,flow good ,light on ok.just no hot water to unit
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Submitted 396 days ago | by
john, newcastle
A: If the shower is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs If there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 393 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: a fuse blew in my main junction box, this stoppped the power to the shower. after replacing it the shower power light will not come on, onle the auto reset light is on.. how do i auto reset.
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Submitted 400 days ago | by
lord lucan, Leicester
A: I think you may have afaulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will haveno continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heatingtank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and afaulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of theTCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements until thewater cools, this can take up to 15mins) SeeVideo. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs After fitting a new TCO When fitting anew TCO listen to the shower, after it has completed its first on/off cycle, ifwhen it is switched off you hear it continuing to heat (Noise like a kettlestarting to boil) this will mean that there is a switch or a relay that is stuckin the on position, this is keeping an element energised and this is probablywhat caused the original TCO to fail. If this is thecase replace the faulty switch or relay and make sure that you switch the showeroff at the isolating switch when the shower is not in use because this may causethe new TCO to fail. Answered 400 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: Hi,
MY shower cutout. It tripped the main RCD but not it's own fuse.
I've checked the solenoid valve with a multimeter and got a reading of 4.1.
What else could it be?
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Submitted 412 days ago | by
jacko, hamilton
A: Itmay be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three inmost 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should havea reading of around 12>18 ohms. Ifyou have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements,no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.
Ifyou don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide onhow to use them for checking and testing the various parts of yourshower.
Apartfrom helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checkingyou have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting youknow much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 411 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: My shower cut off while in use, it tripped the main rcd fuse but not it's own fuse.
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Submitted 416 days ago | by
jacko, hamilton
A: Itmay be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter,you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in thefailed state.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apartfrom helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checkingyou have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and lettingyou know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 415 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: My item 12 (from the diagram) - the white plastic element clamp has cracked and now water is leaking through.
If I replace this part will this fix the problem? I'm worried there could be an underlying problem that caused this part to break. (pressure related perhaps?)
I have replaced my shower hose as I noticed it had been bent and collapsed near the head.
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Submitted 426 days ago | by
Steve, Bracknell
A: This should fix the problem as if there is a problem with the pressure part 6 on the diagram would blow. Answered 426 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: Whilst using the shower at a normal temperature, suddenly the auto reset light will come on and water will run cold. After approx 30secs auto reset light goes off and temperature returns to normal. This continues to happen for the duration of the shower. Have replaced the micro swithes but no difference. Any ideas as to what else could be wrong?
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Submitted 437 days ago | by
fizgog, Ayrshire
A: The things to check first are:
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally.
Check to see if there is a leak from the pressure switch assembly as this sometimes cracks.
Answered 435 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: the shower has the red re set button on at all times and there is no power to the water it just dribbles out,
can you offer any advice please
thanks
Danielle
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Submitted 440 days ago | by
Anonymous, catford
A: I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements until the water cools, this can take up to 15mins) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs After fitting a new TCO When fitting a new TCO listen to the shower, after it has completed its first on/off cycle, if when it is switched off you hear it continuing to heat (Noise like a kettle starting to boil) this will mean that there is a switch or a relay that is stuck in the on position, this is keeping an element energised and this is probably what caused the original TCO to fail. If this is the case replace the faulty switch or relay and make sure that you switch the shower off at the isolating switch when the shower is not in use because this may cause the new TCO to fail.
The other possibility is it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 440 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi,My Galaxy Aqua 3000 changes on it's own to burning hot and back down again after a bit on it's own ,also it's takes bit when switching on to go from reset to power about (30secs.)
I tried the flow test without the shower head and have a good flow at cold and a much reduced flow on very hot .Any advice please.
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Submitted 444 days ago | by
dutchy, Blackburn
A: The things to check first are:
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally.
Check to see if there is a leak from the pressure switch assembly as this sometimes cracks.
Answered 443 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: I have a Galaxy Aqua 3000, the water pressure is very low on the hot setting, but the pressure increases when i turn the temperature lower.
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Submitted 464 days ago | by
barkat, Unknown
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open/close the safety device that allows the power through to the elements.
Also.
Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve. Answered 464 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: Hi. The water temperature is always too hot. Even if we turn the temperature dial right down, the temperature remains the same as does the flow of water. Any ideas?
Thanks.
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Submitted 480 days ago | by
Anonymous, Bristol
A: Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve
Also check the pressure switch, no 9 on the diagram for leaks as the body of these sometimes cracks. Answered 478 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: I have got water pouring out from the point where the chrome hose joins the shower head. I have taken the head off, and the washer looks ok, but have tightened it back on, but it still leaks and runs down the hose?
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Submitted 485 days ago | by
Richard, Gloucester
A: This is probably caused by a crack in the shower head where you attach it to the hose or the inner lining of the hose being split. Answered 485 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: can i set the temp of the water to a constant 43 dec c
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Submitted 498 days ago | by
ck, enfield
Answered 497 days ago | The Doc
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Q: the temperature of the shower is not as controlable as it used to be.Also the water appears to pulsating through the shower unit.
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Submitted 516 days ago | by
mick, nottinghamshire
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety devicewill turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Answered 513 days ago | The Doc A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety devicewill turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Answered 513 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: shower has water still comming out of head when turned off
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Submitted 518 days ago | by
buster, wolverhampton
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Q: When pullin out oneof the microswitches, a little plastic cam has broken off and I cant refix it. Is there a replacement part for this?
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Submitted 526 days ago | by
toalfrgb, Sheffield
Answered 525 days ago | The doc
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Q: Hi,tried to run shower today,and after a min or so the pressurised water came gushing out of the bottom of the casing,rather than the shower head.Have taken off the front face and it seems the water is now flowing from the pressure relief device.(the shower is out of warranty)Is the shower salvageable?? thanks....John....
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Submitted 529 days ago | by
raggers, Preston England.
Answered 527 days ago | The doc
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Q: the power light on the shower has gonee off and only has cold water the shoer has gone on to auto reset? what do i need to do please
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Submitted 550 days ago | by
pam, southend on sea
A: I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements until the water cools, this can take up to 15mins) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs After fitting a new TCO When fitting a new TCO listen to the shower, after it has completed its first on/off cycle, if when it is switched off you hear it continuing to heat (Noise like a kettle starting to boil) this will mean that there is a switch or a relay that is stuck in the on position, this is keeping an element energised and this is probably what caused the original TCO to fail. If this is the case replace the faulty switch or relay and make sure that you switch the shower off at the isolating switch when the shower is not in use because this may cause the new TCO to fail. Answered 548 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My shower unit is 4yrs old next month and showers o.k. but it now drips water continuously. Removing the cover, shower head and hose reveals no leakage from anywhere other than the outlet pipe.
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Submitted 583 days ago | by
tomcat, Nottm.
Answered 583 days ago | Alastair
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Q: low hot water pressure causing water to run down hose
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Submitted 605 days ago | by
mr bridger, lanarks
A: Not sure I follow the question. If you have low water pressure The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’tkinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see)also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside itcould have collapsed internally
Or you may have a faulty element. It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Water running down the hose? Is the hose just needing tightened up or do you have aleak from inside the unit? .......possible PRD fault? Answered 604 days ago | The doc |
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Q: ive recently installed a galaxy 3000, it worked fine for a few days then suddenly stopped working, no lights no heat etc.
i removed the cover to check the solenoid and element etc but they were fine, while the cover was off i switched it on (keeping the water well away) and it works fine, if i put the cover back on whilst its working it continues to work but once its switched off it wont come back on unless the cover is removed. its mounted on a flat serface so the case isnt warped, any ideas?
thanks.
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Submitted 639 days ago | by
leo, lancashire
Answered 636 days ago | Alastair
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Q: My shower when running is going hot (very) and then cold then hot again is the thermastate which needs rereplacing or do I need a new shower I have had it 4 yrs ?
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Submitted 655 days ago | by
Pip, Liverpool
A: This is probably due to a reduction in flow through the unit. Check that the hose is not kinked or collapsed internally and the shower head is clear. Check that incoming water mains stopcock and any isolation valve in the feed to the shower are fully open. Check with your supplier if there has been any reduction in supply flow or pressure. Check that gauze filter in inlet to solenoid valve is clear. If all above are ok then it is likely to be the flow valve at fault , repair set can be ordered online by clicking on the link below http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/galaxy/GALA-SG08086-Galaxy-Flow-Valve-Top-Assy-(comes-with-large-knob)-SG08086 Answered 654 days ago | Alastair |
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Submitted 669 days ago | by
Jacko, Huddersfield
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 667 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: sorrygalaxyaqua3000showeris 9.5kw problemissame whenurnon woke fine for 10mintue thenwatercut off if iturnit on after few hours startfine then cut off againe
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Submitted 676 days ago | by
abdul, stretford manchester
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 674 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: i have a 2 year old galaxy 3000 and its started to run boiling hot then freezing cold temperature is not stable, any ideas ?
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Submitted 693 days ago | by
ritchieme, gravesend
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
Answered 692 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: have a leak that seems to be coming from the knob spindle in the flow valve
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Submitted 693 days ago | by
mace, wirral
A: If it is coming from the spindle then you probably need to replace the flow valve. Answered 693 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: just wanted to check if this is due to a faulty clamp or possibly a blockage which caused the clamp to split
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Submitted 700 days ago | by
sean, telford,shropshire
A: Could be because the can has over heated and warped slightly, however there is a safety device that is supposed to stop that kind of thing happening. If it had blocked then the pressure relief device should have blown before the clamp split. Having said all that can’t think I have seen many faulty clamps. Answered 700 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: I've recently replaced the heater element on my 9.5kW aqua 3000 and, when removing all the cables from the top of the heater assembly, I tied them together in their various groups so I could put them back in the right place. Unfortunately, despite my care, some of the cables got mixed up and I'm now unsure if I have all of the cables back in the right place and am afraid to switch it on in case it all blows up! Is there a wiring diagram, or a really close-up photograph showing the wires, so I can see if I've put them back correctly, please? With hindsight, maybe I should have photographed the assembly myself before removing any of the cables!
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Submitted 723 days ago | by
Peter, Wales
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Q: shower on off button will not switch power off or stop water floe .new on off switch fitted .
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Submitted 746 days ago | by
painterman, salisbury
Answered 745 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Hi.
We are unable to adjust the termperature in our Galaxy3000 anymore. the only way in which we can do this is to turn the water pressure switch up or down. The water looses or gains pressure when you turn the large dial but the temperature remains the same no matter what we do.
Can you help?
Many thanks.
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Submitted 752 days ago | by
Voyager, Southampton
Answered 749 days ago | Alastair
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Q: hi wonder if you can help me our shower used to work on setting 5 -6 just the right temp but now the lights not working and we have to put the dial on 8-9 to get any hot water any other setting befor 8-9 its coold and doesnt flow fast can you help please or if you have a mobile or phone number i can ring you to chat about this matter thanks
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Submitted 762 days ago | by
sean, Rotherham
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 762 days ago | The doc |
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Q: after the water gets hot the shower just stops the power light goes out and the pull cord light goes out after a minute reset and shower works then same thing happens all over again is the problem in the cord pull or in the shower itself thank you
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Submitted 868 days ago | by
dragon, ebbw vale gwent np235pl
A: From your description pretty certain the fault is the isolation switch which should be replaced. Answered 863 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: My shower Galaxy Aqua 3000 simply cut out whilst showering, have checked the main fuses and pull cord and all are wotking. No power getting to the shower. This happened during the really cold spell what do you think the cause is. Is there a cut out switch and if so how do you re-set ? Would really like to know how to rectify the problem would appreciate your expertise Thanks
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Submitted 868 days ago | by
gdd3055, Wales
Answered 863 days ago | Alastair
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Q: my 10.5kw aqua galaxy 3000 shower has developed a constant drip, what would be the cause and how do i cure it?
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Submitted 909 days ago | by
alig, Northern Ireland
Answered 908 days ago | The Doc
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Q: hi i seem to have a leak coming from the solenoid valve assy.is it easy to remove and install is there anything i need to look out for.is this a usual problem with these type of shower i had the shower for only 2yrs 3months please help thanks. billy
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Submitted 924 days ago | by
billy, newmains
A: Hi Billy The replacement is fairly straight forward.
Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantle most of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part out and the new part in. This sounds more difficult than it actually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc. come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos as you go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding. This is not a usual problem for this Galaxy, just have a very careful look to check that the leak isn’t coming from somewhere else Here is the link http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/galaxy/GALA-SG06020-Solenoid-Valve-Assy- Answered 922 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: every year we turn our shower heat setting to middle as the ambient temp. goes up and it works fine but will not allow us to go back to high it just runs cold. How can I fix this
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Submitted 975 days ago | by
graham
A: It suggests to me that something is not switching the elements on (perhaps a sticking micro switch) or you may have a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 974 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: i have Galaxy Aqua 3000 , I am not geeting hotwater is any part i need to replace. If it is then which one and how much is it.
Manu Ram
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Submitted 1003 days ago | by
maney
Answered 1002 days ago | Alastair
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