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Mira Sport Max Shower Spares

MIRA-PARENT-21

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Buzzing 1 Answer

Q: Hi,



Have just replaced the TCO for about the 4th time in a couple of years - seems to fail repeatedly and there is quite a bit of corrosion/verdigris on top of the heater tank. This time, I replaced the TCO and cleaned away the corrosion deposits underneath the TCO and the shower initially ran fine. However, after a couple of minutes running on high, a buzzing sound starts, which gets louder, and the water seems to cool down (but not go completely cold - just not as hot as when first turned on). Any ideas what this might be? I've checked the heater elements with a DMM - both about 11 ohms.



(BTW, this shower also exhibits the 'wailing noise' others on here have mentioned, when the heat control/flow valve is set to about the desired temperature, goes away when turned up or down etc. Not sure if this could be related; I've always assumed it wasn't really a problem and just one of those things.)



Thanks in advance.

Submitted 18 days ago | by Rob, Oxford
! Answer this question
The buzzing sound maybe that the TCO connections are loose or that the heating can is about to fail.
A:
There should be about 2-3 ohms difference between elements.Answered 18 days ago | Barrie
Mira Sport Max 10.8Kw 1 Answer

Q: Shower is recently starting to lose it;s temperature, used to have the shower on 'HIGH' and dial half way round (facing up) but now I'm having to keep it three quarters round to reach same temperature, but in doing this the water pressure is reduced to a pathetic spray. I have replaced the shower head for new one (genuine Mira). Any idea's what is wrong?

Submitted 75 days ago | by Matty, Newcastle upon Tyne
! Answer this question

A: It may be a faulty elementin the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can checkthem with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to theelements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzPt1hsfVq4

If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fixyour shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply toappliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left inbatteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 74 days ago | Barrie
Hot cold fault find 1 Answer

Q: hi my over heat light comes on shower goes freezing cold.then when overheat light goes off the water heats up to hot again.please can you advise on what fault and parts I need.many thanks regards.trevor Layton.

Submitted 137 days ago | by Anonymous, lowestoft.suffolk.
! Answer this question

A: The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly, the overheat safety devicewill turn
the power off until it cools, then it then it starts to heat again andso on.

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear,that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where itis difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OKon the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizervalve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower. Answered 137 days ago | The Doc
mira sport water flow 1 Answer

Q: please can you tell me what the minimum flow rate is for a mira sport to work

Submitted 146 days ago | by bill, york
! Answer this question

A: Flowand pressure are two different things this needs a minimum of 1bar pressure.

I don’t know for sure but I would think youwould need a minimum flow rate of about 10lts. Per min at 1 bar at the showerinlet.

Answered 145 days ago | The Doc
Mira jump 8:5k 1 Answer

Q: Keeps cutting out

Submitted 199 days ago | by Anonymous, Unknown
! Answer this question

A: It maybe your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you shouldhave a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and youneed a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stoppedworking!)

If thereis power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a goodchance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If youdon’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to usethem for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful forchecking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and lettingyou know much power you have left in batteries

(So youwill know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they arewell worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 199 days ago | Barrie
replacement shower head 1 Answer

Q: can you get hold of a replacement shower head for this model of the Mira sport max or an equivalent type?

thanks in advance

Submitted 213 days ago | by rhy, Barnsley
! Answer this question
A: http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/shower-heads/mira


Most of these on the above link should do.Answered 213 days ago | Barrie
Mira Sport Max 10.8Kw 1 Answer

Q: Low Flow light comes shows on High & Mediium, no flow light on low, water running on all settings but cold. Replaced solenoid, no change, replaced flow valvle assembly, now no water on all settings, put assembly back in, still no water on all settings, think it has something to do with arm activating the microswitch at bottom on PCB, what am I missing? Please can you help?

Submitted 221 days ago | by Matty McLeod, Newcastle upon Tyne
! Answer this question
Check the inlet filter is clear. And you have water and power (230-240v ) to the shower.
A:
If all is ok then you may have a faulty PCB.Answered 220 days ago | Barrie
overheat light 1 Answer

Q: hi , the over heat light comes on after a few seconds . the shower then goes from hot to cold . if left it then goes back to hot then cold . have replaced the hose but has had no effect . have cleaned shower head , have checked that the stop cock is fully open and that if you turn the temp to high it dribbles from hose then to cold it comes out at full flow .

Submitted 256 days ago | by steveancc, braintree
! Answer this question
A: Check the inlet filter , and if this is ok you need to check the inlet pressure is 1.5 bar dynamic or above.Answered 256 days ago | Barrie
Buzzing noise from solenoid 1 Answer

Q: I have a Mira Sport Max. It makes an intermittent buzzing sound from the flow valve solenoid. (I suspect)

This noise stops a second or 2 after pushing the stop button during the cool down period, the water finally stops flowing a couple of seconds later.

Do I need to replace the whole flow valve assembly or just the solenoid?

Submitted 256 days ago | by RobH65, Nr Wigan
! Answer this question
A: You can just replace the solenoid if you wish.Answered 256 days ago | Barrie
Mira sport on off button 1 Answer

Q: My shower is 13 years old, is this part still available?

Submitted 261 days ago | by Chuckarooney, Eh12 6pa
! Answer this question
A: http://www.showerdoc.com/mira-sport-max-shower-spares

The same button has been used for years.

http://www.showerdoc.com/mira-latching-switch-416-48


This should fit your shower.Answered 259 days ago | Barrie
Light on but no water. 1 Answer

Q: Mid Shower the water stopped coming out. The lights were still on so not a power issue. The Morning after water started gushing out from the bottom of the casing. When I removed the casing the water was coming from what looks to be from behind the PCB. Any ideas please??

Submitted 266 days ago | by Andy, Sheffield
! Answer this question

A: If the shower stopped mid shower then that would normallypoint tto a faulty solenoid which is part of the flow valve.

If there is water coming out from behind the PCB thatsuggests that the top of the flow valve is leaking.

So you could take the chance and change the flow valve ottry to investigate a little further where the leak is coming from.

http://www.showerdoc.com/mira-flow-valve-assembly-10-8-kw-1563-508

Answered 265 days ago | The Doc
water cuts of after aprox 10 seconds 1 Answer

Q: After aprox 10 seconds the water shuts off, the power indication light is still on and no warning lights come on, I have checked the solenoid and it shows 3.7k ohms prior to energisation, however as you sugested I put the meter accross the solenoid and when the shower is energised it drops to an ol reading for a few seconds and then back to 3.5k ohms does this mean I need a new solenoid or could there be another reason for this.

Submitted 269 days ago | by Joe, Inverclyde Scotland
! Answer this question
A: Yes it sounds like a new solenoid is needed.Answered 269 days ago | Barrie
overheat 1 Answer

Q: Overheat light is on, shower is working, but not heating water up. Just cold water running on all settings.

Submitted 279 days ago | by craig, chesterfield
! Answer this question

A: I think you mayhave a faulty Thermal Cut Out (TCO).

A faulty TCO will have nocontinuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at bothconnections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(Thefunction of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to theelements until the water cools, this can take up to15mins)

SeeVideo:

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

After fitting a new TCO

Whenfitting a new TCO listen to the shower, after it has completed its first on/offcycle, if when it is switched off you hear it continuing to heat (Noise like akettle starting to boil) this will mean that there is a switch or a relay thatis stuck in the on position, this is keeping an element energised and this isprobably what caused the original TCO to fail.

If thisis the case replace the faulty switch or relay and make sure that you switch theshower off at the isolating switch when the shower is not in use because thismay cause the new TCO to fail.

Answered 279 days ago | Barrie
water cuts of after aprox 10 seconds 1 Answer

Q: After aprox 10 seconds the water shuts off the power indication light is still on and no warning lights come on, I have checked the solenoid and it shows 3.5k ohms can you sugest any other reason for this

Submitted 288 days ago | by Joe, Inverclyde Scotland
! Answer this question

A: The other thing that could cause this is a faulty PCB

Are you checking the solenoid immediately after it fails?

Answered 287 days ago | The Doc
mira sport shower 1 Answer

Q: Is there a reset switch on this 9KW shower to protect the heating element should it overheat. For example if the water supply was cut off whilst having a shower then without such a device the the 9KW heater element would be destroyed. It would seem to me that something of this nature would normally be included in such an expensive shower.

Submitted 302 days ago | by Mal, East Yorkshire
! Answer this question
There is a "switch" on the heating can of your shower. It is called the TCO.
A: The function of the TCOis, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements until thewater cools, this can take up to 15mins

SeeVideo:

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

Answered 301 days ago | Barrie
overheat light 1 Answer

Q: overheatlight is illuminated,good cold water flow,but no hot water on either setting, why?

Submitted 308 days ago | by Edwin, wisbech
! Answer this question

A: The things to check firstare:

1 That the main valve cominginto your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower isfully open.

If these valvesare not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheatsafety device will turn the power offuntil it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head isclean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faultyflow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A rough check is to remove theshower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of thehose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it shouldbe coming out at full flow.

Ifthere is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flowvalve.

Carry out this checkafter you check the inlet valves.

Answered 308 days ago | Barrie
Mira sport max 1 Answer

Q: Hello .my shower stopped working I don't

Know why I did open the cover to look inside if any thing burnt but I found nothing from in side it looks every thing new power supply is ok but when switching it on water does not flow .

Submitted 320 days ago | by Anonymous, Unknown
! Answer this question

A: Could be a faulty flow valve or PCB  most likely the flow valve.

http://www.showerdoc.com/mira-flow-valve-assembly-10-8-kw-1563-508

Answered 319 days ago | The Doc
Shower stopped working, No flow showing on 2 buttons, but no water regardless. 1 Answer

Q: Shower stopped with the no flow light whilst in use this morning.



No flow light turns on when pressing the High and Medium buttons, but the low button turns green but still nothing happens.



Filter has been cleaned, but made no difference as it wasnt really that bad.



Ive put a multimeter across the solenoid as per the video, but it shows nothing. So does that mean the solenoid needs replacing?



Also, the shower has groaned when its set to a certain temperature since we bought the house, but nudging it up or down slightly stops the noise (if thats had anything to do with it) So is it best to replace the valve assembly to be safe?



Or is it something different entirely?



Cheers,

Lee.

Submitted 357 days ago | by Lee, Bristol
! Answer this question

A: It is most likely your solenoid valve, you cancheck it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check thevalve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and itis not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The videois intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sellthem  with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they arereally useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checkingfuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) andlots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

If the solenoid is faulty then with this shower itmakes more sense to replace the complete valve

Answered 356 days ago | The Doc
mira sport max 1 Answer

Q: overheat light on water cold

Submitted 358 days ago | by tewy, rugby
! Answer this question
You are not getting enough water through the shower, so check the inlet filter, inlet valve is fully on, head and hose are clear. If so, then,
A:

forgetting about the temperature, turn the showerfrom fully hot to fully cold. At fully hot you should have not much more than adribble coming from the hose, and on fully cold you should have a good strongflow. If you do not have this difference then you may have a faultyflow valve.

Answered 357 days ago | Barrie
mira sports max 10.8kw 1 Answer

Q: Hi, my shower only works on low and med, (cold or luke warm water) and when i press high the water flow stops all together????

Submitted 367 days ago | by TONY, Unknown
! Answer this question
A: You have a faulty PCB.Answered 367 days ago | Barrie
Water wont turn on, low flow showing 1 Answer

Q: Shower cut out yesterday, low flow showing. Water will not turn on now, no flow showing. Reading 11 Ohms across solenoid. Any ideas? Thanks again for your help.

Submitted 398 days ago | by Jez, Unknown
! Answer this question

A:

If thereis power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a goodchance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

Answered 398 days ago | Barrie
Water cut out, low flow showing. 1 Answer

Q: Water cut out whilst showering. Low flow showing. I cleaned inlet filter, pressure fine. Worked for 8 mins then cut out. Now buttons will turn green but no water. Low flow light only shows when thermostat turned to red, goes out when turned to blue, but still no water. Flow valve or solenoid?

Submitted 399 days ago | by Jez, Cornwall
! Answer this question

A: It maybe your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you shouldhave a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and youneed a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stoppedworking!)

If thereis power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a goodchance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If youdon’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to usethem for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful forchecking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and lettingyou know much power you have left in batteries

(So youwill know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they arewell worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 399 days ago | Barrie
overheat light 1 Answer

Q: I replaced the TCO recently as it was faulty. The overheat light is now on both the high and medium settings but not the low. The shower is also taking a very long time to switch off, probably double the time it used to take. Is this likely to be the TCO again or is there something else I should check?

Submitted 402 days ago | by Kirsty, Dymock
! Answer this question
You are not getting enough water through the shower, so check the inlet filter, inlet valve is fully on,  head and hose are clear. If so, then,
A:

forgetting about the temperature, turn the showerfrom fully hot to fully cold. At fully hot you should have not much more than adribble coming from the hose, and on fully cold you should have a good strongflow. If you do not have this difference then you may have a faultyflow valve.

Answered 402 days ago | Barrie
Low flow and leak 1 Answer

Q: I have a Mira Sport Max 10.8kW shower and for the last 3-4 weeks it has started to be effected by water use in the house, ie.e getting hot when the washing machine or dish washer is on (Never used to do this). We have also noticed a leak coming from inside the case along the outside of the hose. Over the last week it has started to be hotter than usual constantly and turning the knob makes no difference. 4-5 days ago it gave one good shower, then on the second it started to run cold and the low flow light came on. This would correct itself if left for the day. Now this happens after 2 seconds and will not correct itself regardless of how long we leave it.

We haven't had any cause to close either the internal stop valve or the isolation valve to the shower.

Submitted 402 days ago | by Straw, Preston, Lancashire
! Answer this question
You would appear to need a new flow valve.
A:

Forgetting about the temperature, turn the showerfrom fully hot to fully cold. At fully hot you should have not much more than adribble coming from the hose, and on fully cold you should have a good strongflow. If you do not have this difference then you may have a faultyflow/stabilizer valve.

Answered 402 days ago | Barrie
Mira Sport 8.5 electric shower white/L. Gold 1 Answer

Q: Could you supply a new shower head and hose for the above shower

Submitted 403 days ago | by Anonymous, Unknown
! Answer this question
shower head clamp 1 Answer

Q: Hi, the shower head fits onto a clamp that enables adjustment for height. This clamp is white with a grey adjustment handle. It fits onto a chrome bar mounted to the shower wall. I need the white and grey clamp. Do you supply?



image attached



Thanks





Paul

Submitted 408 days ago | by Anonymous, Leicester
! Answer this question

A: I think that this is the part you need.

http://www.showerdoc.com/mira-response-clamp-bracket-assembly-white-411-23-for-22mm-rail

Answered 406 days ago | The Doc
Leak 1 Answer

Q: Mira Sport 10.8 leaking from within casing water running down back of casing from about a third of the way up apparently from inlet into tank

Submitted 430 days ago | by cuthy, St. Agnes, Cornwall
! Answer this question
A: http://www.showerdoc.com/mira-sport-max-shower-spares

It is rare for leaks to occur here unless it is further up on the side of the flow valve.

http://www.showerdoc.com/mira-flow-valve-assembly-10-8-kw-1563-508

Unless you are meaning the inlet into the flow valve, which could be a damaged inlet bracket,

http://www.showerdoc.com/mira-inlet-clamp-416-38
Answered 430 days ago | Barrie
Low flow light coming on 1 Answer

Q: Following your last advice I have checked all terminal connections and cleaned the inlet filter. However when I turn the shower on the low flow light still comes on after a few seconds, but if I then give the shower a firm tap it then works fine until turned off, following which I have to repeat the turn it on and then give it a tap process to make it work again

Submitted 430 days ago | by John, Unknown
! Answer this question
A: Sounds like a loose connection or faulty PCB.Answered 430 days ago | Barrie
Low flow light coming on 1 Answer

Q: Hi,

My Mira sport max tripped the rcd recently after which the water coming out was only slightly warm. Did some checks with you and it appeared to be the heater tank so I replaced it but now when I turn it on it almost immediately the low flow light comes on and the water is cold. I ve checked to ensure the supply valve is fully open and also that there is a good difference in flow rate between it being on cold them max.

I ve checked the thermal cut out and there is continuity across the terminals of it.

I m now stuck for ideas - any suggestions

Submitted 431 days ago | by John, Unknown
! Answer this question
A: First I would check the connections from the can to the PCB are correct, and if so it maybe the inlet filter is blocked.Answered 431 days ago | Barrie
Overheat light on - shower cold 1 Answer

Q: All valves fully open, shower head clean and clear, hose not kinked, filter cleaned. Removed the shower head and when water turned on and temperature control turned to fully hot, the water coming out of the hose slows considerably but more than a dribble, when turn to fully cold it comes out at full flow. Have replaced the flow valve but the problem still exists.

Submitted 452 days ago | by Anonymous, Unknown
! Answer this question
A: See previous answer.Answered 451 days ago | Barrie
overheat light on - shower cold 1 Answer

Q: I have replaced the flow valve and the problem still exists.

Submitted 452 days ago | by Malcolm, Londom UB4
! Answer this question

A: If the showeris absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (Theblack thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore agood TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power atonly one.
(The function of the TCO is, if thewater over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

SeeVideo.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

If there is some heat it may be a faultyelement in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you cancheck them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and noheat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it'sprobably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell themat £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the variousparts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, theyare really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, forchecking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they aredud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 451 days ago | Barrie
Overheat light coming on 1 Answer

Q: I have a Mira Sport Max shower, 5-ish years old, as soon as I press High medium or low buttons the overheat light comes on immediately and no hot water, plenty of water pressure with or without the shower head and is the same whether on high medium or low and whatever the temperature setting. There was no build up to this, it just happened. Any ideas?

Submitted 456 days ago | by Anonymous, Pontefract, West Yorkshire
! Answer this question

A: The things to check firstare:

1 That the main valve cominginto your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower isfully open.

If these valvesare not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheatsafety device will turn the power offuntil it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head isclean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faultyflow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A rough check is to remove theshower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of thehose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it shouldbe coming out at full flow.

Ifthere is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flowvalve.

Answered 455 days ago | Barrie
flow light on and no heat 1 Answer

Q: when i switch on the shower the low flow light switches on and off and the shower makes a banging soundand there is only cold water. If you bang the outside of the shower cover the light goes off and then the hat water comes on.What could be the fault?

Submitted 462 days ago | by brian, Tyne and Wear
! Answer this question
Check that you do not have a loose connection in the shower.
A:
Makesure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (thiscan happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check theinside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could havecollapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valvenot allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A rough check is to remove theshower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of thehose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it shouldbe coming out at full flow.

Ifthere is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flowvalve. Answered 462 days ago | Barrie
Temperature 1 Answer

Q: I have a Mira sport max shower, and the waters is only Luke warm! It's about 10 months old!

Submitted 470 days ago | by Anonymous, Unknown
! Answer this question

A: It may be a faulty elementin the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can checkthem with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to theelements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fixyour shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply toappliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left inbatteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 469 days ago | Barrie
Mira Sport intermittent temperature 1 Answer

Q: Our shower comes on cold for about a half a minute at first, then warms up. We sometimes have a loud whining noise when it's working, and then the temperature is only warm regardless of the setting. However, if the whining noise goes off, the temperature is as it should be. The noise happens randomly without the controls being touched. We have cleaned the internal filter and we have a new hose attachment. Any ideas please?

Submitted 490 days ago | by Judith, Wiltshire
! Answer this question

A: Forgetting about the temperature turn the showerfrom fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than adribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strongflow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faultyflow/stabilizer valve.

Answered 490 days ago | Barrie
Lower flow when on hotter 1 Answer

Q: Water flow is normal when on cold. As the tempterature goes up on the control the water does get hotter but the flow reduces. Any ideas?

Submitted 506 days ago | by rpoole18, Exeter
! Answer this question

A: The temperature and flow rate are always (Nearlyalways!! and always in your type of shower) connected.

When you turn your shower on you have a10kw element heating the water and this does not vary the way youalter the temperature is by varying the amount of water that passes over theelement, pass the water over the element slowly (a little water) and it getsvery hot, pass it over quickly (a high flow rate) and it doesn’t have time topick up much heat.

This explains why in the winter at thesame setting as the summer the shower is not so hot because the temperature ofthe incoming water has changed. 
  
If the floww on hot is too low then check that the inlet filter is clear that the inlet valve is  fully open and that the head and hose are clear.

Answered 504 days ago | Barrie
No lights showing 1 Answer

Q: Shower was working yesterday. fuse box and pull cord switch checked and electrical supply OK. But when pull cord switch is on there are no lights showing on the wall unit.



Any ideas?

Submitted 506 days ago | by Quirky, Poole, Dorset
! Answer this question
A: If there is power into the shower then I suspect that the PCB is faulty.Answered 504 days ago | Barrie
emergency switch 1 Answer

Q: do i need to have a emergence switch to turn this unit off

Submitted 522 days ago | by stan, barmill ayrshire
! Answer this question

A: No not an emergency switch but it does need an isolating switch, for example a pullcord switch, or a wall switch located outside the bathroom.

Answered 522 days ago | The Doc
Changing Temperature 1 Answer

Q: Hello - i wote last week about the temperature changing and i have checked the valves and hose as you suggested but this seems to have made it worse. Now the shower has be be on high as low and medium settings are cold and now the green lights go out and the water goes freezing as well as sometimes going boiling hot (but the green lights stay on when it goes hot). I would be grateful for any suggestions. Many thanks!

Submitted 524 days ago | by islandfarmer, Cornwall
! Answer this question
A: With the lights going on and off I would suspect that the PCB is to blame.Answered 524 days ago | Barrie
overheat light coming on 1 Answer

Q: shower is working fine on high setting with the thermostat a couple of dots from the red.overheat light comes on(mid shower) and water goes cold,wait until the overheat light goes out and water reverts back to its hot temperature.this happens anything from once to 6 times per shower but not every time and at different times of the day.tia

Submitted 529 days ago | by karlio,
! Answer this question

A: The things to check firstare:

1 That the main valve cominginto your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower isfully open.

If these valvesare not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheatsafety device will turn the power offuntil it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head isclean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faultyflow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A rough check is to remove theshower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of thehose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it shouldbe coming out at full flow.

Ifthere is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flowvalve.

Carry out this checkafter you check the inlet valves.

Answered 529 days ago | Barrie
hose 1 Answer

Q: i need a new hose please what bore size do i need for the mira sport max?

Submitted 537 days ago | by ash, newbury
! Answer this question
A: A universal hose with a 11mm bore will do the job.Answered 537 days ago | Barrie
Temperature Changing 1 Answer

Q: Hi - My shower is 18months old and has started to change temperature (boiling hot & freezing cold) when i dont move the temperature dial and then it goes back to the normal temperature. Sometimes i have to move the dial as what was a good temperature one day isnt the next?!? It seems to have a mind of its own! Any help would be great. Thanks!

Submitted 539 days ago | by Islandfarmer, Cornwall
! Answer this question

A: The things to check first are:

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower.

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A rough check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

Answered 539 days ago | Barrie
Mira Sport Cutting Out 1 Answer

Q: My shower works fine for the first user shower but when a second user comes along, maybe 10 or fifteen minutes later, it cuts out. After pressing the on/off switch again it just switches off again and continues doing so. The only way to get a shower is to hold in the on/off button.

Submitted 545 days ago | by nethanwull, Lanarkshire
! Answer this question

A: I am fairly certain that you have a faulty flow valve assembly

http://www.showerdoc.com/mira-flow-valve-assembly-10-8-kw-1563-508

There is an outside chance that you may have a faulty relay board but the flow valve is the more likely suspect.

Answered 545 days ago | The Doc
Mira sport shower case melted 1 Answer

Q: Hi, just use the shower, everything seemed fine, turned temp up a little for more heat and got it, then started to smell something and upon turning the unit off there is a 10x20mm melted hole towards the top left of the back case.



The hole is right next to the live connections on the thermal switch and the wires look like they have gotten a little hot. The connections look pretty tight although I have not tested yet.



What would you recommend we look out for, and what may have cause the melt?



Thanks

Submitted 559 days ago | by Darren, East Sussex
! Answer this question
"The connections look pretty tight although I have not tested yet."
A:
This is where to start, as a loose wire on the TCO or can is the probable cause.Answered 559 days ago | Barrie
low flow light 1 Answer

Q: no water supply, low flow light comes on, what is the cause

Submitted 564 days ago | by Robert, Dunfermline
! Answer this question

A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 564 days ago | Barrie
Tripping RCD 1 Answer

Q: We have had the MIra Sport Max 10.8kw for nearly 4 years, when running the shower on high for a few seconds it is tripping the RCD out but when we run it on cold its ok. What parts will we have to replace? If any!

Submitted 574 days ago | by Barry, Eastbourne
! Answer this question

A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 574 days ago | Barrie
Overheat light on, no hot water 1 Answer

Q: On my Mira sport max I had a couple of days of what I can only describe as a banging sound followed by the illumination of the overheat light. I now have cold water flow but no heating. The overheat light has now gone off until you turn the shower on and then it illuminates.



Any suggestions?



John

Submitted 580 days ago | by John, Retford
! Answer this question

A: If the shower is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

If there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Since the Max has a PCB if the above is ok then it may be this that is faulty, as it shows the same symptoms sometimes.

Answered 580 days ago | Barrie
Overheat 1 Answer

Q: As per previous suggestions i purchased a Thermal switch which i successfully replaced and this cured the overheating problems with my Mira Sport Max. The shower has once again started displaying the overheat light and only supplying cold water, leading me to believe that the Thermal switch has failed again. Is there another component which could be responsible for the making the thermal switch fail.



The water flow rate is normal

Submitted 580 days ago | by Sam, Walsall
! Answer this question

A: After fitting a new TCO

When fitting a new TCO listen to the shower, after it has completed its first on/off cycle, if when it is switched off you hear it continuing to heat (Noise like a kettle starting to boil) this will mean that there is a switch or a relay that is stuck in the on position, this is keeping an element energised and this is probably what caused the original TCO to fail.

If this is the case replace the faulty switch or relay and make sure that you switch the shower off at the isolating switch when the shower is not in use because this may cause the new TCO to fail.

Answered 580 days ago | Barrie
Mira Sport - Hot first Shower, cold second shower 1 Answer

Q: Hi there,



I recently changed the flow assembly as the solenoid wasn't working. The shower worked fine since then, however it's now been a month and we've started getting a decent shower when it's turned on a first time. If another person then wants a shower 5 mins later however, it runs cold. If you leave it for an hour or so, it then works fine again.



What could this be?



Submitted 588 days ago | by Oli3587, Nottingham
! Answer this question

A: I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out (TCO).

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements until the water cools, this can take up to 15mins)

See Video:

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

After fitting a new TCO

When fitting a new TCO listen to the shower, after it has completed its first on/off cycle, if when it is switched off you hear it continuing to heat (Noise like a kettle starting to boil) this will mean that there is a switch or a relay that is stuck in the on position, this is keeping an element energised and this is probably what caused the original TCO to fail.

If this is the case replace the faulty switch or relay and make sure that you switch the shower off at the isolating switch when the shower is not in use because this may cause the new TCO to fail.

Answered 588 days ago | Barrie
water leak 1 Answer

Q: I have a water leak, water constantly runs out of the shower head when switched off, what could this be please ?

Submitted 602 days ago | by Mr D, Staffordshire
! Answer this question

A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 601 days ago | Barrie
Mira Sport 9.0 kW stops with low-flow light on 1 Answer

Q: My Mira Sport 9.0 kW shower stops after a few minutes with the low-flow light on. Turning off and back on does not help, but some time later the shower will start to run, again for a brief time. Can you identify the fault from this description, or do you need more information? (It is not a kinked pipe to the shower head). Thanks

Submitted 608 days ago | by Bill, Worcestershire
! Answer this question

A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 608 days ago | Barrie
Mira sport 9.0kw power light on but not workling 1 Answer

Q: Hi we had this problem and was told we needed a new pcb. Bought another identical shower and replaced it today same problem. Light on at shower, press button and the light goes off. Can it be something else causing the problem? Thanks

Submitted 617 days ago | by Helen, leicester
! Answer this question
A: Check that the wall/ ceiling switch does not have any loose wires and that you are getting 230-240v at the shower.Answered 616 days ago | Barrie
Cutting out 1 Answer

Q: In the last few days my Mira vie shower keeps cutting out, the water just stops half way through a shower. The electric is ok, what could it e and is it easy enough to fix.

Submitted 621 days ago | by Anonymous, Aberdeen
! Answer this question

A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 621 days ago | Barrie
Mira sport 9.0 low flow 1 Answer

Q: I have a mira sport 9.0. The low flow light is on and no water is coming out of the shower...Is this likely to be the flow valve or something else?

Submitted 621 days ago | by kidleet, leeds
! Answer this question

A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 621 days ago | Barrie
Overheat light on prior to use 1 Answer

Q: I have recently changed the thermal switch - I think correctly - however the overheat light is on and the RCD trips when I attempt to use the shower (which runs cold for about 10-15 seconds).



I am no expert hence would be most grateful for any suggestions, thanks!

Submitted 627 days ago | by Hu, Luton
! Answer this question

A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 627 days ago | Barrie
Mira Sport overheating? 1 Answer

Q: My Mira has worked fine for 2 years. Now, when set to “High” and you turn the temperature up, the overheat light comes on immediately and no heating takes place. However, if you set to “high” and let it run for a while with a full cold flow, then slowly turn it up to the desired working temperature, it works fine? The inlet filter is clear and there is good pressure from the incoming supply. Help please!

Submitted 666 days ago | by Mike, Swindon
! Answer this question

A: Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve.


If this is ok then you could have a faulty PCB.

Answered 665 days ago | Barrie
Mira Sport Max 1 Answer

Q: I have the above electric shower and the temperture control has stopped working.

When it is on high the water is coming out scolding hot even when I turn the control knob fully anti clockwise round to the blue section.



Can you please help and advise which part I need to Purchase?



Thank you for your help.

Submitted 677 days ago | by Paul, Sandhurst. Berkshire
! Answer this question

A: Forgetting about the temperature turn the showerfrom fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than adribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strongflow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faultyflow/stabilizer valve.

Answered 677 days ago | The Doc
Shower - stopped working mid flow and now no lights on pull cord or unit 1 Answer

Q: Hi



I was having a shower when it turned itself off mid flow, without warning and now the pull cord does not light up nor do any of the lights on the actual shower unit.



Any ideas on what the fault could be? Or the fix?

Submitted 678 days ago | by OllieHart, Gloucestershire
! Answer this question
A: Check your fuse box for blown fuses or tripped mcb's.Answered 678 days ago | Barrie
mira sport max 10.8 - water flow 1 Answer

Q: Turning the temp control on the front makes no difference to the flow rate of the water. Water coming out a medium pace all the time. On low it's too fast to heat up, on Med it gets slightly too hot, on hight it boils and overheats. Turning the control to lower temp range results in 'low flow' warning (although water speed isn't changed), turning the control tol higher temp range = overheat on high.



Cheers

Submitted 693 days ago | by Cliff, derbyshire
! Answer this question

A: The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety devicewill turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

 

Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
If these are all OK then you probably need a new Flowvalve.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/electric-showers/mira-1563-508-mira-flow-valve-assembly-10-8-kw-1563-508

Answered 692 days ago | The Doc
Mira sport max 10.8 low flow 1 Answer

Q: Hi



The shower just cut out the other day whilst in use. The low flow light is on and no water is coming out. I have cleaned the black filter and started it up again but still no joy. Any advice would be great!

Submitted 697 days ago | by D, Barnsley
! Answer this question

A:

Itmay be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter,you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in thefailed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apartfrom helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checkingyou have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and lettingyou know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 696 days ago | Barrie
Mira Sport Max 10.8K Cold Water 1 Answer

Q: Hi,



I have a Mira Sport Max 10.8K which is around 2-3 years old.



Fault - Water temperature is cold unless the temperature dial is at Max, then the water is luke warm.



Checks I've made:

1. TCO meters out fine.

2. Elements 'A' & 'B' (see attached image) read around 10ohms.

3. When the shower is operating I get 240v on connections '1', '2' & '4' (see attached image) - no power on '3'.

4. On connector '4' it looks as if there is some heat damage, this can be seen if you zoom in on the image.



I'm guessing that the PCB is faulty, what do you think?



Regards,

George.

Submitted 702 days ago | by Anonymous, Glasgow
! Answer this question

A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 699 days ago | Barrie
mira sport max 1 Answer

Q: starts off ok running hot then goes cold after a few seconds runs hot again any ideas ?

Submitted 715 days ago | by mitch54, nottingham
! Answer this question

A: Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve.

Answered 713 days ago | Barrie
Mira Sport Max Ref 38366 1 Answer

Q: Sorry, Just thought i would add a bit more detail to my recent question, ref 38366.

Have never had any issues with the shower. The corrosion that the electrician pointed out to me was what looked like Green limescale at the top of item 4 (the heater tank). There were no other signs of damage, and everything else looked in really good condition.

Submitted 720 days ago | by John Boy, Bristol
! Answer this question
A: See other ticket.Answered 719 days ago | Barrie
Mira Sport Max - Not Working 1 Answer

Q: Hi,

In the shower the other day and then it all went off, water, all the lights everything. The RCD hadnt tripped. Now when I turn the isolating switch on and turn the RCD off to on, the lights on the shower flash on for about a second and then nothing.

Been told by an electrician that the shower has burnt itself out due to corrosion, and need a new one, but is only 3 years old.

Submitted 720 days ago | by John boy, Bristol
! Answer this question
A: First thing to check is the isolating switch for loose wires etc. and that you are getting power to the shower. If this is ok then you may need a new PCB.Answered 719 days ago | Barrie
water keeps shutting off 1 Answer

Q: When I turn my shower on high it shuts down after a short time,this happens on the medium setting as well.But if I turn either of these up very high the shower still opperates.I have cleaned the head,but this does not cure it.I have lost my manual,and do not know how to remove the cover to see if the filter needs cleaning. Please Please help. Thank you

V Batt

Submitted 721 days ago | by vic, BRISTOL BS16 9DY
! Answer this question
There are two screws at the top and one at the bottom of the cover.

A:

Itmay be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three inmost 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should havea reading of around 12>18 ohms.

Ifyou have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements,no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

Ifyou don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide onhow to use them for checking and testing the various parts of yourshower.

Apartfrom helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checkingyou have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting youknow much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Or

Itmay be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter,you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in thefailed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apartfrom helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checkingyou have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and lettingyou know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

If these prove to be ok then I would suspect the PCB.

Answered 721 days ago | Barrie
mira sports max 12.5 1 Answer

Q: had shower about 4 years then all lights went out and not working pull switch in bathroom still lighting

and didnt blow fuse in mains

Submitted 732 days ago | by ds, Unknown
! Answer this question
A: Sounds like a PCB fault. But check you are getting power into the shower as it still may be a faulty pull switch.Answered 731 days ago | Barrie
Mira Sport Max - Intermittent Overheating 1 Answer

Q: Hi again,

I am still having overheating issues, where the overheat light comes on intermittently, staying on for slightly longer now (10-15 secs) before going off and warming up again for say 30 seconds.

I have checked and cleaned the shower head, hose and inlet filter, none of which were particularly blocked.

I have also checked continuity across the thermal switch and all is fine there also.

Water supplies to house and shower are as normal, which is confirmed when running the shower on cold, the unit has a powerful spray. However, turn it to full hot and the pressure drops right off, with the sound of boiling water coming from the heating unit.

I'm guessing that the heater unit is on it's way out, but just wanted to check to see if there's a cheaper solution......any thoughts?

Many thanks in advance.

Submitted 745 days ago | by TuPz, Stamford, UK
! Answer this question

A: The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allowspower through to the elements

 

 

Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

 

 

If all the above are OK then Iwould fit a new  flow valve

Answered 741 days ago | The Doc
Mira sport 9Kw 1 Answer

Q: My mira sport 9Kw switches on fine but after 5 mins the low flow light comes on and the shower cuts out. maybe after 10min or more it will work again but does the same thing.

I've checked the filter from mains, hoses, handle etc, also checked the solenoid like you advised others. I get no readings from the solenoid but I also have 4 others that work fine and I tested them too and they dont get any readings either. I know I'm checking it right, its only two contacts on the thing... confused.

Many thanks.

Submitted 747 days ago | by Steve, Edinburgh
! Answer this question

A: I am not exactly sure about your readings either, however Iam pretty certain that a new flow valve will solve the problem.

Answered 746 days ago | The Doc
No water then cold water 2 Answers

Q: We currently have no water flow at all, but discovered that a light thump with the palm of the hand to the top of the cover casing and it jolts into action. However, the flow is stone cold and remains so on any setting. Any ideas?

Submitted 761 days ago | by tobester, Pembrokeshire
! Answer this question

A: I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

Answered 761 days ago | The Doc
A: Answered 761 days ago | The Doc
Sport Max intermittent low temp 1 Answer

Q: Sport max 5 ish yrs old - intermittent prob with low temp. switching off then on again usually cures it. Shower has its own circuit and when switching on lights usually dip in the house for a fraction of a second - have noticed that when shower is not running up to temp the dip doesn't happen, suggesting less load - then suddenly the dip and shower then comes up to temp.

Submitted 769 days ago | by Jules, Southport
! Answer this question

A: The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allowspower through to the elements

 

Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

If all the above are Ok then you probably have flow valve which is notallowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

 


http://www.showerdoc.com/MIRA-1563-508-Mira-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-Kw-1563-508

Answered 769 days ago | The Doc
cold water from shower 1 Answer

Q: this my second shower in 2 years to stop working , both showed over heat light and only cold water runs from them, does it make a difference that i have 2 showers running off one fuse , one trips when the other is on at the same time

Submitted 773 days ago | by mike, Unknown
! Answer this question
A: Each shower must come off its own fuse and wiring etc.Answered 773 days ago | Barrie
removal of circuit board & component behind 1 Answer

Q: how do you remove the circuit board and the component behind it? do you need the torx screwdriver to do this?

Submitted 776 days ago | by roger, south wales
! Answer this question

A: It is held in by a Torx screw (T10) at the bottom and thenthe whole block should then just unclip

Answered 776 days ago | The Doc
hot blows fuse, medium runs cold in winter 1 Answer

Q: I just want a warm/hot shower in winter...what should I do?

Submitted 781 days ago | by Kazza, Surrey
! Answer this question

A: The temperature and flow rate are always (Nearly always!! and always in your type of shower) connected.

When you turn your shower on you have a 10.8kw element heating the water and this does not vary  the way you alter the temperature is by varying the amount of water that passes over the element, pass the water over the element slowly (a little water) and it gets very hot, pass it over quickly (a high flow rate) and it doesn’t have time to pick up much heat.

This explains why in the winter at the same setting as the summer the shower is not so hot because the temperature of the incoming water has changed.  

Also, the fuse on the shower circuit should be 45 amp.

If there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 780 days ago | Barrie
Filter 1 Answer

Q: Does the filter get clogged and need clearing? I get a lot of debris coming through the shower head which I remove. Flow has reduced over 4 years from new. Heat is fine.

Submitted 785 days ago | by Proteus, Swanage
! Answer this question
The filter does get clogged, but shower is of the same supply as your drinking water so you should not get debris coming through too much I would hope. Also this filter should prevent any debris reaching the shower head.
A:

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open. Answered 784 days ago | Barrie
Cold Water 1 Answer

Q: Hi, we have the sport max which is just over a year old and a couple of days ago discovered that there is no hot water. Nothing else happened just turned it on as usual and no hot water, any ideas? My husband seems to think it might be the PCB but as it's only just over a year old, could that be the answer? I hope not as it's expensive!



Thanks

Karen





Thanks

Karen

Submitted 787 days ago | by Tinso, Newport
! Answer this question

A: I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

Answered 784 days ago | Barrie
Mira Sport Max - low flow and intermittent overheat 1 Answer

Q: Hi,



Over the last couple of months, I've noticed the shower has had slightly lower flow going through it. If there are other flow demands (e.g. Toilet flushing) then low flow light now comes on until other demands finish.



During showering, the overheat light comes on intermittently, staying on for around 2 seconds followed by the water going cold. After this, the water warms up for say 10 seconds before repeating.





Submitted 788 days ago | by TuPz, Stamford, u
! Answer this question

A: The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open/close the safety device that allows the power through to the elements.

Also check that your shower is connected to the water mains and you have a minimum of 1bar water pressure, although your pressure may normally be good it can often drop dramatically first thing in the morning when everyone is showering.

Answered 787 days ago | Barrie
overheat light comming on 1 Answer

Q: Why is this?

Submitted 798 days ago | by harry, scotland
! Answer this question

A: I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faultyTCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top ofthe heating tank) Thereforea good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have powerat only one. (Thefunction of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to theelements until the water cools, this can take up to 15mins)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

After fitting a new TCO

When fitting a new TCO listen to the shower, after it hascompleted its first on/off cycle, if when it is switched off you hear itcontinuing to heat (Noise like a kettle starting to boil) this will mean thatthere is a switch or a relay that is stuck in the on position, this is keepingan element energised and this is probably what caused the original TCO to fail.

If this is the case replace the faulty switch or relay andmake sure that you switch the shower off at the isolating switch when theshower is not in use because this may cause the new TCO to fail.

Answered 798 days ago | The Doc
mira sport max 1 Answer

Q: my shower stopped working i replaced the on off switch on the unit as it did not click when i pushed it there is power coming to the unit from the switch but there is nothing happening at all not even a light thankyou joe

Submitted 803 days ago | by joe, Unknown
! Answer this question

A: Ifthere no lights it is almost certainly A PCB fault.

http://www.showerdoc.com/MIRA-1563-510-Mira-Pcb-Assembly-1563-510 

http://www.showerdoc.com/mira-parent-21-mira-sport-max

Answered 803 days ago | The Doc
Mira Sports Max cutting out 1 Answer

Q: Mira Sports Max shower cuts out after 3-5 mins. Water stops and all lights go out on the shower. Light on the power cord stays on.After few seconds (3-5) the lights come back on the shower. Have replaced the Valve assembly but made no difference. Any suggestions ?

Submitted 803 days ago | by Pravin, Birmingham
! Answer this question

A: When you say you have replaced the valveassembly I presume that, that is the flow valve assembly?

Ifall the lights are going out then I presume that you are losing the powersupply, there fore it may be worth looking at the pullcord switch and checkthat there is no signs of overheating and that all the terminals are tight.

Answered 803 days ago | The Doc
mira sport max 1 Answer

Q: my shower is playing up. does not seem to have any temperature control. on high it is really hot and medium is to cold. has my thermostate gone.

Submitted 807 days ago | by jeff, Unknown
! Answer this question

A: There are a few things that can cause this. First to checkis if the inlet filter is clear. If this is clear then either your flow valve oryour pcb are faulty. The only way to be sure is to replace first the flow valvethen if that does not cure the problem the pcb.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Mira-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-Kw-1563-508




http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-510-Mira-Pcb-Assembly-1563-510

Answered 805 days ago | bar-s
replacing the prd 1 Answer

Q: how do i change the prd

Submitted 819 days ago | by h4, liverpool
! Answer this question

A: The PRD just pushes into the bottom of the heating tank

Answered 819 days ago | The doc
Temp fine for first shower but second bather must turn heat way up 1 Answer

Q: Consistantly over past three weeks the first bather gets a normal shower and the second bather must turn the heat much higher with reduced pressure. Shower is a 4 yr old Mira Sport. Grateful for your response.

Submitted 831 days ago | by Heidi, Antrium
! Answer this question

A: The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allowspower through to the elements

 

Then other two things to  look at is one of the elements failing on thesecond shower or perhaps one of the relays on the PCB has become faulty

 

Answered 831 days ago | The doc
Mira Sport Max 10.8kw cutting out 1 Answer

Q: I have a Mira Sport Max 10.8kw Electric shower. Been working fine, only two years old, however since the weekend it runs for 10 minutes then cuts out - the low flow light comes on, however, no more water.



Submitted 836 days ago | by Anonymous, Unknown
! Answer this question

A: First I would check the solenoid .....See below.

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you havea multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failedstate.) (When it has stopped working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is notoperating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The videois intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checkingand testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are reallyuseful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fusesand letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of otherjobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

If you find that the solenoid is faulty then all you need doir replace it ......However!

Although there is a difference in the price the amount ofwork involved in replacing the solenoid is the same as replacing the flow valveand the solenoid is part of the flow valve I would always be tempted to replacethe complete flow valve rather than just the solenoid.

If the solenoid tests out OK and you are sure that it is notfaulty then you almost certainly need a new relay board.

Answered 833 days ago | The Doc
on/off button mira sport 1 Answer

Q: My son's on/off button on his mira sport doesn't stay in when pushed on. The only way to get a shower is to keep the finger on the button all the time. Does the shower need a new latching switch? If that is the case is it a standard part across the range?

Submitted 855 days ago | by Nick, Glasgow
! Answer this question

A: Yes it is likely to be the latching switch.

This latching switch is used in a number of other showers but not all.

Answered 854 days ago | The Doc
TCO Mira Sport 9.8Kw 1 Answer

Q: The TCO needs replacing in my shower yet again. I have noticed that it gets very damp in the well of the heat exchanger where the TCO locates and subsequently corrodes the TCO. Why is it getting damp as i have checked for leaks but cannot find anything? Can i smear Vaseline over the surface to stop corrosion?

Submitted 856 days ago | by Tubby, Gloucester
! Answer this question

A: One of the usual reasons for a TCO failing Is a stuck switch, see below for how to check.

After fitting a new TCO

When fitting a new TCO listen to the shower, after it has completed its first on/off cycle, if when it is switched off you hear it continuing to heat (Noise like a kettle starting to boil) this will mean that there is a switch or a relay that is stuck in the on position, this is keeping an element energised and this is probably what caused the original TCO to fail.

If this is the case replace the faulty switch or relay and make sure that you switch the shower off at the isolating switch when the shower is not in use because this may cause the new TCO to fail.

I can’t think why you would have dampness on top of the heating tank unless there is a problem with the seal between the front cover and the rear case.

My thought would be to dry it out have a shower then remove the cover immediately after the shower to see if you can establish where the water is coming from.

Answered 854 days ago | The doc
Mira Sport on/off button 1 Answer

Q: Hi we have the mira sport and this morning I turned on the pull cord for the electric, went to the shower which had a power light on it, and pressed the on/off button to start the water, and the power light went off and no water. Please can you help?

Submitted 867 days ago | by Helen, Leicester
! Answer this question

A: If the power light went off at the pull cord then you need a new pull cord switch.

If it went off only at the shower then you will need a new relay PCB

Answered 866 days ago | The Doc
mira sport max PRD 1 Answer

Q: Rubber ball has come out of the heater tank base and is now lost. Is this a pressure relief valve and are replacements available and is it easy to put back in?

Submitted 875 days ago | by Mozza, Bromsgrove
! Answer this question

A: Sorry for the delay in replying

This is the service pack that includes the red ball.

http://www.showerdoc.com/MIRA-935-57-Mira-Seal-Pack-C-w-Red-Prd-Ball-935-57

Answered 868 days ago | The Doc
mira sport 9kw cold 1 Answer

Q: mira sport shower only 2yrs old and will only run cold water even when turn on to very hot. No warning lights on.

Submitted 875 days ago | by dez, Unknown
! Answer this question

A: Sorry for the delay in replying

I suspect that you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out


A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements until the water cools, this can take up to 15mins)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

Answered 868 days ago | The Doc
Mira Sport Max 1 Answer

Q: I have a MIRA Sport Max 10.8KW. the overheat light came on about a week ago and the water was extremely hot. A week later the overheat light is still on and the water is cold on all programmes.



I have good flow and can select all programmes. I have removed the thermal switch from the heater tanks and the conection plate is badly corroded.



Does the thermal switch have any link to the overheat switch and does the bad corrosion have any effect on its operation.



Could you make any suggestions for fixing please?

Submitted 876 days ago | by Anonymous, Cambridgeshire
! Answer this question

A: Sorry for the delay in replying

I suspect that you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out


A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements until the water cools, this can take up to 15mins)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

Answered 868 days ago | The Doc
Mira Sport 10.8kw - no hot water 1 Answer

Q: I have a Mira Sport 10.8kw that is about 5 years old and it has worked perfectly until yesterday.



The shower was on high setting about mid temp and the flow was normal. Suddenly the power went off and the shower stopped - the main fuse for the loft area had tripped. On resetting it, the shower now powers up but the water remains cold. If I turn the temp up to max, the water temp slightly increasing to luke warm.



So no hot water!



The fuse has never tripped before and hasn't since.



Any ideas ? Thermal switch ? or something else ?



Thanks,



Andy



Submitted 890 days ago | by Andy J, West Wickham, Kent
! Answer this question

A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 889 days ago | The Doc
Unused spring 1 Answer

Q: Recently replaced flow valve assembly - thanks for clear instructions - was easy enough for this non-DIY-er save for getting the in-flow pipe re-attached. Got there in the end.



However, upon tidying up, I found a small spring (about the size you find in a pen) that had clearly fallen from the assembly.



To make matters worse, I then found an older version of the same spring, presumably from assembly I'd just removed.



Can anyone suggest where this spring sprang from?



Submitted 892 days ago | by Ewen, UK
! Answer this question

A: Can’t think of a spring can you send a photo of the spring?

Answered 889 days ago | The doc
Mira sport not heating up 1 Answer

Q: Hi I have a Mira sport that is about 3 years old. I turned it on yesterday and the water was coming out cold. Power light is on and I have tried it on different settings. Other than the temperature, it has a normal appearance with lights, flow, etc.

Can you help?

Submitted 894 days ago | by Tony, West Mids
! Answer this question

A: If the shower is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

If there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

If both the TCO and elements are OK then you probably need a new relay board.

Answered 894 days ago | The Doc
hot water turning cold.. 1 Answer

Q: when turning on the shower it starts of with cold water and it soon turns cold. have to keep turning the unit off and on again to to try to complete the shower...help!!!....p.s....think my shower is a sport and not a sport max??

Submitted 904 days ago | by bobby, staffs
! Answer this question

A: The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to  open / close the safety device that allows power through to the elements.

If the valves are OK then it is most likely that you need a new flow valve.

Answered 903 days ago | The Doc
mira sport max low flow 1 Answer

Q: on low and med settings shower runs but cold

when switching to high low flow light comes on and unit stops

i have replaced flow valve assembly and thermal switch but this has made no difference any advise appreciated thanks andy.

Submitted 915 days ago | by andy, wakefield
! Answer this question

A: It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have amultimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

If thereading from the elements are OK then you will need to replace the PCB

Answered 915 days ago | The Doc
power 1 Answer

Q: Have 10mm feed cable and double pole isolating switch, but have determined that it is the shower unit itself that is throwing out the rcd on the fuseboard (not the shower 40a fuse itself). Any idea which part on the unit would cause this fault, in order for me to replace the part rather than the unit?

Submitted 939 days ago | by robw, ipswich uk
! Answer this question
Almost certainly this is a blown element in the heating can , check this by measuring the resistence of the elements should be between 9 and 18ohms , if not a new heating can is required which can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.
A:
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-505-Mira-Heater-Tank-1-0-8-Kw-240-V-Ac-(9-9-Kw-230-V-Ac)-1563-505Answered 938 days ago | Alastair
power ? 1 Answer

Q: i have replaced the pull cord switch three times in the last year as it keeps burnig out / melting, the wiring is correct is the shower at fault

Submitted 943 days ago | by alan , gravesend
! Answer this question
A: The shower will not cause this , would suspect that the wiring is not of sufficient size , the Sport Max requires 10sqmil cable , not 6sqmil.Answered 941 days ago | Alastair
Leaking 1 Answer

Q: Hello,

my mira sport shower seems to be leaking from the top of the oval casing of the switching assembly? Any help most appreciated.

Brian.

Submitted 950 days ago | by Borders, Borders
! Answer this question

A: The Sport Max doesn’t have a switching assembly it uses a PCB I think you may be mistaken it for the flow valve, which if it is leaking would mean replacing the flow valve

That is assuming that this is your shower http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-21-Mira-Sport-Max  (This is where the ticket came from)

However from your description this could also be your shower. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-17-Mira-Sport---post-1996

If this is the case you will need a pilot valve

The Sport Max doesn’t have a switching assembly it uses a PCB I think you may be mistaken it for the flow valve, which if it is leaking would mean replacing the flow valve

That is assuming that this is your shower http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-21-Mira-Sport-Max  (This is where the ticket came from)

However from your description this could also be your shower. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-17-Mira-Sport---post-1996

If this is the case you will need a pilot valve

The pilot valve is a common fault

Turn off water and power

Put something in the waste just encase you drop a screw!

Remove cover

Remove splash plate at pipe entry

Remove 4 screws from 'U' clamps and 'U' clamps

Later models have “Torx” screws so you will need a “Torx” screwdriver with a T10 Bit.

Remove screw above letter 'A' on drawing

Ease pilot valve forward (if there is no movement on the pipe work you will have to disconnect it at the inlet connection take care to hold the brass body with pliers when slackening the nut)

Swap the wires over from one pilot valve to the other one by one

Then reassemble

Turn on water and allow the water to come thru unit before switching on power.

Easy init!!!!!

Link to Pilot valve

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-419-87-Pilot-Valve

Answered 950 days ago | The Doc
mira sport max boiling after use 1 Answer

Q: i have a problem with a mira sport max 10 .8kw. i change thermal switch on top of heater tank as it was running constant cold water this cured problem but when i switch shower off it boils up then hot water spurts out shower head for a few seconds then it goes on standby,the landlord was at it before me and i think he may have mixed up a wire any ideas i was wondering if one of the thin grey wires should be on the neutral connection of the heater tank

Submitted 965 days ago | by baz, bo'ness
! Answer this question

A: Yes it is possible that the wires have been mixed up or that there is a relay on the PCB that is stuck in the on position and in either case it is keeping one of the elements energised and therefore constantly heating.

Until you resolve the problem switch the shower on and off using the pull cord switch, this should however be regarded as a very temporary solution. (continued use will burn out other components)

Answered 965 days ago | The doc
mira sport max replacement flow valve 1 Answer

Q: is it difficult to fit a flow valve

Submitted 1003 days ago | by micky, bristol
! Answer this question

A:  The replacement is fairly straight forward.

Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantle most of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part out and the new part in.

This sounds more difficult than it actually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts wires etc. come from  and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos as you go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding.

 (you will need a Torx screwdriver with a T10 Bit)

Answered 1001 days ago | The Doc
Sport Max leak? 1 Answer

Q: when the shower is turned on water seems to leak from the top of the heater tank where the thermal switch sits





Submitted 1033 days ago | by mark, swindon
! Answer this question

A: It would be unusual for it to leak from there however if you are sure that is where it is leaking from it is just a case of replacing the can.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-505-Mira-Heater-Tank-1-0-8-Kw-240-V-Ac-(9-9-Kw-230-V-Ac)-1563-505

Answered 1033 days ago | The Doc
thermal switch leaking ? 1 Answer

Q: why does water seem to be coming/leeking from the thermal switch

Submitted 1061 days ago | by mark, swindon
! Answer this question

A: Sorry I can’t understand this because the thermal switch sits on top of the heating tank and shouldn’t in any way be connected to the water.

The only thing I can think of is that the top of the heating tank is in some way become perforated .....and that would be a first.

Could the water be coming from somewhere else and spraying on to the TCO ?

Answered 1061 days ago | The Doc
Mira sport max overheat 2 Answers

Q: Overheat light on constantly. It has been intermitant over the last week where the water temp would go hot and the light would come on, but it would correct itself after a short time. Now the light is on all the time and the water is cold. Have good water pressure through the shower. I have checked the black TCO on the top after reading other questions and there is power on both terminals. What else can I check?

Submitted 1075 days ago | by Mike, sheffield
! Answer this question

A: The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower, if all the above are OK then you will need to replace the flow valve.

http://showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Mira-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-Kw-1563-508
Answered 1075 days ago | The Doc

A: The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower, if all the above are OK then you will need to replace the flow valve.

http://showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Mira-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-Kw-1563-508
Answered 1075 days ago | The Doc
Mira Sport Max in op 1 Answer

Q: We have a problem with the temperature would go very hot and the overheat light would come on for a short period the water would run cold and then settle down when the light went out. Now the light is on permanently and the shower is cold.

Submitted 1075 days ago | by Scotty, Nottingham
! Answer this question

A: The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

If the above are Ok then the other possibility is a faulty flow valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

The problem you have is that with the shower continually going hot and cold the thermal switch has probably been over worked and has now failed.

There fore if the above checks are OK I think you are going to need a new TCO and a flow valve.

See below for how to check the Thermal Switch.

I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

Answered 1075 days ago | The doc
No water coming out even though shower is on 1 Answer

Q: All of a sudden the shower stopped working. No water is coming out even though the light goes green when the button is pressed. Any ideas how I can fix this. Thanks

Submitted 1121 days ago | by naeemsyed, Canning Town, London
! Answer this question

A:

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

If it is the solenoid my advice would be to replace the complete flow valve assembly

Answered 1120 days ago | The Doc
Low Flow, but water pressure is ok 1 Answer

Q: I have Mira Sport Max 10.8.

When swtiched on, the flow light illuminates and there is no hot water.

Water pressure is OK, but just only cold water from shower.

What needs to be changes?

Many Thanks

Submitted 1141 days ago | by mak, maidenhead
! Answer this question
This is almost certainly the flow valve at fault, replacement can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.
A:
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Mira-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-Kw-1563-508Answered 1141 days ago | Alastair
mira sport max inop 1 Answer

Q: some months ago I replaced the tco, and the shower worked fine until alittle over a week ago, when the shower showed the same fault,I replaced the tco again which worked for a few days then the low flow light came on for a few moments and the water was scalding befor working again, now the low flow light has stayed on and the shower has stoped working, please advise.

Submitted 1182 days ago | by ., Gravesend
! Answer this question

A:  I think your heating element has become faulty.

However I think you may have had a previous problem

First a relay on the PCB  sticking in the on position keeping one of the elements energised all the time.

This keeps the power on to the elements  the TCO (Safety Device ) keeps turning off the power to the elements, the TCO is designed for occasional use and because it is being used all the time it fails, cold water!

You replace the TCO, the relay is still sticking in the on position keeping one of the elements energised, this element fails (Because it is on all the time)and you now have a faulty heating can.

You may have heard the shower still heating a little after you switched it off

Not much help but it may explain what has happened

So I would guess at the moment you have a faulty PCB (Sticking relay)

A faulty TCO (Over use)

And a faulty heating can (Burnt out element)

Time for a new shower!

http://shower-warehouse.com/showers/electric-showers/mira/ZMIRA-1-1563-007-Mira-Sport-Max-Electric-Shower-10-8kW-(White-Chrome)

Answered 1182 days ago | The Doc
Mira Sport - Wailing noise 1 Answer

Q: I've got a Mira Sport shower, about 4 years old. Last year, it started making a wailing noise. If I turn the dial to hotter or colder, the wailing stops but the wailing happens at the just the position I want. Also, it doesn't seem to get as hot as it used to on the 'medium' button, so I usually have it on 'hot' these days. Any suggestions?

Submitted 1186 days ago | by cardiff_martian, cardiff
! Answer this question
This is a fault in the flow valve, replacement can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.
A:
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Mira-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-Kw-1563-508Answered 1182 days ago | Alastair
Mira Sport low flow light, cuts out after 3 minutes. 1 Answer

Q: I have a Mira sport shower, after 2-3 minutes the shower stops with the low flow light illuminated.

Do you have any suggestions?

Submitted 1195 days ago | by Mark, Wigan
! Answer this question
When it stops check there is a minimum of 230volts at the connector block in the unit, if not the isolation switch has gone high resistence and needs replacing.
A: If power ok the iy is likely to be the flow valve which can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Mira-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-Kw-1563-508Answered 1194 days ago | Alastair
Mira sport not hot 1 Answer

Q: I have just replaced a Mira Sport 9.0kw shower. Only problem now is the water temp is not too hot. The temp dial is fully turned clockwise to the red, the water is warm but not red hot. Both elements are working, so any other ideas would be very welcome.

Many thanks.

Submitted 1216 days ago | by ken, w.yorks
! Answer this question

A: I presume when you say replaced you mean that you have fitted a new unit.

If as you say both elements are working then the only reason that the water would be cool, is that there is too much water passing through the unit therefore not allowing the water time to heat up.

This in turn would point to a faulty flow valve.

However if the unit is new then don’t touch it, you may invalidate the guarantee, give Mira a ring and they will send out an engineer.

Answered 1215 days ago | The Doc
Sport Max wont switch on at the unit 1 Answer

Q: I have a 9 year old unit which appears dead in that none of the three power setting swiches operate - The ceiling switch is illuminated. Is this likely to be a PCB unit issue?

Submitted 1218 days ago | by TC, Yorkshire
! Answer this question

A: I think it is more likely that you have the 10.8 Sport and not the Max as this has only been out for about 4 years

The 10.8 Sport

http://showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-15-Mira-Sport-10-8kW---post-1998

And if it is the 10.8 then the fault is likely to be the PCB assembly

http://showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-415-48-PCB-Assembly

Answered 1218 days ago | The Doc
Low flow indicator illuminating 1 Answer

Q: Have just replac

Submitted 1223 days ago | by di_pi, Chryston, Glasgow
! Answer this question

A:  Could be one or two things however first..

You may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

Then check that the actuators on the flow valve are pressing against the switches on the switching assembly (It is just possible that they are misaligned)

Answered 1223 days ago | The Doc
Mira Sport Max 1 Answer

Q: Shower is 18months old and no problems until now. It is continually dripping (even when switched off) from what appears to be the flow valve assembly.Please advise.

Submitted 1226 days ago | by Sammy, Co Durham
! Answer this question

A: Yes it sounds like a faulty flow valve, however the Sport Max has a 2 year guarantee so I would get in touch with Mira.

Answered 1225 days ago | The doc
Mira max showerwill not stop 1 Answer

Q: Water keeps flowing even with electricity turned off. Shower operates normally when on, eg flow valve working. This happened last year after pipes froze but eventually started working with water stoping 30 seconds after shower turned off. This year although no pipes froze, cold water runs continuously even with everything turned off.

Submitted 1229 days ago | by liam, Glasgow
! Answer this question
It is going to need a new flow valve.
A:
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-kW
Answered 1228 days ago | The Doc
Mira Sport Max Cold 1 Answer

Q: hello my mira shower is showing a overheat warning light/only cold water

Submitted 1230 days ago | by stu, worcester
! Answer this question

A: I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

Answered 1228 days ago | The Doc
sport max terminal block 1 Answer

Q: Two questions please :



I am replacing the terminal block in my Mira 10.8kw sport max. What tool do i require to remove the very small screw which holds the block in place, and where would i purchase one from



Has the Mira sport max 10.8 kw shower got a history of problems with the terminal block assembly melting / welding itself to the back plate ? If so why ? thank you

Submitted 1268 days ago | by dean
! Answer this question

A: You probably need a Torx screwdriver with a T10 bit.

No problem with the terminal block to my knowledge

Answered 1264 days ago | The Doc
reduced flow and temp 1 Answer

Q: Both the flow and tempuriture have both decreased, is this because the thermal switch has broken?



Thanks for your help



Philip

Submitted 1278 days ago | by phil
! Answer this question

A: Hi

If the Thermal switch was faulty you would have no heat at all.

It is more likely that you have a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Answered 1277 days ago | The Doc
Mira Sport shower keeps turning off 1 Answer

Q: I have a Mira Sport electric shower and it has suddenly stopped working. When you press the on and off button to turn it on the water starts but then after 2-3 seconds the water stops - almost as though you have pressed the off button again. Any ideas on parts that may need replacing woul dbe appreicated. Ben

Submitted 1280 days ago | by bwillis1976
! Answer this question

A: I think it is needing a new flow valve assembly.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-kW

Answered 1280 days ago | The Doc
Low flow 1 Answer

Q: I have a Mira Sport Max 10.8kw shower.

Initially the shower works fine however after a few minutes it stops and the low flow light illuminates. The shower will not work for several hours but works again later.

I have checked that the water supply is ok.

Research suggests the solenoid coil needs replacing? Could you provide me with instructions on how to replace it.



Many thanks

Submitted 1286 days ago | by Ed
! Answer this question

A: It makes more sense to replace complete flow valve .

If the coil has gone then the flow valve will not last much longer and the valve comes complete with a new coil and switch.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-kW

Sport Flow Valve

Turn off water and power.

It may be useful to take photos before and as you strip down the unit they can be invaluable when reassembling

You will need a 'Torx' screwdriver with a T10 bit

Cover the waste pipe unless you want to loose the screws

Remove screws from 'U' clamp, switching assembly (at top of flow valve),the clip that holds flow valve and heating tank together and the screws at heating tank outlet pipe.

Ease tank and valve forward and slightly right, pull the heating tank away from the valve some water will run out of the tank at this point.

Allow the tank to hang on the wires strip off the wires from the existing flow valve and refit them to the new valve.

Fit the new check valve (supplied) to the flow valve outlet (Large end in)

Using the new 'O' rings (make sure they don’t fall off or become misplaced when fitting) fit the new flow valve make sure that it locates correctly with the heating tank clip and the locating pins at the top of the valve locate correctly with the switching assembly, as you push the whole assembly back into position ensure that the heating tank outlet pipe is in position and the inlet connector is in place.

The above procedure is not technically difficult however three pairs of hands and the ability to levitate will help and for sure you will be glad when you see it all back in place!

Once everything is back in place refit all the screws making sure that everything is located correctly and nothing is misaligned.

Turn on water and examine for leaks switch on power then turn shower on at cold setting and run for 1min. Take care when doing this as shower is now live.

Refit cover and test at different power settings.

If every thing is OK have a shower you deserve it!!!!!

Answered 1284 days ago | The Doc
Light going out on pull cord switch 1 Answer

Q: Shower will not switch on, no power light showing on shower panel.

Red light on pull cord switch on but goes out when you press the start button on the shower

Submitted 1290 days ago | by john
! Answer this question

A: Hi

You have a faulty pull cord switch, it needs replaced.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-installation/electrical-products/ELWBG002-45-Amp-Ceiling-Switch

Answered 1288 days ago | The Doc
MIRA SPORT MAX Tripping fuse 1 Answer

Q: JUST RECENTLY WHEN WE PUT THE SHOWER ON HIGH IT TRIPS THE ELECTRICS BUT SOMETIMES IT DOES IT ON MEDIUM BEEN FITTED FOR ABOUT 2 YEARS NOW ONLY JUST STARTED HAPPENING WE UPGRADED THE FUSE TO 60 AMP YEARS AGO BECAUSE IT KEPT TRIPPING THEN ! BUT FINE SINCE.



THANKS

Submitted 1292 days ago | by STEPHENHAYES1971
! Answer this question

A: The fuse on the shower circuit should be 45 amp, I think the 60amp fuse you mention will be the main fuse

Answered 1291 days ago | Anonymous
Mira Sport electric shower 1 Answer

Q: When the shower is turned off the water keeps running for several minutes before stopping....can this be rectified or is it a replacement shower...i don't know the model number or how old it is

Submitted 1314 days ago | by jezzer
! Answer this question
This is a fault with the flow valve which needs to be replaced, it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.
A:
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-kWAnswered 1314 days ago | Alastair
Shower runs very hot then overheat light kicks in, then runs cold 1 Answer

Q: my shower is running with good flow of water but very quickly gets much to hotthen the oerheat light turns on and water then runs cold as soon as overheat light turns off the water then becomes very hot again

Submitted 1386 days ago | by desperate ann
! Answer this question

A: The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
If all of these are OK then you need a new flow valve

Here is the Link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/electric-showers/MIRA-1563-508-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-kW

Answered 1386 days ago | The Doc
mira sport max 10.8kw, reduced presure and not as hot No Answers

Q: hi, i have search your forum and thought the heater tank was bust so bought one from you. then tested my tank and it looks fine so then bought a tco localy and fitted that . no joy. so i fitted the tank just for fun , no joy. thinking now it could be the flow valve? any ideas? the preasure is down and to get any heat you need to turn the dial right up.

Submitted 1389 days ago | by mwoo
! Answer this question
mira sport shower too hot 1 Answer

Q: water temp stays too hot on HIGH even when when set to cold. Please advise as to remedy.

Regards

John

Submitted 1398 days ago | by john
! Answer this question

A: The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it.

Also check that the shower is connected to the water mains and that the mains pressure is at least 1bar.

If all the above are OK then you may need a new flow valve.

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-kW

Answered 1397 days ago | The Doc
Shower Runs Cold! 1 Answer

Q: My shower only runs cold water on any setting and the

overheat light is on. What do you think the problem might be please?

Submitted 1496 days ago | by Jin
! Answer this question
It sounds like your TCO ( Thermal Cut Out ) has gone faulty and that means you would only get cold water coming through the shower.
A:
In some cases it can be just the TCO that has failed but in other cases you could have a problem with lack of water pressure or a fault with the flow valve causing the shower to keep overheating and taking out the TCO.

The part number reqiured is 416.41 in the link provided - http://www.showerdoc.com/MIRA-416-41-Thermal-Switch?ss=416-41 Answered 1496 days ago | Showerdoc
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