Triton T80i

A: If the red power light went off then check that the fuse has not blown or mcb has not tripped to the shower.

If the shower is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

If there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: 

Unfortunatelythere is nothing that is a direct swap.

 

However.......Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed roundbeing a retrofit unit  (Tritons word notmine!)

 

Thepipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonableamount of space for cable entry from most positions.

 

Hereis the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

 

See Video at the footof the page

 

A: 

It is most likely to be your solenoid valve, you can checkit if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms,across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve inthe failed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is notoperating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The videois intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checkingand testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are reallyuseful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fusesand letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of otherjobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

 

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you havea multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failedstate.) (When it has stopped working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is notoperating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The videois intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checkingand testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are reallyuseful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fusesand letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of otherjobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

 

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

If the elements are OK Check the outlet TCO

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe  (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)

Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced.   

 

 

 

A: 

 Perhaps I am notfollowing your question properly but why would you want to put a part in fromanother shower when the original TCO is still available?

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-22009870-Triton-Thermal-Cut-out-22009870

There are no fuses inside the shower unit its self, however itis not unusual for the neon’s to fail however they shouldn’t affect the runningof the shower.

 

After fitting a new TCO

 

When fitting a new TCO listen to the shower, after it hascompleted its first on/off cycle, if when it is switched off you hear itcontinuing to heat (Noise like a kettle starting to boil) this will mean thatthere is a switch or a relay that is stuck in the on position, this is keepingan element energised and this is probably what caused the original TCO to fail.

If this is the case replace the faulty switch or relay andmake sure that you switch the shower off at the isolating switch when theshower is not in use because this may cause the new TCO to fail.

A: This is most likely to be a blown element in the heating can shorting out to earth.
If it is a 7.5kw model a new can may be ordered online by clicking on this link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-2060029-Triton-Can-Assembly-7-5kw-2060029

If it is an8.5 or9.5kw these cans are now obsolete so a new shower is required , our recommended replacement is the Triton T80z and the appropriate wattage model can be ordered online via this link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton

A: The on/off button is an integral part of the front cover and as this is now obsolete and no longer available as is the on/off switch itself then the only answer is a new shower.
Our recommended replavement is the Triton T80z , the appropriate wattage model can be ordered online via the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton/electric-showers

A: 

Difficult one to diagnose without seeing it however it definitely sounds like a fault with one of the micro switches in the switching assembly.

A: 

The loom for this is now obsolete.

If you take the old bits of wire or a photo to Maplins http://www.maplin.co.uk/?C=GKW&U=TA&T=BRAND&gclid=COL2l9DGlY8CFRHREAodSTl2Fw  They will give you the bits you require and the tool for crimping the connectors on to the wires and all at less than half the price of a loom

 

A: 

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe  (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)

Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced.   

 

Unfortunately the outlet TCO on the T80i is now obsolete.

 

A: 

I am afraid it is a new shower.

 

Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap.

 

However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit  (Tritons word not mine!)

 

The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions.

 

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

See Video at the foot of the page

A: 

It will be the stabilizer valve that is leaking, unfortunately this part is now obsolete

Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap.

 

However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit  (Tritons word not mine!)

 

The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions.

 

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

 

See Video at the foot of the page

 

A: 

Yes it sounds like a solenoid fault

 

Here is how to check.

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

Yes it sounds like a solenoid fault

 

 

Here is how to check.

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

A: Afraid this is not a spare part but any competent electrician should be able to replace it

A: 

Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap.

 

However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit  (Tritons word not mine!)

 

The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions.

 

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

 

See Video at the foot of the page

 

A: There should be a label inside the shower but if not the wattage will be imprinted on the top of the heating can.

A: 

Unfortunately model is now obsolete although parts are still available.

 

Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap.

 

However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit  (Tritons word not mine!)

 

The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions.

 

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

 

See Video at the foot of the page

 

A: 

 Check that the switches in the switching assembly are operating properly you will often find that the button on the switch will be stuck half way in unlike this one

http://www.showerdoc.com/rs-2508590927-micro-switch-21-amp-(2-pin---universal)

 

A: 

Yes I think you are correct it is the heating element.

 

However I think you may have had a previous problem

First a switch sticking in the on position keeping one of the elements energised all the time, this element fails and you fit the first heating can.

 

The switch is still sticking on only now the TCO keeps turning off the power to the elements, the TCO is designed for occasional use and because it is being used all the time it fails, cold water!

 

You replace the TCO, the switch is still sticking in the on position keeping one of the elements energised, this element fails and you now have a second faulty heating can.

 

You may have heard the shower still heating a little after you switched it off.

 

Not much help but it may explain what has happened

A: 

If the shower is cold then the most likely fault is the TCO, on all our TCO pages there is a video clip showing how to test a TCO, to make sure it is faulty before you buy

 

If there is any heat at all then the TCO will not be faulty the most likely fault will be a faulty element in the heating tank.

 

See below to check for a faulty element.

 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

A: 

If the water is absolutely cold then you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

 

If there is some heat It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

If both the above are OK then have a look at The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe  (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)

Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced.   

A: 

I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

 

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

Also as it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced.

 

 

 

A: 

Hi

Part 9 is the stabiliser valve and unfortunately it is obsolete and there is nothing to take its place.

Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap for the T80i.

However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit (Tritons word not mine!)

The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions.

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

See Video at the foot of the page

A: 

Hi

Item 9 is the stab valve however this is obsolete and if it is leaking there is nothing you can do.

Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap.

However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit (Tritons word not mine!)

The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions.

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

See Video at the foot of the page

A: This is almost certainly a failure of 1 of the the heating elements and as practically all parts including the heating cans are now obsolete apart from the low power 7.5kw version would recommend a new shower such as the Triton T80z 8.5kw which can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

A: The pressure relief device has activated and needs replaced, it can be ordered online by clicking on this link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83301330-PRD-(Pressure-Relief-Device)-and-'O'-ring-(Pair)