Triton T200re

Most of the spares for this shower are now obsolete howeverthe solenois which may be the problem is still available.....See below.

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you havea multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failedstate.) (When it has stopped working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is notoperating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The videois intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checkingand testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are reallyuseful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fusesand letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of otherjobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83300420-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-Assy---Threaded-83300420

It came with different ratings there should be a plastic sticker on the underside of the cover and/or inside the unit, also it is stamped into the top of the heating can although this may be difficult to see.

I t could be coming from the solenoid valve or more likely theflow/stabilizer valve, if it is the stab valve then it is just age andunfortunately this valve is now obsolete.

If it is a 200RE I am not sure that I follow the 200RE and most of the parts have been obsolete for some time.

If you have checked all the other parts the it would suggest to me that there is a problem between the power pack and the wall outlet

Unfortunately the power pack is obsolete and there is no replacement.

the heating tank and TCO are the only two parts that are still available.

Triton recommends the Triton T300si remote or wireless model to replace it with but they will both need alterations to get them to fit…

http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/electric-showers/triton

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves. If the flow valve is faulty you have a problem because it is now obsolete.

The PRD needs replaced

It’s a safety device on the bottom of the heating tank or outlet pipe

It is fairly easy to replace however there is usually something that causes it to blow,

often a kink in the hose or the showerhead is blocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD.

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83301330-PRD-(Pressure-Relief-Device)-and-'O'-ring-(Pair)?ss=prd&pg=2

http://www.showerdoc.com/trito-82800450-triton-pressure-relief-device-82800450

Unfortunately this is not a straight forward replacement the wiring and pipe work from the remote to the power pack need replaced, unless you use the wireless version in which case you only need the pipe replaced.

Having said all that the 300 is still the easiest replacement for the 200

Afraid there is no easy replacement.

Our engineers have found the T300si wireless the easiest retro fit  

 http://www.shower-warehouse.com/showers/electric-showers/triton/ZTRITO-SP3009SIWLSA-Triton-T300SI-Wireless Electric-Shower-9-5kW-(Satin-Chrome)?pg=4

Followed by the non wireless version.

http://www.shower-warehouse.com/showers/electric-showers/triton/ZTRITO-SP3049SI-Triton-T300SI-Remote-Electric-Shower-9-5kW-(White)-?pg=3

The variations are here pages 3 and 4

 http://www.shower-warehouse.com/showers/electric-showers/triton?pg=1

There is nothing that is an easy replacement for the 200re because you have to replace the supply pipe from the power pack.

I t is most likely to be 8kw or 8.5

If the can is leaking from where you suggest then it is most likely that one of the relays on the board has stuck in the on position therefore keeping the elements energised all the time eventually causing the tank to fail.

As the pcb is now obsolete it is time to think about a new shower.

Hi Freddie

I am not exactly sure where the water is leaking from.

If it is from the PRD then replacing that should solve the problem, however if it is leaking from the base of the heater can assembly then the heating can, can be replaced, however with the age of this unit it may not be worth it.

George