Mira Escape

It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have amultimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply toappliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left inbatteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

If the shower is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

If there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to  open / close the safety device that allows power through to the elements.

If these are OK then check the elements ...see below

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

And if these are OK then you are going to need a new flow valve assembly

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-540-Mira-Flow-Valve---Inlet-Assembly-1563-540

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

3There is a filter on the inlet make sure that is clean and clear.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

If all of these things are OK then I think you are going to need a new flow valve.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-540-Mira-Flow-Valve---Inlet-Assembly-1563-540

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

If these are all OK then you probably need new flow valve.

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-540-Mira-Flow-Valve---Inlet-Assembly-1563-540