Q: Thanks for the reply!
The flow valve works fine, exactly as you describe - slow dribble when set very hot, fast flow when set very cold.
The noise does not sound like an electrical buzzing. It sounds like something resonating in the water flow. I attach an audio clip of the noise - towards the end of this clip I slowly increase the temperature control towards Hot, and you can hear the noise disappear - but the water is then too hot to shower.
Same effect when decreasing the temperature.
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Submitted 42 days ago | by
Sheep, Ipswich
A: I think you mayhave a faulty Thermal Cut Out (TCO).
A faulty TCO will have nocontinuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at bothconnections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(Thefunction of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to theelements until the water cools, this can take up to15mins) SeeVideo: http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs After fitting a new TCO Whenfitting a new TCO listen to the shower, after it has completed its first on/offcycle, if when it is switched off you hear it continuing to heat (Noise like akettle starting to boil) this will mean that there is a switch or a relay thatis stuck in the on position, this is keeping an element energised and this isprobably what caused the original TCO to fail. If thisis the case replace the faulty switch or relay and make sure that you switch theshower off at the isolating switch when the shower is not in use because thismay cause the new TCO to fail.
If after testing the tco is found to be sound, then it is back to the PCB. Answered 42 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: My Mira Sport 10.8kW has suddenly started making a loud buzzing noise when in operation and the temperature control is set to a comfortable showering temperature. Increasing or decreasing the temperature stops the buzzing noise, but then the shower is too hot/cold! The noise seems to be coming from the top of the heater tank, near to the Thermal Switch, but it's difficult to judge.
Can you advise whether replacing the flow valve assembly might fix this problem?
Thanks!
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Submitted 42 days ago | by
Sheep, Ipswich
A: http://www.showerdoc.com/MIRA-415-48-Mira-Pcb-Assembly-415-48The buzzing may come from the relays on this board and this may be the source of the fault. But this is hard to check, you could start with the following, Forgetting about the temperature turn the showerfrom fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than adribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strongflow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faultyflow valve.
and if this is ok then suspect the pcb. Answered 42 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: Hi,
My shower has stopped working, no LEDs on at all. The shower is fed direct from the mains. Any idea what is wrong? Thanks
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Submitted 62 days ago | by
DEK, FALKIRK
Answered 60 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Is it difficult for a non-electrician like myself to replace a heater heater tank?
Thnaks.
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Submitted 65 days ago | by
mickey, Newry, Co Down
A: I am often asked “Is this a DIY job” to be honest I can’tanswer that, because without knowing someone, it isn’t possible to assess theirskills? I should say that most jobs on showers although relativelyeasy (from my point of view) can be fiddly and an extra pair of hands, longthin fingers and the strength in your hands of an all in wrestler are a help! The secret is, observing verycarefully when thing are taken to bits, their order and orientation, takingnotes and/or photos as you go can also be a help. When you are working with electricity and water so make sure it is switched off and turned offbefore you start. If you think you can do the job but aren’t just thatconfident, it may help to buy the part and compare it to the faulty part, youwill then be able to see where the screws, wires, nuts, or washers etc. go, ifthen you think it is to complicated, at least you will have the part when theplumber or electrician arrives. We will always be here to offer help and advice if you runinto a problem, however it is not thesame as being on site where we can get the overhaul picture, if you are stillnot sure, now is the time to call in a professional. Answered 65 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: I was showering and the unit got a little noisey and then it threw the trip. After the trip was reset the temperature switch has to be turned up very high to get hot water (although the flow is very low). Any ideas?
Thanks.
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Submitted 66 days ago | by
mickey, Newry, Co Down
Answered 65 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Hi my mira sport is dripping from the shower head when switched off. Is there an easy fix that I could do myself?
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Submitted 88 days ago | by
Anonymous, Bangor Northern Ireland
A: If the shower is passing and leaking through the shower head when switched off then it sounds like the flow valve or pilot valve switching assembly that is at fault depending on the year of sport?- All the sport models can be found via this link provided - http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/miraI would check first that its not just water lying in the shower head before replaceing anything, take the head off the shower and drain away all the water and let the hose hang down and see if it still passes. If not then the head needs a new sprayplate and seals or replaced. Answered 87 days ago | LC |
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Q: our mira sport which is nearly 4 years old has stopped working properly. the water pressure is low and the there is very little heat even when turned up full. It stopped working in the middle of a shower and blew a fuse in the house.
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Submitted 95 days ago | by
lynn, scotland
A: It likelyto be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 94 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi,
Water isn't being heated on any flow or heat setting on the above shower. Tested continuity over the TCO and its fine. All other lights and dials operate as normal. Water is freezing on them all. Heating element perhaps?
Thanks,
John
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Submitted 119 days ago | by
John.McGowan@openwave.com, Belfast
A: It would bevery unusual for both elements to fail at the same time so if an element hadfailed then you will always have some heat. The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allowspower through to the elements. There is an actuator on thetop of the flow valve when you switch the shower on make sure that it is makingcontact with the switch on the bottom of the PCB If it isn’t then it is likely thatyou have a faulty flow valve. Answered 116 days ago | The doc |
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Q: no stand by light no water
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Submitted 138 days ago | by
Anonymous, devon
A: Check that you are getting to the shower if you have powerthen you probably have a faulty relay board Answered 137 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: when the medium or the high is pressed the overheat light comes on, the water pressure is good and the filter is clean
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Submitted 157 days ago | by
mell, kettering
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety devicewill turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
If all the above are OK then you probably need a new flow valve. http://www.showerdoc.com/MIRA-1563-508-Mira-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-Kw-1563-508 Answered 156 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: I have power but no flow from Mira Sport 7.5kW. After reading 10.8kW forum, I was persuaded to replace the solenoid valve (and ordered one). However, I've since found the 9.5kW forum, in which you say the flow regulator is a non-servicable single assembly. They look identical from drawings. Please can you confirm whether I can change solenoid, or should I return it unopened?
Thanks Pete
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Submitted 213 days ago | by
Pete_D, Exeter
A: Hi Pete You don’t mention which vintage of Sport you have, you canreplace just the solenoid coil on the flow valve, however you have to removethe flow valve to do this, so the amount of work involved in replacing the flowvalve and the coil is the same. The flow valve is the part of the unit that goes wrong moreoften, so if you replace the solenoid coil you may find that a couple of monthslater you end up having to replace the complete valve, therefore you will havethe same amount of work to do again and you will be left with a coil. That’s the reason that in every case it is always much moresensible to replace the complete unit. Regards Answered 212 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: when turning shower on the low flow light comes on, water does come out but no heat. pressure seems fine. problem was temporarily fixed by switching on and off (low and stop buttons) many times until the light went off and water heated fine. Also when it did get hot I managed to get it working the next time by switching to low and turning it to it's coldest setting for a few seconds before switching off.
What do you think is the problem? and part to replace?
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Submitted 257 days ago | by
nicola, Keighley
Answered 256 days ago | The Doc
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Q: The Mira Sport shower works fine for about 3 minutes and then the low flow light comes on and the shower stops. I have tested the solenoid in the flow valve and get a reading of 1.4 k ohms.
Does the fact that it works for some time before stopping make a difference to your recomendation to replace the coil if less than 3.5 k ohms.
Also, in your previous responses you give a link to a video on how to replace but the link doesn't work when I try it.
Many thanks
David
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Submitted 308 days ago | by
David, Worcester
A: Yes it is the solenoid which is part of the flow valve. Because there is not a huge difference in cost and it involves more work changing the coil on this valve than it does changing the complete flow valve coupled with the fact that the flow valves themselves become faulty, it is not worth just changing the coil when the flow valve itself may become faulty in a few weeks. Checked the solenoid link and it appears to be OK this morning http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc Answered 305 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Can the new Mira Sport Max be mounted on the same footprint as the old Mira Sport 10.8 ie supply locations etc.
All of my plumbing and power is hidden behind tiled service false wall and is a major rave to alter eg. tiles discontinued.
Regards
Andy M
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Submitted 316 days ago | by
Andy M, Goxhill North Lincolnshire
Answered 315 days ago | The doc
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Q: The shower has power and all lights come on. When any of the high medium low buttons are pressed the shower starts for a few seconds but then a valve shuts off. the light stays red and does not change to green. This has degenerated over a few months and always eventually started but now does not stay on. Water heater is OK as new one fitted a few years ago. Any ideas to part or parts required? PCB?
Best regards
Andy Merrison
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Submitted 316 days ago | by
Andy M, Goxhill, North Lincolnshire
A: The fault could be with the solenoid which is part of the flow valve or a faulty PCB. The best thing to do is to check the solenoid and if it is at fault then replace the flow valve if the solenoid is OK then the problem is with the PCB. See below for how to check the solenoid. It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 315 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Does this mean the thermostat has gone
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Submitted 354 days ago | by
jey , worcestershire
A: If you mean the water output is too hot then it probably means the water flow is being restricted. Check the shower hose is not kinked or collapsed internally and the head is clear. Check that mains water incoming stopcock and any isolation valve in the feed to the shower are fully open. Check with your supplier thaat there has not been a reduction in supply flow or pressure. Check that inlet filter in the unit is clear. If all above are ok then it is likely to be the flow valve at fault , replacement can be ordered online by clicking on this link. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Mira-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-Kw-1563-508If you mean the overheat neon is illuminated and the water is cold then it is the tghermal switch , check for continuity , if open circuit then replacement can be ordered using this link http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-416-41-Mira-Thermal-Switch---416-41 Answered 351 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: Hi,
Problem as above, shower will not turn off by pressing the stop button on the unit. Sometimes it will turn off if you spray the stop button with the shower head!!! Otherwise, we turn it to low, and then once out of the shower, we pull the electric on/off pull chord switch. The shower unit at this point makes the normal noise of switching off - I guess this is the solenoid, so I am wondering if it is the switch and not the valve at fault?
KInd regards
Johnny
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Submitted 361 days ago | by
Johnny, Dorset
Answered 359 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Hi, the overheat light keeps coming on and then going off after 30 seconds. The water temperature goes down when the light is on and then returns to normal after it has gone off.
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Submitted 361 days ago | by
Granty, Boston
Answered 359 days ago | Alastair
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Q: do not get hot water when on High but I do on the Medium setting. What part needs replacing?
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Submitted 447 days ago | by
CJB, Cheshire
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably the printed circuit board. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878
The heating can or the pcb can be ordered online via the link below.
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-15-Mira-Sport-10-8kW---post-1998 Answered 445 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: Water wont stop
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Submitted 451 days ago | by
bigman, sotland
Answered 450 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Is this the right terminal block for the 10.8 Kw rated shower as the description says 9.8Kw 240V ac
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Submitted 453 days ago | by
Dave H, Stockport
Answered 453 days ago | Alastair
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Q: MIRA-416.59 OBSOLETE - Case Assembly
where can i get one please?
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Submitted 504 days ago | by
colin, southport
Answered 501 days ago | The Doc
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Q: My mira 10.8 sport shower will not switch on at all, there seems to be no power but cover removed and there is power to the unit, tested with a volt meter. When switching on at the ceiling pull switch nothing on the cover works, no buttons no lights at all, what can be wrong
regards
Paul
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Submitted 581 days ago | by
gnasher
Answered 578 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Hi.
I think that one or more of the elements in the water tank may be faulty, how can I check to confirm this?
Regards Bill
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Submitted 582 days ago | by
Bill
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 581 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: To obtain a reasonable water temperature the dial needs to be turned almost to the RED No 8, when No 6 prooved hot enough before. The flow of water therefore is greatly reduced. Could you sugest a cause and remedy please.
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Submitted 585 days ago | by
Bill
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 584 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: When i turn on my shower it just lights up low flow, and no water comes out, i have a mira sport 10.8. Please can you advise what parts i will need
Sarah
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Submitted 594 days ago | by
sarah
A: Hi Sarah It could be a faulty PCB or a faulty Flow valve First check the solenoid in the flow valve you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester If the solenoid is faulty then it is best to replace the complete flow valve, if the solenoid is OK then it is almost certainly the PCB that is faulty. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-kW http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-415-48-PCB-Assembly Answered 592 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: I have a Mira sports max 10.8kw. My low flow light comes on after few seconds when I select medium or high heat setting. When I select low heat setting nothing is happening. Overall my shower is not working at all. Last few days I feel current leakage through stop button. I have checked inlet filter and water pressure seems ok.
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Submitted 614 days ago | by
thiva
Answered 612 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Water flows continuously whether power on or off. Occurred after water turned off at mains and then turned on again. Some minor leakage from around solenoid / flow valve assembly.
What is likely to have failed?
How easy is it to replace these parts?
Many thanks
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Submitted 661 days ago | by
Phil
Answered 661 days ago | Alastair
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Q: hi got a mira sport 10.8 kW and it is running to hot. The temp control has no effect. Please can you tell me what could be the problem?
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Submitted 702 days ago | by
Chaddy
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it.
Also check that the shower is connected to the water mains and that the mains pressure is at least 1bar.
If all the above are OK then you may need a new flow valve.
Here is the link.
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-kW Answered 701 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My overheat light has come on and only cold water will come out, what could be wrong with it?
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Submitted 752 days ago | by
Laura
A: I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs Answered 752 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: my mira shower no longer seems to heat the water as it used to. it used to be on the half way point on the temp seting for a warm shower, which gave a resonable pressure of water, however you now have to move the temp setting right around to the hot setting in order to have a warm shower, this means the pressure of the water is greatly reduced, any ideas to the problem? no warning lights apear but the shower does not seem to make a noise now when it is turned on.
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Submitted 761 days ago | by
plym-man
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 760 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: low flow light ON- Filter clean- water supply to shower good
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Submitted 782 days ago | by
stupideejay
Answered 780 days ago | Alastair Answered 780 days ago | Alastair
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