Q: Hi,
Have Mira Sport with 9.0w heater tank on the blink. Is it possible to simply replace it with a 9.8w tank or are there other parts I need to replace as well to achieve this "upgrade"?
Thanks
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Submitted 1 day ago | by
mike, sheffield
A:
To be honest on most occasions it is no problem to change for a higher rated tank and the internal components of most showers (Not all) are compatible with a higher rated heat exchanger. The problem we have is because we cannot see or inspect the installation fuses etc. we have to recommend that you stick with the same rating as is in your existing unit. Answered 1 day ago | Barrie |
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Q: This is a Mira Sport 9 shower.circa 2001
Over past year or so the pressure at the shower head has been falling.
I have cleaned and checked the shower head many times and I know it isn't that which is causing the problem as I have a similar shower in an en-suite that works perfectly. When I swap the shower heads over it makes no improvement to the Sport 9.
Have checked the filter and cleaned some hard salts out of that. Also checked the flexi-hose and that's fine.
So am I coming down to the fault being in the flow valve? Or am I missing something easier please?
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Submitted 10 days ago | by
Ricky44, Cornwall
A: Yes I would suspect the flow valve as well. Answered 10 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: Hi, pressing on-off switch in, the shower starts then cuts out after only a few seconds, if you keep pressure on the button it will make shower work, got it wedged in with a paperclip at the moment and using the pull cord to turn off,could this be just item 17(switch) on the diagram?
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Submitted 88 days ago | by
ringer, tr10 8eu
A: The switch should click in and out when you switch it off/on. If you dont hear clicking then it is a faulty switch. Answered 87 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: The casing and bracket that holds the inlet and the flow valve together have broken so water is coming out as there is nothing to hold the two pieces together. My shower case assembly is apparently obsolete and no longer available so will a post 2006 casing accomodate the post 1998 internals
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Submitted 96 days ago | by
Des, Suffolk
A: You could probably do this as the parts are the same, if you could get hold of a post 2006 back body, but Mira wont sell these. Answered 95 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: Hi
Your picture for the 9.0Kw heater tank includes the micro switches and outlet connector. Are these included in a heater purchase or are they separate? If they are separate, is it avisable to change these items at the same time as the heater tank.
Many thanks.
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Submitted 102 days ago | by
MikeH, Dundee
A: You would normally have one check valve in the hot and oneon the cold inlets Answered 102 days ago | The Doc A: These items are supplied with the heater tank.. Answered 102 days ago | Barrie A: Don’t be concerned with the 15/60 cycle times. All pumps have to have an EU rating, without getting too complicatedthis is the easiest one to comply with so most manufactures of motors that havebrushes just use this. In a well ventilated area these motors can run continually alsothey all have an internal cut out so if they start to overheat they will cutout. Answered 102 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hello, our Mira Sport 9kw electric shower (P3953005) bought in March 2005, needs to be replaced. They are no longer available and I would like a like-for-like for fixing it to the wall so I don't have to make new holes, also for the water supply and electrical fittings etc.
Please could you let me know which Mira shower would fit. It is a 9v shower
Thanks for your help
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Submitted 115 days ago | by
Maddy, Glasgow
Answered 115 days ago | The doc
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Q: mira sport 9kw tripping cosumer unit after 5-10 mins fairly warm use , have check for any burn marks inside and switches etc ,seems ok and it switches back on within a few minutes ,any advice would be very helpful.
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Submitted 138 days ago | by
js, paisley-pa2 8jf
A: What size of MCB do you have in your consumer unit ....You need 40amp. If the MCB is OKthenit may be worth checking your solenoid, check it just after the MCB trips.....See below for how, if the solenoid os at fault thenI would advise replacing the complete flow valve. It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you havea multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failedstate.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is notoperating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The videois intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checkingand testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are reallyuseful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fusesand letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of otherjobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 137 days ago | The doc |
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Q: when in the shower power to the house tripped now the water is running cold unless we turn the temp. control right up and then it is only lukewarm and the flow is poor.Can you help please
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Submitted 161 days ago | by
meeky, haddington
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 158 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: shower turn off after 10 seconds but when hold butten in it stays on can you help
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Submitted 168 days ago | by
barneymcm, United Kingdom
A: This is a faulty latching switch but before ordering and fitting check for signs of water damage as this is usually the cause of this fault and is normally caused by a leak in the flow valve. If any sign of water then would recommend replacing the flow valve which comes with a new switch. Parts can be ordered online via the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-18-Mira-Sport---post-1998 Answered 166 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: water either red hot down to first grey dot on temperature adjuster or cold
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Submitted 227 days ago | by
useless, north yorks
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
If all the above are OK then the flow is valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower and will need to be replaced.
http://www.showerdoc.com/MIRA-1563-507-Mira-Flow-Valve-Assembly-1563-507 Answered 226 days ago | The doc |
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Q: Hi,
I have a Mira Sport 9.8Kw (Dec 2003) that was working fine on Saturday (my daughter was having a shower). Turned it off, tried to turn it on a minute or two later and nothing. Power light is on but when you press the start button the power light goes off. Heater settings, etc, make no difference. Any ideas? Young children get smelly quite quickly, so help would be appreciated. :)
Cheers,
Paul.
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Submitted 228 days ago | by
Paul, Worcestershire
A: I think that your isolating switch is faulty. Answered 228 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Shower head just started to drip water, duration between drips appears to be decreasing about 1 drip every 2 seconds, very annoying, is there a washer that can be replaced, similar to a tap washer, anyone had the same problem? can it be fixed, any help appreciated
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Submitted 298 days ago | by
Father T, Nottingham
A: It is going to need a new flow valve, it is a fairly common fault Sport Flow Valve Turn off water and power. It may be useful to take photos before and as you strip down the unit they can be invaluable when reassembling You will need a 'Torx' screwdriver with a T10 bit Cover the waste pipe unless you want to loose the screws Remove screws from 'U' clamp, switching assembly (at top of flow valve),the clip that holds flow valve and heating tank together and the screws at heating tank outlet pipe. Ease tank and valve forward and slightly right, pull the heating tank away from the valve some water will run out of the tank at this point. Allow the tank to hang on the wires strip off the wires from the existing flow valve and refit them to the new valve. Fit the new check valve (supplied) to the flow valve outlet (Large end in) Using the new 'O' rings (make sure they don’t fall off or become misplaced when fitting) fit the new flow valve make sure that it locates correctly with the heating tank clip and the locating pins at the top of the valve locate correctly with the switching assembly, as you push the whole assembly back into position ensure that the heating tank outlet pipe is in position and the inlet connector is in place. The above procedure is not technically difficult however three pairs of hands and the ability to levitate will help and for sure you will be glad when you see it all back in place! Once everything is back in place refit all the screws making sure that everything is located correctly and nothing is misaligned. Turn on water and examine for leaks switch on power then turn shower on at cold setting and run for 1min. Take care when doing this as shower is now live. Refit cover and test at different power settings. If every thing is OK have a shower you deserve it!!!!! PS If I have missed anything or you think of something that will make this job easier then please let me know and I’ll add it to the instructions. PPS The flow valve has recently changed it now needs the switching assembly replaced and a new neon at the same time, these instructions have not yes been up dated to take this in to account. Flow valve http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-507-Flow-Valve-Assembly Switching assembly http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-509-Switching-Assembly Neon http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-514-Low-Flow-Neon-Assembly Answered 297 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: hi my shower is just running the water out of it from the shower box and it wasnt even turned on ,, had to turn the main water flow off till get it stopped ,, can i buy a part till get this fix ?
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Submitted 312 days ago | by
lizzie, co derry ,n,ireland
A: You will need to replace the flow valve it is a common fault. Sport Flow Valve Turn off water and power. It may be useful to take photos before and as you strip down the unit they can be invaluable when reassembling You will need a 'Torx' screwdriver with a T10 bit Cover the waste pipe unless you want to loose the screws Remove screws from 'U' clamp, switching assembly (at top of flow valve),the clip that holds flow valve and heating tank together and the screws at heating tank outlet pipe. Ease tank and valve forward and slightly right, pull the heating tank away from the valve some water will run out of the tank at this point. Allow the tank to hang on the wires strip off the wires from the existing flow valve and refit them to the new valve. Fit the new check valve (supplied) to the flow valve outlet (Large end in) Using the new 'O' rings (make sure they don’t fall off or become misplaced when fitting) fit the new flow valve make sure that it locates correctly with the heating tank clip and the locating pins at the top of the valve locate correctly with the switching assembly, as you push the whole assembly back into position ensure that the heating tank outlet pipe is in position and the inlet connector is in place. The above procedure is not technically difficult however three pairs of hands and the ability to levitate will help and for sure you will be glad when you see it all back in place! Once everything is back in place refit all the screws making sure that everything is located correctly and nothing is misaligned. Turn on water and examine for leaks switch on power then turn shower on at cold setting and run for 1min. Take care when doing this as shower is now live. Refit cover and test at different power settings. If every thing is OK have a shower you deserve it!!!!! PS If I have missed anything or you think of something that will make this job easier then please let me know and I’ll add it to the instructions. PPS The flow valve has recently changed it now needs the switching assembly replaced and a new neon at the same time, these instructions have not yes been up dated to take this in to account. Flow valve http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-507-Flow-Valve-Assembly Switching assembly http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-509-Switching-Assembly Neon http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-514-Low-Flow-Neon-Assembly Answered 311 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Can a Mira Sport 2 be directly replaced with a Mira Play? In particular do the water and power connections match?
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Submitted 326 days ago | by
Philip, Glasgow
A: It is not an exact match but it is very close Answered 325 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi can anyone help I Have a mira sport shower
its about 8yrs old 2002/3 working fine turned it off, left for a few minutes pressed the on off button nothing happened, no water no noises, power light is on turn,but nothing happens when you press the on off button,if you turn the temp setting from high to low,and turn the pressure settings knob to low,mdeiumand high settings still nothing happens.
Only thing I can report and have noticed is on the low pressure setting the low flow light is not illuminated (on), when you turn it to medium and high setting low flow light is on,
power light is on all the time.
Any one got any ideas what spre part I need to fix 2 children, and my wife need the shower back working as soon as possible.
Thanks in advance for your help
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Submitted 333 days ago | by
Charlie, oldham mancheser
Answered 332 days ago | The Doc
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Q: The Start/stop Button on my Mira Sport - post 1998 model has fallen out. At first I thought it was as the result of some part of the button breaking but on close examination I do not see any visible signs of breakage nor do I see any obvious way of refitting it. Is this a fault with these showers and if so what part of the component usually fails? In your opinion is a new button normally the answer or am I missing something when I examine the components?
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Submitted 340 days ago | by
beamer, Co Down, Northern Ireland
Answered 339 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Recently replaced latching switch apparently successfully but now after a few weeks flow is stopping after a few seconds, however latching switch is not popping out as before, it appears to be functioning normally. Flow resumes if you press switch again but again cuts out, ie same thing happens with switch in the in position and the out position, and in both cases the switch stays put as the flow stops. Still got 230V after flow stops. Is it the flow valve or could it be something electrical? It was quite difficult to get the spade connectors on to the new latching switch.
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Submitted 364 days ago | by
gipsy, Edinburgh
A: The flow valve has a solenoid valve in it and I think that the solenoid is failing and if this is the case you are best to replace the complete flow valve. Answered 364 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: would the Triton t80z be a suitable replacement for a Mira Sport (post 98)?
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Submitted 382 days ago | by
n/a, highlands
A: Yes the T80Z is a good option also the Mira jump if you want to stick with Mira Answered 381 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Please can you advise on the following?
Flow is weak, almost down to a trickle, changing power settings does not make any difference to flow.
Water only gets hot when dial is set very high and even then is not as hot as should be and tends to be inconsistent.
The Low Flow light isn't on, but does flicker on briefly when changing the power setting between medium and low (may have always done this - not sure).
Thank you.
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Submitted 424 days ago | by
RG, West Yorkshire
A: I think you have a faulty flow valve Sport Flow Valve Turn off water and power. It may be useful to take photos before and as you strip down the unit they can be invaluable when reassembling You will need a 'Torx' screwdriver with a T10 bit Cover the waste pipe unless you want to loose the screws Remove screws from 'U' clamp, switching assembly (at top of flow valve),the clip that holds flow valve and heating tank together and the screws at heating tank outlet pipe. Ease tank and valve forward and slightly right, pull the heating tank away from the valve some water will run out of the tank at this point. Allow the tank to hang on the wires strip off the wires from the existing flow valve and refit them to the new valve. Fit the new check valve (supplied) to the flow valve outlet (Large end in) Using the new 'O' rings (make sure they don’t fall off or become misplaced when fitting) fit the new flow valve make sure that it locates correctly with the heating tank clip and the locating pins at the top of the valve locate correctly with the switching assembly, as you push the whole assembly back into position ensure that the heating tank outlet pipe is in position and the inlet connector is in place. The above procedure is not technically difficult however three pairs of hands and the ability to levitate will help and for sure you will be glad when you see it all back in place! Once everything is back in place refit all the screws making sure that everything is located correctly and nothing is misaligned. Turn on water and examine for leaks switch on power then turn shower on at cold setting and run for 1min. Take care when doing this as shower is now live. Refit cover and test at different power settings. If every thing is OK have a shower you deserve it!!!!! PS If I have missed anything or you think of something that will make this job easier then please let me know and I’ll add it to the instructions. PPS The flow valve has recently changed it now needs the switching assembly replaced and a new neon at the same time, these instructions have not yes been up dated to take this in to account. Flow valve http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-507-Flow-Valve-Assembly Switching assembly http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-509-Switching-Assembly Neon http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-514-Low-Flow-Neon-Assembly Answered 423 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: Thank you for answering my previous question.
I read that you can replace Mira Sport Showers new for old (answer to question below) but do the showers have to be the same Kw as I read elsewhere. In other words can I replace my 7.5 kw with a 9 or 9.5 model ?
Bob J Cambridge
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Submitted 424 days ago | by
Bob J, Cambridge GB
A: If the shower has been wired correctly then you should be able to go to a 9.5 kw shower, however you may have to change the fuse. However the only person that can let you know if it has been wired correctly is an electrician. So unless you know for sure, the only safe route is to replace like for like. Answered 423 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Whilst working normally, something in the shower "blew" and tripped the cut-off switch for power in the whole house.Having restored power the shower now only provides luke warm water when the switch is turned to full power and on full flow.What do you think has blown and can it be replaced ?
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Submitted 425 days ago | by
Bob J, Cambridge GB
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 424 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: I fitted an new thermal Switch and we were getting hot water again, however when I try to switch the shower of it doesnt, water flow is stopped and then started with very hot water coming out, I press the On switch and it runs for a while OK. The only way I can switch it off completely is by switching off the power to the unit.
What could be the problem, could I have connected a wire incorrectly when replacing the Thermal switch
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Submitted 428 days ago | by
Lawrie, Stockport
Answered 427 days ago | The doc
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Q: Hi when ordering the mira front cover asembly 416.60 does the mira stop button [oval]417.84 come complete with the front cover thankyou]
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Submitted 436 days ago | by
davo, chester
A: Yes the button is part of the cover assembly Answered 436 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My shower recently has gotten colder requiring the thermostat to be set at maximum. Even then, the temperature is still not quite as warm. Furthermore the flow seems to have diminished. What is the problem?
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Submitted 441 days ago | by
Lennard, Edinburgh
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878Once the fault is diagnosed then replacement part can be ordered online via the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-18-Mira-Sport---post-1998 Answered 441 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: when i press the start button the flow light flashes on and then goes out and water comes on for 2 seconds,but if i hold the start button in the shower works. i wonder if this is a faulty solenoid coil
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Submitted 442 days ago | by
watty, northumberland
Answered 442 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Hi
With the shower set to 'high' the temperature control has to be wound over past half way before the water warms up. This also reduces the flow through the shower head. Turning the temperature control down to cold increases the flow again but then you lose heat in the water.
I have looked at your advice about measuring the elements and placed a meter across the 4 posts on top of the heater tank. Are these the element connections? Between the 2 on the left was 12 ohms between the 2 on the right was an open circuit.
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Submitted 493 days ago | by
N A, Peterborough
Answered 492 days ago | The Doc
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Q: shower wont switch off only after several minuites or switching off electric supply 4 or 5 times
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Submitted 495 days ago | by
insomniac, bodmin
Answered 494 days ago | Anonymous
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Q: I have changed the TCO and the shower worked for 2 days, have you any idea why it is still running cold
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Submitted 503 days ago | by
sonia, walsall
A: I think you have a switch jammed in the on position this is keeping the elements energised and the fact that that the shower has effectively been on all the time has taken out the new TCO Answered 501 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: I have problems trying to keep high temperatures you can set the right heat and when you use the shower again it is cool. with the temp control at high I still have to turn the regulator to high
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Submitted 537 days ago | by
pete, Taunton
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester If the elements are OK then you may need a new flow valve. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-507-Flow-Valve-Assembly Answered 536 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: Our Mira Sport shower stopped working, and it seems that something inside causes rather high currents to be drawn.
=> Severe burn-marks in the external switch (the one with the chord, not part of the Mira Sport), and consequently the fuse did/would "blow"...
What could be the cause for that, and is it worth fixing ?
PS: 1. The shower is about 10 years old. 2. I'm pretty sure that the fault is in the Mira Sport shower "box".
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Submitted 542 days ago | by
Derik
A: From your description it is very likely that the fault lies entirely with the pullcord switch which has gone high resistence. This will have to be replaced no matter what so replace this before checking out shower. I`m pretty confident this will resolve the matter. Answered 541 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: Hi
All the lights come on on the shower but when i press the button to switch the shower on it just makes a very quiet buzzing noise and does not operate.
Any ideas? If i needed to replace it are there other showers that fit the same screw holes as i cannot afford a replacement Mira sport - it was here when we moved in.
Many thanks for your help
Damian Clayton
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Submitted 544 days ago | by
damo
Answered 544 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Hi, my shower made a noise like it was starting to boil then the water went almost cold, there is still some heating, but not enough unless the flow is a dribble.
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Submitted 545 days ago | by
cold_shower
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878f it is a faulty element a new heating can of the correct wattage can be ordered online via the link below.
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-18-Mira-Sport---post-1998 Answered 544 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: water will not stop runing even when power is off
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Submitted 561 days ago | by
buggy
Answered 557 days ago | Alastair
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Q: The shower goes on an off at regular intervals, every couple of seconds when starting the shower. The water is cold when this happens. Changing between medium and fast flow eventually resolves this. Can you help?
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Submitted 566 days ago | by
DC00
Answered 565 days ago | Alastair
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Q:
Hi,
I have a Mira Sport shower which recently has started to play up. When switching the shower on water flows for about 30 seconds and then the shower unit switches off as if i pressed the off button. It won't go on again till after 10 minutes.
I have been informed that the thermostat has gone. Can the thermostat be replaced or is it just worth getting a entire new shower unit.
p.s. i don't know the exact model of the shower unit :O(
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Submitted 576 days ago | by
Ish
A: When it is stopped check that there is a minimum of 230volts at the connector block in the shower, if not then the isolation switch has gone high resistance and needs relaced. If ower ok then it is the flow valve at fault and needs replaced, it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below but take note of the instructions re whether you also need the lo-flow neon and the switching assy. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-507-Flow-Valve-Assembly Answered 575 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: My Mira Sport 9.8 (post 1998) hums while operating, quite a bit louder than it used to. I checked the resistance across the solenoid and it's 3.6Kohms. Do you think that I should replace it?
Many thanks
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Submitted 579 days ago | by
Blue Jay
A: If the humming is annoying then yes replace it, however they can last a long time even when they are noisy. If and when you do need to replace it, replace the complete flow valve, if the solenoid is about to go then the flow valve will not be far behind and the solenoid comes as part of the flow valve. Answered 578 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: My shower stops operating after 3 mins & the low flow light is illuminated. I have cleaned the filter, but that has not made a difference. Could you please advise on the what to do next.
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Submitted 604 days ago | by
philpo
Answered 602 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Hi,
My shower is on its way out.
I've managed to fix it a couple of times already with help from spare parts from this site. But, this time, the switch doesn't latch on most attempts and so the shower keeps going off until eventually it finally catches.
Rather than fix it though, we've had it about 10 years so I'm interested to replace it with the new (post 2006) Mira Sport.
Please could you tell me if the screw holes and water pipe attachment will line up exactly on the new model to those of the old?
I'm not great with DIY, but if all the connections are in the same place, and there is no need to drill new holes, I will be okay to replace it.
Thank you.
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Submitted 662 days ago | by
Ant
Answered 661 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Low flow light stays on all the time in all settings
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Submitted 670 days ago | by
burty
A: If the shower is operating correctly other than this then the problem is likely to be the 3 pin microswitch that operates the light. If it is a real low flow situation then check that mains stopcock and any other valve in the feed to the shower are fully open and that the inlet filter is clean. If all these are ok and there has been no reduction in water mains supply pressure then a new flow valve is required. Any parts required can be ordered online by clicking on the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-18-Mira-Sport---post-1998 Answered 669 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: HAVE TRIED TO MATE THE NEWFLOW VALVE (1563-507) WITH THE ORIGINAL SWITCHING ASSEMBLY, THE MOUNTING IS DIFFERENT ON THE OLD FLOW VALVE IT USED 2 LOCATING NIPPLES AND ONE SCREW TO FIX TOGETHER,THE NEW FLOW VALVE APPEARS TO REQUIRE 3 SCREWS HAVE I ORDERED CORRECTLY ? OR WILL I NEED A NEW PLASTIC SWITCH ASSEMBLY BEARING IN MIND THERE ARE NO SCREW PLACES ON THE BACKPLATE. THE SHOWER IS 9KwSPORT ASSEMBLED J92B ASSEMBLED 02/03.
THANKS
GRAHAM
HAPPY TO ORDER SW ASSEMBLY IF IT WILL MATE.
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Submitted 714 days ago | by
GRAHAM
Answered 711 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Hi,
When the shower is running the temperature tends to vary, going from hot to cold and back again. Could this be the thermal switch or the heater starting to fail ?
Thanks
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Submitted 763 days ago | by
JayCee
A: Hi The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Answered 760 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: When my shower is turned on the water flows from the head as normal but it never heats up. Any idea what part is required?
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Submitted 802 days ago | by
T-Bob
Answered 801 days ago | The Showerdoc
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