|
Q: My shower has been making a buzzing sound when running. Just recently the temp has changed it could be on high and temp control dial just below halfway and its luke warm with not so good flow.where as before it was warm and descent flow.Do u think the water heater has gone? Or is it likely to be the flow valve?
|
|
|
Submitted 11 days ago | by
Anonymous, Unknown
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 11 days ago | Barrie |
|
|
Q: As I was turning the cold tap off in the bath tonight, water suddenly starting pouring from the bottom of our switched off Mira Sport shower unit (much more than just drips). (There is no direct connection between the bath tap and shower so maybe coincidence or maybe change in pressure triggered whatever the failure is?) Anyway what is most likely cause - flow valve assembly leaking?
|
|
|
Submitted 26 days ago | by
Bob, Pickering
A: You need to remove the cover, hopefully you have turned off all power to the shower already, to see where the problem lies. It may be the inlet clamp has split or something more. Answered 25 days ago | Barrie |
|
Q: Hello
My shower has a mind of it`s own ... it will work fine with hot water then the next time it is used it will be cold water and not warm up... Iv`e cleaned shower head and other things advised. help please . thx peter
|
|
|
Submitted 92 days ago | by
peterpep, Barry SWales
A: The things to check first are:
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
A rough check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve. Answered 91 days ago | Barrie |
|
|
Q: water runs very hot or very cold, no control over temperture
|
|
|
Submitted 95 days ago | by
yok, fife
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety devicewill turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow valve not allowing the correctamount of water into the shower. http://www.showerdoc.com/MIRA-1563-507-Mira-Flow-Valve-Assembly-1563-507
Answered 94 days ago | The Doc |
|
Q: The RCD on the main distribution board trips out as soon as the on/off button is pressed on the shower. The interior of the unit is completely dry, and there is no sign of any short circuit.
Is this likely to be a problem within the heater tank?
|
|
|
Submitted 98 days ago | by
seagull , TR 22
Answered 98 days ago | Barrie
|
|
|
Q: I have replaced the pull cord switch which was faulty, so the power light is coming and when I push the start button the shower will not work.
|
|
|
Submitted 102 days ago | by
whigy, banbridge
Answered 101 days ago | The Doc
|
|
Q: Dear Showerdoc
I need to replace my Mira Sport completely as the backplate has cracked and I realise that backplates are not sold separately. Given the recent new 2012 models of Mira Sport, what will be a compatible replacement that will fit my existing water and electrical connections without any modifications needed to these, please? (I don't mind if I need to drill some extra holes for mounting the unit.)
The MCB for the shower circuit is rated at 40 amps so the shower will be restricted to 9 kW. The water inlet previously supplied a much older Mira shower (>19 years old) and has a half inch tap connection with a nut just before the end of the pipework that screws fine directly onto the threaded end of the water inlet to the existing Mira Sport, even though the latter was designed for a compression fitting.
Also, when connecting up a replacement shower, will a fibre tap connection washer (half inch) be sufficient?
Regards
Keith
|
|
|
Submitted 102 days ago | by
Keith, Gloucestershire
A: Without knowing the exact position of your water and electric connections it is hard to be exactly sure. Mira indicate that the new Multi fit Sport will be a direct replacement for previous versions. A new fibre washer should sufice, but obviously this needs to be checked at installation. Answered 102 days ago | Barrie |
|
Q: Flushed tiolet last night and shower unit started to spray water from housing. Turned system off and looked this morning it appears that the water is leaking from flow valve assembly seal with inlet connector assembly. The back housing at this point has cracked and the clamp bracket.
Can it be possible to purchase the whole of the plastic back housing since this is not itemised as a spare in the parts diagram ?
|
|
|
Submitted 118 days ago | by
Anonymous, Sheffield
A: UnfortunatelyMira will not sell rear cases for any of their showers. Youmay end up having to change the shower, the easiest changeover would be one ofthe new Sports Answered 116 days ago | The doc |
|
Q: I have changed the flow valve, cleaned filters and checked water pressure however the low flow light is still on and i have to turn the heat dial to full to get any hot water/ lukewarm. what would you suggest next!!!
vicky
|
|
|
Submitted 141 days ago | by
vicky, dundee
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allowspower through to the elements. If these are OK then it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there aretwo, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter youshould have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to theelements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to theelements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 137 days ago | The Doc |
|
Q: Hi
our mira sport is dripping slowly from the base of the white plastic case (lowest point) taking the case off there seems to be water dripping from somewhere around the flow unit but I can;t easily trace where it is coming from - would it be best to disconnect the flow unit and renew the seals or can you recommend another idea to try and pin down the source of the leak please
I have replaced the TCO recently so perhaps dislodged something when I did this?
|
|
|
Submitted 143 days ago | by
Darrenw, Staffordshire
A: Changing the TCO shouldn’t have disturbed anything. I would suspect that it is the flow valve its self that isfaulty, the do sometimes leak. Answered 141 days ago | The doc |
|
|
Q: Shower goes hot and then cools down to luke warm, or stays very hot regardless of where you have the temperature set. Could this be cause by a faulty thermal trip?
|
|
|
Submitted 163 days ago | by
tosh, Fife
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
If all of these are OK then you probably need a new flow valve Sport Flow Valve Turn off water and power. It may be useful to take photos before and as you strip down the unit they can be invaluable when reassembling You will need a 'Torx' screwdriver with a T10 bit Cover the waste pipe unless you want to loose the screws Remove screws from 'U' clamp, switching assembly (at top of flow valve),the clip that holds flow valve and heating tank together and the screws at heating tank outlet pipe. Ease tank and valve forward and slightly right, pull the heating tank away from the valve some water will run out of the tank at this point. Allow the tank to hang on the wires strip off the wires from the existing flow valve and refit them to the new valve. Fit the new check valve (supplied) to the flow valve outlet (Large end in) Using the new 'O' rings (make sure they don’t fall off or become misplaced when fitting) fit the new flow valve make sure that it locates correctly with the heating tank clip and the locating pins at the top of the valve locate correctly with the switching assembly, as you push the whole assembly back into position ensure that the heating tank outlet pipe is in position and the inlet connector is in place. The above procedure is not technically difficult however three pairs of hands and the ability to levitate will help and for sure you will be glad when you see it all back in place! Once everything is back in place refit all the screws making sure that everything is located correctly and nothing is misaligned. Turn on water and examine for leaks switch on power then turn shower on at cold setting and run for 1min. Take care when doing this as shower is now live. Refit cover and test at different power settings. If every thing is OK have a shower you deserve it!!!!! PS If I have missed anything or you think of something that will make this job easier then please let me know and I’ll add it to the instructions. PPS The flow valve has recently changed it now needs the switching assembly replaced and a new neon at the same time, these instructions have not yes been up dated to take this in to account. Flow valve http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-507-Flow-Valve-Assembly Switching assembly http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-509-Switching-Assembly Neon http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-514-Low-Flow-Neon-Assembly Answered 163 days ago | The Doc |
|
Q: The mira sport shower cuts off after a few seconds.
Power light is on and there is no indication of a low flow. the shower switches off just as the water is getting warm. Holding the switch in keeps the water flowing and allows a the user to take a shower - one handed!
How do I repair this, what parts are required? Any video on youtube or elsewhere to show how?
|
|
|
Submitted 231 days ago | by
Anonymous, Scotland
Answered 230 days ago | Alastair
|
|
|
Q: when you push th on /off button to shut off the water continues to run for a couple of minutes
|
|
|
Submitted 233 days ago | by
bob the builder, Unknown
Answered 232 days ago | The doc
|
|
|
Q: my t.c.o keeps failing.installed a new one about a month ago and that has now failed
|
|
|
Submitted 235 days ago | by
mel, coventry
A: Check the shower hose is not kinked or collapsed internally and the head is clear. Check that incoming mains water stopcock and any isolation valve in feed to the azhower are fully open. Check with your supplier if there has been any reduction in water supply flow or pressure. Check that gauze filter in inlet to solenoid valve is clear. If all above are ok then it is the flow valve at fault , repair kit can be ordered online by clicking on the link below http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-507-Mira-Flow-Valve-Assembly-1563-507 Answered 235 days ago | Alastair |
|
Q: The red light on the pull cord is illuminated but there is no power light on the shower unit itself.
When I press the start button on the shower unit the power light on the pull cord switch goes out.
Is this likely to be a problem with the pullcord switch. or something internal within the shower unit itself.
Cliff
|
|
|
Submitted 243 days ago | by
Cliff, Gloucester
A: Almost certainly the pull cord switch has gone high resistence and needs replaced. Answered 242 days ago | Alastair |
|
Q: how to stop squealing noise from shower, when temperature is turned up or down it stops. It squeals when dial set for normal shower temperature.
Regards
G Holland
|
|
|
Submitted 261 days ago | by
geoff, sheffield
Answered 256 days ago | The Doc
|
|
|
Q: i need to fit a new neon power on assembly to my shower,is there any particular way the two wires have to be connected?
|
|
|
Submitted 274 days ago | by
Anonymous, cornwall
A: It doesnt matter which way the wire are connected as it will still work. Answered 273 days ago | LC |
|
Q: Have a sport 9.0kw which makes a high pitch squealing noise just at the temperature I need to use it. If I turn the flow/temp up or down a little it stops.
Also have a sport 8.5kw that once switched on, leaks from the little moving actuator arms on the flow valve assembly
|
|
|
Submitted 276 days ago | by
Chris, Falmouth, Cornwall
A: The noisy flow valve is either the pressure is too high for the valve or the valve is worn if the pressure is not the problem a new flow valve should resolve the problem. With the other leaking valve it also is just a case of replacing the valve, as it is a sealed unit there are no spares for it. Answered 275 days ago | The |Doc |
|
Q: Hello,
Our mira sport shower has stopped working in the last couple of days:
The pull cord is on and the red light on the pull cord is illuminated. The power light on the shower looks dimmer than normal.
When I press the start button on the shower nothing happens (no noises suggesting anything is trying to work) and the power light on the shower goes out - also the power light on the pull cord also goes out.
Any suggestions as to what has failed would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Tim
|
|
|
Submitted 306 days ago | by
wurzel_shower, Somerset
Answered 305 days ago | The Doc
|
|
Q: water will not switch off
when switch pressed
|
|
|
Submitted 324 days ago | by
joe, wishaw
Answered 324 days ago | The Doc
|
|
|
Q: Hi my Mira sports shower stops water flow mid way through a shower and the flow light iluminates. leave it a few hours then the same happens again.
|
|
|
Submitted 331 days ago | by
Paul, Birmingham
Answered 331 days ago | The Doc
|
|
|
Q: Will fitting a new sealing ring solve the problem?
|
|
|
Submitted 344 days ago | by
paul., wakefield
A: Very unusual place for this to leak, so yes a new seal may help, however it is more likely that the flow valve is not entering the heating tank perfectly squarely and it is this that is causing the leak. Answered 340 days ago | The Doc |
|
Q: Hello,
I have the Mira Sport post 2006, which keeps dripping, almost to the point of running, after you switch it off. Would buying a seal kit sort the problem out?
Thanks.
|
|
|
Submitted 383 days ago | by
KenW, Boston
Answered 382 days ago | The doc
|
|
Q: My Mira Sport 9.0 has just started giving only cold water unless I turn it up to max heat on high when I get very hot water. As soon as I move it down to a lower temperature it turns to just cold water again.
When it first started happening I turned it off and then back on and it worked fine until it was switched off. Today it is just cold water as described above.
So you think this is likely to be the TCO or the heating tank (element) or something else please??
|
|
|
Submitted 388 days ago | by
vince, Worcestershire
A: If you have any heat at all then it is not the TCO no heat then check the TCO. I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs If the TCO is OK then check the elements. It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester If they elements are OK then you are probably going to need a new flow valve Answered 388 days ago | The Doc |
|
|
Q: My 2 yr old Mira sport shower low flow light has come on and has stopped working. It previously did this intermittently but seems to have completely died now. Any clues??
|
|
|
Submitted 423 days ago | by
nigford, Rushden
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
3 There is a filter in the inlet connection make sure that it is clean and clear
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally.
If all of these are OK then it pretty much must be the flow valve .
I guess the only other thing you could check is with your water authority to make sure you have a supply with a minimum of 1bar pressure
Answered 422 days ago | The Doc |
|
Q: The on/off button of our Mira Sport shower has broken, the front button has broken away from the section that operates the internal shower switch. I have tried to repair it again (it has broken before) using superglue (as I did before successfully) but the glue has sealed the plunger that passes through the front cover thus making it unusable!
I have looked at the parts details on your website (post 2006) and note that the cover part number is 1563.511 when the part number on ours is 1563.221 and 1563.226. Will 1563.511 suit our shower and will it come complete with the switch assembly please as I would like to be assured of this before placing my order.
|
|
|
Submitted 443 days ago | by
Colin, Bristol
Answered 442 days ago | Alastair
|
|
|
Q: shower goes hot cold hot cold on high setting what would cause this could it be the thermal switch?
|
|
|
Submitted 462 days ago | by
kitch, nottinghamshire
Answered 461 days ago | Alastair
|
|
|
Q: My power light is on but no water coming out any ideas?
|
|
|
Submitted 466 days ago | by
markmc6, Loanhead
Answered 465 days ago | The Doc
|
|
Q: HI
we got a mira sport shower installed january 2008.
water stops during having shower. Wont go back on. Power light on.
At first if you left shower off and then tried it again it would work perfectly normal but would stop after 3 or 4 minutes. Now not working. Power light is on. No water. All other water supply to house is normal. Still no water to shower even if all other water demand to other parts of house is off.
|
|
|
Submitted 469 days ago | by
peter, Dalkeith
Answered 469 days ago | Alastair
|
|
Q: Hi, I have a Mira Sport which about 6 months ago started showing symptoms of cycling from hot to cold only when on HIGH setting. Low Flow warning light does NOT come on.
From about a month ago, it now shows same symptoms on the MEDIUM setting also.
When it starts to heat the water in the cycle, the bathroom light dims briefly !
I live in a soft water area.
Is this an overly sensitive thermal cut out ? Could replacing this resolve the issue or could it be anything else (can replace at same time) ?
I did see the following on your site :-
http://www.mirashowers.com/support/faultdiagnosis.htm?category=Electric%20Showers&model=Mira%20Sport%207.5kW,%209.0kW,%209.8%20kW
ie. "Shower cycles from hot to cold. Power/Back Light - On. Low Flow warning light - Off. Heater Setting - Medium/High."
.... but my shower used to be ok at max heat, then started showing symptoms at HIGH setting, and now recently exhibits the symptoms at MEDIUM also.
Thanks for any reply.
|
|
|
Submitted 472 days ago | by
Richard, Livingston
Answered 470 days ago | Alastair
|
|
|
Q: turn on and pressure light flashes on and off, the flow valve makes a buzzin noise every time light fashes. tap the flow falve and it stops????
|
|
|
Submitted 486 days ago | by
darren, poulton le fylde
Answered 485 days ago | The Doc
|
|
Q: any assistance on installing a mira sport 7.5kw electric shower.
this unit will replace an existing mira shower , the pipework is inplace.
|
|
|
Submitted 499 days ago | by
gilly, nottinghamshire
A: If it is replacing a similar style of Sport then turn off water and either remove fuse or switch off circuit breaker then simply disconnecy water and electrics fit new shower and reconnect. If it is replacing an earlier model then alteration to pipework and possibly electrics may be required. Answered 498 days ago | Alastair |
|
Q: Mira Sport post 2006, low flow but water "IS" heating up so can just about have a shower if have the smallest spray on (not brill though!). Not enough of flow for larger spray.
Pressure in other taps in bathroom is fine (sink, bath, bidet & toilet) - all these are in an extention I built about 10 years ago.
Look forward to hearing from someone
Thanks
|
|
|
Submitted 499 days ago | by
Gill, mid wales
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878
If it is a faulty heating element the appropriate wattage heating can can be ordered onlie via the link below as can a microswitch if that is the fault. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-19-Mira-Sport---post-2006 Answered 498 days ago | Alastair |
|
Q: Hope u can help: -
Question 1:
Mira Sport post 2006, low flow but water is heating up so can just about have a shower if have the smallest spray on (not brill though!). Not enough of flow for larger spray.
Pressure in other taps in bathroom is fine (sink, bath, bidet & toilet) - all these are in an extention I built about 10 years ago.
I can't remember whether a stand alone external feed was done for that shower, as I do remember that pressure wasn't brill in our village - but that doesn't fit with pressure in the other taps!!
Question 2:
Also the on/off button doesn't work - when take the front cover off, black button work no probs - just the white button on front feels like it should have some form of spring on it as very hard moving in and out and switch the black button on & off.
Hope you can advise
Have read other messages answer
Any
|
|
|
Submitted 503 days ago | by
Gill - yes I am female trying to do DIY!
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester From what you say it sounds like the button is just sticking in the case, can you make sure that there is no soap residue round about it, causing it to stick, can you lubricate it in some way? Answered 501 days ago | The Doc |
|
Q: The plastic START/STOP push button has 'popped out' and has been lost. Can a replacement part be obtained for this?
Thank you.
|
|
|
Submitted 503 days ago | by
richard, Torfaen, Wales
Answered 501 days ago | Alastair
|
|
Q: Hi, my shower is roughly 7 years old.
Recently to heat the water from the shower I have had to turn the heating dial up a little higher every few days but the waether has been a little extreme.
My wife had a shower this morning with no issue. My turn came and the orange neon overheat light came on and stayed on, cold water flows but no heat. The pressure in the whole house hasnt changed and no other taps, dishwashers, washing machnes, hoses were running.
Is it the TCO i need to replace, specifically the MIRA-416.41 Mira Thermal Switch - 416.41 ??
Cheers
|
|
|
Submitted 505 days ago | by
jkevind, north wales
A: If you have any sort of heat at all then your TCO isn’t faulty The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve to the shower is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
3 Then check that the inlet filter on the shower is clean. If all these are OK then I think you could have a faulty flow valve. Answered 505 days ago | The Doc |
|
|
Q: Can I uprate my 7.5kW heater tank to a 10.8kW heater tank without replacing any other parts. I have already improved my house wiring to take the higher currents. Does the tank come with new O rings and instructions?
|
|
|
Submitted 507 days ago | by
mick, Malvern, Worcs UK
A: I am afraid that they are completely different internally. Answered 505 days ago | The Doc |
|
Q: Hi, yesterday morning the low flow light came on and the shower didn't work. Then later in the day when I tried again the water flowed cold but wouldn't stop when I turned it off and isolated the electricity supply, had to turn water off
Any suggestetions?
|
|
|
Submitted 520 days ago | by
Martin, Doncaster
Answered 520 days ago | Anonymous
|
|
|
Q: what part has failed if the water starts of warm then gets over hot then just runs cold.
|
|
|
Submitted 521 days ago | by
dickie, worthing
A: Check that the hose is not kinked or collapsed internally and the head is clear. Check that the water mains stopcock and any isolation valve in the feed to the shower are fully open. Check that inlet filter is clear. Check there has not been any reduction in flow/pressure of mains supply. If all above are ok then it is likely to be the flow valve at fault, a replacement can be ordered online by clicking on the link below but remember to check whether you also need a low flow neon and a switching assy. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-507-Flow-Valve-Assembly Answered 520 days ago | Alastair |
|
Q: Do you stock or know where I can buy the back of a Mira Sport - post 2006 (the part that connects to the wall)
Part number 415.34
Ragards David
|
|
|
Submitted 535 days ago | by
David, Newcastle
A: For some reason Mira will not sell back boxes Answered 532 days ago | The Doc |
|
Q: Hi Doc,
I've got a Mira Sport (post 2006) with the 9.8kW heater tank. A few days ago I wasn't getting any water through (power was still OK). Followed your advice on here, order a new solenoid coil (which came very quickly thank you) and replaced it.
So, I'm getting water through now, but it's not heating on any of the settings and the low flow light is always on (when the water is flowing).
I've checked the filter, the TCO and the elements on the heater tank (getting 12.5 - 12.6 ohms) so I think they're all OK.
The shower has been working fine for the last 3 years and the pressure in the other taps around the house doesn't seem to have dropped so I think the supply is OK.
Just wondered if you could suggest anything else to try (new flow valve maybe?)
Thanks,
Steve
|
|
|
Submitted 551 days ago | by
SteveR
A: I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out when the solenoid failed it is possible that it took the TCO with it.
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs Answered 550 days ago | The Doc |
|
|
Q: when I was showering the main electricty safety switch tripped, when I put it back on the water in the shower was cold. I turned the temperature setting to the maximum but the temperature of the water is still just warm and the water flow is low. The thermal switch has been changed but it made no difference. Can you help?
|
|
|
Submitted 561 days ago | by
tara
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878
If it is an element a replacement heating can of the correct power can be ordered online by clicking on the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-19-Mira-Sport---post-2006 Answered 557 days ago | Alastair |
|
|
Q: hi im having problem with my shower. it cuts out after 2 mins or so then i have to de press on/off button then i notice the power light flickers until it becomes fully illuminated then i can power it back on again then it cuts out again but much sooner. what could be wrong? any help wouldbe a great help
|
|
|
Submitted 575 days ago | by
atlis
A: When it cuts out check that there is a minimum of 230volts at the connector block in the shower, if not then the isolation switch has gone high resistance and needs relaced. If the power is ok then it is the flow valve at fault and requires to be replaced, it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-507-Flow-Valve-Assembly Answered 574 days ago | Alastair |
|
|
Q: When I turn my shower on it takes it quite a while to get started. It starts then stops quite a few times before it eventually gets going properly. What would be the problem with it?
|
|
|
Submitted 606 days ago | by
Denis
Answered 606 days ago | Alastair
|
|
|
Q: flow valve has split open its fitted in a house on a hill with not a great water pressure is about 5 years old
|
|
|
Submitted 616 days ago | by
skippy
Answered 613 days ago | Alastair
|
|
|
Q: the shower is just over a year old,switches on ok,after two or three minutes the water stops and the low pressure light comes on, if you dont touch anything it comes back on itself, then it will cut out again,and so on.is it the solonoid or what
|
|
|
Submitted 655 days ago | by
vinny
Answered 654 days ago | Alastair
|
|
Q: I have a Mira Sport post 2006 Electric Shower and it is not heating the water, everything else is working fine. I think i need a new heater tank would i be correct in saying this? If so can i replace the damaged one? please let me know..
Regards
James
|
|
|
Submitted 759 days ago | by
ShowerJames
A: Hi James
If there is no heat at all then it is probably a faulty TCO.
I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs
If there is some heat then it could be that one of the elements in the heating tank has failed. (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch, or on units with a PCB it could be a faulty relay.
If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.
Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester
Answered 759 days ago | The Doc |
|