Q: Shower has a standby light, overheat light and low pressure. high medium and low press buttons, thermostat control knob and a stop button in that order from top to bottom.
PROBLEM: When the shower is turned on the overheat light comes straight on and there is no hot water at all. Pressing high medium and low buttons makes no difference Is this a thermal switch fault or something else. The manual says possible failure of micro switch or thermal switch. No location of micro switch in manual
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Submitted 58 days ago | by
peteram, nottingham
A: I think that the first thing you need to check is theThermal Switch (TCO)
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the twoterminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at bothconnections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heatsit cuts the power off to the elements until the water cools, this can take upto 15mins) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs If you find it is the TCO that is faulty, see below. After fitting a new TCO When fitting a new TCO listen to the shower, after it hascompleted its first on/off cycle, if when it is switched off you hear itcontinuing to heat (Noise like a kettle starting to boil) this will mean thatthere is a relay on the PCB that is stuck in the on position, this is keepingan element energised and this is probably what caused the original TCO to fail. If this is the case replace the faulty switch or relay andmake sure that you switch the shower off at the isolating switch when theshower is not in use because this may cause the new TCO to fail. Answered 57 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: I have a small constant water drip coming from the shower head after the shower has been switched off which part do you think could be at fault ?
Thanks
Paul
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Submitted 74 days ago | by
Anonymous, Swansea
Answered 73 days ago | The Doc
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Q: I replaced the TCO (no continuity) just over 2 years ago and the same fault has now appeared. The top of the tank and the bottom of the TCO have some green copper rust and the bottom of the TCO is damaged. Could I rub a little petroleum jelly on the bottom to help protect it? I think condensation on the metal parts would be enough to explain the water. I will order a new TCO from you today and hopefully you might have an idea how to stop this happening again. Thanks, C
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Submitted 100 days ago | by
clem, Ireland
A: I would put anything on the top of the tank, just make surethat it is clean and remember not to touch the base of the new TCO After fitting the new TCO When fitting a new TCO listen to the shower, after it hascompleted its first on/off cycle, if when it is switched off you hear itcontinuing to heat (Noise like a kettle starting to boil) this will mean thatthere is a switch or a relay that is stuck in the on position, this is keepingan element energised and this is probably what caused the original TCO to fail. If this is the case replace the faulty switch or relay andmake sure that you switch the shower off at the isolating switch when theshower is not in use until you replace the switch/relay because this may causethe new TCO to fail. Answered 100 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Our Mira advance shower - its 8 years old - suddenly cuts out whilst in use sometimes. all lights on shower unit go out - shower works again after about 5 mins - any ideas?
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Submitted 142 days ago | by
Anonymous, United Kingdom
A: It could be a faulty relay boardor faulty flow valve there is no way to know for sure. However our experience is, ifthe service light comes on then it’s most likely to be a faulty relay board. No lights at all then it’s probablythe relay board If it’s low pressure light is onthen it could be a faulty the flow valve or relay board. If you are unsure start with therelay board, this is the more common fault. On a few occasions you may needboth, if you need to be certain then order both! No lights at all then you mayhave a faulty transformer also check that you actually have a power supply tothe shower. To Check the transformer, thereis a white plug at the top of the relay board, the blue and red wires are mainsand should have 240v the black wires are from the transformer and should have12v AC If the transformer is OK onceagain, start with the relay board. Fitting Board and valve. Obviously turn the power andwater off . Changing the board is fairlystraight forward just take notes and photos of where all the cables and plugsgo as you dismantle then it should be easy to reverse the procedure. To change the flow valve youhave to remove the ‘U’ clamp on the inlet and the screw at the foot of theheating tank there is then a small tab to the right of the heating tank this isa clip you need to pull this forward to release the hook you may need to use ascrewdriver or pliers to flick it forward. The tank and valve should thenpull forward enough to be able to separate them, then remove the plug from the circuit board. Fit the two new ‘O’ ringssupplied and then push the tank and valve together offer the assembly back upand into place, refit the ‘U’ clamp and the screw at the bottom of the tank andmake sure that the hook clippie thing is firmly pushed back into place. Turn on water and test alsocheck the earth wire that runs across the top of the flow valve is clear of thepurge button and remember to press the purge button for 15secs to allow theheating tank to refill. Answered 141 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: I have a Mira Sport Max which is now missing the white plastic insert top left (marked "B" (as are many other things) in the exploded diagram in your spares section). I'm completely befuddled as to how it's disappeared, but it has, and I'm keen to find a replacement quickly for fear of pouring water down the inside. Nobody seems to list it specifically as a spare, but perhaps you can source one?
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Submitted 144 days ago | by
Richard, Aylesbury
Answered 142 days ago | The doc
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Q: The shower water suddenly stopped. Power light is on. Low flow light is on unless set to Low. Tried cleaning filter, - no joy!
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Submitted 178 days ago | by
Eric, Lupton
A: It needs a new flow valve Sport Flow Valve Turn off water and power. It may be useful to take photos before and as you strip down the unit they can be invaluable when reassembling You will need a 'Torx' screwdriver with a T10 bit Cover the waste pipe unless you want to loose the screws Remove screws from 'U' clamp, switching assembly (at top of flow valve),the clip that holds flow valve and heating tank together and the screws at heating tank outlet pipe. Ease tank and valve forward and slightly right, pull the heating tank away from the valve some water will run out of the tank at this point. Allow the tank to hang on the wires strip off the wires from the existing flow valve and refit them to the new valve. Fit the new check valve (supplied) to the flow valve outlet (Large end in) Using the new 'O' rings (make sure they don’t fall off or become misplaced when fitting) fit the new flow valve make sure that it locates correctly with the heating tank clip and the locating pins at the top of the valve locate correctly with the switching assembly, as you push the whole assembly back into position ensure that the heating tank outlet pipe is in position and the inlet connector is in place. The above procedure is not technically difficult however three pairs of hands and the ability to levitate will help and for sure you will be glad when you see it all back in place! Once everything is back in place refit all the screws making sure that everything is located correctly and nothing is misaligned. Turn on water and examine for leaks switch on power then turn shower on at cold setting and run for 1min. Take care when doing this as shower is now live. Refit cover and test at different power settings. If every thing is OK have a shower you deserve it!!!!! PS If I have missed anything or you think of something that will make this job easier then please let me know and I’ll add it to the instructions. PPS The flow valve has recently changed it now needs the switching assembly replaced and a new neon at the same time, these instructions have not yes been up dated to take this in to account. Flow valve http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-507-Flow-Valve-Assembly Switching assembly http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-509-Switching-Assembly Neon http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-514-Low-Flow-Neon-Assembly Answered 172 days ago | The doc |
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Q: no hot water on start up. if i turn it on full and press high-med-low-med-high after a few second its starts to power out hot water and when turned down runs fine ... please help.
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Submitted 184 days ago | by
dazz, manchester
A: What happens if you turn it on to high and just leave it for a minute? Also make sure that the main valve coming into the house and the valve on line to the shower are both fully open. Answered 182 days ago | The doc |
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Q: hi our shower runs hot then cold then hot and so on any ideas
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Submitted 198 days ago | by
not had a shower , gloucester
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
If all the above are OK then you probably need a new flow valve. http://www.showerdoc.com/MIRA-1563-540-Mira-Flow-Valve---Inlet-Assembly-1563-540 Answered 197 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: hi, i have a mira sport 9kw which runs hot then cold and so on, can go cold and heat up again during use several times, cheers andy
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Submitted 341 days ago | by
andy, essex
A: This is almost certainly due to a lack of flow. Check thatb shower hose is not blocked or collapsed internally and the head is clear. Check incoming water mains stopcock and any isolation valve in supplt to shower are fully open. Check that filter in inlet connector is clear. Check with your supplier that there has not been a reduction in supply flow or pressure. If all above are ok then it is likely to be the flow valve at fault , replacement can be ordered online by clicking on the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-507-Mira-Flow-Valve-Assembly-1563-507 Answered 339 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: Hi,
I have a Mira Max Sport shower and for some reason, after a random time the shower stops, the shower goes off and the fuse goes off as well. I can switch the fuse on back after maybe 5 min.
I have put on a new fuse as I thought the fuse present was not strong enough but still no success.
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Submitted 416 days ago | by
Narcisse, Dagenham
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester If it is the solenoid then you are best just to fit a complete flow valve with this shower, as the solenoid comes as part of the flow valve Answered 416 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: I can only get hot water with contol on hot and flow set at very low.
The flow i used to have it set on does not produce hot water. I suspect it may be the heater tank but not confident enough to order one in case I have misdiagnosed.
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Submitted 419 days ago | by
Col, Lancs/cumbria
A: I also suspect it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 417 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: hi my shower is not coming on the power light at celing switch is on but when I push the shower button the celling light goes out but nothing happens its a mairia sports shower
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Submitted 421 days ago | by
george, ballycastle bt54 6qb Ireland
A: The ceiling switch is faulty it needs replaced. Answered 421 days ago | The doc |
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Q: I have the above shower and the issue is that on 'High' it's way too hot even on the lowest setting. There is plenty of flow it seems. On 'Medium' it's only hot enough if turned right up, then the flow is pathetic. There is no 'in-between' setting.
It's been getting worse for a while and this seems to be worse in summer when the water pressure feels lower. It's obviously capable of producing lots of hot water but I can't get it to produce a satisfactory shower.
Any ideas? Thanks.
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Submitted 431 days ago | by
Stevo, Totnes
Answered 431 days ago | Alastair
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Q: We have had our Mira shower for 3 years and now the water will not heat at all.low flow light is not on. I have 243 volts and 159 volts on either side of TCO. Any ideas?
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Submitted 448 days ago | by
Rob, Bournemouth
Answered 448 days ago | Alastair
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Q: spraying water insideso that it runs out under round the outlet is under preasure - also resulted in electric shock to person turning it on. any ideas what has failed?
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Submitted 451 days ago | by
broody, bedford
A: This sounds dangerous unless you feel you know what you are doing then this may be best left to a professional. However the first thing you need to do is switch off the power remove the cover and try to establish where it is leaking from and replace this part. Answered 450 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: The water flow stops after a few seconds and the water does not heat
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Submitted 475 days ago | by
guy, canterbury
Answered 471 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Mira sports shower, stops after a random period of time for no apparent reason, water pressure ok, mains still there but no water out of the head any more. Any ideas?
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Submitted 523 days ago | by
paul, Cornwall (but stuck in china at th
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 522 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Our shower only
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Submitted 527 days ago | by
nbj bvhn , Swansea
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 526 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Why does the water flow greatly reduce when the temperature dial is turned past the half-way mark?. It seems to struggle to flow and stops completely at just over half way. It used to work perfectly at this mark. Could it be a problem with the filter?
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Submitted 538 days ago | by
tallpaul, Cornwall
A: This could be a few things. It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester If the elements are OK The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allows power through to the elements
If all the above are OK then you will need a new flow valve
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/MIRA-1563-540-Flow-Valve---Inlet-Assembly Answered 536 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: When I press the start button the shower works only for a second or two before cutting out. However, if I keep pressing the button the shower works properly.
Please can you advise?
Thank you
George
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Submitted 597 days ago | by
George
Answered 595 days ago | t
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Q: My Mira Sport Thermostatic shower no longer maintains temperature
and cycles between hot & cold whatever the setting. Any ideas please as to the cause & remedy.
Thank You.
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Submitted 658 days ago | by
Phil
Answered 655 days ago | Alastair
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Q: I have followed the advice and determined that the Thermal Cutoff Switch is faulty. However, on the Mira Sport Thermostatic Electric Shower it is very difficult to access as the top of the casing sticks out over it. I cannot undo even the screws at the front so the back ones are unreachable. How much dismantling to I have to do to replace the switch?
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Submitted 669 days ago | by
Viper Bugloss
A: You need to release the screws (Not necessarily remove them) that hold the heating tank and flow valve in place this should allow the heating tank to pull forward enough to allow to get to the rear screws. Remember to isolate from the power before starting and although not necessary it is advisable to also turn off the water supply to the shower. George Answered 668 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My Mira shower only produced cold water last week, when turned on. All the power lights etc were on as normal. The next day it worked as normal but since then it has returned to only cold water. Is the thermostat one and is it worth repairing or get a new shower?
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Submitted 694 days ago | by
Stephen
Answered 693 days ago | Alastair
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Q: the swich is aok the prob is the plastic shaft in the plunger that opperates stop start is this componant re placable if so do you supply it regards mr a shepherdson.
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Submitted 714 days ago | by
shep
A: The button on the front cover alone is NOT available as a spare to date and the complete cover will need to be ordered - MIRA-1563.543. Answered 714 days ago | SD |
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Q: hi we have had a mira sport fitted for just over 2 years and this morning it worked fine but tonight we can not get any hot water at all it stone cold the low flow light does not come on and we have tried all the settings but no heat.
Any ideas?
thanks in advance
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Submitted 787 days ago | by
ian
A: I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) Answered 786 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Is it possible to purchase only the the stop/start button?
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Submitted 826 days ago | by
John
Answered 826 days ago | Showerdoc
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Q: mira thermostatic 9.8
It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878 Click on the link below, choose the manufacturer of the shower you have, scroll down the list of parts and select the part number you require. You can then purchase the items online or call the office on 0131 443 9917 pressing option # 1 for spares.
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Submitted 828 days ago | by
satch
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