Mira Sport Max

A: 

Itmay be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter,you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in thefailed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apartfrom helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checkingyou have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and lettingyou know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: 

A: 

Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve.

A: See other ticket.

A: First thing to check is the isolating switch for loose wires etc. and that you are getting power to the shower. If this is ok then you may need a new PCB.

A: There are two screws at the top and one at the bottom of the cover.

Itmay be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three inmost 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should havea reading of around 12>18 ohms.

Ifyou have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements,no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

Ifyou don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide onhow to use them for checking and testing the various parts of yourshower.

Apartfrom helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checkingyou have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting youknow much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Or

Itmay be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter,you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in thefailed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apartfrom helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checkingyou have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and lettingyou know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

If these prove to be ok then I would suspect the PCB.

A: Sounds like a PCB fault. But check you are getting power into the shower as it still may be a faulty pull switch.

A: 

 The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allowspower through to the elements

 

 

Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

 

 

If all the above are OK then Iwould fit a new  flow valve

A: 

I am not exactly sure about your readings either, however Iam pretty certain that a new flow valve will solve the problem.

 

 

A: 

I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

A: 

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allowspower through to the elements

 

 

Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

If all the above are Ok then you probably have flow valve which is notallowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/MIRA-1563-508-Mira-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-Kw-1563-508

A: Each shower must come off its own fuse and wiring etc.

A: 

It is held in by a Torx screw (T10) at the bottom and thenthe whole block should then just unclip

A: 

The temperature and flow rate are always (Nearly always!! and always in your type of shower) connected.

 

When you turn your shower on you have a 10.8kw element heating the water and this does not vary  the way you alter the temperature is by varying the amount of water that passes over the element, pass the water over the element slowly (a little water) and it gets very hot, pass it over quickly (a high flow rate) and it doesn’t have time to pick up much heat.

 

This explains why in the winter at the same setting as the summer the shower is not so hot because the temperature of the incoming water has changed.  

Also, the fuse on the shower circuit should be 45 amp.

If there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: The filter does get clogged, but shower is of the same supply as your drinking water so you should not get debris coming through too much I would hope. Also this filter should prevent any debris reaching the shower head.

 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

A: 

I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open/close the safety device that allows the power through to the elements.

Also check that your shower is connected to the water mains and you have a minimum of 1bar water pressure, although your pressure may normally be good it can often drop dramatically first thing in the morning when everyone is showering.

A: 

I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out


A faultyTCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top ofthe heating tank)

Thereforea good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have powerat only one.

(Thefunction of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to theelements until the water cools, this can take up to 15mins)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

 

After fitting a new TCO

 

When fitting a new TCO listen to the shower, after it hascompleted its first on/off cycle, if when it is switched off you hear itcontinuing to heat (Noise like a kettle starting to boil) this will mean thatthere is a switch or a relay that is stuck in the on position, this is keepingan element energised and this is probably what caused the original TCO to fail.

If this is the case replace the faulty switch or relay andmake sure that you switch the shower off at the isolating switch when theshower is not in use because this may cause the new TCO to fail.

 

 

 

A: 

Ifthere no lights it is almost certainly A PCB fault.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/MIRA-1563-510-Mira-Pcb-Assembly-1563-510 

http://www.showerdoc.com/mira-parent-21-mira-sport-max

A: 

 When you say you have replaced the valveassembly I presume that, that is the flow valve assembly?

 

Ifall the lights are going out then I presume that you are losing the powersupply, there fore it may be worth looking at the pullcord switch and checkthat there is no signs of overheating and that all the terminals are tight.

A: 

There are a few things that can cause this. First to checkis if the inlet filter is clear. If this is clear then either your flow valve oryour pcb are faulty. The only way to be sure is to replace first the flow valvethen if that does not cure the problem the pcb.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Mira-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-Kw-1563-508




http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-510-Mira-Pcb-Assembly-1563-510

A: 

The PRD just pushes into the bottom of the heating tank

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to  open / close the safety device that allowspower through to the elements

 

Then other two things to  look at is one of the elements failing on thesecond shower or perhaps one of the relays on the PCB has become faulty

 

 

A: 

First I would check the solenoid .....See below.

 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you havea multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failedstate.) (When it has stopped working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is notoperating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The videois intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checkingand testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are reallyuseful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fusesand letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of otherjobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

If you find that the solenoid is faulty then all you need doir replace it ......However!

 

Although there is a difference in the price the amount ofwork involved in replacing the solenoid is the same as replacing the flow valveand the solenoid is part of the flow valve I would always be tempted to replacethe complete flow valve rather than just the solenoid.

 

If the solenoid tests out OK and you are sure that it is notfaulty then you almost certainly need a new relay board.

 

 

A: 

Yes it is likely to be the latching switch.

 

This latching switch is used in a number of other showers but not all.

 

 

A: 

One of the usual reasons for a TCO failing Is a stuck switch, see below for how to check.

 

After fitting a new TCO

 

When fitting a new TCO listen to the shower, after it has completed its first on/off cycle, if when it is switched off you hear it continuing to heat (Noise like a kettle starting to boil) this will mean that there is a switch or a relay that is stuck in the on position, this is keeping an element energised and this is probably what caused the original TCO to fail.

If this is the case replace the faulty switch or relay and make sure that you switch the shower off at the isolating switch when the shower is not in use because this may cause the new TCO to fail.

I can’t think why you would have dampness on top of the heating tank unless there is a problem with the seal between the front cover and the rear case.

 

My thought would be to dry it out have a shower then remove the cover immediately after the shower to see if you can establish where the water is coming from.

 

A: 

If the power light went off at the pull cord then you need a new pull cord switch.

 

If it went off only at the shower then you will need a new relay PCB

A: 

Sorry for the delay in replying

This is the service pack that includes the red ball.

http://www.showerdoc.com/MIRA-935-57-Mira-Seal-Pack-C-w-Red-Prd-Ball-935-57

 

 

A: 

Sorry for the delay in replying

I suspect that you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out


A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements until the water cools, this can take up to 15mins)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

 

 

 

A: 

Sorry for the delay in replying

I suspect that you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out


A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements until the water cools, this can take up to 15mins)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

 

 

 

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: 

Can’t think of a spring can you send a photo of the spring?

 

A: 

If the shower is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

 

If there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

If both the TCO and elements are OK then you probably need a new relay board.

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to  open / close the safety device that allows power through to the elements.

If the valves are OK then it is most likely that you need a new flow valve.

A: 

It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have amultimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

If thereading from the elements are OK then you will need to replace the PCB

 

A: Almost certainly this is a blown element in the heating can , check this by measuring the resistence of the elements should be between 9 and 18ohms , if not a new heating can is required which can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-505-Mira-Heater-Tank-1-0-8-Kw-240-V-Ac-(9-9-Kw-230-V-Ac)-1563-505

A: The shower will not cause this , would suspect that the wiring is not of sufficient size , the Sport Max requires 10sqmil cable , not 6sqmil.

A: 

The Sport Max doesn’t have a switching assembly it uses a PCB I think you may be mistaken it for the flow valve, which if it is leaking would mean replacing the flow valve

That is assuming that this is your shower http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-21-Mira-Sport-Max  (This is where the ticket came from)

 

However from your description this could also be your shower. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-17-Mira-Sport---post-1996

If this is the case you will need a pilot valve

The Sport Max doesn’t have a switching assembly it uses a PCB I think you may be mistaken it for the flow valve, which if it is leaking would mean replacing the flow valve

That is assuming that this is your shower http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-21-Mira-Sport-Max  (This is where the ticket came from)

 

However from your description this could also be your shower. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-17-Mira-Sport---post-1996

If this is the case you will need a pilot valve

The pilot valve is a common fault

 

Turn off water and power

 

Put something in the waste just encase you drop a screw!

 

Remove cover

 

Remove splash plate at pipe entry

 

Remove 4 screws from 'U' clamps and 'U' clamps

 

Later models have “Torx” screws so you will need a “Torx” screwdriver with a T10 Bit.

 

Remove screw above letter 'A' on drawing

 

 

Ease pilot valve forward (if there is no movement on the pipe work you will have to disconnect it at the inlet connection take care to hold the brass body with pliers when slackening the nut)

 

Swap the wires over from one pilot valve to the other one by one

 

Then reassemble

 

Turn on water and allow the water to come thru unit before switching on power.

 

Easy init!!!!!

Link to Pilot valve

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-419-87-Pilot-Valve

A: 

Yes it is possible that the wires have been mixed up or that there is a relay on the PCB that is stuck in the on position and in either case it is keeping one of the elements energised and therefore constantly heating.

 

Until you resolve the problem switch the shower on and off using the pull cord switch, this should however be regarded as a very temporary solution. (continued use will burn out other components)

A: 

 The replacement is fairly straight forward.

Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantle most of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part out and the new part in.

 

This sounds more difficult than it actually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts wires etc. come from  and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos as you go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding.

 (you will need a Torx screwdriver with a T10 Bit)

 

A: 

It would be unusual for it to leak from there however if you are sure that is where it is leaking from it is just a case of replacing the can.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-505-Mira-Heater-Tank-1-0-8-Kw-240-V-Ac-(9-9-Kw-230-V-Ac)-1563-505

 

A: 

Sorry I can’t understand this because the thermal switch sits on top of the heating tank and shouldn’t in any way be connected to the water.

 

The only thing I can think of is that the top of the heating tank is in some way become perforated .....and that would be a first.

Could the water be coming from somewhere else and spraying on to the TCO ?

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower, if all the above are OK then you will need to replace the flow valve.

 http://showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Mira-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-Kw-1563-508

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower, if all the above are OK then you will need to replace the flow valve.

 http://showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Mira-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-Kw-1563-508

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

If the above are Ok then the other possibility is a faulty flow valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

The problem you have is that with the shower continually going hot and cold the thermal switch has probably been over worked and has now failed.

There fore if the above checks are OK I think you are going to need a new TCO and a flow valve.

See below for how to check the Thermal Switch.

I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

 

A: 

 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

If it is the solenoid my advice would be to replace the complete flow valve assembly

 

 

 

A: This is almost certainly the flow valve at fault, replacement can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Mira-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-Kw-1563-508

A: 

 I think your heating element has become faulty.

 

However I think you may have had a previous problem

First a relay on the PCB  sticking in the on position keeping one of the elements energised all the time.

This keeps the power on to the elements  the TCO (Safety Device ) keeps turning off the power to the elements, the TCO is designed for occasional use and because it is being used all the time it fails, cold water!

 

You replace the TCO, the relay is still sticking in the on position keeping one of the elements energised, this element fails (Because it is on all the time)and you now have a faulty heating can.

 

You may have heard the shower still heating a little after you switched it off

 

 

Not much help but it may explain what has happened

 

So I would guess at the moment you have a faulty PCB (Sticking relay)

A faulty TCO (Over use)

And a faulty heating can (Burnt out element)

 

Time for a new shower!

http://shower-warehouse.com/showers/electric-showers/mira/ZMIRA-1-1563-007-Mira-Sport-Max-Electric-Shower-10-8kW-(White-Chrome)

A: This is a fault in the flow valve, replacement can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Mira-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-Kw-1563-508

A: When it stops check there is a minimum of 230volts at the connector block in the unit, if not the isolation switch has gone high resistence and needs replacing.
If power ok the iy is likely to be the flow valve which can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Mira-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-Kw-1563-508

A: 

I presume when you say replaced you mean that you have fitted a new unit.

 

If as you say both elements are working then the only reason that the water would be cool, is that there is too much water passing through the unit therefore not allowing the water time to heat up.

 

This in turn would point to a faulty flow valve.

However if the unit is new then don’t touch it, you may invalidate the guarantee, give Mira a ring and they will send out an engineer.

 

 

A: 

I think it is more likely that you have the 10.8 Sport and not the Max as this has only been out for about 4 years

The 10.8 Sport

http://showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-15-Mira-Sport-10-8kW---post-1998

 

And if it is the 10.8 then the fault is likely to be the PCB assembly

http://showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-415-48-PCB-Assembly

 

 

 

A: 

 Could be one or two things however first..

 

You may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

 

Then check that the actuators on the flow valve are pressing against the switches on the switching assembly (It is just possible that they are misaligned)

 

A: 

Yes it sounds like a faulty flow valve, however the Sport Max has a 2 year guarantee so I would get in touch with Mira.

A: It is going to need a new flow valve.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-kW

A: 

I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

 

A: 

You probably need a Torx screwdriver with a T10 bit.

No problem with the terminal block to my knowledge

A: 

Hi

If the Thermal switch was faulty you would have no heat at all.

It is more likely that you have a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: 

I think it is needing a new flow valve assembly.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-kW

A: 

It makes more sense to replace complete flow valve .

If the coil has gone then the flow valve will not last much longer and the valve comes complete with a new coil and switch.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-kW

Sport Flow Valve

Turn off water and power.

It may be useful to take photos before and as you strip down the unit they can be invaluable when reassembling

You will need a 'Torx' screwdriver with a T10 bit

Cover the waste pipe unless you want to loose the screws

Remove screws from 'U' clamp, switching assembly (at top of flow valve),the clip that holds flow valve and heating tank together and the screws at heating tank outlet pipe.

Ease tank and valve forward and slightly right, pull the heating tank away from the valve some water will run out of the tank at this point.

Allow the tank to hang on the wires strip off the wires from the existing flow valve and refit them to the new valve.

Fit the new check valve (supplied) to the flow valve outlet (Large end in)

Using the new 'O' rings (make sure they don’t fall off or become misplaced when fitting) fit the new flow valve make sure that it locates correctly with the heating tank clip and the locating pins at the top of the valve locate correctly with the switching assembly, as you push the whole assembly back into position ensure that the heating tank outlet pipe is in position and the inlet connector is in place.

The above procedure is not technically difficult however three pairs of hands and the ability to levitate will help and for sure you will be glad when you see it all back in place!

Once everything is back in place refit all the screws making sure that everything is located correctly and nothing is misaligned.

Turn on water and examine for leaks switch on power then turn shower on at cold setting and run for 1min. Take care when doing this as shower is now live.

Refit cover and test at different power settings.

If every thing is OK have a shower you deserve it!!!!!

A: 

Hi

You have a faulty pull cord switch, it needs replaced.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-installation/electrical-products/ELWBG002-45-Amp-Ceiling-Switch

A: 

The fuse on the shower circuit should be 45 amp, I think the 60amp fuse you mention will be the main fuse

A: This is a fault with the flow valve which needs to be replaced, it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-kW

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

If all of these are OK then you need a new flow valve

Here is the Link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/electric-showers/MIRA-1563-508-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-kW

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it.

Also check that the shower is connected to the water mains and that the mains pressure is at least 1bar.

If all the above are OK then you may need a new flow valve.

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-508-Flow-Valve-Assembly-10-8-kW

A: It sounds like your TCO ( Thermal Cut Out ) has gone faulty and that means you would only get cold water coming through the shower.

In some cases it can be just the TCO that has failed but in other cases you could have a problem with lack of water pressure or a fault with the flow valve causing the shower to keep overheating and taking out the TCO.

The part number reqiured is 416.41 in the link provided - http://www.showerdoc.com/MIRA-416-41-Thermal-Switch?ss=416-41