Q: MIRA Sprint 2 9.5kW
Bought from you and changed Latching Switch last week after that became faulty which fixed initial fault. However, earlier today main house fuse tripped when shower switched back on after some minutes of use. User reported noise at point of switching on and fuse tripping. On resetting house power, no hot water but full cold water flowing and no other indicators/noises. TCO passes the continuity test.
Mention of relays and flow valves in other Q&As but rather suspect the heating elements have blown. Would you advise further testing and/or probable diagnosis?
Many thanks for an overall excellent service!
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Submitted 12 days ago | by
Kevin, Leicestershire
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 11 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: shower only working on one heat setting
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Submitted 52 days ago | by
chasbaby, Hereford
A: It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester If the elements areOK then it is likely to be a faulty flow valve Answered 51 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Mira Sprint 9.5KW shower unit
Have you replacement Banck panel the Mira inlet Clamp has broken off from its panel
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Submitted 143 days ago | by
rav, west yorkshire
A: Unfortunately for some reason Mira will not sell the rear casesfor any of their showers. Answered 141 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: The on/off switch on my shower is turning the shower on for just a few seconds then going off. Do you think i require a new latching switch? Also would it be easy to fit?
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Submitted 145 days ago | by
Julie, Plymouth
A: If you hold the switch in and it stays on then you need anew latching switch if it still cuts out then you need a new flow valve. Answered 142 days ago | The doc |
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Q: Shower pushes out sufficient cold water, but will not give anything else, regardless of settings. The low pressure light is not illuminated.
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Submitted 155 days ago | by
Bill, Nr Bridgnorth, south Shropshire
A: I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faultyTCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top ofthe heating tank)
Thereforea good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have powerat only one.
(Thefunction of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to theelements until the water cools, this can take up to 15mins) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs After fitting a new TCO When fitting a new TCO listen to the shower, after it hascompleted its first on/off cycle, if when it is switched off you hear itcontinuing to heat (Noise like a kettle starting to boil) this will mean thatthere is a switch or a relay that is stuck in the on position, this is keepingan element energised and this is probably what caused the original TCO to fail. If this is the case replace the faulty switch or relay andmake sure that you switch the shower off at the isolating switch when theshower is not in use because this may cause the new TCO to fail. Answered 155 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: how to replace a latching switch and solenoid coil.
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Submitted 173 days ago | by
gingerman, swansea
Answered 172 days ago | Alastair
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Q: switches off and low pressure light comes on the swithes back on again mains pressure ok
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Submitted 191 days ago | by
windy, Derby
Answered 191 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Cannot turn shower to cold on full flow.
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Submitted 228 days ago | by
wendy, stowmarket
A: I am not sure I understand If you have the power selector set to ●it should run cold if you mean thay when you have the selector set to ƖƖ thd the temperature cold then you should still have some heat however if you mean that at this setting the shower is too hot then. The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
If all these are OK then you probably need a new flow valve. http://www.showerdoc.com/MIRA-1563-507-Mira-Flow-Valve-Assembly-1563-507 Answered 228 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My Mira sprint 8.5kw is leaking from the inlet, because the plastic on the shower housing and also the retainer is cracked, are you able to supply a complete rear body section? as I notice that it seems to be the only part of the shower which does not have a number.
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Submitted 233 days ago | by
John, Guernsey
A: You are correct, for some reason (unknown to us) Mira will not supply rear cases for any of their showers Answered 232 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: The push button switch doesn't turn the shower off. Having to resort to relying on the pull cord in the bathroom. I guess I need a new push button. How easy is it to fit?
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Submitted 262 days ago | by
mearso, Wales
A: It can be a bit tricky to get the old switch out There two bits at either end of the switch that need pressed in to get the switch to come out You will understand when you see the new switch. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-416-48-Mira-Latching-Switch-416-48 I am presuming that the pull cord is switching the shower off no problem every time? Because if it is not then you may be needing a complete new flow valve. Answered 262 days ago | The doc |
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Q: My mir a sprint shower keeps running for a few minutes after I have turned it off even if I turn the power off
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Submitted 278 days ago | by
Shamus, Nantwich
A: It is going to need a new flow valve Sprint Flow Valve Turn off water and power. It may be useful to take photos before and as you strip down the unit they can be invaluable when reassembling You will need a 'Torx' screwdriver with a T10 bit Cover the waste pipe unless you want to lose the screws Remove screws from 'U' clamp, switching assembly (at top of flow valve),the clip that holds flow valve and heating tank together and the screws at heating tank outlet pipe. Ease tank and valve forward and slightly right, pull the heating tank away from the valve some water will run out of the tank at this point. Allow the tank to hang on the wires strip off the wires from the existing flow valve and refit them to the new valve. Fit the new check valve (supplied) to the flow valve outlet (Large end in) Using the new 'O' rings (make sure they don’t fall off or become misplaced when fitting) fit the new flow valve make sure that it locates correctly with the heating tank clip and the locating pins at the top of the valve locate correctly with the switching assembly, as you push the whole assembly back into position ensure that the heating tank outlet pipe is in position and the inlet connector is in place. The above procedure is not technically difficult however three pairs of hands and the ability to levitate will help and for sure you will be glad when you see it all back in place! Once everything is back in place refit all the screws making sure that everything is located correctly and nothing is misaligned. Turn on water and examine for leaks switch on power then turn shower on at cold setting and run for 1min. Take care when doing this as shower is now live. Refit cover and test at different power settings. If every thing is OK have a shower you deserve it!!!!! PS If I have missed anything or you think of something that will make this job easier then please let me know and I’ll add it to the instructions. PPS The flow valve has recently changed it now needs the switching assembly replaced and a new neon at the same time, these instructions have not yes been up dated to take this in to account. Flow valve http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-507-Flow-Valve-Assembly Switching assembly http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-509-Switching-Assembly Neon http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-514-Low-Flow-Neon-Assembly Answered 277 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: hi - the problem is as above. The water flow seems fine but the temperature oscillates from hot to cold in a regular cyclical pattern. Many thanks mark
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Submitted 289 days ago | by
Mark, Unknown
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
If all the above are OK then it is likely to be a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
Sprint Flow Valve Turn off water and power. It may be useful to take photos before and as you strip down the unit they can be invaluable when reassembling You will need a 'Torx' screwdriver with a T10 bit Cover the waste pipe unless you want to loose the screws Remove screws from 'U' clamp, switching assembly (at top of flow valve),the clip that holds flow valve and heating tank together and the screws at heating tank outlet pipe. Ease tank and valve forward and slightly right, pull the heating tank away from the valve some water will run out of the tank at this point. Allow the tank to hang on the wires strip off the wires from the existing flow valve and refit them to the new valve. Fit the new check valve (supplied) to the flow valve outlet (Large end in) Using the new 'O' rings (make sure they don’t fall off or become misplaced when fitting) fit the new flow valve make sure that it locates correctly with the heating tank clip and the locating pins at the top of the valve locate correctly with the switching assembly, as you push the whole assembly back into position ensure that the heating tank outlet pipe is in position and the inlet connector is in place. The above procedure is not technically difficult however three pairs of hands and the ability to levitate will help and for sure you will be glad when you see it all back in place! Once everything is back in place refit all the screws making sure that everything is located correctly and nothing is misaligned. Turn on water and examine for leaks switch on power then turn shower on at cold setting and run for 1min. Take care when doing this as shower is now live. Refit cover and test at different power settings. If every thing is OK have a shower you deserve it!!!!! PS If I have missed anything or you think of something that will make this job easier then please let me know and I’ll add it to the instructions. PPS The flow valve has recently changed it now needs the switching assembly replaced and a new neon at the same time, these instructions have not yes been up dated to take this in to account. Flow valve http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-507-Flow-Valve-Assembly Switching assembly http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-509-Switching-Assembly Neon http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-514-Low-Flow-Neon-Assembly
Answered 288 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: I have a mira sprint year 2000 do you stock the shower head holder
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Submitted 338 days ago | by
terry, dl54nr
Answered 338 days ago | the doc A: Good afternoon, Thank you for your email. Before ordering a shower head holder it is important to measure the diameter of the pole on to which you will fit this part. This is important because Mira have manufactured several shower head holders down the years, all to suit different diameters of pole. Once you have obtained the relevant measurement, then please follow the link below. Here you will find a part to suit... http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/slider-brackets/miraI hope that this helps you out. Regards, The Shower Doctor. Answered 338 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: Our shower squeals constantly whilst we are using it and it drives me mad!!!!
It has now started stopping from anything after 30 seconds to 2 minutes of use where the unit is still switched on but the water just stops flowing out and wont come back on for at least 10 minutes and then just does it again!!
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Submitted 382 days ago | by
Rachel, Essex
Answered 382 days ago | The Doc
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Q: no water coming out of shower low water flow light on but water presher is ok
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Submitted 393 days ago | by
dot, tow law
Answered 392 days ago | The Doc
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Q: i have a mira sprint shower 9.5kw and it has just started cutting out sometimes after 10 -20 seconds other times it will run for 2 minutes thought it was low water pressure but indicator not coming on could it be flow valve assembley
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Submitted 393 days ago | by
nickfee, west yorkshire
A: Yes it's the flow valve Answered 393 days ago | The doc |
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Q: Hello, unit keeps blowing main fuse trip switch, checked ceiling switch, all OK, just wondered if there is one component that has gone short and can be replaced, many thanks Alan
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Submitted 432 days ago | by
Albi, Middlesex
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878
If it is a faulty element then the appropriate wattage heating can may be ordered online via the link below.
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-22-Mira-Sprint---post-2000 Answered 431 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: Do you sell the backing plate, the case that screws to the wall?
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Submitted 447 days ago | by
Villan, Shropshire
Answered 445 days ago | Alastair
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Q: My Mira Sprint 9.5kw has gone faulty with no water flowing.
The Hand Spray Plate is clear and the inlet strainer is clean.
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Submitted 477 days ago | by
skipe, Angus
Answered 473 days ago | Alastair
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Q: there are three people in the house now (two girls) and the shower keeps tripping the mains switch
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Submitted 479 days ago | by
PedroMc1, Edinburgh
A: Check the rating of the circuit breaker it should be 40amps for this shower if ok then it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12 to 18 ohms If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878
If it is a faulty element a new heating can of the appropriate wattage can be ordered online via the link below.
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-22-Mira-Sprint---post-2000 Answered 473 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: my mira sprint post2000 froze up in cold spell it still works but continuous drip from casing .How will I know which part to order
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Submitted 497 days ago | by
splash, Darlington
A: You will need to switch the power off remove the front cover and see if you can spot where the leak is coming from. If not, carefully dry everything out slip the cover back on and run for 10 seconds switch off the power to the unit remove the cover and look again, repeat until you find the leak Answered 497 days ago | The doc |
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Q: hi why does my shower keep switching from hot to cold when in use,what parts could solve this problem.
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Submitted 538 days ago | by
lurcher lover, reading
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
If the valves are OK and you still have the same problem then you probably need a new flow valve
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-507-Flow-Valve-Assembly Answered 536 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My shower was responsible for tripping the electrics (I believe). Sinse then it produces hot water at a reduced flow with the temperature nearly at max. Previously it was on 1/3 temperature with twice the flow. The flow rate was on max.
What has caused this?
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Submitted 542 days ago | by
Ben
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878
If you click on the link below it will take you to the parts diagram and you can order the required part online. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-22-Mira-Sprint---post-2000 Answered 541 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: works ok for 2 minutes ! then stops , but if left switched on will restart after 10 - 15 minutes ,and so repeats the cycle of on off on off .
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Submitted 600 days ago | by
phil, bristol
Answered 599 days ago | Alastair
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Q: When I push the ON switch. The water starts to flow for 10 or 15 seconds and then cuts off. Any suggestions would be welcome regarding this problem. Many thanks. (note that if I continue to hold the switch in. The water does heat-up and continue to flow, until releasing the switch again).
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Submitted 602 days ago | by
Keith
Answered 602 days ago | Alastair
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Q: There is a good flow of water coming out of the shower, but it is cold. Adjusting the temperature control does not help. I have consulted an electrician/plumber who has advised (without looking at the shower) that it needs to be replaced. Before I buy a new shower, I just wanted a second opinion as to whether it it possible that it just requires new parts.
Thank you.
Tracey T
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Submitted 609 days ago | by
Tracey T
Answered 609 days ago | Alastair
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Q: The said ball blew out of the tank the first time the shower was used, just after we had a new kitchen fitted. The mains water pressure is very high and we never open the stopcock fully, but the fitters didn't know this! Therefore I suspect that the input pressure may have had something to do with it. However, when forcing the little ball back in, I must have damaged it slightly as there is now a slow leak from the valve outlet. Is it possible to get a replacement ball? Am I correct about the input pressure being responsible for the valve blowing out?
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Submitted 616 days ago | by
Silver Fox
Answered 613 days ago | Alastair
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Q: What part could it be to remedy the shower functioning normally? It works on Hot Setting but a a much lower pressure? It is not scaled as the shower is quite new. Please advise
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Submitted 621 days ago | by
Glyno
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878
If it is an element problem then a replacement heating can can be ordered online by clicking on this link and choosing the correct power http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-22-Mira-Sprint---post-2000 Answered 620 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: My shower is working fine, but is taking increasingly longer to switch off after pressing the button. It does eventually switch off but I would estimate it takes at least 3 times as long as when it was first fitted.
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Submitted 646 days ago | by
Rob
A: Hi You need a new flow valve Here is the link. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-507-Flow-Valve-Assembly Answered 645 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: My shower has started dripping all the time. I have bought a new hose and head but it still keeps dripping. Can you tell me what part to order to stop this or some idea of what to replace (if possible)
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Submitted 651 days ago | by
Caravan
Answered 651 days ago | Alastair
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