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Q: Does the front panel, part no. 439.81 include the knobs, it's only the knobs that I need.
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Submitted 104 days ago | by
Mike, Macclesfield
A: Part 10 comes as one unit, knobs included. Answered 102 days ago | Barrie
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Q: hi there,i have a mira zest and a few months ago it just stopped,then if you turned it on nothing would happen for a few minites then it would fire up.Now it has packed up completly.Thanks julian
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Submitted 135 days ago | by
Anonymous, cornwall
Answered 134 days ago | The doc
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Q: My shower runs at the set temp for about a couple of minutes then the water turns ice cold for about a minute then returns back to the right temp. This happens throughout having a shower.
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Submitted 159 days ago | by
Stan, Newcastle
Answered 158 days ago | Alastair
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Q: the water won't run hot on any setting but good flow of cold runs.
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Submitted 177 days ago | by
Jake, Rutland
A: Sorry for the delay in replying.
I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements until the water cools, this can take up to 15mins)
See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs If the TCO is OK then you probably need a new flow regulator assembly Answered 171 days ago | The doc
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Q: After a water stoppage, the mira zest unit has waterflow but the water is not heating on any temp setting. Mains supply is fine. The flow seems very slow.
I have checked the filter, it is clear. Cable connection appear sound.
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Submitted 232 days ago | by
markus, gloucestershire
Answered 232 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Similar to last question and probably same answer. My zest 8.5 is just 18mth old and has stopped dead. There is power to the terminal block and heater as indicated by my finger on the top, light up screwdriver!!
Just one disturbing thing, the pull cord indicator light goes out when the shower knob turned to on and comes back on when turned back. Screwdriver says power still at power terminal block when light is out. Have checked wiring in pull cord switch and all seems ok. Is this relevant?
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Submitted 291 days ago | by
Kris, Islay
Answered 290 days ago | The Doc
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Q: I have a mira zest 7.5kw got it about 3yrs ago. when i turn it on nothing happens, i have had the front cover off and tested to see if theres electric at the strip connector. I have a supply there and also at the heating element any suggestions
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Submitted 292 days ago | by
problem shower, durham
Answered 291 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Water continues to flow even if switched off.
Is a new flow regulator required?
Steve
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Submitted 314 days ago | by
steve, Carmarthen
Answered 312 days ago | The Doc
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Q: My shower is either cold or boiling hot with nothing in between, can you please advise what part is required to rectify this problem
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Submitted 326 days ago | by
Rick, Wiltshire
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
If all the above are OK then you are going to need a new flow valve http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-439-77-Mira-Flow-Regulator-Assembly-(7-5---8-5kw-Models)-439-77 Answered 325 days ago | The Doc
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Q: do you have spare shower rail and head holder
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Submitted 355 days ago | by
tonym, rugby
Answered 354 days ago | Alastair
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Q: The shower was turned off when operating on cold and it started leaking. I can see cracking on a clamp between where the filter (3) is and the flow regulator assembly (4), Is it likely to be only the clamp which has failed?
Cheers
Paul
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Submitted 398 days ago | by
Big Pauly, Durham
A: The only way to be sure is to undo the clamp and see, if the back box is cracked then you will have to buy a new shower because Mira will not sell back boxes. The most common reason for the clamp cracking is that the pipe is not entering the shower perfectly squarely Answered 395 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Water is leaking from where the filter (Part3) connects to the flow assembly (part4) how do these parts connect, and are they fairly straight forward to replace?
many thanks.
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Submitted 404 days ago | by
jwc_007, Devon
A: Yes this should be fairly straight forward. However......,... The reason that this part often leaks is when the shower was installed the fitter did not hold against himself when tightening the nuts, or the more usual fault is the pipe work is not entering the shower perfectly straight If this is the case you will have to try to adjust it or the same fault may occur again. Answered 403 days ago | The Doc
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Q: My Mira zest (post 2003) runs fine for several minutes and then just cuts out. I need to wait a while to start it again and it will run fine then stop again. I replaced the thermal trip assembly which I bought last week but the problem is still there. Do I change the switch assembly or the flow regulator assembly next. Pressure is fine going into the shower.
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Submitted 430 days ago | by
Shaw70, Alloa
Answered 429 days ago | The Doc
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Q: I need the the clamp thats marked c on your diagram which is the screw bracket that connects 2 to 4
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Submitted 433 days ago | by
Nick, Poole Dorset
Answered 431 days ago | The Doc
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Q: I have a mira Zest shower that has stopped working no water is comming through to the shower head. there
appears to be 230 volts at the solenoid could this be faulty
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Submitted 496 days ago | by
Mick, Edinburgh
A: Here is how to check the solenoid. It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester If the solenoid is faulty then I would advise replacing the complete flow valve. Answered 494 days ago | The Doc
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