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Q: keeps cutting out & service light comes on, pressure seems ok, can sometime reactivate it by switching isolator switch off/on & may run for a limited time..prior to this we used to get an unexpected surge of very hot water for a short time before resorting to normal temperature, however it seems to have stopped doing this now of its own accord !
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Submitted 25 days ago | by
Dan Dare, Kidderminster
A: Almost certainlly needs a new relay board. Answered 25 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: Hi, Out of the blue Turning on the shower trips RCD? water will flow (cold) but ask for any heat and trip... off it goes water stops flowing. Obviously everything looks fine but it obviously is not!
Any ideas welcome..
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Submitted 48 days ago | by
Johnti, Unknown
A: Sounds like you could have a faulty ceiling/ wall switch, this needs checked first, or it may be the pcb is tripping the rcd when you ask for more heat.
http://www.showerdoc.com/MIRA-406-88-Mira-Relay-Board-And-Earth-Wire-406-88 Answered 45 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: The shower will work on cold fine and on warm on low setting turn it on med or high with the setting on warm it trips the rcd could this be a faulty thermostat
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Submitted 69 days ago | by
Bruellie, Chesterfi
Answered 67 days ago | Barrie
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Q: Please advise on probabale cause and solution to the above fault indicator
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Submitted 80 days ago | by
Mike, East Kilbride
A: Almost certainlly needs a new relay board. Answered 79 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: The Swivel part holding the shower head wont click in to hold the angle, I can't seem to be able to find the part or part no !
Can you assist ?
Joe
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Submitted 93 days ago | by
Joe, Airdrie, Scotland
A: http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/slider-brackets/mira/MIRA-411-23-Mira-Response-Clamp-Bracket-Assembly-(White)-411-23-(for-22mm-rail)
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/slider-brackets/mira/MIRA-411-23-Mira-Response-Clamp-Bracket-Assembly-(White)-411-23-(for-22mm-rail)
Depending on the age of the shower then one of the above is the correct part.
Answered 91 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: My Mira Advance ATL keeps cutting out, when this happens there are no lights on the shower or isolation pull switch. If I switch the pull switch off and on again the shower comes back on for a short while then cuts out again.
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Submitted 143 days ago | by
Richard, Woking, Surrey
A: Almost certainly needs a new relay board Answered 142 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: As per subject title. Shower cuts out and trips the consumer unit. After resetting the supply, the shower only lasts a few seconds and trips again, goes on a few times.
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Submitted 149 days ago | by
Taz, London
A: Would suspect the isolation switch so would check it internally for signs of overheating , would also check rating of circuit breaker , it should be 40amps. Answered 144 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: My MIRA ADVANCE ATL has an installation and user guide dated May 2003. Does this mean it is a "post 2003" model in the terms of spares? When it starts up there is an initial flow, then a clicking and the flow stops with the low pressure warning lit. On turning off the power and leaving it for about 30 secs it can be re-started again but the same thing repeats itself. I note that the filter assembly is fitted upside down with the black nut attached to the filter below the assembly rather than above. The filter needed cleaning but this has not solved the problem
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Submitted 179 days ago | by
Rich, Chelmsford, Essex
A: Sorry for the delay in replying I think you need a new relay board the age is not important for this part as it is the same board in both units. Answered 172 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Shower has an intermittent problem where sometimes it won't switch on, but then when it is on the only way of stopping it is with the isolation switch.
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Submitted 199 days ago | by
Garry, Woking
Answered 198 days ago | The Doc
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Q: For a while the shower kept cutting out and showing low pressure light. Would come back on again almost immediately when switched off and on at mains agin. Now the shower will not turn on at all and the 'service' light comes on and then fades away.
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Submitted 214 days ago | by
salalford, Notts
Answered 213 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Have the Advance thermostatic memory unit - 5 button. Problem just started after years of excellent service. Switch on and I get full water flow with what sounds like pressure noises in the unit, then I get a Low Pressure light for about 5 secs, then the shower cuts out. Checked heater - fine, suspect the Inlet sensor/flow valve or possibly the Relay Board (or both!).
What do you think guys?
Thanks
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Submitted 287 days ago | by
Ian, Cheshire
A: It could be a faulty relay board or faulty flow valve there is no way to know for sure. However our experience is, if the service light comes on then it’s most likely to be a faulty relay board. If it’s low pressure light then it’s most likely to be the flow valve. No lights at all then probably the relay board If you are unsure start with the relay board, this is the more common fault. On a few occasions you may need both, if you need to be certain then order both! No lights at all then you may have a faulty transformer. You can check this, there is a white plug at the top of the relay board, the blue and red wires are mains and should have 240v the black wires are from the transformer and should have 12v AC If the transformer is OK once again, start with the relay board. In this particular case from your description I think it is a faulty relay board not giving the flow valve the correct instructions......So I would start with the relay board. Fitting Board and valve. Obviously turn the power and water off . Changing the board is fairly straight forward just take notes and photos of where all the cables and plugs go as you dismantle then it should be easy to reverse the procedure. To change the flow valve you have to remove the ‘U’ clamp on the inlet and the screw at the foot of the heating tank there is then a small tab to the right of the heating tank this is a clip you need to pull this forward to release the hook you may need to use a screwdriver or pliers to flick it forward. The tank and valve should then pull forward enough to be able to separate them, then remove the plug from the circuit board. Fit the two new ‘O’ rings supplied and then push the tank and valve together offer the assembly back up and into place, refit the ‘U’ clamp and the screw at the bottom of the tank and make sure that the hook clippie thing is firmly pushed back into place. Turn on water and test also check the earth wire that runs across the top of the flow valve is clear of the purge button and remember to press the purge button for 15secs to allow the heating tank to refill. George Answered 284 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: The shower now ONLY works when temperature is between 1-3. Any hotter it just shuts down. What is the problem and what parts would I need to replace?
Many thanks
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Submitted 312 days ago | by
wacko, Kent
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then the sensor in the shower may detect that there is not enough water getting to the shower.
It could also be a faulty relay board or faulty flow valve there is no way to know for sure. However our experience is, if the service light comes on then it’s most likely to be a faulty relay board. If it’s low pressure light then it’s most likely to be the flow valve. No lights at all then probably the relay board If you are unsure start with the relay board, this is the more common fault. On a few occasions you may need both, if you need to be certain then order both! No lights at all then you may have a faulty transformer. You can check this, there is a white plug at the top of the relay board, the blue and red wires are mains and should have 240v the black wires are from the transformer and should have 12v AC If the transformer is OK once again, start with the relay board. George Fitting Board and valve. Obviously turn the power and water off . Changing the board is fairly straight forward just take notes and photos of where all the cables and plugs go as you dismantle then it should be easy to reverse the procedure. To change the flow valve you have to remove the ‘U’ clamp on the inlet and the screw at the foot of the heating tank there is then a small tab to the right of the heating tank this is a clip you need to pull this forward to release the hook you may need to use a screwdriver or pliers to flick it forward. The tank and valve should then pull forward enough to be able to separate them, then remove the plug from the circuit board. Fit the two new ‘O’ rings supplied and then push the tank and valve together offer the assembly back up and into place, refit the ‘U’ clamp and the screw at the bottom of the tank and make sure that the hook clippie thing is firmly pushed back into place. Turn on water and test also check the earth wire that runs across the top of the flow valve is clear of the purge button and remember to press the purge button for 15secs to allow the heating tank to refill. Answered 312 days ago | The doc |
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Q: ONLY 18 MONTHS OLD. THE ON OFF BLUE LIGHT IS NOT CONTINUOUS, IT IS FLASHING. WHEN YOU SELECT THE HIGH OR LOW BOTH LIGHT UP FOR A SECOND THEN ONLY ONE. THE SHOWER THEN WORKS FOR ABOUT 5 SECONDS AND SWITCHES OFF. THE LIGHT STILL FLASHES BLUE BUT NO LIGHTS ON THE FLOW SELECTORS.THE RESET AND LOW FLOW LIGHTS ARE NOT ON.
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Submitted 321 days ago | by
mark1davies, Measham
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower. If these don’t resolve the problem then get in touch with Mira because this shower has a two year guarantee Answered 319 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: The Shower will not start and has no power or lights. The isolator light on the pull cord flickered prior to the shut down and I now have no light on the isolator or power to the unit. The fuse didn't blow. Could this be the isolator switch and not the shower
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Submitted 332 days ago | by
Big D, Doncaster
A: Yes I think it probably is a faulty isolator Answered 332 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi
I have a Mira Advance therastatic Standard.Had hot water this morning but none this evening.The water pressure is high but cold.The unit keeps switching itself off with low pressure light coming on.
The unit has carried on dripping when switched off in the past but not at present.
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Submitted 334 days ago | by
suitcase, stockport
A: It could be a faulty relay board or faulty flow valve there is no way to know for sure. However our experience is, if the service light comes on then it’s most likely to be a faulty relay board. If it’s low pressure light then it’s most likely to be the flow valve. No lights at all then probably the relay board If you are unsure start with the relay board, this is the more common fault. On a few occasions you may need both, if you need to be certain then order both! No lights at all then you may have a faulty transformer. You can check this, there is a white plug at the top of the relay board, the blue and red wires are mains and should have 240v the black wires are from the transformer and should have 12v AC If the transformer is OK once again, start with the relay board. George Having read your ticket I think that your fault is in fact the relay board however if it has been dripping at the shower head then you are also going to need a flow valve to resolve that problem. Fitting Board and valve. Obviously turn the power and water off . Changing the board is fairly straight forward just take notes and photos of where all the cables and plugs go as you dismantle then it should be easy to reverse the procedure. To change the flow valve you have to remove the ‘U’ clamp on the inlet and the screw at the foot of the heating tank there is then a small tab to the right of the heating tank this is a clip you need to pull this forward to release the hook you may need to use a screwdriver or pliers to flick it forward. The tank and valve should then pull forward enough to be able to separate them, then remove the plug from the circuit board. Fit the two new ‘O’ rings supplied and then push the tank and valve together offer the assembly back up and into place, refit the ‘U’ clamp and the screw at the bottom of the tank and make sure that the hook clippie thing is firmly pushed back into place. Turn on water and test also check the earth wire that runs across the top of the flow valve is clear of the purge button and remember to press the purge button for 15secs to allow the heating tank to refill. George Answered 333 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi
Just bought a second hand shower. With no power going to the shower and with the water switched on, the water flows straight to the shower head and will not switch off.
Should it do this?
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Submitted 345 days ago | by
Jay, Manchester
A: Should it do this?......No! There is a by-pass button on top of the flow/solenoid valve, make sure that this is not stuck down give it a couple of quick presses and see if it will reset. If not ask for your money back! Because it is going to need a new flow valve or a relay board or maybe even both. Answered 345 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My ATL Shower has started making a high pitched droning noise. If I switch on at full flow and cold temp the noise is not evident, as I turn up to about 7 on the temp the noise comes in. The noise is quite invasive and can be heard around the house. Nothing seems loose and I have descaled the head and checked the filter. Seems to come from the bottom rh corner of the box and the whole cover vibrates at high frequency. The shower is 2 years old. Any ideas gratefully apprecited, web forums seem to suggest the inlet pressure valve area??? Many thanks
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Submitted 372 days ago | by
floydboy, Norwich
A: I haven’t heard of this fault before however it is possible you could be getting a noise from the solenoid / inlet valve. The only way I think you can prove this is to switch off the power and remove the front cover try and get the front cover held/jammed in such a way that you can switch the shower on, making sure that the shower head is pointed well away from the shower it’s self, and then listen to see if it is the valve that is making the noise. If you don’t feel confident about doing this then now is the time to call in a professional. Answered 371 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi when we switch the shower off water still keeps dripping from the head. valve? solenoid?
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Submitted 373 days ago | by
steve, sheffield
Answered 372 days ago | The Doc
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Q: temperature set on 8 and hardly heats the water.Has been getting worse over the last few weeks.Used to heat the water on 5 to hot.Is the thermostat going.
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Submitted 402 days ago | by
mandy, west sussex
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a faulty relay on the PCB. If you have good resistance and power to the elements then it is likely to be the inlet valve. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 401 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: unit starts ok then there is a click (relay ?) the low pressure light comes on ,shower slows to a dribble that continues. water pressure is ok. so relay board or flow valve assembly as most likely suspect. have noticed that there is corrosion on flow valve as if it has a slight leak, this has distorted the solenoid slightly.
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Submitted 428 days ago | by
keith, hampshire
A: It could be a faulty relay board or faulty flow valve there is no way to know for sure. However our experience is, if the service light comes on then it’s most likely to be a faulty relay board. If it’s low pressure light then it’s most likely to be the flow valve. No lights at all then probably the relay board If you are unsure start with the relay board, this is the more common fault. On a few occasions you may need both, if you need to be certain then order both! No lights at all then you may have a faulty transformer. You can check this, there is a white plug at the top of the relay board, the blue and red wires are mains and should have 240v the black wires are from the transformer and should have 12v AC If the transformer is OK once again, start with the relay board. George When you mention the click that would send me to the relay board, however you mention the problem with the solenoid so that would point me to the solenoid ........sorry not much more help. . Fitting Board and valve. Obviously turn the power and water off . Changing the board is fairly straight forward just take notes and photos of where all the cables and plugs go as you dismantle then it should be easy to reverse the procedure. To change the flow valve you have to remove the ‘U’ clamp on the inlet and the screw at the foot of the heating tank there is then a small tab to the right of the heating tank this is a clip you need to pull this forward to release the hook you may need to use a screwdriver or pliers to flick it forward. The tank and valve should then pull forward enough to be able to separate them, then remove the plug from the circuit board. Fit the two new ‘O’ rings supplied and then push the tank and valve together offer the assembly back up and into place, refit the ‘U’ clamp and the screw at the bottom of the tank and make sure that the hook clippie thing is firmly pushed back into place. Turn on water and test also check the earth wire that runs across the top of the flow valve is clear of the purge button and remember to press the purge button for 15secs to allow the heating tank to refill. George Answered 428 days ago | The doc |
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Q: The shower was leaking where the incoming supply meets the shower unit. I unscrewed the cover where the two connections meet and replaced the washer. Unfortunately the screw broke in the rear of the casing when I tightened it up. Do I need a whole new casing?
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Submitted 481 days ago | by
Robin P, Newcastle upon Tyne
Answered 477 days ago | Alastair
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Q: After being away for a few days I came home to the water tank in the loft frozen and no hot water. I have managed to solve that problem but my shower still will not work. When I switch on a dribble of water comes out and after about 15 seconds the low pressure light comes on and cuts the shower off.
Can anyone help?
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Submitted 519 days ago | by
mike, nottingham
A: If the shower was OK before then I suspect that the pipe work is still frozen somewhere, failing that it could be a faulty inlet valve Answered 518 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Turn power on to shower, then when flow button is pressed, shower cuts out, reset light comes on. If the shower is left for long period of time like a week, it will work fine, but as soon as you try again after iits been used, it cuts out to the reset. Do you think this is the inlet sensor, the pcb, or something else
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Submitted 524 days ago | by
Darlo178, Hereford
A: I think it is the relay PCB that needs replaced Answered 522 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My shower (advance 9.8 flex ATL587n 27/5) keeps cutting out. If I leave it for 3-5 mins it cuts out and fails to start for some time. Absolutely no light come on although the main switchto the shower indicates that the power is on.
If I start it up and turn it off and on numerous times fairly quickly it works fine, as long as I do not allow it to get to the cut out stage outlines above.
I believe it needs a new inlet sensor (Mira 405.50) circa £37 or a complete flow valve for an extra £15
Would this be right and is there much of difference in fitting the complete assembly or just the inlet sensor.
This is the second Mira shower that has behaved this way.
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Submitted 600 days ago | by
taggarc
Answered 600 days ago | Alastair
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Q: i have mira advance electric shower.i have power to shower but no lights showing on control panel is it relay board or control board. please advise.
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Submitted 626 days ago | by
stevo
A: There are several possibilities. First check there is a minimum of 230volts at connector block, if not then isolation switch is at fault. If voltage ok then in middle of relay pcb at top there is a 4 way connector, check there is 230/240 volts present at red and blue wires if not then relay pcb is at fault. If this voltage is ok check the 2 black wires there should be 15 to 20 volts if not it is the transformer at fault. If this voltage is ok then we are back to a faulty relay pcb. It is highly unlikely to be the control pcb. Once you have established which part is at fault it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-3-Mira-Advance-ATL---post-2003 Answered 625 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: Is there any way I can determine the power of my model? By serial no.etc?If not can one tank assembly substitute for another.I ask because having replaced the inlet sensor to remedy constant low pressure turn offs,when the unit is now turned on and flow selected, there is no audible signal, or water flow,and the service light comes on immediately.The service manual seems to suggest that the outlet sensor could be at fault,which requires tha tank assembly to be replaced.Is this the case, or is the unit totally u.s.??? ANY HELP WOULD BE VERY MUCH APPRECIATED!!
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Submitted 725 days ago | by
DADROS
A: The power rating is given on the label that shows the serial no., however from your description what you really need to replace is the printed circuit board which can be ordered online by clicking on the link below. Would warn you that in rare cases the flow valve can also have gone faulty and may also need replaced. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-406-88-Relay-Board-and-Earth-WireAlastair Answered 724 days ago | Alastair |
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