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Q: I have no hot running water at all I used the shower last night and it was running fine. The power light is on and the flow seems ok what would you suggest ?. Cheer
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Submitted 95 days ago | by
Conlee, Unknown
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 95 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: can you sell the chrome screw cover for the Glass front of the azora. on changing the glass the back screw was overtightened and has snapped the chrome receiver. I hope this makes sense
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Submitted 108 days ago | by
scarlett, scotland
A:
There two component packs on this shower theyare marked A and B on the drawing.
http://www.showerdoc.com/mira-parent-5-mira-azora
Ifthe screw you require is not one of these perhaps you can send a couple ofphotos of the screw or broken part so we can ID it.
Answered 107 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi, I have just replaced the flow valve on my mira shower but it no longer gets very hot (tepid at best). The temperature was fin before. I have checked all the micro switches and they seem to be ok, the filter looks ok and the flow is brilliant. Please can u help?
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Submitted 122 days ago | by
andie, rothes
A: Are you getting power to both elements? If you are then check the elements ....Seebelow. It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 122 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi Showerdoc. Think my Azora needs a new solenoid. Have watched your video on solenoid replacement. Do you need to remove the entire inlet assembly to replace the solenoid on a Mira Azora?
Many thanks & congrats on a great website & service. Dave
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Submitted 137 days ago | by
Plombier, Notts
A: Yes you will have to remove the flow valve / inlet assemblyto replace the solenoid. My advice would be to replace the complete flow valve ratherthan just the solenoid (the solenoid comes as part of the flow valve) on theseshowers the part that becomes faulty most often is the flow valve and the workinvolved in replacing the solenoid is exactly the same as the replacing thecomplete flow valve. Answered 136 days ago | The doc |
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Q: My shower started to leak inside the unit so I got a new flow valve and inlet assembly. That cured the leak but now the water only heats up to tepid. I've checked the temperature cam and pulley and that is turned up as far as it will go. The filter is ok. The water temperature was fine before the leak started. The water supply to the shower is fully on. Any ideas?
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Submitted 180 days ago | by
Andy, Yorkshire
A: Sorry for the delay in replying If the temperature was fine before you started then it suggests that one of the elements in the heating tank is not being energised (There is no power getting to it) Check your wiring it is possible that you have mixed the wires up that go from the micro switches to the elements or one of the wires has not been properly connected. Answered 172 days ago | The DOC |
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Q: Should the on button be illuminated before I push it in to start the shower?
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Submitted 198 days ago | by
Anonymous, Malmesbury
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Q: My Mira Azora shower stopped working despite the red light being on at the mains isolator switch, however the light within the unit (on button) is NOT lit.
What could be the problem?
Regards
John
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Submitted 199 days ago | by
JonBoy, Chesterfield
A: I could probably do with a bit more info however in the first case can you check your Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs Answered 199 days ago | The doc |
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Q: shower is approx 3years old.Yesterday it started to leak from behind the shower box towards left hand corner.Just aslight but steady leak.
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Submitted 212 days ago | by
tayvie, Hamilton
Answered 212 days ago | The Doc
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Q: On turning off the Mira Azora the water continues to flow, gradually turning cold.
This started some months ago, and the time taken to eventually stop has gradually increased. Now it seems to go on forever - even after turning off main power.
This also happened soon after initial fitting, but was corrected under warranty.
As the warranty has now expired, can you tell me what parts I would need to replace in order to fix it?
Thanks.
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Submitted 245 days ago | by
Phill, Chippenham
Answered 244 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Water is spurting out inside the unit (as demonstrated by the Electrictian who just did an electrical test on our shower) We called him in when my husband had an electric shock from the shower. We now know its not an electrical fault but a plumbing one. We live in a hard water area and pressume this is what is causing the unit to spurt out water. It seems like it is spurting out of the back plastic part inside the unit. Any advice as to what part may need replacing please?
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Submitted 282 days ago | by
bendysh, Hertfordshire
Answered 281 days ago | The Doc
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Q: My shower head has recently started dripping, what could be the cause? It is only 3 months old, I noticed it continuously dripping about every 5-10 seconds only a few nights ago as i'm a sensitive sleeper.
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Submitted 292 days ago | by
Dan, hampshire
A: Sounds like a faulty flow valve The unit is still under guarantee give Mira a ring.
Answered 291 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: On using shower, water stopped abruptly and does not emit any water. (Water pressure is good) This appliance is nearly three years old.
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Submitted 331 days ago | by
Sue, Warwick
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Q: On using shower, water stopped abruptly and does not emit any water. (Water pressure is good) This appliance is nearly three years old.
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Submitted 331 days ago | by
Sue, Warwick
A: If you still have electricity supplying the shower and no water then it sounds like the solenoid coil has failed ( item 11 - 416.51 ) from the spares list in this link provided to the spares daigram, you may end up having to fit item 8 though which is the flow valve with the solenoid valve coil attached if the coil alone doesnt sort your problem. Mira azora - http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-PARENT-5-Mira-Azora Answered 331 days ago | LC |
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Q: Since fitting a new flow valve and inlet filter the temperature has to be set to cold on power setting 3 and then it is hot, turning the temperature up makes it too hot, even tho thw setting is in the blue cool area.
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Submitted 395 days ago | by
steve, sheffield
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally If all of these are OK then you may have got the Temperature control belt in the wrong position
Answered 394 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My shower after only 2 years has started running hot then cold, I'm assuming this is some form of thermostat Do you think in need the Thermal Switch or the thermostatic valve/heater/
many thanks
James
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Submitted 414 days ago | by
James, Bristol
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Answered 414 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: allastair thanks for your reply getting the elements checked .there was one more thing i noticed if it means anything normally when the shower is put on the water flowsout at a set rate then after about 30 seconds it comes out more .since the temp has dropped the waterflow just stays the same all the time many thanks alfie
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Submitted 472 days ago | by
alfie, essex
A: This is the thermostatic valve operating and as long as the shower is usable this is ok. Answered 470 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: we have had azora for about 3 yrs. no problems but the last 2 mths water is not coming out so hot .the shower is fed from cold mains. we have to turn temp fully up and the water is still not as hot as it has been any ideas many thanks
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Submitted 475 days ago | by
alfie, essex
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878If it is an element fault then replacement heating tank can be ordered online by clicking on the link below http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-533-Mira-Thermostatic-Valve-heater-Tank-9-8-Kw-240-V-Ac-1563-533 Answered 471 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: always worked well but last couple of months water temp seems to have gone down even when temp control turned right up
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Submitted 478 days ago | by
alfie, essex
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878If it is the heating element a replacement heating can may be ordered online by clicking on the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-1563-533-Mira-Thermostatic-Valve-heater-Tank-9-8-Kw-240-V-Ac-1563-533 Answered 473 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: hi, our mira azora works for just 3 minutes, and then stops, could you tell me which part should i order to fix the problem? we bought it nearly 3 years ago and has been working fine since. unfortuanatly we have since lost the reciept. thanks
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Submitted 643 days ago | by
dave
A: If the water shuts off after about 3 mins then it sounds like the coil part number MIRA-416.51 has become faulty and needs replaced. You will find this item on the spares diagram under the heading shower spares and Mir electric showers or entering the part number in to the search bar on the top right of the homepage on our website. Answered 643 days ago | SD |
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Q: What is normaly wrong when the water does not come out of the shower,
Mira 8.5Kw about 7 years old.
I have checked the filter,
Thank You
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Submitted 779 days ago | by
Derrydeeko
A: Hi It could be a couple of things but check this out first. It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 777 days ago | The Doc A: Hi It could be a couple of things but check this out first. It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 777 days ago | The Doc |
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