Triton 82600800

 The first things to check are:

 1  That the shower is connected to the water mains

 2  That the main valve coming into your house isfully open.

 3  Then check that the valve on the line to theshower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enoughwater

getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore nopower will get to the elements and theunit will show low pressure.

Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hotto fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble comingfrom the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you donot have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer  valve

Finally when you turn thewater on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator ontop of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of thePCB make sure they are properly aligned.

If all these are OK then youprobably have a fault with your PCB.

The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCBhowever they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the lowpressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB.

Hi

There are two further things to check.

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

If the elements are OK then check the out let TCO

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe  (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)

Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced.   

 The replacement is fairly straight forward.

Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantle most of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part out and the new part in.

This sounds more difficult than it actually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc. come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos as you go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding.