Triton 82600810

This is likely to be a faulty solenoid or a faulty Power PCB

To Check the solenoid.

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

To Check the PCB

 The first things to check are:

1  That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2  Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water

getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore no power will get to the elements

and the unit will show low pressure.

Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer  valve

Finally when you turn the water on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator on top of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of the PCB make sure they are properly aligned.

If all these are OK then you probably have a fault with your PCB.

The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCB however they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the low pressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB.

I presume that the water keeps running when it shows low pressure?

If that is the case the first things to check are:

1  That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2  Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water

getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore no power will get to the elements

and the unit will show low pressure.

Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer  valve

Finally when you turn the water on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator on top of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of the PCB make sure they are properly aligned.

If all these are OK then you probably have a fault with your PCB.

The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCB however they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the low pressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB.

George