Triton 83300450

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

3 Is it connected to the water mains?

 

If all these are OK then the most likely fault is the stabilizervalve, unfortunately this is now obsolete.

 

A: Yes you can change the solenoid coil , if you click on the link below it will take you to a video clip showing how to test and if required change the coil and allow online ordering , remember to test in the failed state.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/HYDR-27600-Solenoid-Coil--Universal-(no-Valve)-27600

A: Good afternoon,

Thank you for your email.

Yes, it could well be the solenoid at fault. It sounds like it has failed into the closed position and is not letting the water through. The solenoid needs to be energised constantly throughout the showering experience to allow the water to flow into the unit and then out of the shower head. However, to be sure beyond reasonable doubt that it is the solenoid at fault, then it needs to be tested with a digital multimeter. When tested, a solenoid should display a resistance reading across its two terminals of at least 3.5k ohms. If the reading obtained is any less than this, then the solenoid will need to be replaced.

Nb. Remember to test the solenoid in its failed state; i.e. when the shower is not working.

Should you require a new solenoid (and it is the Triton Rapide R1 that you have got) then please follow the link below to order the required part from our website...

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83300450-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-Assembly-83300450

I hope that this helps you out.

Regards,

Michael.
The Shower Doctor

A: 

You don’t mention which model you have, however one of your elements has gone this may have been caused by a lack of water.

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

 

If there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

If you also now have no water you may have a faulty solenoid valve

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

 

 

A: 

The resistance is low on the solenoid valve.

 

However I have the feeling that this is more likely that you have a fault with the on/off switch not engaging/disengaging.

 

Can you press the button on and off repeatedly and see if it feels different on the occasions that the shower doesn’t switch off.

A: 

The fault is with the actuator on which the solenoid is acting, this could be dirt etc.

Replacing the whole assembly should solve this.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/trito-83300450-triton-solenoid-valve-assembly-83300450

A: More likely to be just the solenoid coil which can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/HYDR-27600-Hydra-Universal-Solenoid-Coil-(no-Valve)-27600

A: This is certainly a solenoid valve fault and it should be replaced, it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83300450-Solenoid-valve-assembly

A: 

Hi

Any water leak in side an electric shower should be regarded as dangerous.

The replacement of the solenoid is fairly straight forward.

Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantle most of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part out and the new part in.

This sounds more difficult than it actually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc. come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos as you go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding.

Before you replace the solenoid have a careful check of the stabilizer valve just above the solenoid this can often leak and drip down on to the solenoid making it look like it is the solenoid that is leaking.