Triton T80

A: There should be a plastic sticker on the underside of the cover and/orinside the unit, also it is stamped into the top of the heating can althoughthis may be difficult to see.

A: 

Unusual for a Triton to fail so soon in any case the T80xrhas a two year guarantee so I would give Triton a ring.

However if you are looking for something else then I wouldsuggest the new Mira Jump or the new sport.

http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/mira/electric-showers

 

 

 

A: Would suspect that the shower hose is kinked or collapsing internally as it heats so woud recommend replacing it. Appropriate one can be ordered online via this link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/shower-hoses/triton

A: 

Themicro switch that supplies the power to the solenoid valve is probably stuck inthe on position, or the switching assembly behind the power selector hascollapsed and keeping the power on to the solenoid.

Ifyou trace the fault to the switch then that is fairly easily and cheaplyreplaced however if it is anything else considering the age of the shower youare probably best to replace the shower.

 

Unfortunatelythere is nothing that is a direct swap.

 

However.......Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed roundbeing a retrofit unit  (Tritons word notmine!)

 

Thepipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonableamount of space for cable entry from most positions.

 

Hereis the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

 

See Video at the footof the page

A: The T80 has been out of production for a good number of years and is closer to 20years old than 6 months. From your description the fault is the stabiliser valve which has been obsolete for quite some time so a new shower is required.
Our recommended replacement is the Triton T80z , the appropriate wattage model can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton/electric-showers

A: 

The cartridge is the top section of the stabilizer valve the PRD is under the heating tank.

 

If it is leaking from the cartridge then this part is obsolete

A: 

 I think the pressure relief device has blown.

 

It’s a safety device on the bottom of the heating tank or outlet pipe

 

It is fairly easy to replace however there is usually something that causes it to blow,

often a kink in the hose or the showerhead is blocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83301330-PRD-(Pressure-Relief-Device)-and-'O'-ring-(Pair)?ss=prd&pg=2

http://www.showerdoc.com/trito-82800450-triton-pressure-relief-device-82800450

 

A: 

If the shower is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

 

If there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: 

It came with different ratings there should be a plastic sticker on the underside of the cover and/or inside the unit, also it is stamped into the top of the heating can although this may be difficult to see and you will have to remove the front cover (That is of course after you switch off the power to the unit!)

Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap.

 

However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit  (Tritons word not mine!)

 

The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions.

 

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

 

See Video at the foot of the page

A: 

It came with different ratings there should be a plastic sticker on the underside of the cover and/or inside the unit, also it is stamped into the top of the heating can although this may be difficult to see.

 

A: The stabiliser valve is obsolete and no longer available nor is it a repairable item so a new shower is required.
Our recommended replacement is the Triton T80z 8,5kw which can be ordered online by clicking on this link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z Electric-Shower-8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

A: 

I am afraid it has passed away!

 

 

Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap.

 

However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit  (Tritons word not mine!)

 

The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions.

 

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

 

See Video at the foot of the page

 

Should take 1 to 1 ½ hrs max to fit a newT80Z

 

 

A: 

The two corrugated panels on the top and bottom slide forward once they are removed you will see the two screws that hold the front cover on.

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: 

 I think you may have a micro switch that is stuck in the on position keeping one of the elements energised all the time.

Operate the shower by using the pull cord switch until you are able to fix the problem, but remember using the pull cord is a temporary solution.

 

A: Could it just be the noise of the water heating ....Just like a kettle ... Caused by old age

A: 

Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap.

 

However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit  (Tritons word not mine!)

 

The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions.

 

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

 

See Video at the foot of the page

 

A: Check that water mains stopcock and any isolation valve in the supply tothe shower are fully open.
Check with your water supplier that there has not been a reduction in supply pressure or flow.
If above are ok then it is a faulty stabiliser valve which is now obsollete so a new shower is required , our recommended replacement is the Triton T80z which whilst not a direct replacement should be fairly straightforward to install.
The appropriate wattage T80z can be ordered online via the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton/electric-showers

A: As most parts for this unit are now obsolete would strongly recommend a replacement unit. There is no direct replacement but the Triton T80z will be fairly straightforward to fit, the appropriate wattage unit can be ordered online via the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton/electric-showers

A: If it is leaking from the small plastic tube behind the hose connection then it is the pressure relief device that has activated and needs replaced, it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83301330-Triton-Prd-(pressure-Relief-Device)-And-O-Ring-(pair)-83301330

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

A: Would suggest you change the solenoid coil, if you click on the link below it will take you to avideo clip showing how to test and change the coil and allow you to order online.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/HYDR-27600-Hydra-Universal-Solenoid-Coil-(no-Valve)-27600

A: 

Some solenoids have a filter in the inlet, so I would see if that is blocked.

If not check the solenoid.

 

I dont know if The t80i or t80 are available in S.A.

 

 

 

The normal fault with a solenoid valve is the coil breaks down, we can supply the coils separately however you have to be careful when changing them over.

Turn off the water and power then place two screwdrivers between the base of the coil (usually brown or white) and the base of the solenoid body and ease the old coil off the body.

On some units the coil can be replaced without removing the existing solenoid from the shower case on others it will be necessary to remove the valve to fit the new coil.