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Q: Hi I have a T80 that has given up the ghost, I'm not sure what wattage it is (it was in the house when I bought it). How do I check so I can be sure to get the right replacement?
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Submitted 3 days ago | by
Anonymous, Unknown
A: There should be a plastic sticker on the underside of the cover and/orinside the unit, also it is stamped into the top of the heating can althoughthis may be difficult to see. Answered 1 day ago | bar-s
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Q: Having replaced a T80 with a T80xr about 14 months ago so that the electrics and water pipes would be compatible, the T80xr has now failed.
Not too happy with Triton so would prefer to replace T80xr with a shower from a different manufacturer.
Can you please recommend a shower - from any manufacturer other than Triton - which would be compatible for position of electrics/water with T80/T80xr?
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Submitted 27 days ago | by
she2656, Nottinghamshire, UK
A: Unusual for a Triton to fail so soon in any case the T80xrhas a two year guarantee so I would give Triton a ring. However if you are looking for something else then I wouldsuggest the new Mira Jump or the new sport. http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/mira/electric-showers Answered 27 days ago | The doc
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Q: The shower starts fine although I have to have high heat setting. After a while the flow diminishes and I have to turn down the heat to get the water to flow fully again. Is it possible I have the wrong shower head fitted? Is there a recommended shower head for the T80 from your range?
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Submitted 53 days ago | by
Steve, Cambridge
Answered 51 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Supplies water o.k. but cannot turn off and on from shower unit. Only works directly from main power cord switch.
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Submitted 105 days ago | by
Tim, Epsom Surrey
A: Themicro switch that supplies the power to the solenoid valve is probably stuck inthe on position, or the switching assembly behind the power selector hascollapsed and keeping the power on to the solenoid. Ifyou trace the fault to the switch then that is fairly easily and cheaplyreplaced however if it is anything else considering the age of the shower youare probably best to replace the shower. Unfortunatelythere is nothing that is a direct swap. However.......Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed roundbeing a retrofit unit (Tritons word notmine!) Thepipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonableamount of space for cable entry from most positions. Hereis the link. http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome) See Video at the footof the page Answered 105 days ago | The doc
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Q: The shower runs warm, then almost scalding hot and then, with the slightest of tweaks on the dial, too cool. It feels extremely cold but is actually just slightly not warm enough. It seems impossible to maintain a constant temperature.
We have been advised that the shower is just six months old so surely this cannot be right?
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Submitted 138 days ago | by
Tripod, Hove
A: The T80 has been out of production for a good number of years and is closer to 20years old than 6 months. From your description the fault is the stabiliser valve which has been obsolete for quite some time so a new shower is required. Our recommended replacement is the Triton T80z , the appropriate wattage model can be ordered online by clicking on the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton/electric-showers Answered 137 days ago | Alastair
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Q: my triton t80 is leaking and the water seems to be coming from the cartridge assy/stab valve could this still be that the prd has blown
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Submitted 176 days ago | by
denzil, St.helens
A: The cartridge is the top section of the stabilizer valve the PRD is under the heating tank. If it is leaking from the cartridge then this part is obsolete Answered 176 days ago | The doc
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Q: not heating
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Submitted 196 days ago | by
eamonn, cork ireland
A: If the shower is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs If there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 196 days ago | Anonymous
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Q: I have a very old T80 Triton shower which I want to replace as is no longer working. How do I find out the wattage of the appliance without removing the front panel
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Submitted 198 days ago | by
Babs, London
A: It came with different ratings there should be a plastic sticker on the underside of the cover and/or inside the unit, also it is stamped into the top of the heating can although this may be difficult to see and you will have to remove the front cover (That is of course after you switch off the power to the unit!) Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap. However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit (Tritons word not mine!) The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions. Here is the link. http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome) See Video at the foot of the page Answered 197 days ago | The Doc
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Q: how do i know what kw my t80 is
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Submitted 199 days ago | by
rob, barnsley
A: It came with different ratings there should be a plastic sticker on the underside of the cover and/or inside the unit, also it is stamped into the top of the heating can although this may be difficult to see. Answered 197 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Has anything replaced TRITO 82600160, Stab valve? Are component parts available? This is my third question about the same problem. When switched on, water gushes out of the middle of the dial of unit. (Triton T80)
Yours,H. Saunders
PS. that answer came very quickly, but I don't think the problem is the Solenoid valve as described below..
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Submitted 214 days ago | by
Sandy, RG4 8BZ
Answered 214 days ago | Alastair
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Q: My trusty T80 shower unit seems to have had its chips. When it is turned on, water flows - yes, it flows all over the place as if there is a leak inside the box. Water does flow through the shower head. The Heater does not come on. Yesterday it worked as normal but not today. I have previously changed pressure relief devices and other components like the Thermal Cut - out. Is there anything that I can do - or is it chips?
What would it cost to have a repairman come and simply put in a replacement part if it can't be fixed by me?
Yours, H. Saunders
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Submitted 216 days ago | by
Sandy, RG4 8BZ
A: I am afraid it has passed away! Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap. However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit (Tritons word not mine!) The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions. Here is the link. http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome) See Video at the foot of the page Should take 1 to 1 ½ hrs max to fit a newT80Z Answered 216 days ago | The Doc
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Q: how does the front cover come off on the t80 unit
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Submitted 240 days ago | by
billybob, bradford
A: The two corrugated panels on the top and bottom slide forward once they are removed you will see the two screws that hold the front cover on. Answered 239 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Hi,
I have a Triton T80 which will not work at all. I have checked that power is going to the unit, i have even taken the front off and carefully checked that power is going to the parts which it appears does.
Nothing is loose or burnt out and water runs to it fine.
Any ideas would be gratfully recieved.
Many Thanks in advance
Mark Trussler
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Submitted 264 days ago | by
MJTChloe, Hampshire
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 264 days ago | The Doc
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Q: When power is on for the shower with the selector switch in the off position, no water comes out but the heater heats up the water in the cannister assembly. Is this a pressure switch failure & is the part available.
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Submitted 267 days ago | by
Ronnie, Chorley
A: I think you may have a micro switch that is stuck in the on position keeping one of the elements energised all the time. Operate the shower by using the pull cord switch until you are able to fix the problem, but remember using the pull cord is a temporary solution. Answered 265 days ago | The Doc
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Q: the shower unit vibrates
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Submitted 315 days ago | by
dave, littleborough
A: Could it just be the noise of the water heating ....Just like a kettle ... Caused by old age Answered 315 days ago | The doc
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Q: after over 20 years of trouble free service, my t80 shower has finally given up the ghost.can you advise which of the current t80 models is the most compatible to easy fixiing at the same site in terms of dimensions and connections.
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Submitted 319 days ago | by
sam, stourbridge, west midlands
Answered 319 days ago | The doc
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Q: Sporadically,the shower will suddenly run cold for a while before again functioning as normal. Any suggestions?
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Submitted 335 days ago | by
Quarry, Newcastle upon Tyne
A: Check that water mains stopcock and any isolation valve in the supply tothe shower are fully open. Check with your water supplier that there has not been a reduction in supply pressure or flow. If above are ok then it is a faulty stabiliser valve which is now obsollete so a new shower is required , our recommended replacement is the Triton T80z which whilst not a direct replacement should be fairly straightforward to install. The appropriate wattage T80z can be ordered online via the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton/electric-showers Answered 334 days ago | Alastair
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Q: i have a triton ts 80 and the water just won't heat up, was wondering if a repair or replace which would be more viable,
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Submitted 338 days ago | by
DD, ayrshire
A: As most parts for this unit are now obsolete would strongly recommend a replacement unit. There is no direct replacement but the Triton T80z will be fairly straightforward to fit, the appropriate wattage unit can be ordered online via the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton/electric-showers Answered 337 days ago | Alastair
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Q: I have a triton T80 it works fine except for water has started to leak from the bottome of the unit . I remember this happening when we first had the shower and triton sent a part witch I think was a piece of plastic pipe to be honest I cannot remember .What could it be , any advice would be appreciated
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Submitted 345 days ago | by
cookey, west midlands
Answered 345 days ago | Alastair
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Q: we can pull the cord for the shower to come on and the light in the socket turns red, but the water won't come out when we turn on at the dial. We have checked the fuse in the main fuse box and it is ok, do you have any idea what could be wrong with it?thanks
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Submitted 348 days ago | by
useless, darwen
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 348 days ago | The Doc
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Q: I have an old Triton T80 shower (about 20 years) which has been trouble free until last week. It suddenly stopped delivering water halfway through a shower. Even the cold water would not work.
At first, I suspected low mains pressure, but I opened the cold tap on the wash basin and this appeared to have normal mains pressure. There was also mains electric power at the shower unit. Turning the on/off selector did result in a short spray for a second or so, but then stopped again completely. After waiting 30 mins, I turned the shower on and it operated normally again.
It has worked fine all week, but today suddenly stopped working again. After reading your forum, I suspect it may be the solenoid valve. I have checked the resistance across its terminals and it reads an open circuit with infinite resistance. Even selecting a more sensitive range on the multimeter showed no value, only an open circuit reading.
Does this sound like a solenoid valve fault? How difficult is it to remove the solenoid valve. I can see that the incoming water supply is connected via a 90 Deg yorkshire elbow, but I'm not sure how the outlet connects to the stab valve above it. Is this just a push fit sealed by an O ring?
I would be grateful for any advice.
Regards,
Mike
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Submitted 352 days ago | by
Mike, Cheshire, UK
Answered 351 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Triton t80i shower. been working fab but we are having some plumbing work done & some sannd got in to pipes. Cleared that but now the on/off button will not switch water off. If there is water in there could this be the problem?
Also are these showers still available in South Africa?
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Submitted 355 days ago | by
Lorraine, South Africa
A: Some solenoids have a filter in the inlet, so I would see if that is blocked. If not check the solenoid. I dont know if The t80i or t80 are available in S.A. The normal fault with a solenoid valve is the coil breaks down, we can supply the coils separately however you have to be careful when changing them over. Turn off the water and power then place two screwdrivers between the base of the coil (usually brown or white) and the base of the solenoid body and ease the old coil off the body. On some units the coil can be replaced without removing the existing solenoid from the shower case on others it will be necessary to remove the valve to fit the new coil. Answered 355 days ago | Bar S
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