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Q: shower will only heat up to 33 deg
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Submitted 26 days ago | by
TH, Wales
A: If the water is absolutely cold then you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs If there is some heat from the shower you could have a faulty Outlet TCO, or a faulty element.
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced. Itmay be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three inmost 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should havea reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. Ifyou don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide onhow to use them for checking and testing the various parts of yourshower. Apartfrom helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checkingyou have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting youknow much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
If these prove to be ok then I would suspect the PCB. Answered 26 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: Thames water carrying out sewer works in area until end May.
Shower fed from mains, no pump. Water pressure on and off (LP) low pressure. Now water not heating, temperature only 14 deg.C. Please advise problem.
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Submitted 65 days ago | by
Unique, London
A: Waterpressure needs to be min 1bar to operate shower properly (anything less and itwill not allow power through to the elements) GiveThames a ring and ask them what the pressure should be in your area. Answered 64 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: There is no display light showing temperature. What bulb do I need and how should it be fitted please
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Submitted 144 days ago | by
delboy, tn37 7bb
A: Thisis part of the cover assembly which is now unfortunately obsolete Answered 142 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Our on /off switch has stopped working it works now and again - which new part do you suggest I get to fit - thanks Kate
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Submitted 150 days ago | by
Kate, Rickmansworth Herts
Answered 144 days ago | Alastair
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Q: The hot water from my Triton spellbind has stopped. The water is only heating to 32 c. What spare parts do I need?
Many Thanks
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Submitted 151 days ago | by
Anonymous, Manchester
Answered 148 days ago | Alastair
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Q: When I turn the shower on at the mains it displays OK.. when I turn the shower on it displays LP, presumably this is Low Pressure. What would fix this. As the shower displays OK when the mains is switched on, can I assume that the circuit board is alright. Allan
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Submitted 199 days ago | by
Allan, Unknown
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower open / close the safety device that allows power through to the elements.
If you are getting no water at all then you may have a faulty solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 199 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: Can anyone help my shower is constantly dripping from the head. I have cleaned it but it still drips.
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Submitted 237 days ago | by
flowergirl, away with the faries
Answered 235 days ago | Alastair
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Q: how do I do a do a tco and pcb test
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Submitted 290 days ago | by
ga, mid glam
A: I don’t know what you want to checkfor on the PCB but I guess that you need to check that the power is going intoit in the correct places and the power going out to the elements solenoid valveetc. Is there when it is called for by the board on the front panel Faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the twoterminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at bothconnections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heatsit cuts the power off to the elements until the water cools, this can take upto 15mins) SeeVideo. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs Answered 290 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: hello.
My triton spellbind 10.5kw shower goes up and down the temp ranges without touching it.
Help
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Submitted 365 days ago | by
KEVB, London
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Answered 365 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi, for a couple of months now i have had cold water trickling out of the shower box itself when the shower has been running. I had a quick look at this and it seemed to be coming from the pressure switch area inside. Anyway, it didnt really affect the operation so left it. However, this week, as soon as i turn the shower on i get the red screen come up saying low pressure. I tried increasing the water pressure at the mains tap under the sink but this has no affect to the shower, still low pressure. I have also checked the hose and shower head for blockages, all fine. Could this be the pressure switch finally giving up the ghost? are there anyother checks i can do?
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Submitted 389 days ago | by
CJ, Sheffield
A: From what you say the pressure switch its self is faulty so I would replace this and as long as the pressure is in fact OK then this should solve the problem. Answered 388 days ago | The doc |
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Q: In the mornings my triton spellbind turns on for a few seconds and then flashes low pressure and the water stops. This sometimes happens in the evening but mainly in the mornings.
It often also fluctautes between about 22C and 49C with out me touching the temperature dial.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Emily
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Submitted 470 days ago | by
Emily, Reading
A: This sounds very like a water supply problem so check with your supplier whether ther has been a reduction in supply pressure or flow.
If you live in a block of flats or similar and are on the top floor or thereabouts then it looks like your shower may be being starved during periods of high usage such as in the morning and possibly in early evening.
Before spending any money on tyhe shower would recommend you get a plumber to check supply conditions. Answered 470 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: Hi, Can you help. Returned from holiday to find shower inop, Switch on power, shower displays blue and reads OK. Press button on shower and trips RCD on consumer unit. There is a possibility that it was frozen while we were away. Sandy.
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Submitted 501 days ago | by
sandy, Wishaw Lanarkshire
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 499 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi, the display is lighting up on my shower but when I press the on button the shower does not work/turn on. I have carried out the TCO test, solenoid valve test (reading of 3.6) and the heating tank test (reading of over 12 on both sides) and all seem to be fine - any other ideas? Thanks.
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Submitted 544 days ago | by
LH
A: As you have tested the TCO and the solenoid it sounds like a faulty PCB Answered 543 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: The shower display lights up in red with the letters CS and the shower will not turn on.
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Submitted 551 days ago | by
LH
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 550 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My Triton shower is around 3.5 years old and is not producing any water at all. The display is all light up but when I presss the power button nothing happens, no noise from inside either, I've cleaned both the filters and still nothing. I've phoned Triton and they seam to think it may be the selonoid or eben the main board.
Would you know does this sound familiar and be the selonoid or do you have any other thoughts??
many thanks
Graeme Spencer
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Submitted 691 days ago | by
Graeme
Answered 691 days ago | Alastair
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Q: My Triton Spellbind shower not produceng hot water.i am not sure what parts to buy?
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Submitted 777 days ago | by
vanya
A: If the water is absolutely cold then you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs If there is some heat from the shower you could have a faulty Outlet TCO, or a faulty element. The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose) Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced. It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 775 days ago | The Doc |
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