Triton Zante

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: 

Itmay be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have areading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

Ifyou don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide onhow to use them for checking and testing the various parts of yourshower.

 

Apartfrom helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checkingyou have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting youknow much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878

Once the fault is diagnosed replacement part(s)can be ordered online via the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-113-Triton-Zante

A: http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83300450-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-Assembly-83300450

The above link shows you the part that I believe you need and how to test this.

A: 

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety devicewill turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

 

Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowingthe correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control tofully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribblethen turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have afaulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

A: Check that the shower hose is not kinked or collapsed internally and the shower head is clear.
Check that incoming mains water stopcock and any isolation valve in feed to shower are fully open.
Check with your supplier if there has been any reduction in water flow or pressure.
Check that gauze filter in inlet to solenoid valve is clear.
If all above are ok then it is likely to be the stabiliser valve at fault and as this is now obsolete and no longer available a new shower is required.
Our recommended replacement is the Triton T80z and the appropriate wattage model can be ordered online via the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton/electric-showers

A: Check the shower hose is not kinked or collapsed internally and the shower head isn clear.
Check that incoming mains water stopcock and any isolation valve in the feed to the shower are fully open.
Check with your supplier if there has been any reduction in supply flow or pressure.
Check that gauze inlet filter in solenoid valve is clear.
If all above are ok then it is likely to be the stabiliser valve at fault and as this is no longer available a new shower is required.
Our recommended replacement is the Triton T80z and the appropriate wattage model can be ordered online via the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton
 

A: The solenoid valve has failed and needs to be replaced , it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83300450-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-Assembly-83300450

A: Thank you for your email.

It could well be your solenoid that is at fault. This part needs to be energised constantly throughout the showering experience to allow water to flow into the shower and out of the shower head. In your case it may have failed in the closed position, thus not allowing water to enter the shower. However, to be sure beyond any reasonable doubt that it is the solenoid at fault, then this part needs to be tested using a digital multimeter. When tested, a solenoid should display a resistance reading across its two terminals of at least 3.5k ohms. If the reading obtained is any less than this, then the solenoid will need to be replaced.

Nb. Remember to check the solenoid in its failed state; i.e. when the shower is not working.

Should you require a new solenoid then please follow the link below to order this part from our website...

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83300450-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-Assembly-83300450

I hope that this helps you out.

Regards,

Michael.
The Shower Doctor.

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

A: When it stops check there is aminimum of 230volts at the connector block in the unit , if not then the isolation switch has gone high resistance and needs replaced.
If power ok then it is almost certainly the dolenoid coil ar fault , replacement can be ordered online by clicking on this link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/HYDR-27600-Hydra-universal-Solenoid-Coil-(no-Valve)-27600

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

Also as it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced.

A: The solenoid valve has failed open and needs to be replaced , it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83300450-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-Assembly-83300450

A: When it stops working check there is a minimum of 230volts at rhe connector block in thhe shower, if nnot then the isolation switch has goe high resistence and needs to be replaced.
If the power is ok then it is the solenoid coil at fault, replacement can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/HYDR-27600-Hydra-Universal-Solenoid-Coil-(no-Valve)-27600

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878

Once the fault is diagnosed replacement part(s)can be ordered online via the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-113-Triton-Zante

A: It could be a faulty plate/ceiling switch.

A: 

Not possible to answer The insulation on different cables has varied over the years  

 

The only way to be sure is to remove the cable from the terminal block and measure the thickness of the core!

 

 

A: Check that mains stopcock and any isolation valve in the supply to the shower are fully open.
Check gauze filter in inlet to solenoid valve is clear.
If all above are ok then it is likely to be the solenoid valve ay fault and should be replaced.
It can be ordered online by click ing on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83300450-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-Assembly-83300450

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

A: Up to 9.5kw the cable size MUST be 6.0sqmm and for 10.5kw it should be 10sqmm.