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Q: When is shower is turned on, water gushes out bottom left of unit, is this worth repairing
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Submitted 20 days ago | by
Wend, Lewes. East Susses
A: Read the whole of the link below,
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/electric-showers/TRITO-82800450-Triton-Pressure-Relief-Device-82800450 Answered 17 days ago | Barrie
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Q: Have a Zante II.
Typically get 3 or 4 mins before shower cuts out...if it is left for 20 mins it will work again..for another few mins
Low pressure light is permanently on, have checked mains pressure (2 bar), and checked the flow between cold and hot, where there is a noticeable change when switching between them.
Just before this all happended, there was a period of irregular operation..ie temp increasing and decreasing as you had a shower.
Any advice would be appreciated.
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Submitted 58 days ago | by
Graham, Fife
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you havea multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failedstate.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is notoperating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The videois intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checkingand testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are reallyuseful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fusesand letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of otherjobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 58 days ago | The Doc
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Q: pressure lights not working and water not adjusting correctly
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Submitted 74 days ago | by
jeff, bh1 1qj
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety devicewill turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowingthe correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control tofully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribblethen turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have afaulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
Answered 73 days ago | The Doc
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Q: low presure no lights water comming from head also from side ?
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Submitted 86 days ago | by
g, ip32
A: Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve Answered 84 days ago | Barrie
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Q: water temperature goes hot and cold which part needs replacing
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Submitted 102 days ago | by
Anonymous, home
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety devicewill turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowingthe correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control tofully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribblethen turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have afaulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
Also as it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO
The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going toit and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank andthe hose) Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs ofoverheating then the TCO needs replaced. Answered 102 days ago | The Doc
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Q: the shower stopped let water out although there is power to it and the low pressure warning light is on any ideas?
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Submitted 113 days ago | by
Simon, Warrington
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you havea multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failedstate.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is notoperating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The videois intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checkingand testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are reallyuseful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fusesand letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of otherjobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 110 days ago | The doc
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Q: shower heats water ok but pressure from head has dropped considerably.Have cleaned head of all limescale but still no difference, any thoughts on this please.
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Submitted 128 days ago | by
Tonypcarey, Bexhill east sussex
A: It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 127 days ago | The doc
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Q: is it easy to change this assembly on a triton zante 2.
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Submitted 181 days ago | by
Anonymous, cumbria
A: Sorry for the delay The replacement is fairly straight forward.
Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantle most of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part out and the new part in. This sounds more difficult than it actually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc. come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos as you go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding. Answered 172 days ago | The Doc
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Q: My shower is not heating the water. We are thinking of buying a new one but it is no longer available - if we buy the Triton Zante III will it fit on the current pipe work?
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Submitted 226 days ago | by
Nikki, Essex
A: The units are very similar but not exactly the same the MK 3 version is about 10mm shorter Answered 226 days ago | The Doc
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Q: the power selector has three positions-on cold works ok, on economy works ok, soon as i turn to high it blows a fuse in the main fuse box under stairs.
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Submitted 226 days ago | by
zaceboy, preston
A: Almost certainly one of the elements in your heating tank is faulty, see below for how to check. It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 226 days ago | The Doc
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Q: customers LP light is permanently on, shower seems to operate normally any sugestions
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Submitted 371 days ago | by
a, horsham, west sussex
A: If it is operating normally it may be that the actuator is not hitting the micro switch that operates the light correctly. The actuator is on top of the stabilizer/solenoid valve Answered 369 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Can i still buy a new triton zante 11 electric shower
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Submitted 376 days ago | by
me, herts
A: I am afraid not, the parts are still available but not as a complete unit Answered 374 days ago | The Doc
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Q: when the shower is on the 2nd heat setting and on a low to mid number the water is too hot , even on the first heat setting we cant have it on a high number setting, could this be down to lime scale in the heat canister ?
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Submitted 378 days ago | by
dano, telford , shropshire
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly. The other things to check are that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally Answered 374 days ago | The doc
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Q: We have this nice Triton Zante II. After a couple of years our shower start to get blocked with limescale. The watter starts to get really hot, even in a low level setting (2 or 3). Our solution has been: Get the shower head off; Opening the shower in a cold setting and let it run for a few minutes. A lot of limescale comes out. Clean the shower head with a pin and put all back together again. We have to do that every couple days now. After this procedure is almost like new.
How can I fix that??
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Submitted 436 days ago | by
AAntunes, Eye, Suffolk
Answered 435 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Will the pressure relief device on a zante 2 fit a zante 3 - they are the same part number
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Submitted 438 days ago | by
paulr, telford
Answered 437 days ago | Bar S
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Q: Water does not stop running when switched 'Off'.
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Submitted 516 days ago | by
dave, Coulsdon, CR5 2HF
Answered 516 days ago | Alastair
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Q: how do you get your low pressure light to go out once solenoid has been replaced have followed the instructions to a T has all been blead through as described but light wont go out and no hot water it all happened since united utilities turned off mains in the street. its driving me mad any advise would be greatly appreciated. also noticed shower unit making a strange buzzing sound which i don;t recall from before lock out.
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Submitted 710 days ago | by
Paul H
A: Since you have replaced the stab/solenoidf valve assy I would suggest you ask the utility co. to carry out a pressure test on the incoming mains supply.
Answered 709 days ago | Alastair
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