Triton Zante II

A: Read the whole of the link below,

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/electric-showers/TRITO-82800450-Triton-Pressure-Relief-Device-82800450

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you havea multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failedstate.) (When it has stopped working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is notoperating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The videois intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checkingand testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are reallyuseful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fusesand letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of otherjobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

 

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety devicewill turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

 

Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowingthe correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control tofully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribblethen turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have afaulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

 

A: 

Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer  valve

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety devicewill turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

 

Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowingthe correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control tofully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribblethen turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have afaulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

Also as it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going toit and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank andthe hose)
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs ofoverheating then the TCO needs replaced.

 

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you havea multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failedstate.) (When it has stopped working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is notoperating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The videois intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checkingand testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are reallyuseful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fusesand letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of otherjobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

 

A: 

It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have amultimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: 

Sorry for the delay

 The replacement is fairly straight forward.

Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantle most of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part out and the new part in.

 

This sounds more difficult than it actually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc. come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos as you go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding.

 

 

 

A: 

The units are very similar but not exactly the same the MK 3 version is about 10mm shorter

A: 

Almost certainly one of the elements in your heating tank is faulty, see below for how to check.

 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

 

A: 

If it is operating normally it may be that the actuator is not hitting the micro switch that operates the light correctly.

 

The actuator is on top of the stabilizer/solenoid valve  

A: I am afraid not, the parts are still available but not as a complete unit

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly.

The other things to check are that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

A: 

 If you are having that much bother then it may be worth considering a Galaxy Scalemaster shower

 

All of the showers here with the suffix si have lime scale protection.

 

http://shower-warehouse.com/showers/galaxy/electric-showers

 

(There are two pages)

A: 

The prd of a Triton Zante 2 is the same as a Triton Zante 3

 

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-82800450-Triton-Pressure-Relief-Device-82800450

A: Check if the water stops when the power to the shower is switched off, if it does not then the solenoid valve needs to be replaced, it can be ordered online by clicking on this link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-P12120800-Stabiliser-valve-and-solenid-assembly

If the water does stop with power off then it is the power selector at fault and it can be ordered via this link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-S12121008-Power-selector-including-microswitches

A: Since you have replaced the stab/solenoidf valve assy I would suggest you ask the utility co. to carry out a pressure test on the incoming mains supply.