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Q: My Triton T80si flows slowly in the highest pressure level
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Submitted 3 days ago | by
rew, Cork
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs. http://www.showerdoc.com/tools-and-fittings/installation-items/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 1 day ago | The doc |
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Q: has to be on full setting to get hot water
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Submitted 6 days ago | by
Anonymous, Unknown
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878 Also check the outlet thermal cut out mounted on the outlet pipe for continuity.
Any parts required can be ordered online via this link.
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-12-Triton-T80si Answered 5 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: The shower goes from very hot to cool, then back to hot.
I have already replaced the outlet pipe assembly and wiring.
I have checked the elements. Both are good, but power is intermittent to the second one.
I have also checked the hose and that the head is clean.
The stabiliser valve also seems to be working correctly.
Does this sound like a faulty switching module assy?
Thanks for your help
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Submitted 8 days ago | by
Garry, Woking
Answered 8 days ago | Alastair A: We are having a problem at the moment with our ticketing systemit is running words together, we have people working on it!! The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety devicewill turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again Make sure that the shower head is clean andclear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand setwhere it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it canlook OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
If all the above are OK you could give your local water authority a ringan ask them what your water pressure should be, they will probably say that thesupply a minimum of 1bar (the minimum required to operate ashower)however press them and ask what it is likely to be first thing in themorning (when everybody is showering) They could have the pressure turned down because they areworking on the main, or because there is a burst pipe some where and they haveturned the pressure down to try to save water, or the pressure maybe low justbecause there is a burst pipe somewhere, that hasn’t been discovered yet! Answered 8 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi my lovely Triton T80si thermal cut-out has died, tried and tested! The original part number it 22008310.
Can i replace it with part number
22009860?
Jo
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Submitted 11 days ago | by
Jo, Lancashire
Answered 8 days ago | Alastair
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Q: i have power to the pull cord but no light on the shower and the shower will not operate
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Submitted 17 days ago | by
Anonymous, Tamworth
A: This could be a faulty pullcord or youmay have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the twoterminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at bothconnections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heatsit cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs Answered 15 days ago | The doc |
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Q: My shower has recently reduced the flow of water from very good to moderate still enough for a shower but not as good as it was. The heat has also reduced - I usually run it on No.7 but that is now just luke warm.
What could be the problem
Bee
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Submitted 18 days ago | by
Bee, Bromsgrove, Worcs
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Q: Hi. My solenoid resistance is at 3.7 K-ohms, which I understand is correct, but the shower will not switch on. There is no dripping from the showerhead. Could the solenoid still be faulty even though the resistance is correct? Or is it likely to be solenoid valve assembly? Or Something else? Thanks.
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Submitted 19 days ago | by
Terry, iozel1@yahoo.co.uk
A: Can you check and make sure that there is power getting tothe solenoid valve, it is just possible that you have a problem with theswitching assembly and there is no power getting to the solenoid. Answered 15 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi, the problem I am having with my shower is when the top dial is on the hot II (2 marks) setting the water temperature fluctuates between scalding hot to freezing cold every 10-20 seconds if the lower dial is above 5-6 (anything lower is freezing cold). If I then turn it down to hot I (1 mark) I can get a nice constant temperature but I have to have it above the number 9, you can hear something click when you pass 9 before you start gettin hot water but then the water flow is pretty terrible. Stop cock and valve on the supply are both fully open. Could it be a faulty Thermal cut out? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Regards
Kevin
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Submitted 25 days ago | by
Kev Thompson, Newcastle
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety devicewill turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowingthe correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control tofully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribblethen turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have afaulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
Answered 22 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Sometimes during use, the heat will just fade away as if I'd turned the power switch to 'cold'. The power neon remains on, the water pressure window remains green.
If I turn the shower to a cooler setting, this will hasten the switching back on of heat. I'm only using it at mid-range temp (5 or 6), and would say the problem occurs more at higher settings.
If there's enough flow (window green) and power on (neon on) then I'm guessing that the Thermal Cut-Out could be wrongly cutting in too soon. Is this likely?
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Submitted 26 days ago | by
Roy22, Birmingham
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allowspower through to the elements After you have checked theabove have a look at the outlet TCO The outlet Thermal Cut Outthis is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the outlet pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs ofoverheating then the TCO needs replaced. Answered 25 days ago | The doc |
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Q: Thank you for your answer. Sorry I confused you, I just placed the black probe of the multimeter on one of the element rod connectors with the blue wire and the red probe of the multimeter on one of the element rod connectors with the brown wire.
Anyway I tried it your way, black multimeter probe on where the black wire comes in on the large connector block and then touched each of the element rods with the brown wires and get resistance readings of 12.1 and 15.9.
As the elements appear OK I then tested each component in the chain supplying power to the heater elements. So with shower LIVE and turned on I placed black multimeter probe on large connector block where black wire comes in (as above) and touched the brown wire connector going in to the thermal cut out (got reading of 240 V), going out of the TCO (still got 240 V), then the brown wires going into the two microswitches on the power selector assembly (got 240 V for both) and then the same coming out to the elements (got 240 V for ONE ONLY, other was zero), this was confirmed by then touching the elements brown wires and getting 240 V for one (the one with 15.9 resistance above) and O V for the other (one with 12.1 resistance). Thus it appears that one of the microswitches is not closing to provide power to one of the elements. Am I right in thinking this? If so how come I am not getting some heat from the shower for the other element that is getting power? Anyway do I therefore need to order part 82500210, switching module assembly with actuator and microswitches? Thanks once again for your help.
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Submitted 26 days ago | by
Dave, Edinburgh
A: Yes sounds like a faulty micro switch. You may well find out that you are still getting some heatturn the shower up to max heat and as long as you have reasonable pressure youwill find that there is a little heat in the water. Answered 25 days ago | The doc |
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Q: My shower is not heating the water. If you turn it up to highest setting 10 it is very luke warm, essentially though it is cold.
I have gone through your instructions to test the heater can assembly, thermal cut out and solenoid valve with my digital multitester but still cannot work out what is wrong, so do not know what to order. Can you help any further please? My gut instinct is that as there is no hot water that the heater assembly has gone. The following is what happens when I test with my multimeter.
Solenoid valve: multimeter reads 3.75 ohms
TCO: multimeter beeps continuously showing continuity
Heater tank: this doesn't work as you indicate in your instructions. There are 4 rods (Blue wired R1 & R2; Brown wired R3 & R4). When checking for continuity to determine pairs of blue/brown wired rods I get a continuous beep no matter which ones I connect together! When I check for resistance I get readings of 16 and 12.1 ohms when connecting the two sets of rods (R1 + R3; R2 + R4). If I then pair the rods the other way around (R1 + R4; R2 + R3) I get readings of 12.1 and 15.8 ohms.
Tanks for any help.
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Submitted 28 days ago | by
Anonymous, Unknown
A: Your resistance readings appeared to suggest that theelements are OK however I am not sure that I fully understand your descriptionof how you checked The simple method is below With the power off Put the black probe into the large connector block that theblack wire goes to. Put the red probe on to the rods that come out of theheating tank that the brown or red wires go to, then check the resistancereading. If you still have good resistance on both elements thencheck that you are getting power to both elements (you could have a faultymicro switch not allowing the power through to the elements) Answered 28 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: when pull cord is turned on the power light will illuminate on the shower but when you press the start button the light goes out on the shower and the shower does not come on.
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Submitted 64 days ago | by
marc, ipswich
Answered 62 days ago | The doc
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Q: Hi,
Last weekend I had a leaking radiator and had to drain the central heating system. I have a combi boiler, but am assuming this shower will be gravity fed from the tank in the attic.
Anyway, since the day the plumber came to fix the leak, literally everything in the house works just as it should, bar the shower. The plumber thinks it one of life's great coincidences, and maybe it is - but I am tearing my hair out trying to resolve the problem. The unit turns on perfectly, and when the 'on' button is pressed on the shower the pump operate but not a single drop of water is expelled. I've tried replacing the solenoid coil bought from you, but this hasn't worked, and also tried re-priming the unit but even then no water comes out of the thin plastic tube.
Please help!!
Thanks, Peter.
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Submitted 68 days ago | by
Pete, Oldham
A: Sorry for the delay in replying. The T80i should be connected to the water mains not to the tank in the attic. I must say I am a little puzzled as to why it wont work. Is there power getting to the shower? Is there water getting to the shower? Could the plumber have turned something off? And the final reasons is no power getting to the solenoid or the solenoid is faulty. Can you check these things first and if that doesn’t resolve the problem then gety back to us Answered 63 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: The shower is running at an ok temperature for around 30 secs then going cold, esp if move the outlet hose and head. Have to keep turning up the temperature every 30 seconds.
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Submitted 69 days ago | by
Anonymous, Edinburgh
A: Sorry for the delay in replying.
The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allows power through to the elements
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Answered 63 days ago | The doc |
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Q: The water on my triton T80si comes on for a few minutes then for no reason goes off,then it comes on and off irregularly and then it may just stopand won't come back on again. Does this sound like the solenoid?
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Submitted 73 days ago | by
Dai, Wales.
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 64 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Used to give a good temperature at medium heat setting, but now runs cold. it has a small amount of heat at high heat setting.
Any ideas what part i'll need?
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Submitted 76 days ago | by
chris, london
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. if you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.
If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878
Also check the outlet thermal cut out on the outlet pipe Answered 75 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: T80si installed and running for over three years. Stopped using shower due to electrical burning smell. When taken cover off both negative connections on the heater can assembly have obviously heated up and started to melt. Is this failure of part on the shower or with mains wiring/ shower switch?
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Submitted 77 days ago | by
Rich22, Bradford
A: It sounds like a fault with the wiring I would cut out the defective sections of wire and renew. Make sure you use the same size of heat resistant cable Answered 75 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: The washers on my shower needs replaceing but the hose iv brought does not fit the shower unit, is there a special hose/washer for this unit?
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Submitted 78 days ago | by
mickey, Deal, Kent
A: The hoses are all pretty standard however on occasions you have to fit two washers at one end or the other. Answered 78 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Crazy, but recently the isolator switch light goes off when the shower is switch is pressed in. Power light shows on the shower when button is in the outmost postion. No water or noise comes from the shower. Pressing the button on the shower inwards stops electricity from flowing from the isolator (ie the red light is off on the isolation switch). If the shower button is outmost then the red light on the isolator switch glows red but duller than nromal.
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Submitted 91 days ago | by
Isolated-G, E11
Answered 91 days ago | The Doc
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Q:
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Submitted 111 days ago | by
yarmite, yarm
A: Hi Peter Yes you do need the solenoid valve assembly, the coil isonly for electrical failure. I did say the “solenoid valve” in my reply I usually mentionthe coil if I think it is the coil however I can see how some confusion couldcreep in. I’ll have our IT guys alter the Important Information abovethe video clip just to make it a little more obvious. Regards George Answered 111 days ago | The Doc A: Hi Peter Yes you do need the solenoid valve assembly, the coil isonly for electrical failure. I did say the “solenoid valve” in my reply I usually mentionthe coil if I think it is the coil however I can see how some confusion couldcreep in. I’ll have our IT guys alter the Important Information abovethe video clip just to make it a little more obvious. Regards George Answered 111 days ago | The doc A: The solenoid coil only opens the valve and does not close it , it is closed by an internal spring when the coil is de-energised. In all cases of a dripping shower the whole valve must be replaced. Answered 111 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: is it safe to leave pullcord in on position as ours has been on for ten years on advice of installer as cord kept breaking and can i get soapdish glasgow area
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Submitted 111 days ago | by
johnbelle, glasgow
A: This is the same question as should you unplug the TV,Video, computer, kettle, toaster, and on and on and on, yes of course youshould but in the real world not many do, as long as there is nothing wrongwith your electrics then other than the neon using power it is fine. I don’t know about Glasgow but you can get soap dishes onour site here. http://www.showerdoc.com/bathroom-products/soap-dishes Answered 111 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: When the shower is operating water is coming out from the connection between the head and the hose. I've unscrewed the head from the hose and the rubber washer looks fairly sound. Any ideas? Thanks.
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Submitted 115 days ago | by
jsherrington, Lancs
Answered 114 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Shower continues to drip even when switched off. What can cause this and what would I need to replace to fix.
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Submitted 118 days ago | by
yarmite, yarm
Answered 118 days ago | The Doc
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Q: The T80si shower was recently installed as a direct replacement for a Zante. The shower runs ok and turns off ok. However, if it is run again shortly afterwards, cold water comes out for about 1 minute before it warms up again to the previous temperature. Is this normal? It's a lot of wasted water when you're on a meter.
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Submitted 122 days ago | by
rvandjc, Poole, UK
A: As the T80si is not a phased shut down unit when switched off the residual heat in the elements over heats the water in the tank and causes the thermal cut out to operate and it reuires the flow of cold water to reset before power is restored to the heating elements , this is quite normal. Answered 121 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: My shower was working fine for my wife then shortly after i went to use it and nothing.
If i turn the shower on and then pull the pull cord on the outside of the shower to the on position the on led on the shower unit blinks faintly.
if the shower is switched off and the pull cord led is switched on and illuminated, once i switch on the shower the pull cord led goes out.
I have checked the conection in the power supply (the pull cord unit) and all fine.
Any help with this would be great....
Thanks Mark.
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Submitted 140 days ago | by
Anonymous, Whitworth
A: From your description the pullcord has gone high resistence the only way to check this is to measure the voltage at the connector block in the shower , anything below 230volts and you need a new pull switch Answered 138 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: power light on. shower not working
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Submitted 149 days ago | by
mic, kings lynn norfolk
A: I presume you mean by not working that you mean you have no water? It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 148 days ago | The doc |
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Q: What is the common cause for it to discharge water through the discharge pipe?
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Submitted 167 days ago | by
Anonymous, Unknown
Answered 166 days ago | The Doc
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Q: rcd keeps tripping after 30 sec of running with a loud buzzing from rcd. New installation.
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Submitted 177 days ago | by
Anonymous, Unknown
A: If the fault is with the RCD then I would suspect a faulty pull cord switch if it is not the switch then I think you need an electrician If however it is the MCB that is tripping then it may be that it is rated too low for the new shower. Answered 176 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: On high pressure setting even when the temperature is set on cold,the water flow is still very hot. The temperature cannot be controled
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Submitted 192 days ago | by
Donny, West Sussex
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
Answered 190 days ago | The doc |
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Q: When the isolation switch is turned on the power light comes on, when the start button is pressed, the power light goes off and the shower does not work but the isolation switch stays on and works.
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Submitted 212 days ago | by
Whiteboardmarker, Ireland
A: This could be a few things first check that there no wires overheating inside the unitif they are OK then check the solenoid. It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester If the solenoid id OK then check the isolation switch for overheating wires. Answered 211 days ago | The doc |
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Q: Hello, I have a T80si that trips out the Mains once the on button has been pushed.
On insepection the Terminal Block (Part 7) has been burnt out.
I thought it may have been a loose wire so I replaced this with a similar Terminal block and tried it again and the same thing happens.
Any suggestions?
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Submitted 225 days ago | by
colough, Ireland
A: C It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 225 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: still waiting for reply - ref 13722 and 19518
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Submitted 229 days ago | by
freddy, rossendale lancashire
A: Good morning, Thank you for your enquiry. Before ordering a slider bracket it is important to measure the diameter of the pole on to which you are going to place this part. This is important because Triton have manufactured several of these parts, all to suit different diameters of pole. Once you have obtained the relevant measurements, please follow the link below where you will find a part to suit... http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/slider-brackets/tritonI hope that this helps you out. Regards, The Shower Doctor. Answered 229 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: The unit power light is on but when the start/stop button is pressed the power light goes out and the shower doesn't work.
I'm assuming something is shorting out but all wires appear OK so would like to know which components to check and how.
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Submitted 234 days ago | by
Scottp, Hampshire
Answered 232 days ago | The Doc
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Q: The water is running fine when the thermostat is set to cold but as I begin to dial up the temperature to hot the flow drops off to a dribble. The water does get hotter but as I say the flow drops off. Can you give me an indication of what teh problem may be please?
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Submitted 241 days ago | by
Tommy, Co. Cork Ireland
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 239 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: wate will not switch off
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Submitted 243 days ago | by
abler, weymouth
Answered 243 days ago | Anonymous
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Q: I have a Triton T80si and recently have had to turn it right up to get any hot water but the flow is not as good as it was.
I have checked the elements - both read around 12 ohms
I have checked the TCO and there is good continuity across it.
Could it be the stabiliser valve?
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Submitted 265 days ago | by
andart, Durham
A: Can you check that you are getting power to both elements? From what you say it could be a faulty micro switch not allowing power to one of the elements. Answered 265 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: I have a Triton T80Si that works fine but when turned to cold appears to be leaking. When cover is off for inspection water appears to be leaking from several places but mostly visible from Pressure relief valve area.
Is this the likely fault or could it be the heater unit?
Any advice appreciated
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Submitted 275 days ago | by
Keith, London
A: The problem really is just to try and locate the leaks. If you think it is from the pressure relief device then I would replace that the other fairly common place for a leak is the top of the flow / stabilizer valve Answered 274 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: I identifed that above product number as being that part that I require but can't seem to order this on line. Is this part available and how much does it cost please.
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Submitted 281 days ago | by
Terri Summers, Ipswich, Suffolk
Answered 280 days ago | The doc
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Q: Hello Triton,please advise,can i get a replacement soap dish for this shower,i require a round one,or an updated replacement,it must be round because of limited space?
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Submitted 286 days ago | by
jiffyb46, ashford kent uk
Answered 285 days ago | LC
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Q: Switch on shower , water begins to flow then cuts off to a dribble after a few seconds.
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Submitted 299 days ago | by
Vin, Ashton under lyne , lanc's
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 298 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: my water pressure drops when i turn the temperature up .
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Submitted 311 days ago | by
lee, margate kent
A: This is the way an electric shower works you alter the temperature is by varying the amount of water that passes over the element, pass the water over the element slowly (a little water) and it gets very hot, pass it over quickly (a high flow rate) and it doesn’t have time to pick up much heat. However if the amount of water coming from the shower is unacceptably small then you may have a faulty element. It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 309 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: is part number 83306190 still available?
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Submitted 311 days ago | by
rusky, Dublin
Answered 309 days ago | The Doc
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Q: I need an outlet assembly for above piping only your diagram only shows the wire assembly
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Submitted 312 days ago | by
fel, Perth PH1 1HR
A: The outlet pipe comes complete with the TCO and the wires.
(The wires are now welded to the TCO) Answered 312 days ago | The doc |
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Q: Hi I have a T80si 9.5Kw power light on but no water? Any ideas????
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Submitted 319 days ago | by
lance, caldicot
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 316 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: every time you turn the shower on the fuse trips
can you help
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Submitted 321 days ago | by
pete, heathrow
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 321 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: HI PLEASE COULD YOU HELP WITH MY SHOWER PROBLEM.POWER IS TRIPPING OFF AS SOON AS START SWITCH IS PRESSED. TOOK COVER AND NO LEAKS. SLIGHT CORROSION ON OUTLET PIPE ASSEMBLEY TERMINALS. THIS WAS FROM A LEAK LAST YEAR WHEN I HAD TO FIT A NEW STABILISER VALVE ASSEMBLEY. CLEANED TERMINALS UP BUT STILL TRIPPING ANY SUGGESTIONS PLEASE
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Submitted 328 days ago | by
PAUL, UK - BRITISH CITIZEN (GBR)
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 327 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: why does the solonoid valve keep burning out on these shower units,,i have had 3 different t80's and after 18 months or so they all burn the valve out,,,is there anything i can do to prevent this and what is the reason they do?? Many Thanks in advance
Peter
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Submitted 340 days ago | by
geek, newport
A: The usual cause of this is water occasionally dripping down on them from the stabilizer valve. It can be difficult to see sometimes all you can see is a residue that has dried on to the top of the solenoid Answered 340 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: The temperature control knob is continually rotating and the water is coming out slowly but boiling hot. Do I need a new stabiliser valve assembly? Please advise.
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Submitted 340 days ago | by
Stuart, Denbigh
A: Yes you either have a problem with the stab valve or the knob is broken and not engaging the stab valve properly. If it is the knob that is at fault then unfortunately this is part of the front cover assembly. Answered 340 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: There is a tiny pin hole in the diaphragm rubber, is this the cause of the leak? If so, can I purchase the internal diaphragm rubber only or do I have to purchase the complete unit?
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Submitted 341 days ago | by
Trixie, Swansea, S. Wales
Answered 341 days ago | Alastair
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Q: why do i need to turn the dial to maximum 10 in order to get hot water from my shower when i used to only have to turn it to 6 or 7. when turned upto 10 the water pressure is poor
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Submitted 350 days ago | by
funky, glasgow
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 349 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Replaced old spray head due to age and limescale, blew the headplate off, replaced with another and did it again, replaced with Triton genuine part and is trying too do the same! Won't last much longer! Any ideas please? (Shower working fine in all other areas)
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Submitted 350 days ago | by
Gill, Somerset
A: Never heard of a shower doing this before! Especially an electric shower! If there was that much pressure it would normally blow the pressure relief valve. Would it be possible to send a photo or better still a video clip, if you have difficulty attaching them to a ticket then here is my email address. gt@showerdoc.co.uk Answered 350 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: water leaks out of hose when shower is off. what can the problem be
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Submitted 351 days ago | by
the beaut, ireland
A: The temptation is to say it is a faulty hose, however you are sure that the leak is actually coming from the hose. Answered 350 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Shower on normal setting with Hi flow [two elements], water at correct temperature for approx 20 seconds then goes cold then after approx 20 seconds gets hot and so on!
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Submitted 366 days ago | by
John, GB
Answered 363 days ago | Alastair
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Q: I would like to buy sprayhead holder for tritinT80si, I'm wondering how much will cost.Thanx-viola
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Submitted 370 days ago | by
viola, kidlington,UK
Answered 365 days ago | Alastair
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Q: how do i take the spray bit off to clean the holes
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Submitted 374 days ago | by
edge, enderby
Answered 371 days ago | Alastair
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Q: triton shower 2 seconds hot then freezing cold then back to hot and vice verser
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Submitted 381 days ago | by
marje, cheshire
A: This could be a water flow problem. Check with your water supplier if there has been a reduction in pressure or flow in the mains supply Check that hose is not kinked or collapsed internally and the head is clear. Check mains stopcock and any isolation valve in the supply to the shower are fully open. Check the gauze filter in the solenoid valve is clear. If all above are ok it is likely to be the stabiliser valve at fault, replacement can be ordered online by clicking on the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-82600550-Triton-Stabiliser-Valve-Assembly-(7-5-8-5-9-5kw)-82600550 Answered 379 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: When i turn the shower on i have no hot water at all. I have tried all settings on the shower but no change the water temp. Which part or parts would be required?
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Submitted 382 days ago | by
Eggy1982, Basildon,Essex
A: If it is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs If there is a little heat. It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 379 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi,
The stabilising valve in my T80Si is leaking and the water seems to be coming through a few of the 6 screw holes. I've taken all the screws out, taken the cover off, checked the o-ring seal is properly in place, replaced the screws and tightened, but it's still leaking. I've tried putting some sealant around the leaking holes but the water still gets through.
Is it easy to replace the stabilising valve unit (£27) or would I be better getting a new shower (£150)? Can't see how much of the shower I'd have to take apart if I just replaced the valve so any help much appreciated.
Thanks, Oz
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Submitted 393 days ago | by
Oz, Sheffield
A: The replacement is fairly straight forward.
Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantle most of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part out and the new part in. This sounds more difficult than it actually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc. come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos as you go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding. Answered 392 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Shower works on one red bar on the temperature control, when I switch it to 2 red bars it trips my RCD on the main electric board, any suggestions as to the fault
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Submitted 394 days ago | by
waldo, Stafford Staff's
A: Almost certainly a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 393 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi
Power on indicator is on and when you press the Start/stop button to start only cold water comes out. It does not matter what you do with the temperature control dial only cold water comes out. Any thoughts. It sounds to me like the heating element in the shower has gone or whatever you call it. Or might it be something else?
Peter
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Submitted 400 days ago | by
Peter, Worcester Park
A: If it is absolutely cold I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs If there is some heat It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 398 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: how do I clean the filter.
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Submitted 404 days ago | by
omer, ireland
A: You will find the filter in the solenoid valve assembly valve where the water enters the the shower through item no 9 the inlet solenoid valve. See diagram below:  Answered 404 days ago | SD |
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Q: My T80si shower keeps going cold intermittently. It can be OK for the full shower or sometimes goes cold three or four times during the shower. When it does go cold no-one is using water elsewhere in the house so it's not low pressure. The flow rate at the shower head doesn't seem to change. Can you give me a clue?
Thanks
Martyn Walker
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Submitted 405 days ago | by
Enselder86, Sheffield
A: If the shower is cycling hot and cold then it sounds like lack of water presure to the shower or one of the following below? Things to check for: Lack of water pressure to the shower (Check Stop tap is fully open supplying the shower)
A leak inside the shower (Check the pressure switch diaphragm on the stabiliser valve at the top for leaks)
Wire terminals inside melting? (Check the TCO on the outlet pipe under the can and any other terminals visible)
The Outlet TCO on the outlet pipe is a usual suspect due to the terminals not having a good connection causing the wires to arch amnd melt, if this is the case then you need to replace the outlet pipe with TCO ( Item no 10) from this link provided to your shower - http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-12-Triton-T80si
If the shower goes cold and stays cold for about 10-15 mins then it sounds like the TCO on top of the heater can is cutting in a nd the shower is over heating and causing this problem.
This could be down to a stabiliser valve problem.
Answered 404 days ago | SD |
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Q: My triton T80si shower had no power, after testing found the thermal cut out to be faulty. Ordered a replacement part from yourselves and fitted part, the shower came on for a few seconds, the water was piping hot straight away, with the dial set to 7. Turned shower off, when I tried to turn it back on it would not come on, retested tco and it appears to have blown once again. Could it have been a faulty tco or is there another issue causing the problem?
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Submitted 410 days ago | by
Phil, Hampshire
A: Sounds like you have a switch that is stuck in the on position this is keeping the power on to the elements even when you switch off. The thermal cut out is then switching the power off to the elements unfortunately above a certain temperature the TCO will not reset. Answered 404 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: The shower operates correctly for a few minutes then trips the RCD.
Have checked the heating elements and both have resistance of 12 ohms.There are no visible problems or indications of tracking wth any of the components.
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Submitted 411 days ago | by
Robert, Livingston
A: If it is the RCD and not an MCB that it is tripping then that suggests an electrical fault, it may be something in the pull cord (Isolation) switch that is faulty also it could be the insulation in the heating elements braking down or an electrical fault elsewhere, you would need a Megger to test for this. Answered 410 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: after reading though this fab site have worked out the 2nd heating element has gone (works fine on cold and power 1, as soon as you select power 2 it trips)
if i order a new heating box, how tricky is it toi change, the wiring looks straight forward, but is the water connection from the rest of shower just a push fit ???
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Submitted 412 days ago | by
ibstar, norwick, uk
A: The replacement is fairly straight forward.
Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantle most of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part out and the new part in.
This sounds more difficult than it actually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc. come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos as you go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding.
Also with the heating can replacement it is vital to make sure that the water entry spigot enters the flow valve absolutely straight or it may leak.
One of the tips our engineers use is to slip the old ‘O’ ring on as well as the new one so in effect you have a double ‘O’ ring this helps to keep everything lined up. Answered 411 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Water is leaking
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Submitted 419 days ago | by
Helen, Cardiff
Answered 418 days ago | The Doc
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Q: The water gets too hot, then goes completely cold, then comes back on too hot again and carries on this cycle. Which part do I need to replace, please?
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Submitted 421 days ago | by
oska, Halifax
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
Also if it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO
The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced. Answered 420 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Dear Shower Doc
when temp turned to about 7 or 8 T80SI starts to make an overly aerated sound then after short while low pressure warning shows and water cuts out.
unit can be used again after 30mins. water flow on cold normal.
Solenoid resistance 3.73
TCO continuity fine
230v getting to unit
Any suggestions very gratefully received!!
thanks
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Submitted 421 days ago | by
Andy, Liverpool
A: The noise you are hearing is Kettling not necessarily a bad thing but can point to a lack of water supply.
The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allows power through to the elements.
Are you checking the resistance on the solenoid immediately after the water stops flowing?
Answered 421 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Water continually drips from the shower even when all power switched off, can you tell me what part I need to replace please?
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Submitted 424 days ago | by
shakey, bishops stortford
Answered 424 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Hi, i have an old school T80SI. Dont have much pressure in the area I live in and also don't have a water tank. Only have a boiler. The water temperature keeps going either really hot or really cold, there is no in between. Would this be a termastate problem? Is there a replacement part I could get or alternatively a new shower with some kind of pump that doesn't require to feed of a tank (cistern). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated :D
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Submitted 424 days ago | by
SC, Dublin, Ireland
A: This sounds like a water supply problem. Check that mains stopcock and any isolation valve insupply to shower are fully open. Check that hose is not kinked or collapsed internally and the head is clear. Check the filter in the inlet to the solenoid is clear. Check that dynamic pressure is at least 1.0bar. If all above are ok then it may be the stabiliser valve is at fault, a replacement can be ordered online by clicking on the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83300450-Solenoid-valve-assemblyRegarding a pumped unit if you are supplied from the water mains it is illegal to install such a unit. Answered 424 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: After switching off the shower there continues to be water coming from the head. This problem is intermittent (often the flow stops as expected) and variable in the amount of water leaking - sometimes it is a gentle drip and sometimes a steady flow.
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Submitted 426 days ago | by
setrungo, Southampton
Answered 424 days ago | Alastair Answered 424 days ago | The Doc
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Q: The shower functions when on the economy setting ( 1 red bar ) but trips out the RCB on the breaker unit on the higher 2 bar setting ? Any ideas please
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Submitted 427 days ago | by
just me, Suffolk
A: If there is some heat then you may have a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 424 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi
When i siwtch on the shower, I can hearthe pump but no water is coming through. Any idea on likley cause?
Can you advise how to check the water supply to the shower without removing from the wall?
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Submitted 433 days ago | by
bert
Answered 432 days ago | Alastair
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Q: The shower worked fine yesterday but today there is no light showing and nothing happens when I switch it on. What is the most obvious problem? Is there a fuse within the unit?
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Submitted 460 days ago | by
Steve
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 460 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: The shower head is constantly dripping
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Submitted 470 days ago | by
jimmy
Answered 470 days ago | The Doc
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Q: The over pressure device is pumping out liquid, and it gets worse with faster flow (lower temperature) - power setting has no effect.
The shower works and does get hotter when asked.
It feels like a broken over pressure device to me - any thoughts? From a cost basis, that would also be the best thing to replace first.
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Submitted 476 days ago | by
Stu
A: Hi I think the pressure relief device has blown. It’s a safety device on the outlet pipe. It is fairly easy to replace however there is usually something that causes it to blow, often a kink in the hose or the showerhead is blocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD. Trito PRD Outlet 82800450 http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#1056x1767 Click on the link below, choose the manufacturer of the shower you have, scroll down the list of parts and select the part number you require. You can then purchase the items online or call the office on 0131 443 9917 pressing option # 1 for spares. http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#588X0 Answered 476 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My Shower worked ok for first minute and then cut out and then came back on, and then switched itself off. there is no response from the on off button, although main switch shows power is there . Any Ideas?
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Submitted 496 days ago | by
rex
Answered 494 days ago | Alastair
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Q: shower not coming on
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Submitted 501 days ago | by
aki
Answered 501 days ago | Alastair
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Q: SHOWER GOES HOT AND COLD THANKYOU
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Submitted 501 days ago | by
WAYNE
Answered 501 days ago | Alastair
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Q: What shower head holder replaces the old Triton T80si 83306190
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Submitted 541 days ago | by
LMC
A: The part number that has superseded 83306190 is now TRITO-83313470 22mm white holder. Answered 541 days ago | SD |
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Q: Hi I have a Triton T80si Shower after I take a shower the shower cuts off and no one can get a shower for around 30mins. Thinking I am doing the right thing I replaced the Thermal Cut out at a cost of £25.00 and the same thing happens, if I take ashower with the heat dial at between setting 5 - 6 the shower does not cut out after use, but if I set the dial to between 6 or 7 the shower cuts out after use and does not reset for around 30mins this is not right. can you advise as i have the same model of shower in my down stairs bathroom with no problems.
Regards
JimB
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Submitted 545 days ago | by
JimB
Answered 544 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Hi, My Triton T80SI has suddenly gone cold on the one bar setting. If I turn it to the two bar setting I can get hot water. I am no expert, but this ounds like an element has gone.
Could anyone help me with the replacement part I need/possible other issues.
Thanks
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Submitted 555 days ago | by
Nick
A: It certainly sounds like an element is faulty Here is how to check it It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester There are three tanks depending on the out put, here is the link. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/electric-showers/trito-parent-12-triton-t80si Answered 554 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: The temperature adjustment is either really hot or cold. I can hear the switching to the heater and then it just gets really hot when i wind it back till it switches off, it just goes cold. could this be the stabiliser valve?
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Submitted 574 days ago | by
pinky
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow/stab valve.
Answered 574 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My triton shower is not as powerful as usual in the summer when its warm. we useually need the shower turned right up water flowing strong and its hot and powerful but now its in the same position as winter and its just about ok we usually leave the top switch in the double red position
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Submitted 578 days ago | by
derek
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878 Answered 576 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: power light is on. Live and neutral at connection point. Live continues through sensor on top of tank and then to micro switch behind power knob.
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Submitted 616 days ago | by
simon
Answered 615 days ago | Alastair
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Q: water is leaking from shower head when switched off ,what part do i require?
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Submitted 617 days ago | by
khutty
Answered 616 days ago | Alastair
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Q: the water goes from hot to cold
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Submitted 623 days ago | by
celeste123
A: Check the hose for kinks or any jnternal obstructions, this can be best checked by removing hose and running shower without, if shower then ok replace hose. If problem still there then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements
Alastair
Answered 621 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: my t80si does not work#
The symptoms are;
the power light does not come (there is power coming in to the unit)
The low pressue flag seems to be active
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Submitted 638 days ago | by
rasher
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Here is the link to the solenoid. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83300450-Solenoid-valve-assembly Answered 638 days ago | The Doc |
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