Triton T80XR

A: Replacing the heating can may help, and this link will take you to a head that you can dismantle.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/triton/shower-heads/trito-88500035-triton-head-7000-wht-(universal)-88500035

A: 

If the shower is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

If there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to  open / close the safety device that allowspower through to the elements

 

 Make sure that theshower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happenjust behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside ofthe hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsedinternally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowingthe correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control tofully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribblethen turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have afaulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

Also have a look at the outlet TCO

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going toit and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank andthe hose)
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs ofoverheating then the TCO needs replaced.

 

 

 

 

 

A: 

The rails come as part of a kit

 

The Triton kits are here

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/rail-kits/triton

 

A: 

 Unfortunately there is nothing that is a directswap.

 

However.......Triton has recently brought out the T80Z Fast Fit this shower has been designedround being a retrofit unit. 

Thepipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonableamount of space for cable entry from most positions.

 

Hereis the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZFF-Triton-T80Z-Fast-Fit-8-5kW-Electric-Shower---White-Chrome?pg=2

 

 

A: No special considerations, but you could contact Triton for your piece of mind.

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: 

We are having a problem at the moment with our ticketing systemit is running words together, we have people working on it!!

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety devicewill turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

 

Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

A: 

Ifit is the hose connection that is leaking then give it a tighten or it may needa new hose.

 

Alsomake sure that it is not your PRD that has activated and you are seeing thewater from that which is at the rear of the hose so it may look like the hosebut the water is in fact coming from somewhere else.

A: 

It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have amultimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: 

I wonder if it could be a faulty element or a faulty microswitch not allowing power through to the elements.

 

See below for how to check the elements

It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have amultimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: 

Wehave a few videos so I am not sure which one you have checked.

If the shower is absolutely cold then I thinkyou may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals(The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and afaulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts thepower off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

 

Ifthere is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there aretwo, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter youshould have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to theelements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to theelements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking andtesting the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply toappliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left inbatteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

Fromyour description it doesn’t sound like the elements however the two otherthings that come to mind are outlet TCO

 

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a blackdisk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)

Examine the connections closely if you see anydiscoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced.   

 Andthe other fault could be a faulty micro switch not allowing power through tothe elements

A: This is the link to the coil

tp://www.showerdoc.com/hydr-27600-hydra-universal-solenoid-coil-(no-valve)-27600

A: 

Probably one of the elements has blown see below for how to check.

 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: 

Yes one of the elements in the heating can has gone so you will have to replace the can.

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: The solenoid/stabiliser valve is not closing off properly and needs to be replaced , it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-P12120800-Triton-Stabiliser-Valve-And-Solenoid-Assembly-P12120800

A: 

As I recollect you have to remove the complete valve assembly to get enough space to remove and replace the coil

This sounds more difficult than it actually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc. come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos as you go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding.

 

  

A: Would suspect the stabiliser/solenoid valve assembly , replacement can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-P12120800-Triton-Stabiliser-Valve-And-Solenoid-Assembly-P12120800

A: Almost certainly the stabikiser/solenoid valve assy has failed open and needs to be replaced , it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-P12120800-Triton-Stabiliser-Valve-And-Solenoid-Assembly-P12120800

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

The other possibility is poor pressure from the mains

You could give your local water authority a ring an ask them what your water pressure should be, they will probably say that the supply a minimum of 1bar (the minimum required to operate a shower)however press them and ask what it is likely to be first thing in the morning (when everybody is showering)

 

They could have the pressure turned down because they are working on the main, or because there is a burst pipe some where and they have turned the pressure down to try to save water, or the pressure maybe low just because there is a burst pipe somewhere, that hasn’t been discovered yet!

 

A: 

 I think the pressure relief device has blown.

 

It’s a safety device on the bottom of the heating tank or outlet pipe

 

It is fairly easy to replace however there is usually something that causes it to blow,

often a kink in the hose or the showerhead is blocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83301330-PRD-(Pressure-Relief-Device)-and-'O'-ring-(Pair)?ss=prd&pg=2

http://www.showerdoc.com/trito-82800450-triton-pressure-relief-device-82800450

 

A: 

If everything is working OK then all I can think of is the small Micro switch on top of the stabilizer solenoid valve assembly  (Part 8)

 http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-15-Triton-T80XR

Is either faulty or has become dislodged.

 

A: 

The noise is just the water heating like a kettle as you say however the fact that it is not heating on no8 suggests that it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

 

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohm 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878

If it is a faulty element a replacement heating can of the correct wattage can be ordered online via the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-15-Triton-T80XR

A: This is the most likely cause , replacement can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-P12120800-Triton-Stabiliser-Valve-And-Solenid-Assembly-P12120800

A: 

If when you say that the shower has stopped you mean that there is no water coming from it then it may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

A: 

 I think in the first instance you have to replace the wires.

 

After that the things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

 

A: You require a new on/off switch assembly which can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-82301310-Triton-Start-stop-Switch-Assembly-82301310

A: When it shuts off check that there is a minimum of 230volts at the connector block in the shower , if not then the isolation switch is at fault and needs replaced.
If power is ok then it is the solenoid coil at fault, if you click on the link below it will take you to a video clip showing how to test and change it and allow online ordering.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/HYDR-27600-Hydra-Universal-Solenoid-Coil-(no-Valve)-27600

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878

If it is a faulty element then a replacement heating can of the appropriate wattage can be ordered online via the link below as can the switching assy if it is the switch at fault.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-15-Triton-T80XR

A: This is a flow problem in that there is not sufficient water flowing.
Check that shower hose is not kinked orcollapsed internally and head is clear.
Check with your supplier that there has not been a reduction in supply flow or pressure.
Check that mains stopcock and any isolation valve in the feed to the shower are fully open.
Check that gauze filter in inlet to shower is clear.
If all above are ok then the fault is most likely to be the stabiliser valve and a replacement can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-P12120800-Triton-Stabiliser-Valve-And-Solenid-Assembly-P12120800 

A: 

 About the only other thing that can cause it, is if an element goes, the effects of that can cause it to blow. Failure

A: 

 About the only other thing that can cause it, is if an element goes, the effects of that can cause it to blow.

A: Check that shower hose is not kinked or collapsed internally and that head is clear.
Check that water supply to the unit is ok and the inlet filter in the shower is clear.
If theseare ok then I would suspect the stabiliser/solenoid valve assy needs to be replaced, it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-P12120800-Triton-Stabiliser-Valve-And-Solenid-Assembly-P12120800

A: Almostb certainly it is the pressure device that has triggered, replacement can be ordered online by clicking on the link below which will also give costs.
Before fitting check that hose is not kinked or collapsed internally and shower head is clear.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-82800450-Triton-Pressure-Relief-Device-82800450

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

Due to the recent weather

 

You could give your local water authority a ring an ask them what your water pressure should be, they will probably say that the supply a minimum of 1bar (the minimum required to operate a shower)however press them and ask what it is likely to be first thing in the morning (when everybody is showering)

 

They could have the pressure turned down because they are working on the main, or because there is a burst pipe some where and they have turned the pressure down to try to save water, or the pressure maybe low just because there is a burst pipe somewhere, that hasn’t been discovered yet!

 

 

 

A: You need to check for the following:

Stop tap is fully open to the shower
The PRD device has not been activated causing water to pour from the clear tube under the shower
There are no visible leaks inside the shower from the temperature valve
There are no visible signs of melting or burning wires
The filter on the inlet solenoid valve is not blocked with debri

if all the above are ok then it could be a problem with the Stabiliser valve

A: 

If when you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid.

 

When you switch off the shower at the main isolator  and the water stops  running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking on.

 

 

 

A: 

 It’s the 10.5

 

Basically it gives out 10.5 at 240V

And 9.6 at 220V

A: 

I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: Before you do this you need to check that cable and fuse/circuit breaker are of a size that will service a 9.5kw

A: If you have water flowing from the overflow at the bottom of the shower then it sounds like the PRD ( Pressure Relief Device ) has activated.

The reason this part activates can be down to one of the following below:

Shower head is blocked or has been changed to another style of shower head
The Shower Hose inner has collapsed or it has been changed for another style of shower hose
The Shower hose is kinked whilst the shower was in operation.
There has been a burst of pressure to the shower EG: water works in the area

This part can be changed and is item 10 from the spares diagram on our website under the part number 82800450.

You will also find fitting advice below the diagram spares list in the Q&As on that page.

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.

http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878

If it is a faulty element click on this link find the correct wattage and order online.

Alastair

A: It is held in by 2 screws which are a bit fiddly to get at but is fairly easy, you dont need to turn water off only power.
The PRD can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-82800450-Pressure-Relief-Device

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: Would suspect a faulty solenoid coil. If you click on the link below it will take you to a video clip showing how to test and change the coil and enable online ordering

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/HYDR-27600-Universal-Solenoid-Coil-(No-Valve)