Triton T90si Pumped

A: 

You will need to replace the complete solenoid valve

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-22009110-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-22009110

 

A: 

Thisis the link to your TCO

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-22010070-Triton-Thermal-Cut-Out-22010070

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-19-Triton-T90si-Pumped

A: 

It sounds like you need a new motor and pump unit or you mayget away with just fitting a new set of brushes to the motor.

 

We would always advise changing the complete motor and pumpunit however the brushes are much cheaper.

 

 

 

A: 

Sorry for the delay in replying

 

A micro switch is a switch that switches power on and off

 

A faulty micro switch will be stuck on allowing power to pass through it all the time or off not allowing power through it at al.

 

How to change it.......It depends where it is and which one has gone.

A: 

 How much are a set of brushes.

There no brushes available for this motor at this time

 

If one element goes can you replace it or do you have to buy aheater can.

You have to buy the can

 

Where does the solenoid valve sit on the solenoid.

On the rear case?

 

 Is the coil all part of the solenoid.

Yes but it can be removed.

 

Is the mould removal spray to remove mould from the shower tray.

Yes If the mould is on silicone (A soft surface it may take more than one application)

 

 Are your parts genuine Triton parts.

All our parts are OME unless otherwise stated or described as universal

 

Thanks for your help. Kind regards Colm.

No problem!

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

 

A: 

The brushes come in pairs and Ireland is no problem, when you reach check out the Ireland options are available

A: 

Is the pump running?

 

Ate the valves that supply the unit fully open?

 

The flow valve may be stuck due to lack of use, you could try winding it back and forth fully hot to fully cold 20 or 30 times it may free it off.

 

A: 

It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have amultimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: 

It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have amultimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: 

Any of these hoses will fit

 

 http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/shower-hoses/triton

 

It is really just a case of deciding on the length.

A: 

Any of these hoses will fit

 

 http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/shower-hoses/triton

 

It is really just a case of deciding on the length.

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you havea multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failedstate.) (When it has stopped working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is notoperating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The videois intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checkingand testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are reallyuseful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fusesand letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of otherjobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-22009110-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-22009110

 

A: 

If the shower is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

 

If there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

A: Check the shower hose is not kinked or collapsed internally and the shower head is clear'
Check the inlet filter is clear and that any isolation valve in feed is fully open.
If all above are ok then it is likely to be the flow valve at eault , replacement can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-82100310-Triton-Flow-Valve-Assy-82100310

A: 

These showers are not very powerful however they should provide an acceptable shower.

 

However there two things that may be worth checking.

The outlet TCO

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe  (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)

Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced.   

 The Elements

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-22009110-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-22009110

Sounds like the solenoid is not closing properly. Above is a link to the part.

A: 

Sorry we don’t have any wiring diagrams perhaps you can try Triton

http://www.tritonshowers.co.uk

A: 

Check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly, also check that the filters are clear

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

A: 

I am afraid it only comes as a complete assembly and think it is an unusual place for it to go unless it has been subjected to, too much pressure.

 

Is it connected to the water mains?

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: 

 

 You have a faulty isolating switch 

http://www.showerdoc.com/electrical-products/ELWBG002-45-Amp-Ceiling-Switch

A: 

If the light on the isolation switch is going out when you turn the shower on then I think that the isolation switch may be faulty

A: 

This is an unusual place for it to leak however if it is leaking from the can then it is just a case of replacing the can.

http://showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-19-Triton-T90si-Pumped

 

A: 

Yes you are correct, I think you should also check the solenoid.

 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

A: It is likely to be the thermal cut out on top of the heating can which has failed, if you click on the link below it will take you to a video clip showing how to test the tco and allow online ordering.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-22010070-Triton-Thermal-Cut-Out-22010070

If the tco is ok then with unit on check that the piston on top of the flow valve is activating the microswitch levers and if not a new flow valve can be ordered online by clicking on this link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-82100310-Triton-Flow-Valve-Assy-82100310

Check the outlet thermal cut out on the otlet pipe both visually and for continuity and if needed the replacement to suit the wattage of your shower can be ordered via this link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-19-Triton-T90si-Pumped

A: 

If it is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

 

If there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: 

The heating tanks that are available are here

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-19-Triton-T90si-Pumped

 

Items 7 8 and 9

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878

Also check the outlet thermal cut out on the outlet pipe to the hose for conyinuity and visual signs of over heating.

Once you have identifiedthe fault required part(s) can be ordered online via the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-19-Triton-T90si-Pumped

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878

Also check the outlet thermal cut out on the outlet pipe to the hose

Once you have identified the fault required part(s) can be ordered online via the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-19-Triton-T90si-Pumped

A: Unfortunately no the pump and motor assembly are one component

A: 

Check that the scale trap is clean the shower head is clean and that there no kinks in the hose.

A: 

The TCO lies on top of the tank therefore no seal is necessary

A: 

I am not certain but I think the part you mention is the pump, which is part of the motor and pump assembly.

This is the pump with the cover removed.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-84000110-Pump-and-motor-assembly