Triton T90xr Pumped

From whatyou say it should work!

However ifyou can just go through this check list.

Power tothe terminal block

Power atboth sides of the TCO

Power tothe elements when it is switched on

Check theoutlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and itis mounted on the out let pipe  (The bit between the heating tank and thehose)

Examine theconnections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating thenthe TCO needs replaced.   

 If itis a new tank and the elements have resistance it must heat up

If all ofthese are OK send me a few photos of the wiring to gt@showerdoc.co.uk and I’ll see if i canwork out where the problem is

We are having a problem at the moment with our ticketing systemit is running words together, we have people working on it!!

Itmay be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to theelements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to theelements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have amultimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

Weare having a problem at the moment with our ticketing system it is runningwords together, we have people working on it!!

Ithink you need a new solenoid

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-22009120-Triton-Solenoid-22009120

I don’t follow exactly what the fault is....However....

I think you may have afaulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the twoterminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connectionsand a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats itcuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

If the thermal cut out is OK then check the micro switchesin the power selector one of the switches may have failed and is not allowingthe power through to the elements.

Is the switches are OK then It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there aretwo, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter youshould have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have amultimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have amultimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

The Fault

If the shower is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

If there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

What may be the cause

I think you have a micro switch stuck in the on position when you switch off your shower one micro switch keeps the power on to one of the elements and perhaps boils off some of the water inside, then the over heat safety device comes in and shuts the shower down.

The next time you come to use the shower because the heating tank isn’t full of water it starts to boil and that is how the shower starts coughing spluttering and issuing steam.

This will cause the TCO or one of the elements to fail

So you will have to look and see if you can spot the faulty switch and then replace it.

The thing to check first is the filter assembly make sure it is clean and clear.


If it is not clear then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

Also I presume you can hear the motor running?

Check that the inlet filter is clean and clear if it is not then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Yes could very easily be a cracked filter assy.

The other thing to check would be the Pressure Relief device

 Unfortunately Triton doesn’t to an ‘O’ ring pack for this shower, all the components come with their individual ‘o’ rings.

All I can suggest is you remove the ‘O’ rings you require and take them to B&Q and see you can match them.

You Could have burnt out a heating element, below is how to check the elements

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

There should be a sticker inside or underneath the shower with the rating on it also it will be stamped into the top of the heating can, however this can sometimes be difficult to see.