Triton T100e/T100e Care

A: 

We are having a problem at the moment with our ticketing systemit is running words together, we have people working on it!!

 

I think you may have afaulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the twoterminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connectionsand a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats itcuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

 

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

 

A: 

It sounds like you have a fault with the PCB unfortunately this board is now obsolete.

 

Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap.

 

However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit  (Tritons word not mine!)

 

The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions.

 

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

 

See Video at the foot of the page

A: Sounds like the solenoid valve is not closing properly and needs replaced , can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83300450-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-Assembly-83300450

A: It may be the solenoid coil at fault if you click on the link below it will take you to a video clip showing how to test and if needed change the coil and allow online ordering.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/HYDR-27600-Hydra-Universal-Solenoid-Coil-(no-Valve)-27600

If it is not the solenoid coil then it is either the stabiliser valve or the printed circuit board both of which are obsolete so a new shower is required.
Our recommended replacement is the T100e Care Plus 8.5kw which whilst not a direct replacement is the only one with care features , it can be ordered online by clicking on the link bel;ow.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/ZTRITO-C10E84PT-Triton-T100E-Care-Plus Electric-Shower-8-5kW

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: If you cannot find a label then the wattage of the shower will be stamped on the top of the heating can.

A: 

Sounds like a pressure problem.

 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to  open / close the safety device that allows power through to the elements

 

 

 

 

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

A: If the water is leaking from the clear tube beneath the heater can assembly then you will need to replace the PRD ( Pressure Relief Device TRITO - 83301330 ) -

If the leak is coming from between the copper & plastic part of the heater can then you will need to replace the heater can assembly.

If the leak is not coming from any of the above then will need to ascertain where the leak is coming from before ordering parts and contact our technical support via our technical forum via the link provided - http://www.showerdoc.co.uk/forum/phpBB2/

A: The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower and this will cause the low pressure light to come on.