Q: My Triton T100xr (about 6 years old) will run fine on a lowish temeprature but if I turn it up into above lukewarm there's a loudish click and it runs cold and won't heat up again even on a lower temperature.
Does it just need a new thermostat or is it a more serious(expensive) problem?
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Submitted 2 days ago | by
Ali, Dorset
Answered 1 day ago | bar-s
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Q: Hi. My shower spontaneously switched itself on a couple of times and then subsequently the push-button is ineffective. The shower still works ok but I have to shut it down with the isolator switch instead.
Any ideas what could be wrong and what I need to replace?
Thanks
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Submitted 79 days ago | by
Mackro, Ashby-de-la-zouch
A: This could be either the control printed circuit board in the front cover or the power pcb in the unit. Remove the front cover and disconnect the ribbon cable , restore the power via the isolator switch , if the shower comes on then it is the power pcb , if not it is the control pcb. Required part can be ordered online by clicking on the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-28-Triton-T100xr-electric Answered 79 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: the other day when i turned the shower on it blew the rcd. i reset the rcd and since then the pressure of the hot water is low and also luke warm even if i turn it to the hottest setting. what do you think it could be?
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Submitted 83 days ago | by
phatdan, southend on sea
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 83 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: We have had a problem for about a year now with significant lack of hot water flow. After reading other forums we put this down to maybe cold weather etc etc but now believe that one of the elements may have gone.
If after checking the elements this is the case, how easy a job to change the Heater Can?
Qualified in electrics but wondered if there is any setup required once this has been changed?
Any help would be really useful.
By the way this is a very good site..many thanks
Steve
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Submitted 100 days ago | by
bluescoobyblue, midlands
A: The replacement is fairly straight forward.
Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantle most of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part out and the new part in. This sounds more difficult than it actually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc. come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos as you go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding. There no special set up instructions other than let it run for about 20secs. on full cold before turning on the power to the elements Answered 99 days ago | The doc |
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Q: When I push the on/off button the two red lights in the top right come on and then immediately go off. In that time the unit pumps out a small amount of water and then stops (as if its shutting down). If I press and hold the on/off button the unit works. Do I require a new outlet pipe assembly?
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Submitted 112 days ago | by
Marty, Pontypool
A: I think you need a new power PCBhttp://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-7073333-Triton-Power-Pcb-7073333
Answered 112 days ago | The doc |
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Q: Hi i Have a triton t100xr and the problem i have is that when i push the button to stop the shower it turns off then water pumps out then stops then pumps out water again then finally turns off i wondered if you could help me with this problem.
Thanks
Carl
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Submitted 122 days ago | by
Pumping, Essex
Answered 121 days ago | Alastair
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Q: shower keeps going hot and cold
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Submitted 125 days ago | by
Anonymous, west midslands
A: Check the shower hose is not kinked or collapsed internally. Check that incoming mains water stoopcock and any isolation valve in the feed to the shower are fully open. Check with your supplier id there has been any reduction in water supply pressure or flow. Check that gauze filter in inlet to the solenoid valve is clear. If all above are ok then it is likely to be the stabiliser valve at fault , replacement can be ordered online by clicking on the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-P12120801-Triton-Stabiliser-Valve-solenoid-Assembly-P12120801 Answered 125 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: I have a Triton T100XR which will only produce cold water.
The indicator lamp adjacent to the switch, with the snow-flake symbol on it, on the front of the unit is permanantly on (red). No matter what I try I cant seem to get it to switch from this to producing hot water.
Do you know what's wrong with it?
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Submitted 144 days ago | by
Chris, Bristol
A: Good morning, Thank you for your email. If the shower is only delivering cold water regardless of the heat setting the dial is turned to, then it is most likely that the thermal cut-out is at fault and needs to be replaced. If you want to be sure beyond reasonable doubt that the thermal cut-out is at fault, then this part can be tested with a digital multimeter. Simply run a continuity test across the two terminals of the TCO. If no reading is obtained then this part will need to replaced. (The thermal cut-out is an overheat safety device which prevents the shower from overheating and delivering scalding hot water. When it activates it will cut the power to the elements on top of the heating can and, as such, will turn the water cold.) Should you require a thermal cut-out, please follow the link below to order this part from our website... http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-22011180-Triton-Thermal-Cut-out-(tco)-22011180I hope that this helps you out. Regards, The Shower Doctor. Answered 141 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: please can you advise as to what is causing the above prolem
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Submitted 248 days ago | by
oakham, west sussex
Answered 247 days ago | Alastair
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Q: i have a drip coming from the bottom screw of the inlet pipe assembly. will replacing this part get rid of the problem ?
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Submitted 254 days ago | by
barri, swasea
Answered 251 days ago | Alastair
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Q: the shower flowes hot water at the right temp then you hear the click of and tripes the consumer unit
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Submitted 256 days ago | by
hacker, pershore
A: You may have an element that is beginning to fail however can you check ythat the fuse is the correct rating for your shower 8.5 kw 35amp 9.5 kw 40amp 10.5kw 45amp Answered 256 days ago | The doc |
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Q: My Triton T100xr has began to experience similar problems to what others have described, in that I have hot water for a matter of seconds before I hear a "click" and the low pressure indicator comes on, cold water runs for a while then the light goes off and hot water returns, only for the cycle to repete.
The Main is fully open and there has been no drop in pressure.
The valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
I have turned the temperature from fully hot to fully cold and seen a noticible difference in flow so Im assuming flow/stabilizer valve is not faulty.
With water running the top of the flow valve is making good contact with the micro switch at the bottom of the PCB so I am also assuming this is not the cause.
With the Shower front off, I can see that the clicking noise I hear is coming from the 2 Relays, along with a spark.
(I think they are Relays, 2 similar components towards the middle and bottom of the PCB)
Do I need to replace the whole PCB or is there any way to find and replace faulty components?
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Submitted 336 days ago | by
mitch, Fife
Answered 336 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Hi my triton t100xr shower went bang, any ideas what happened?
it dosnt work now?
thx Doreen
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Submitted 360 days ago | by
Do, Ayrshire
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.
Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878
If it is a blown element then a replacement heating can may be ordered online via the link below.
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-28-Triton-T100xr-electric
Answered 359 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: water flow is switching off after 5minutes,water is heating okay
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Submitted 366 days ago | by
gordon, scotland
Answered 363 days ago | Alastair
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Q: hi ..
my triton t100xr is running hot and cold and keeps lighting on reduced water pressure i have cleaned the filter ..removed shower head and turned mains on and off six times incase it was a air blockage ..i noticed on a similar question you mention the pcb board is this a common fault ..and could this be my problem
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Submitted 456 days ago | by
nomadic123
A: Hi Here is the full check list The first things to check are: 1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open. 2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore no power will get to the elements and the unit will show low pressure. Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve Finally when you turn the water on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator on top of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of the PCB make sure they are properly aligned. If all these are OK then you probably have a fault with your PCB. The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCB however they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the low pressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB. George Shedman20 (One of the forum contributors added this) Have a look at the circuit board that is directly behind the STOP button, mine had a hairline crack here, repaired with soldering iron and thin wire. Use a magnifying glass if necessary, could save you a few bob! Answered 456 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: Hi there, I have recently replaced the PCB of my Triton T100xr as the water temperature was switiching between cold and hot intermittently and I was advised that this was the problem. Now, with a new PCB installed the shower does not heat the water up sufficiently. Can you advise what I can do to resolve this?
Many thanks,
Niall
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Submitted 463 days ago | by
Niall
A: Two things come to mind. The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allows power through to the elements
Then
It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 460 days ago | Anonymous |
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