Triton Topaz T80i

A: 

If the shower is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

If there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the safety device will turn
the power off until it cools, then it all starts again

 

Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowingthe correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control tofully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribblethen turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have afaulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

Also if it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going toit and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank andthe hose)
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs ofoverheating then the TCO needs replaced.

 

 

 

A: 

It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have amultimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: 

My first thought would be tolook carefully at the outlet TCO.

The outlet Thermal Cut Out thisis a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out letpipe  (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)

Examine the connections closelyif you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needsreplaced.   

 Ifit has tripped the main fuse it may be a faulty element in the heating tank(there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multimeter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to theelements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to theelements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have amultimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

If it is still a problem after you have checked these get back to us.

 

A: 

Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap.

 

However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit  (Tritons word not mine!)

 

The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions.

 

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

 

See Video at the foot of the page

 

A: Check that the shower hose is not kinked or collapsed internally and the shower head is clear.
Check that incoming mains water stopcock and any isolation valve in feed to shower are fully open
Check with your supplier if there has been any reduction in water flow or pressure.
Check the gauze filter in the inlet to the solenoid valve is clear.
If all the above are ok then it is likely to be the stabiliser valve at fault and as this is now obsolete a new shower is required.
Our recommended replacement is the Triton T80z and the appropriate wattage model can be ordered online via the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton/electric-showers

A: Good afternoon,

Thank you for your email.

Please follow the links below to view the Triton hoses and heads that we have available to order on our website. Any of these products will be compatible with your Triton Topaz T80i shower.

Shower Hoses:
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/shower-hoses/triton

Shower Heads:
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/shower-heads/triton

I hope that this helps you out.

Regards,

The Shower Doctor.

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

 

A: 

First I think the pressure relief device hasblown and this is what is causing the water to come the bottom of the unit.

 

It’s a safety device on the bottom of theheating tank.

 

It is fairly easy to replace however there isusually something that causes it to blow,

often a kink in the hose or the showerhead isblocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83301330-PRD-(Pressure-Relief-Device)-and-'O'-ring-(Pair)?ss=prd&pg=2

The bubbling noise is caused by the waterstarting to over heat.

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety devicewill turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

 

Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

 

 

 

 

 

A: 

Yes it sounds like you have a micro switch that is stuck in the on position and this is keeping one of the elements energised all the time.

 

You need to work out which switch it is and replace it, sometimes you can see that the switch has overheated.

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

A: 

Yes the cover assembly is still obsolete and I don’t know of any other part that will fit.

A: Afraid there is no alternative cover so a new shower is required, there is no direct swap but the Triton T80z will be straightforward with same water and elecxtric connections, you can order the appropriate wattage model via the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton/electric-showers

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878

Also check the outlet thermal cut out for continuity and check visually for signs of overheating on the cables to it.
Once you have established the fault click on the link below to order available spares online.

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878

Also check the outlet thermal cut out for continuity and visually for signs of overheating at the cables.

Once you have established the  fault replacement part can be ordered online via the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-29-Triton-Topaz-T80i

A: Your description makes me suspect the stabiliser valve has sprung a leak which in turn has harmed the solenoid coil and stopped it working.
These parts can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-29-Triton-Topaz-T80i

A: The inlet solenoid valve has failed open and needs replaced, it can be ordered online by cliicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83304130-Solenoid-valve-assembly

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

A: If it does not start to heat up again after a decent interval then I think this is caused by residual heat in the heating elements overheating the water in the tank causing the thermal cut out to operate, as this unit does not have a phased shut down this is normal.

Alastair