Triton T50i

If your PRD( pressure relief device ) saftey device has activated then it does need replaced.The reason this part usuallyactivates is down to one of the following:

Shower head is blocked and needs cleaned?
Shower head was changed for a new universal head?
Shower hose has collapsed inside the metal or plastic coating?
Shower hose was kinked whilst showering?
Burst of pressure to the shower after water board maintenance in the area?

Make surethese are checked before replacing as this will activate again if anyunderlying issues are not sorted out.

The part number you require is 83301330 and can be found via this link provided - http://www.showerdoc.com/trito-83301330-triton-prd-(pressure-relief-device)-and-o-ring-(pair)-83301330

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

However if it is leaking from the outlet pipe assembly you are going to need a mew shower as that part is obsolete.

Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap.

However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit  (Tritons word not mine!)

The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions.

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

See Video at the foot of the page

If the water is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

If you have some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-82600720-Triton-Stabilising-Valve-Assembly---7kw-82600720

However it is also worth checking due to the weather the following.

You could give your local water authority a ring an ask them what your water pressure should be, they will probably say that the supply a minimum of 1bar (the minimum required to operate a shower)however press them and ask what it is likely to be first thing in the morning (when everybody is showering)

They could have the pressure turned down because they are working on the main, or because there is a burst pipe some where and they have turned the pressure down to try to save water, or the pressure maybe low just because there is a burst pipe somewhere, that hasn’t been discovered yet!

Your existing shower will be 7KW

However you may be able to go up to 8.5 if it was installed correctly however you may have to fit a higher rated fuse

Unfortunately Triton don’t do seals for this valve it comes as a complete assembly.