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Q: I have checked the power to both elements.The right hand side element is getting power but the left side is not.Judging by your diagram it seems it could well be a power pcb problem.As they are no longer made,i think i have hit a brick wall unless you have any more ideas.
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Submitted 46 days ago | by
Mud, UK
Answered 46 days ago | The Doc
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Q: I've Checked the heater elements using a multimeter,I'm getting a reading of 12.5 and 16 ohms,therefore i think both elements are working.When i turn the water down to its coldest setting,the water has a good flow out of the pipe and only a dribble when i turn it to its highest setting but the water only gets luke warm.Not to sure about micro switches.Should both elements be reaching 16 ohms?
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Submitted 48 days ago | by
Mud , UK
A: Theelements sound OK, You could check and make sure that there is power going toboth elements. The otherthing you could check is the outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk withtwo wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bitbetween the heating tank and the hose) Examine theconnections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating thenthe TCO needs replaced. Answered 47 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My Topaz 100i has a low pressure light on, when the pressure is ok, any idea?
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Submitted 48 days ago | by
JohnC, Rutherglen
A: Forgettingabout the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hotyou should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fullycold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this differencethen you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve or a faulty low pressure sensor on the PCB.If there is no problem with the shower at this time, best to let sleeping dogs lie. Answered 48 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: The water temp does not change on either the economy and the high settings.It will go cold when you turn the temp down,but only goes warm when you turn it up again not hot.I think one of the elements may be broken?
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Submitted 48 days ago | by
Mud, UK
A: YesI agree it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three inmost 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have areading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to theelements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to theelements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply toappliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left inbatteries (so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 48 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: When switching on the shower the LCD display shows upto 23 degrees then regresses to colder temps.
Looking at some of the responses this maybe a tco but don't want to waste money if not - rather get a new shower.
Cheers in advance
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Submitted 84 days ago | by
southdale, little sutton, cheshire
A: I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs
Also, The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose) Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced.
If there is no fault found here, then it is one of the pcb`s but these are obsolete, so it`s a new shower.
Answered 84 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: I have recently installed the topaz t100i which we bought some 10+ years ago. The issue I have is that the unit does not stop the water flow when turned off, and the only way to stop the water flow is via the ceiling pull cord.
I thought the issue may be the solenoid however as the unit is in effect brand new (having never been used) - I am wondering whether the unit is still in commissioning mode?
Unfortunately I am unable to find the manual, or establish how to perform commissioning in this model (tritan topaz t100i)
Please can you tell me how to perform the above procedure, or where I can acquire a copy of the manual for this particular unit?
Thanks in advance
Trevor Wilson
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Submitted 139 days ago | by
Ttw, Staffordshire
A: The solenoid id ok if the water is stopping when you switchoff at the pull cord. So the fault is likely to be with the PCB which is obsolete! If you can get to the relays on the PCB then switch thepower off and give them a flick with a small screwdriver if that doesn’t solvethe problem then I am afrait it is a new shower. Answered 138 days ago | The doc |
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Q: my shower has just recently stopped working, it turns on but no water comes out and the low pressure light comes on. This only just started to happen, been in the house for 2 years with no problems.
Thanks
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Submitted 141 days ago | by
boulty, nottingham
A: . The first things to check are: 1 That the main valve coming into your house is fullyopen. 2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower isfully open. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enoughwater getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore nopower will get to the elements and the unit will show lowpressure. Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hotto fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble comingfrom the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you donot have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve Finally when you turn thewater on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator ontop of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of thePCB make sure they are properly aligned. If all these are OK then youprobably have a fault with your PCB. The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCBhowever they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the lowpressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB. Answered 138 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My Triton Topaz T100i works fine initially, however, after varying periods of time there's a click inside the shower unit and the shower then runs cold. If the shower is stopped and restarted, it usually starts working again. Although sometimes you have to leave it for a while.
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Submitted 144 days ago | by
Tony, Chester
Answered 140 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Both on economy and high setting the water temperature drops and the auto reset indicator lights up. When this happens there is a click just before the light comes on and the temperature drops, then another click as the light goes off and the water begins to heat again. There is no indication from the low pressure light that there isn't enough pressure and the shower head and hose are ok.
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Submitted 192 days ago | by
Maze, Oxford
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
Answered 189 days ago | The doc |
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Q: The shower head drips cold water long after the shower is turned off,What part do i need to stop it.
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Submitted 217 days ago | by
eddiep, SK16 5NH
Answered 216 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Our Triton Topaz shower has recently developed a fault whereby when on full power made the temp increases to approx 50degrees and the starts to decrease to around 35degrees whereby it starts to rise again. it will constantly repeat this as long as it is running?
When in eco mode the shower stays around a constant 35degree regardless of the dial?/
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Submitted 242 days ago | by
Anonymous, Bolton
A: Check the shower hose is not kinked or collapsed internally and the shower head is clear. Check that incoming mains wayer stopcock and any isolation valve in feed to shower are fully open Check with your supplier if there has been any reduction in water flow or pressure. Check that gauze filter in inlet to solenoid valve is clear. If all above are ok then it is likely to be the stabiliser valve at fault , replacement can be ordered online by clicking on this link. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-82600800-Triton-Stabiliser-Valve-Assembly-82600800 Answered 241 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: the shower keeps turning off and the clean head light is showing it also has a code 88
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Submitted 251 days ago | by
carol, Lancashire
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 251 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: The water temperature kept going up and down on its own, also the water would regularily shoot out of the shower head due to the pressure. We changed the shower head, and from then on we cannot get any hot water at all, something to do with it needing to be re-set?
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Submitted 260 days ago | by
claire, London
A: It sounds like the head may have blocked the flow and allowed the heating tank to over heat, this may have caused the Thermal Cut Out to activate. A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs Also see. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a30PgX8k3eM Answered 259 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: When showering, the temperature will suddenly drop to cold for just a few seconds, then returns to normal. There are no unusual lights on the display to indicate a fault. It seems to happen on all settings, and when it does, I can hear a low click just before the temperature drops and again before it comes back on (a if it is switching on/off by itself). None of the lights change when this happens. It happens maybe two or three times each time I shower. Hope you can help.
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Submitted 269 days ago | by
Superman, Grimsby
Answered 267 days ago | Alastair
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Q:
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Submitted 273 days ago | by
chilli1970, Peterborough
A: Either one of the elements has failed or the outlet tco has failed. It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose) Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced. Answered 273 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: I have a triton topaz t100i which is not heating the water at all.
There is no electrical continuity across the two terminals of the thermal cut out.
I think this means the TCO is not working. The serial number on the top of the TCO is 22008310 which is different from the serial number in your spares listing.
Is the TCO faulty if there is no electrical continuity & is part number 22009860 from your list suitable for this shower unit.
Thanks.
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Submitted 288 days ago | by
John, Nottingham
Answered 287 days ago | The Doc
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Q: My shower is going to the cold setting and will not change to high or economy.What do I require to replace?
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Submitted 326 days ago | by
Jimmymci, Glasgow
A: This is a faulty power printed circuit board which is now obsolete and no longer available so a new shower is required. Our recommended replacement is the Triton T80z which whilst not a direct replacement should be fairly straightforward to fit , the appropriate wattage model can be ordered online via this link. http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton/electric-showers Answered 323 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: No water coming through shower - red 'low pressure' warning light on? What is problem
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Submitted 335 days ago | by
dolly, croydon
Answered 335 days ago | Alastair
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Q: shower keeps going hot then cold then hot then cold what would this be caused by
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Submitted 350 days ago | by
margaret, liverpool
A: Check shower hose is not kinked or collapsed internally and head is clear. Check that incoming mains water stopcock and any isolation valve in the feed to the shower are fully open. Check with supplier thatb ther has not been a reduction in supply pressure or flow. Check that inlet filter in the solenoid valve is clear. If all above are ok then it is likely to be the stabiliser at fault , replacement can be ordered online by clicking on the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-82600800-Triton-Stabiliser-Valve-Assembly-82600800 Answered 350 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: the shower is showing low presher and is cold but when it dosnt show low presher it is hot on any number you put it on what can i do
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Submitted 363 days ago | by
margaret, liverpool l24 4bb
A: I think you have a flow pressure problem.
The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allows power through to the elements
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Answered 362 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Do you stock replacement hoses?
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Submitted 446 days ago | by
Noni , BR2 8QH
Answered 445 days ago | LC
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Q: The water is coming out the shower unit and not the external hose or showerhead. What is causing this and how do i fix it.
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Submitted 453 days ago | by
Kal, Glasgow
Answered 453 days ago | Alastair
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Q: water comes out of overflow and not out of main shower head outlet when turning shower on
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Submitted 467 days ago | by
gray, hastings
Answered 466 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Shower running cold unless setting 14/15 then too hot. Tries to auto-reset when noise like boiling kettle sounds for few seconds then cuts out. Put control back down to normal setting (5/6) & low pressure warning comes on again. No obvious low pressure in mains supply & given milder conditions, don't think there are friozen pipes interrupting supply from cold supply. Any suggestions?
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Submitted 510 days ago | by
Ian, Airdrie
A: The first things to check are: 1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open. 2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore no power will get to the elements and the unit will show low pressure. Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve Finally when you turn the water on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator on top of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of the PCB make sure they are properly aligned. If all these are OK then you probably have a fault with your PCB. The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCB however they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the low pressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB. George Shedman20 (One of the forum contributors added this) Have a look at the circuit board that is directly behind the STOP button, mine had a hairline crack here, repaired with soldering iron and thin wire. Use a magnifying glass if necessary, could save you a few bob! Answered 508 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Our shower opera
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Submitted 522 days ago | by
snorker, Barr, Ayrshire
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Answered 522 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My T100i has bee
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Submitted 523 days ago | by
Carl, Peterborough
A: Hi I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs Answered 522 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: when i put the shower on high it gets hot & then the temp slowly reduces until it is luke warm. on economy it is just cold all the time
thanks neil
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Submitted 538 days ago | by
dicky
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably the power printed circuit board. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878
If you click on the link below it will take you to the parts diagram and allow online ordering of required part.
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-27-Triton-T100si-electric Answered 537 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: shower not working, power is ok to all parts but nothing happens when on/off switch is pressed, no warning lights showing. no smell of burn out. help
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Submitted 563 days ago | by
tommy
A: Check there is a minimum of 230volts at thr connector block inside the shower , if notb then it is likelyn to be the isolation switch that has gone high resistance and needs replaced. If power ok the it is likely to be the solenoid coil at fault, if you click on the link below it will take you to a video clip showing how to test and change the coil and allow online ordering. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/HYDR-27600-Universal-Solenoid-Coil-(No-Valve) Answered 562 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: This light flashes when you switch the shower on and you have to turn the temperature setting up toward the highest settings to get hot water (its a 9.5Kw model)
Is there a manual reset inside the panel?
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Submitted 578 days ago | by
AT
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester
No Manual reset Answered 577 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: The on/off and cold water buttons have broken on the shower. Do you have any replacements that may fit?
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Submitted 611 days ago | by
slinknet
Answered 609 days ago | Alastair
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Q: the water is coming out of the overflow on my shower triton topaz t100i i would be grateful for any advice as to what could be wrong and what parts i may need
thak you
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Submitted 614 days ago | by
olijam
Answered 614 days ago | Alastair
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Q: whilst the High Power Indicator Control is switchedand the Temperature Indicator on a low setting the water temperature is too hot for usage. When the Control is switched over to Economy the water temperature drops to cold and the Low Pressure indicator flashes. It then continues to flash through various settings regardlessof temperature or pressure settings and there is no obvious sign of any loss of water pressure. Please indicate the possible reasons for this malfunction and your method of rectification. Thank you.
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Submitted 637 days ago | by
Billy
Answered 636 days ago | Alastair
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