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Q: i am lookin for a shower head holder/connector. This part lets you move the shower head at different degree angles. The head can be lifted of this part and put back on it.
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Submitted 19 days ago | by
sue, Timperley
A: Triton shower rails over the years have come with 18mm / 19mm / 20.4 mm / 22mm / and now 25mm diameter rails, however the most common rail they used was the 22mm. Measure the diameter of your rail or the whole in the handset holder that the rail slides through and choose from one of the following correct size and colour holders in this link provided - http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/slider-brackets/triton Answered 19 days ago | LC |
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Q: I intermittently get water leaking from the stabiliser valve. I have cleaned it once which seemed to fix it for a while, but it occasionally still happens - but will then cease the next time the shower is used, despite no remedial action having been taken.
Any ideas?
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Submitted 54 days ago | by
Nick23c, Stoke-on-Trent
A: It is just a diaphragm washer that will be causing the problem, the leak will not go away it will only get worse. You are going to need a new stab. Valve. Answered 54 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: HI
can anyone help please ,shower temperature fluctuating from very hot to cold, what part do I have to replace to rectify.
Thanks Karl
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Submitted 72 days ago | by
karl, cheshire
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
Answered 64 days ago | The doc |
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Q: low pressure light flashing indicating low pressure, but water pressure ok going into unit, also changed batteries, shower still not working.
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Submitted 87 days ago | by
wee yin, stonehouse
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 85 days ago | The doc |
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Q: on the original stabiliser valve there is a white plastic insert which was supper glued in by Triton is this part available
presently good old gaffer tape doing the job but would prefer the right part
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Submitted 108 days ago | by
andy , Unknown
Answered 106 days ago | The doc
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Q: Whether on 1 or 10 the temperature is the same (very slightly lukewarm). The water flow is also the same. As someone on limited income I am trying to get some idea of what it is, and the possible cost for replacement parts, before I call someone out to have a look at it
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Submitted 118 days ago | by
Sandy, Ashton-under-Lyne
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allows power through to the elements
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
Also if it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO
The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced. The other possibility is a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 118 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: We have water pouring out of the remote box in the airing cupboard? This has all the electrics in it.
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Submitted 126 days ago | by
snozzer, Nottingham
Answered 126 days ago | The Doc
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Q: I previously sent you this question on Sunday 31st July but you wrote to me to say apparently your server was down & you never received the question:
Recently the Stop/Start button on my shower has been misfuncitoning and i have to press it repeatedly or hold it in to get the shower to stop/ start. Can this be remedied by replacing the PCB p/n 7072569?
Mark Dyas
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Submitted 184 days ago | by
Mark Dyas, Wirral CH63 9LZ
A: This is a difficult one without being able to see the shower. The easy answer is to say yes that board should fix the problem, however you could have the same symptoms if you had a faulty relay on the power pack PCB or a solenoid valve that is starting to go faulty. If once it starts running it will run on its own for say 10 mins then it is unlikely to be the solenoid. I think you probably need someone pressing the on/off button and someone watching the power pack to work out when the button is pressed, is the relay on the board making and staying engaged or is the relay on the power pack board failing and dropping out. The answer is probably a little confusing however without seeing this it is the best I can do. Answered 183 days ago | The Dov |
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Q: In the past week I’ve had a problem with the ‘START/STOP’ button on the control panel of my Triton T300si shower. I have to press it several times or hold it down to start or stop the shower. The rest of the panel seems to work fine. Based on this, would it appear to you that I need to replace the control PCB (Part No. TRITO-7072569)? Is this a user-replaceable part?
Mark Dyas
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Submitted 191 days ago | by
Mark Dyas, Wirral, Merseyside CH63 9LZ
A: Have you tried replacing the battery in the remote? Answered 190 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: our shower stays hot all the time.What part has gone wrong
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Submitted 203 days ago | by
gary, Rayleigh Essex
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
Answered 202 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: I have the t300si shower, it recently stopped working. When the isolator is switched on the unit carries out the start sequence as normal, finishing with the start button illuminated. pressing the start button dose not start the shower now. If you could advise on possible fault/s would grateful. Graham
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Submitted 258 days ago | by
Graham, London England
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 258 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hello. I have a TS300i and the water keeps coming out of the shower head even when the power is switched off. Do you think the solenid valve is stuck open? The coil itself has a good resistance test (3.47k).
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Submitted 263 days ago | by
Doug, Salisbury
A: It sounds like a faulty solenoid, here is how to check. If when you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid. When you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the water stops running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking on. Answered 263 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: JUST FITTED TRITONT300i,PRESSURE OK,INLET VALVE CLEAN,HOSES CLEAR.AFTER START UP PERIOD WHEN I PRESS START WATER SPURTS,STOP/START BUTTON FLASHES AND THERE IS A CLICKING NOISE AND 2 SPARKS COMING FROM PCB.THE SWITCH AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PCB AND PLUNGER AT THE TOP OF THE STABILISER VALVE ASSEMBLEY ARE CONSTANTLY SWITCHING ON AND OFF AT THE SAME TIME.WHAT NEEDS REPLACING?
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Submitted 282 days ago | by
blue, liverpool
A: Is it connected to the water mains? If it is then phone Triton it will be under guarantee if you fiddle about with it you may invalidate the guarantee. Answered 280 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My T300SI tripped the fuse when I used it recently. My son, a Plumber , checked it out and replaced a burnt out connecter. The shower worked a few times when he tested it but tripped the fuse again when I tried next morning. He now suspects the can assembly, which is an expensive part to buy without knowing for sure. Do you think this is the likely cause of the problem?
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Submitted 297 days ago | by
Rockape, Essex
A: Yes it most likely is the can assembly below is how to check. It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 295 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: I was wondering, if the can assembly could be upgraded in a power pack say for eg: from an 8.5kw to a 10.5kw? (assuming the electrical cable is sufficient).
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Submitted 319 days ago | by
Bryan, Swanwick
A: No the connections are different internally Answered 319 days ago | The doc |
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Q: when i turn my t300si shower on, the cold setting light comes on and the low pressure light flashes,but no water comes out of the shower head,do you have any ideas.
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Submitted 320 days ago | by
ginger, grays
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 319 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My T300si stopped in mid shower indicating low water pressure. My water pressure is very good and as high as ever but there is a very sleight leak around the solenoid valve. Help and advise please on which part or parts to replace. Also, is there an "O Ring" set available for this model? Thanks in advance
Regards
John P
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Submitted 364 days ago | by
john, Southend-On-Sea
Answered 362 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Hi, have one of these shower units which has suddenly started running at significantly reduced heat, no other symptoms and unlike some of the previous questions, although we live in a small village and are subject to frequent power cuts/brown-outs, I can't tie in the recent problem with the shower to any of these.
Since having the shower we have had the heating element/can replaced 3 times, each approx. 1 year apart and at a cost of £90-ish a go this is fast becoming unreasonable.
The price of your replacements are better, but of course I'll have to replace it myself. (I can do this).
Anyway to the actual question; is there a conclusive test to confirm that the heating element has actually gone or at least one of the two within the can? A basic continuity check on both elements gives me a dead short which I'm assuming is correct, I have also tested the TCO on top of the can (as per your video) and it too shows up as dead short (no resistance in either case).
Don't want to pay out another £70-ish without being certain.
The previous 2 times (Triton engineer) the wiring had overheated and burnt out (from mains in junction block to heating element), this was replaced each time, this time this has not happened.
Was actually starting to think there was a design flaw, but a scan across the net didn't reveal anything.
Sorry for the ramble, but I'm beginning to think a replacement might be the best option.
Any help/pointers would be much appreciated.
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Submitted 375 days ago | by
ma, Wychbold. WORCS.
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably the printed circuit board. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries
(so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878
Once you have established the fault replacement can be ordered online via the link below
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-36-Triton-T300si-Wireless Answered 375 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: when shower is turned on, water comes out of overflow, shower functions normally but with reduced flow that does not register on panel (low pressure light does not come on) What is the problem?
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Submitted 386 days ago | by
half soaked, s shropshire
Answered 386 days ago | Alastair
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Q: when switching shower on it jumps to economy setting,runs for roughly 15/20 secs then shuts of,then randomly switches itself on and of going from high setting to economy setting
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Submitted 392 days ago | by
stuman, dunfermline,fife.scotland
A: I think you may have a problem with the Power PCB However there is just a possibility that the solenoid valve is faulty see below for how to check. It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 391 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: The water is warm on "10" setting,have checked resistance on heater ,12ohms-15ohms.The thermal cutout (outlet)checked ok.
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Submitted 404 days ago | by
winni, wv37jp
A: Check the outlet thermal cut out mounted on the outlet pipe for continuity and check wiring visually for signs of over heating, in either case it will require replaccement. If tco ok then check that there is power to each of the elements and if not then a new power printed circuit board is required. Parts can be ordered online via the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-35-Triton-T300si-Remote Answered 399 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: Have just replaced the 9.5 v heater can in my T300si Remote. This was a fiddly but fairly straightforward job. However, when I turned the shower on to test it water sprayed out of the inlet pipe - the pipe that goes into the heating element can. Some did actually make it through to the shower head, but most of it went all over my bathroom floor.
Can't seem able to tighten the connection and have replaced and set up the heating element assembly exactly in the same way as the old one. Is there a washer/clamp I should have used?
Plumbers in short supply near me which is why I did this job myself and am gutted I've not got it right. Any advice gratefully received doctor.
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Submitted 438 days ago | by
Lemons
A: The pipe between the inlet valve and the tank have to enter each other absolutely square for this to stay sealed. A tip ....Slip the ‘O’ ring from the old tank on to the spigot of the new one (If it is the type where the spigot is long enough to take two ‘O’ rings) this helps to keep the assembly straight. Answered 438 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Our shower tripped the circuit breaker and when we reset it worked fine but only on half the heat - had to turn the control knob up twice as far to get as much hot water as before, with subsequent loss of flow. Is it the heateing element that has half burned out? Are they straightforward to replace?
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Submitted 475 days ago | by
Lemons
A: Yes it sounds like one of the elements in the heating tank has gone down. The links to the different heating cans are here http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/electric-showers/TRITO-PARENT-35-Triton-T300si-Remote The replacement is fairly straight forward.
Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantle most of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part out and the new part in. This sounds more difficult than it actually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc. come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos as you go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding. Answered 475 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: When I switch on the Cold & Low pressure lights come on & I only get a cold shower. A plumber has checked the water pressure & says it is OK
He thinks it may be a small component any suggestions for example "Thermal Safety Cut-out"
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Submitted 633 days ago | by
Bernard Mason
A: I also think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs Answered 631 days ago | The Doc |
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