Triton Amber III

A: It sounds like your can may be on its way out , but check its not the TCO on top first.

A: 

Forgettingabout the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold atfully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from thehose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do nothave this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve.

A: 

You have a faulty element in the heating tank you will needto replace the tank

A: 

You would normally use a compression type fitting

http://www.showerdoc.com/tools-and-fittings/plumbing-fittings/CITY-954300-Compression-Straight-Coupling---15mm

http://www.showerdoc.com/tools-and-fittings/plumbing-fittings/CITY-954356-City-Plumbing-Compression-Elbow-15mm-954356

A: The PRD needs replaced , it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below but check that the shower hose is not kinked or collapsed internally and the head is clear as these can cause the PRD to activate.
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-82800450-Triton-Pressure-Relief-Device-82800450

A: This is likely to be a solenoid coil fault , if you click on the link below it will take you to a video clip showing how to test and if needed change the coil and allow online ordering.
Remember to check in the failed state.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/HYDR-27600-Solenoid-Coil--Universal-(no-Valve)-27600

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: 

We can sell the complete wiring loom, however that’s fairly expensive especially when all you need is a short section of wire and a few connectors.

 

If you take the old bits of wire or a photo to Maplins or some where similar  http://www.maplin.co.uk/?C=GKW&U=TA&T=BRAND&gclid=COL2l9DGlY8CFRHREAodSTl2Fw  They will give you the bits you require and the tool for crimping the connectors on to the wires and all at less than half the price of a loom

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

Also as it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A: 

Hi

 

I think you have a micro switch stuck in the on position when you switch off your shower one micro switch keeps the power on to one of the elements and perhaps boils off some of the water inside, then the over heat safety device comes in and shuts the shower down.

 

The next time you come to use the shower because the heating tank isn’t full of water it starts to boil and that is how the shower starts coughing spluttering and issuing steam.

 

So you will have to look and see if you can spot the faulty switch and then replace it.

 

Until you fix the fault be sure to switch the shower off at the pull cord immediately you finish the shower  

 

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

 

A: Unfortunately that filter comes as part of the solenoid valve

A: This is a faulty solenoid valve which needs replaced, it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83300450-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-Assembly-83300450

A: At 6 months old the unit is still under g`tee so would suggest you contact Triton direct.
f for any reason this is not possible then you need to replace the solenoid valve which can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83300450-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-Assembly-83300450

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

A: 

All electric showers will produce less hot water when the temperature of the mains fall, however if you think the temperature is a real problem then it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: It is most likely to be the thermal cut out that has failed. If you click on the link below it will take you to a video clip showing how to test it and allowing online ordering.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-22010070-Thermal-cut-out

A: Check there is a minimum of 230volts at the connector block in the shower, if not then yhe pull switch has gone high resistance and needs replaced, it can be ordered online by clicking on the first link below.
If power ok then it is likely to be then solenoid coil which can be ordered using the second link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-installation/electrical-products/ELWBG002-45-Amp-Ceiling-Switch

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/HYDR-27600-Universal-Solenoid-Coil-(No-Valve)

A: Check that rhe mains stopcock and any isolation valve in the supply to the shower are fully open.
Check the hose is not kinked or internally collapsed and the shower head is clear.
Check the gauze inlet filter in the solenoid valve is clear.