Triton Aquatronic 1

A: Check the electrical connections first to see if there is a loose wire in the shower or the ceiling/ wall switch. Then, check the Thermal Cut Out (TCO).

A: 

A: 

A: http://www.showerdoc.com/trito-22003230-triton-microswitch-(2-pin)-22003230


two pin micro switches can be ordered from the above link.

A: 

Ipresume you mean the Outlet Thermal Cut Out, this is part of the outlet pipe assembly.

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83303980-Triton-Outlet-Pipe-%28-No-Wires-%29-83303980

A: 

The pressure relief device is a safety deviceon the bottom of the heating tank.

 

It is fairly easy to replace however there isusually something that causes it to blow,

often a kink in the hose or the showerhead isblocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83301330-PRD-(Pressure-Relief-Device)-and-'O'-ring-(Pair)?ss=prd&pg=2

 

There are fitting instructions that come withit, however  you need to switch off thepower and it is safer but not necessary to turn off the water supply to theunit.

You will need to remove the screws that holdthe heating tank in place and probably slacken off some other screws to allowenough movement to give you room to remove the existing PRD

The only thing to watch is that you make surethat you remove the existing ‘O’ ring as it can stick in position and the newPRD will not fit if the existing ‘O’ Ring is left in place

.

 

 

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allowspower through to the elements.

 

You could also check that bothelements are working properly.

 

See below

 

It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have amultimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: 

Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap.

 

However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit  (Tritons word not mine!)

 

The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions.

 

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

 

See Video at the foot of the page

 

A: Theree is no direct swap for this shower but the Triton T70z is designed for ease of retrofit and should be straightforward to install . appropriate wattage model can be ordered online by clicking on this link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton/electric-showers

A: 

I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out


A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements until the water cools, this can take up to 15mins)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

 

 

When fitting a new TCO listen to the shower, after it has completed its first on/off cycle, if when it is switched off you hear it continuing to heat (Noise like a kettle starting to boil) this will mean that there is a switch or a relay that is stuck in the on position, this is keeping an element energised and this is probably what caused the original TCO to fail.

If this is the case replace the faulty switch or relay and make sure that you switch the shower off at the isolating switch when the shower is not in use or this will cause the new TCO to fail.

 

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

 

 

A: 

No.

This shower does not have a solenoid therefore the water will continue to flow

A: Check the shower hose is not kinked or collapsed internally and the shower head is clear.
Check that incoming water mains stopcock and any isolation valve in the feed to the shower are fully open.
Check with your supplier if there has been any reduction in supply flow or pressure.
If all above are ok then it is likely to be the stabiliser valve at fault and a replacement can be ordered online by clicking on this link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-82600720-Triton-Stabilising-Valve-Assembly---7kw-82600720

A: 

I think the pressure relief device has blown.

 

It’s a safety device on the bottom of the heating tank.

 

It is fairly easy to replace however there is usually something that causes it to blow,

often a kink in the hose or the showerhead is blocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83301330-PRD-(Pressure-Relief-Device)-and-'O'-ring-(Pair)?ss=prd&pg=2

 

Sounds like you also have a leak from the top of the stabiliser valve (Not an uncommon fault) which will need replaced.

http://showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-82600720-Triton-Stabilising-Valve-Assembly---7kw-82600720

 

 

 

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

 

A: You need to establish where the leak actually is but it is most likely to be the stabiliser valve although there is a slight possibility it may be the pressure relief device. If you click on the link below you will see where these are and be able to order part reequired onlibne.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-42-Triton-Aquatronic-1

A: Does the water run out of the clear tube item no 6 under the heater can assembly ?