Q: Each time the shower is switch on and water comes out of the shower head water also starts pouring out of the 2 small slit holes on the front of the cartridge/stabiliser valve assembly.
Is there anything I can do or does this require a new part?
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Submitted 4 days ago | by
Lee, Warrington
Answered 1 day ago | The Doc
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Q: When using the shower it goes from hot to cool and back to hot then cools again
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Submitted 6 days ago | by
Jimbob, Inverness
A: We are having a problem at themoment with our ticketing system it is running words together, we have peopleworking on it!! The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety devicewill turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowingthe correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control tofully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribblethen turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have afaulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
Have a look at the outlet TCO
The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going toit and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank andthe hose)
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs ofoverheating then the TCO needs replaced. Answered 6 days ago | The Doc A: We are having a problem at themoment with our ticketing system it is running words together, we have peopleworking on it!! The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety devicewill turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowingthe correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control tofully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribblethen turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have afaulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
Have a look at the outlet TCO
The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going toit and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank andthe hose)
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs ofoverheating then the TCO needs replaced. Answered 6 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: ONLY GETS TEPIDE
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Submitted 73 days ago | by
Brad, Kettering
A: Sorry for the delay It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 64 days ago | The doc |
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Q:
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Submitted 104 days ago | by
Bill, Melton Mowbray, Leics
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Or The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose) Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced. Answered 104 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: My Shower is too hot all the time is it the thermal cut out that needs replacing ?
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Submitted 209 days ago | by
Mark, Kent
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Answered 209 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Even when isolation switch is off. I had to turn it off at the inlet pipe. PLEASE HELP!
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Submitted 237 days ago | by
nicserp, brighton
A: I think it needs a new solenoid valve. Answered 237 days ago | The doc |
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Q: My shower has recently started switching from normal, to then cold, to then very hot and so on like clockwork, reaching a peak of both hot then to cold every few minuites
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Submitted 237 days ago | by
stu, coventry
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Answered 237 days ago | The doc A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Answered 237 days ago | The doc |
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Q: The water is leaking from the shower cable (connecting the unit with the shower head). The water comes from the connection from the cable to the unit, and as a result only a dribble of water is coming out of the shower head. If i push and hold the cable up into the unit so as to compress it, the water can then pass through the cable and the shower starts working again.
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Submitted 248 days ago | by
Steve, Coventry
Answered 247 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Water runs constantly through the shower head, even when the unit and the pull cord switch are both off !!!! Had to turn off at the isolation tap.
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Submitted 272 days ago | by
ianto, grantham
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Q: as I will have to change the old unit for a new one, the original has an MCB on the fuse board, is this still ok or do I now need an extra RCD?
thanks
Leigh
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Submitted 334 days ago | by
waterboy, london
A: As long as the replacement is the same wattage as cureent the mcb is fine. Answered 334 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: there is power to the unit and all cables look ok with no burn or brown marks, power is ok all the way to and including part 11 but the shower will not run at all.
the fault started with the shower only turning off by the main pull cord switch not the unit, now nothing runs. please advise is it repairable or will I have to get a complete new unit.
thanks
leigh
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Submitted 335 days ago | by
waterboy, london
A: This is almost certainly a faulty switching assembly which is now obsolete so a new shower is required.Our recommended replacement is the Triton T80z which whilst not a direct replacement should be fairly straightforward to install. The appropriate wattage T80z can be ordered online via the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton/electric-showers Answered 335 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: when i turn my shower on it trips the rcd any ideas
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Submitted 347 days ago | by
smiff, cheshunt
Answered 346 days ago | Alastair
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Q: The shower runs hot and cold intermittently on all settings, why?
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Submitted 373 days ago | by
Mike, plymouth
A: This may be a water flow problem in that it is too low. Check that shower hose is not kinked or collapsed internally and that shower head is clear. Check with your water supplier that there has not been a reduction in flow or pressure in mains supply. Check that mains stopcock and any isolatioon valve in the shower supply are fully open. Check that gauze filter in inlet to solenoid valve is clear. If all above are ok then it is likely to be the stabiliser at fault and as this is now obsolete and no longer available a new shower is required. Our recommended replacement is the Triton T80z and the appropriate wattage model can be ordered online via the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton/electric-showers Answered 370 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: The unit works OK on cold and economy setting but immediately trips out the electrics when turned to max power.
I'm a DIY virgin.
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Submitted 376 days ago | by
Tex, Rugeley,Staffs
A: This is almost certainly a faulty element in the heating can which unfortunately is obsolete and no longer available so a new shower is required. Our recommended replacement is the Triton T80z 8.5kw, whilst not a direct replacement should be fairly straightforward, it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z Electric-Shower-8-5kW-(White-Chrome) Answered 376 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: Why is there only a little bit of hot/warm water coming from our Aquatronic2?
Even cold water is not on full pressure, I noticed. the change was quite suddenly a few month ago. I really need to turn on full hot (10) to get warm water. the shower is more dripping than anything else.
Any thoughts what is faulty?
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Submitted 386 days ago | by
Dennis, London
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 385 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: shower has stopped working , power ok , it has tried coming through for a couple of seconds then stops, no more water coming out, any idea,s.
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Submitted 425 days ago | by
bt pete, n w kent
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 424 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: water is flowing from overflow of our shower triton aquatronic 2 model No 95700480 serial No 00040366 can I simply replace boiler part?
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Submitted 446 days ago | by
Rodders
Answered 446 days ago | The Doc
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Q: hi we have a triton aqa 2 model number95700480.there is water coming out of the pressure relief valve.is there a spare part for this prob.
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Submitted 558 days ago | by
bob
A: If water is escaping via the clear outlet tube coming out of the bottom of the shower then you will need to replace the PRD (Pressure Relief Device )
This item is usually activated due to one of the following below:
Hose was kinked during the shower
Showerhead blocked and needs cleaned
Hose collapsed inside the outer tube
a burst of pressure to the shower (EG: water board had the water off for repairs then turning it back on) Answered 558 days ago | SD |
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