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Q: The plastic semi circular piece the shower head sit in has snapped in half and wont support the shower head so we have to hold it whilst showering. It looks like it could only be replaced if the whole shower support was replaced. Can this be purchased? I bought the shower in 2007.
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Submitted 25 days ago | by
Sue, North West
Answered 25 days ago | Barrie
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Q: Every time I switch on my shower it blows the trip about 1-2 seconds later. Could this be the hi-heat side of the element that has gone and would I need to change the heater can assy?
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Submitted 81 days ago | by
a23john, West Sussex
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester
If this is ok it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. Answered 80 days ago | Barrie
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Q: when the shower is on the low temp setting there is a good strong blast of water from the shower head, but when i turn it up to the hotter settings then the pressure drops dramatically and i can confirm that the prssure light is NOT lit
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Submitted 192 days ago | by
Anonymous, Unknown
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 189 days ago | The doc
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Q: I want to purchase a replacement for the plastic holder the shower head slots into as it has been broken and shower head flops about.
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Submitted 193 days ago | by
Anonymous, Stoke on trent
A: You need to measure the diameter of your rail before purchasing to be certain you get the correct slider, theyt are normally 18mm / 19mm / 20.4mm / 22mm or 25mm. Once you have the correct measurement then you will find all the Triton sliders via this link provided - http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/slider-brackets/tritonIf you dont find a suitable shower head please email us photos and the measurements of your broken slider and email them to us via the Contact Us page on the website. Answered 187 days ago | LC
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Q: We recently had the water supply interrupted to our house. The water supply and pressure is restored and seems the same as before. Since this incident our Aquatronic 3 Ultra ( only just 2 years old) no longer gets hot. The water comes thru fine when you switch on and both the power and pressure lights are on. As soon as you turn the temperature selector to 7/8 the power light goes off and the water temperature remains cold. Can you tell me what the problem is likely to be and can I fix it?
Regards,
Brian Goodacre
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Submitted 245 days ago | by
need a hot shower Brian, Ness, Wirral, C
Answered 242 days ago | Alastair
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Q: shower stops after about 10 seconds. the pressure light comes on and will only restart briefly if left awile. is it the solonoid valve?
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Submitted 427 days ago | by
matt, brighton
A: Yes it certainly sounds like the solenoid valve It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 426 days ago | The Doc
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Q: the shower goes hot and cold
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Submitted 428 days ago | by
marc, northampton
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Also as it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO
The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose) Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced. Answered 427 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Can you please advise if it's possible to purchase a soap dish for the AQUATRONIC ULTRA 3 Electric Shower
Thank you
Nick GARDNER
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Submitted 430 days ago | by
pyro, Wallington
Answered 427 days ago | Anonymous
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Q: as above made a loud noise for around a minute like it was filling a tank up and now only pushing through cold water no hot water coming through any ideas?
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Submitted 461 days ago | by
guesty, dudley
A: This could be two faults. I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs You may also have a faulty heating tank. It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 460 days ago | The Doc
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Q: the shower stopped by its self then started again, this morning was working fine then just stopped dead - no water at all. Power and lights all on. water supply to house normal.
checked solenoid valve ok reading 3.6. what causing the problem
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Submitted 494 days ago | by
luke, west midlands
A: Did you check the solenoid immediately after the shower stopped working? A minute or two can give the solenoid enough time to recover Answered 494 days ago | The Doc
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