Triton Aquatronic 4 electric

A: 

I think the pressure relief device has blown.

 

It’s a safety device on the bottom of theheating tank.

 

It is fairly easy to replace however there isusually something that causes it to blow,

often a kink in the hose or the showerhead isblocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83301330-PRD-(Pressure-Relief-Device)-and-'O'-ring-(Pair)?ss=prd&pg=2

 

 

 

 

A: 

If the shower is absolutely cold then I thinkyou may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals(The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and afaulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts thepower off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

 

Ifthere is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there aretwo, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter youshould have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to theelements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to theelements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking andtesting the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply toappliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left inbatteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

A: 

Yes it is probably one of the wires inside overheating.

 

This is probably caused by a poor connection.

 

Switch the power off remove the cover and have a look for anythingoverheating.

 

You may just have to tighten something up or more likely youwill have to replace a section of wire.

A: 

 The first things to check are:

 

1  That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

 

2  Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

 

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water

getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore no power will get to the elements and the unit will show low pressure.

 

Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer  valve

 

Finally when you turn the water on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator on top of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of the PCB make sure they are properly aligned.

 

If all these are OK then you probably have a fault with your PCB.

 

The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCB however they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the low pressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB.

 

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: 

As long as the cover is intact I would fit a new outlet pipe and replace a section of the wires.

A: Would replace the stabiliser valve assy , the appropriate one can be ordered online via this link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-50-Triton-Aquatronic-4-electric

A: 

For safety you are going to need a new front cover

A: 

I think your fuse is to small

 

8.5kw  =  35amp

9.5kw  =  40amp

10.5kw = 45amp

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: Firstly a simple check , did you transfer the plastic actuator from the top of the old stab valve to the new one ?
If you did check that with shower on the actuator is operating the small push button switch on the bottom of the printed circuit board.
If not then it is likely to be a supply pressure problem or a blocked filter in the inlet to the solenoid valve.
If the switch is activated then it is likely to be the pcb at fault.
Any parts can be ordered online via the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-50-Triton-Aquatronic-4-electric

A: There is no direct replacement but the Triton T80z is the most straightforward to fit and the appropriate wattage model can be ordered online via this link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton/electric-showers

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allows power through to the elements.

Also is it still connected to the water mains?

 

 

A: 

It’s a new valve you need.

It’s not a common fault but certainly not unheard of.

 

A: 

Yes probably the solenoid valve  see below for how to check.

 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

A: 

 The first things to check are:

 

1  That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

 

2  Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

 

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water

getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore no power will get to the elements

and the unit will show low pressure.

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

 

Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer  valve

 

Finally when you turn the water on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator on top of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of the PCB make sure they are properly aligned.

 

If all these are OK then you probably have a fault with your PCB.

 

The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCB however they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the low pressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB.

A: 

 

If when you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid.

 

When you switch off the shower at the main isolator  and the water stops  running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking on.

 

Also you could have one of the relays on the PCB stuck in the on position which is keeping one of the elements energised and this is boiling off the water in the heating tank and you are seeing this dribbling out.

 

If this is the fault, if you listen to the shower you should hear it continuing to heat when you have switched it off

 

 

A: 

 

If when you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid.

 

When you switch off the shower at the main isolator  and the water stops  running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking on.

 

Also you could have one of the relays on the PCB stuck in the on position which is keeping one of the elements energised and this is boiling off the water in the heating tank and you are seeing this dribbling out.

 

If this is the fault, if you listen to the shower you should hear it continuing to heat when you have switched it off

 

 

A: 

If when you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid.

 

When you switch off the shower at the main isolator  and the water stops  running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking on.

A: Would agree with you that it is likely to be the main tco on top of the tank but also check out the outlet tco on the outlet pipe.
Either or both can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-50-Triton-Aquatronic-4-electric

A: This is almost certainly either the main thermal cut out on top of the heating can, but also check the outlet thermal cut out on the outlet pipe. Either or both can be ordered online via the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-50-Triton-Aquatronic-4-electric

A: The switches are an integral part of the front cover, if you click on the link below it will take you to the parts listand you can order the correct one for your shower and order online.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-50-Triton-Aquatronic-4-electric

A: 

If you have no heat at all then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

 

If you have some heat then it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

Or The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe  (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)

Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced.   

  

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

 

 

 

 

A: 

Turning its self off may be a faulty solenoid valve.

 

The burning smell is likely to be a wire melting.

 

Switch the power off remove the cover and see if you can spot where the overheating is coming from

Solenoid check below

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

A: 

You are going to have to switch the power off and have a look inside to see if you can work out where the leak is coming  from

 

The two most likely places are the PRD and the top of the stabilizer valve

A: 

My first thought would be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

 

 

 

 

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: 

It is just possible you have two faults check both things below

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: 

I think you have a relay on the power board that is sticking in the on position.

The board will have to be replaced.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/electric-showers/TRITO-7072052-Power-PCB- (Click-here-before-ordering)

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/electric-showers/TRITO-7073333-Power-PCB

Make sure that the shower is switched off at the isolator when not in use.