Triton Aquatronic 4 Plus

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be the correct flow of water through the shower.

Also important is the external water pressure you need at least 1bar if your pressure is around one bar or lower then someone opening a tap elsewhere can have an effect on your flow/pressure which can cause the shower temperature to fluctuate.

 

You could give your local water authority a ring an ask them what your water pressure should be, they will probably say that the supply a minimum of 1bar (the minimum required to operate a shower)however press them and ask what it is likely to be first thing in the morning (when everybody is showering)

 

They could have the pressure turned down because they are working on the main, or because there is a burst pipe some where and they have turned the pressure down to try to save water, or the pressure maybe low just because there is a burst pipe somewhere, that hasn’t been discovered yet!

A: 

I am afraid it is a case of replacing the complete thing there no seals for this part

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably tyhe power printed circuit board.
Required part(s) can be ordered online via the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-50-Triton-Aquatronic-4-electric

A: 

If when you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid.

 

When you switch off the shower at the main isolator  and the water stops  running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking on.

 

 

A: Check water mains stopcock and any isolation valve in feed to the shower are fully open.
Check with your supplier there has been no reduction in supply pressure or flow.
Check gauze filter in inlet to shower is clear.
If all above are ok then with shower on check that actuator on top of stabiliser valve is activating small switch on bottom of printed circuit board , if not the a new stabiliser valve is required.
If it is activating the switch then a new power printed circuit board is needed , either part can be ordered online via the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/mira/MIRA-415-48-Mira-Pcb-Assembly-415-48

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

 

Is it connected to the water mains? If it is then, you could give your local water authority a ring an ask them what your water pressure should be, they will probably say that the supply a minimum of 1bar (the minimum required to operate a shower)however press them and ask what it is likely to be first thing in the morning (when everybody is showering)

 

They could have the pressure turned down because they are working on the main, or because there is a burst pipe some where and they have turned the pressure down to try to save water, or the pressure maybe low just because there is a burst pipe somewhere, that hasn’t been discovered yet!

A: 

If when you switch off the water keeps running then you need a new solenoid valve.

 

If it only runs for a short time then after you switch off then you probably have a faulty PCB, if this is the case make sure that the shower is switched off at the isolation switch when it is not in use.

 

http://showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-50-Triton-Aquatronic-4-electric

A: 

If it is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

 

However if there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: 

The humming /buzzing noise usually comes from the solenoid valve  however you would normally only hear that if you were relatively close to the shower.

 

The only other thing in the shower that could cause this would be the stabilizer valve if it is this then you should be able to hear the noise coming from it.

 

If you can hear it through the pipes then it could also be water hammer

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

 

 You could give your local water authority a ring an ask them what your water pressure should be, they will probably say that the supply a minimum of 1bar (the minimum required to operate a shower)however press them and ask what it is likely to be first thing in the morning (when everybody is showering)

 

They could have the pressure turned down because they are working on the main, or because there is a burst pipe some where and they have turned the pressure down to try to save water, or the pressure maybe low just because there is a burst pipe somewhere, that hasn’t been discovered yet!