Triton Aspirante XR electric

A: 

If the shower is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

 

If there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

 

 

 

 

A: Check that the shower hose is not kinked or collapsed internally and the head is clear.
Check that incoming mains water stopcock and any isolation valve in the feed to the shower are fully open.
Check with your supplier if there has been any reduction in water supply flow or pressure.
Check the gauze filter in the inlet to the solenoid valve is clear.
If all above ok then it is likely to be the stabiliser valve at fault , replacement can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-P12120801-Triton-Stabiliser-Valve-solenoid-Assembly-P12120801