Triton Bewitch

A: 

We are having a problem at the moment with our ticketing systemit is running words together, we have people working on it!!

 

I think the pressure relief device has blown.

 

It’s a safety device on the bottom of theheating tank.

 

It is fairly easy to replace however there isusually something that causes it to blow,

often a kink in the hose or the showerhead isblocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83301330-PRD-(Pressure-Relief-Device)-and-'O'-ring-(Pair)?ss=prd&pg=2

 

 

A: 

You need to replace the solenoid valve

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

A: 

Not sure I understand the question......However

Switch on at isolator (Pull Cord Switch)

Press large button at top of shower, select high power, and adjust temperature using bottom control

A: It is almost certainly a fault with the power PCB

A: This is mot likely to be a faulty solenoid coil , if you click on the link below it will take you to a video clip showing how to test and if required change it and allow you to order areplacement online . Remember to test in the failed condition.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/HYDR-27600-Solenoid-Coil--Universal-(no-Valve)-27600

A: Check that incoming mains water stopcock and any isolation valve in feed to shower are fully open.
Check with your supplier if there has been any reduction in supply flow or pressure.
Check that gauze filter in inlet to solenoid valve is clear
When shower is running check that actuator on top of the stabiliser valve is activating the small push button switch on the bottom of the pcb. If it is not then it is likely to be the stabiliser valve at fault but if it is then itb is the pcb at fault.
Required part can be ordered online via this link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-7072052-Triton-Power-Pcb-7072052

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

A: The rail on your shower is 22mm in diameter and you will need to now order this part in the link provided - http://www.showerdoc.com/trito-83313470-triton-showerhead-holder-22mm-white-83313470

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools, then it all starts again or there is not enough pressure to open / close the safety device that allows power through to the elements

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

You could give your local water authority a ring an ask them what your water pressure should be, they will probably say that the supply a minimum of 1bar (the minimum required to operate a shower)however press them and ask what it is likely to be first thing in the morning (when everybody is showering)

 

They could have the pressure turned down because they are working on the main, or because there is a burst pipe some where and they have turned the pressure down to try to save water, or the pressure maybe low just because there is a burst pipe somewhere, that hasn’t been discovered yet!

 

 

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

 

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

Also as it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced.

 

 

 

A: 

It may be that an element in the heating tank has “blown” and this has caused the PRD to fail so first check the elements if they are OK then just replace the PRD if they are not then you will have to replace the heating tank, which comes with a new PRD

 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

I think the pressure relief device has blown.

 

It’s a safety device on the bottom of the heating tank.

 

It is fairly easy to replace however there is usually something that causes it to blow,

often a kink in the hose or the showerhead is blocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83301330-PRD-(Pressure-Relief-Device)-and-'O'-ring-(Pair)?ss=prd&pg=2

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: 

Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap.

 

However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit  (Tritons word not mine!)

 

The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions.

 

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

 

See Video at the foot of the page

 

A: 

Sounds like a faulty element, the shower is under guarantee so I would contact Triton and they will send out an engineer.

 

There is just an outside possibility that you have a faulty pullcord switch.

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

Or it may be the outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe  (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)

Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced. If it is the out let TCO then I would replace it as it is not an expensive part if it is the can the n I would go for a new shower.

 

Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap.

 

However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit  (Tritons word not mine!)

 

The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions.

 

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

 

See Video at the foot of the page

  

 

 

 

A: 

 

If when you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid.

 

When you switch off the shower at the main isolator  and the water stops  running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking on.

The other possibility is when you switch the shower off there is a switch that is sticking in the on position, this is keeping one of the elements energised and what is happening is that it keeps heating and  you think it is not switching off, what is in fact happening is the water inside the shower is boiling off and coming out the head, which in turn means that the next time you turn the shower on it has to fill its self up, making you think it has run dry.

 

 

 

A: With the isolation switch on check there is a minimum of 230volts at the connector block in the shower, if not the isolation switch has gone high resistenca and needs to be replaced.
If power is ok then it is likely to be the solenoid coil at fault, if you click on the link below it will take you to a video clip showing how to test and change it and allow onkline ordering.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/HYDR-27600-Hydra-Universal-Solenoid-Coil-(no-Valve)-27600

A: 

Hi,

shower started dripping cold water, Needs a new solenoid valve

 

 then 1 day later very cool water even when temperature turned to highest setting, Probably a faulty element in the heating tank Needs a new tank

 

 now low pressure light activated. If no water then it needs a new solenoid if you still have water then you need a new PCB

Suspect the stabiliser unit has stared leaking If the stabiliser is leaking then it needs replaced

 

and in turn caued the solenoid to fail? If there is water coming through then it is OK unless it stops mid shower

What do you suggest? ....New Shower!.... Triton T80Z

 

Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap.

 

However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit  (Tritons word not mine!)

 

The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions.

 

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

 

See Video at the foot of the page

A: 

I presume that you mean that the water is coming from the shower head?

 

If it is then you need a new solenoid valve

 

Here is the link

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83304130-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-Assembly-83304130

A: The pressure relief device has activated and needs to be replaced, it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.
Before fitting check that shower hose is not kinked or collapsed internally and shower head is clear.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83301330-Triton-Prd-(pressure-Relief-Device)-And-O-Ring-(pair)-83301330

A: When it is running cold check the thermal cut out on top of the heating can for continuity.
If open circuit then it needs tto be replaced.
If tcvo ok then again when cold check for power to the heating elements and if none then it is the power printed circuit board at fault.
If by temp control you mean the knob it is part of the front cover assy.
Any or all of these parts can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-62-Triton-Bewitch

A: 

Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap.

 

However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit  (Tritons word not mine!)

 

The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions.

 

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

 

See Video at the foot of the page

 

A: 

If the water is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

 

A: This is most likely a power printed circuit board which can be ordered online via the link below. There were 2 models of pcb fitted to this shower so check which one you need.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-62-Triton-Bewitch

A: Yes it does and can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-P10120600-Cover-assembly

A: Follow this link

http://www.showerdoc.com/product-filter?ss=%2083301330

Instructions come with them

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally


Also as it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced.

A: 

 

Do you mean that when you switch the shower on the light in the pull cord goes off?

If that’s what is happening then you have a faulty pull cord switch, it needs replaced.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-installation/electrical-products/ELWBG002-45-Amp-Ceiling-Switch

A: This is a classic description of a heater element "blowing" while in use. If you click on the link below you can choose the appropriate heating can and order online.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-62-Triton-Bewitch

A: The solenoid valve has failed open and needs to be replaced, it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83304130-Solenoid-valve-assembly

A: It is most likely to be the solenoid coil at fault, if you click on the link beloiw it will take you to a video clip showing how to test and change and allow online ordering of replacement.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/HYDR-27600-Universal-Solenoid-Coil-(No-Valve)

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

Also if it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced.

A: Check that with shower on the piston on top of the stab valve is activating the little switch on the bottom of the circuit board, if it is then the pcb needs replacing. It can be ordered online by clicking on the link below but make sure that the number you order is the same as on the present board.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-7072052-Power-PCB- (Click-here-before-ordering)

A: The Triton T80z 10.5kw is designed as a retrofit for almost all electric showers and is suitable for you. It can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8001ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---10-5kW-(White-Chrome)?pg=2

Alastair