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Q: When I switch my bewitch on at the isolator, the water just comes out of the overflow at the bottom of the shower unit. What do I need to replace?
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Submitted 5 days ago | by
CDPDesign, East Yorkshire
A: We are having a problem at the moment with our ticketing systemit is running words together, we have people working on it!! I think the pressure relief device has blown. It’s a safety device on the bottom of theheating tank. It is fairly easy to replace however there isusually something that causes it to blow, often a kink in the hose or the showerhead isblocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD. http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83301330-PRD-(Pressure-Relief-Device)-and-'O'-ring-(Pair)?ss=prd&pg=2 Answered 4 days ago | The Doc
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Q: water continues to flow when shower is switched off, even when mains power is turned off
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Submitted 53 days ago | by
Anonymous, ML3
A: You need to replace the solenoid valve Answered 53 days ago | The Doc
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Q: HAS BEEN WORKING FINE NOW IT IS VERY HOT AND CANNOT TURN TEMP DOWN ON DAILS
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Submitted 87 days ago | by
STU, AYLESBURY
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
Answered 84 days ago | The Doc
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Q: how to on shower and use hot water?
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Submitted 96 days ago | by
paul, london
A: Not sure I understand the question......However Switch on at isolator (Pull Cord Switch) Press large button at top of shower, select high power, and adjust temperature using bottom control Answered 95 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Hi I have a Triton Bewitch and it keeps switching itself on and continues running until the power is cut off. Could this be the solenoid please
Thank you
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Submitted 103 days ago | by
Tim, Bristol
A: It is almost certainly a fault with the power PCB Answered 102 days ago | The doc
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Q: shower will run for two to three mins and low pressure light will come on and water will stop
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Submitted 124 days ago | by
nish, Birmingham
Answered 124 days ago | Alastair
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Q: the low pressure warning light flicks on and off at random intervals (along with the associated temperature changes that wait for me to step in the shower... brrr) sometimes it stays on for minutes other times less than a second, it also flickers between states, If I turn a cold tap on when the unit is running properly it does not activate the low pressure system but does effect flow. When the warning light activates the flow out of the spray head does not vary. Am I right in assuming that the PCB is faulty?
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Submitted 161 days ago | by
gaz, callington, cornwall
A: Check that incoming mains water stopcock and any isolation valve in feed to shower are fully open. Check with your supplier if there has been any reduction in supply flow or pressure. Check that gauze filter in inlet to solenoid valve is clear When shower is running check that actuator on top of the stabiliser valve is activating the small push button switch on the bottom of the pcb. If it is not then it is likely to be the stabiliser valve at fault but if it is then itb is the pcb at fault. Required part can be ordered online via this link. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-7072052-Triton-Power-Pcb-7072052 Answered 161 days ago | Alastair
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Q: hi i changed the pcb and temp stat and the shower is now boiling the water help please
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Submitted 165 days ago | by
johnny99, ireland
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
Answered 165 days ago | The Doc
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Q: I need a new spray head holder for this model. Could you lease advise me of the size. Is it 18mm or 21mm or somehing else? Thanks
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Submitted 166 days ago | by
Richard , Bristol
Answered 164 days ago | LC
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Q: Hi Doctor, hope you can help...
My Bewitch is behaving as follows:
1) Press Hot or Econ Button - button light comes on
2) Pressure light comes on straight away
3) Cold output for 20secs
4) Pressure light off
5) Hot output for 5 secs (warm if turn dial on min, hot on max)
6) Pressure light comes on
7) repeat 3) to 7) etc
I've observed the following:
a) No diff in cycling between Min & Max on the turn dial
b) Longer cold cycles when on econ button
c) Got worse over last month
d) No noticeable pressure drop over last month
e) Inlet solenoid gets quite warm
f) No burnt/damaged connections on either TCO (parts 6 & 7 in diag)
g) Continuity test OK on both TCO's
h) Behaviour is same with head on or off
i) No kinks in hose
j) Soft water area
k) Haven't checked inlet filter
l) Tried 15min run on cold setting (Tritron FAQ)
m) On all three power settings theres decent pressure (hard to put thumb over end of hose with head off)
Many thanks in advance
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Submitted 175 days ago | by
Weefer, Pembrokeshire
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn the power off until it cools, then it all starts again or there is not enough pressure to open / close the safety device that allows power through to the elements
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
You could give your local water authority a ring an ask them what your water pressure should be, they will probably say that the supply a minimum of 1bar (the minimum required to operate a shower)however press them and ask what it is likely to be first thing in the morning (when everybody is showering) They could have the pressure turned down because they are working on the main, or because there is a burst pipe some where and they have turned the pressure down to try to save water, or the pressure maybe low just because there is a burst pipe somewhere, that hasn’t been discovered yet!
Answered 174 days ago | The Doc
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Q: temperature altenates from hot to cold and pressure light keeps displaying when waters running cold
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Submitted 195 days ago | by
tina, kent
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Q: our shower swtiches on fine then few seconds goes cold the back to normal then cold again and it keeps clicking when it is about to go cold, what is wrong?
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Submitted 208 days ago | by
julie, somerset
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Answered 208 days ago | The Doc
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Q: temperature changes when on
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Submitted 258 days ago | by
macca, bristol
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Also as it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO
The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose) Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced. Answered 257 days ago | The Doc
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Q: No hot water,some cold water coming out of shower head but mainly out of overflow.
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Submitted 275 days ago | by
Rusty, bristol
A: It may be that an element in the heating tank has “blown” and this has caused the PRD to fail so first check the elements if they are OK then just replace the PRD if they are not then you will have to replace the heating tank, which comes with a new PRD It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester I think the pressure relief device has blown. It’s a safety device on the bottom of the heating tank. It is fairly easy to replace however there is usually something that causes it to blow, often a kink in the hose or the showerhead is blocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD. http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83301330-PRD-(Pressure-Relief-Device)-and-'O'-ring-(Pair)?ss=prd&pg=2 Answered 273 days ago | The Doc
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Q: During a shower yesterday the water went really cold and we now need to turn the temperature dial up to max to get any hot water. Usually it would only need to go up about a third of the way.
Any idea if this can be fixed or will it need replaced?
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Submitted 294 days ago | by
souldriver, Great Britain
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 293 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Hi,my loved Triton Bewitched 9.5W has died, which product has matching fitting holes so that i wont have to drill into the tiles? Thanks in advance.
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Submitted 311 days ago | by
unic275, East Midlands
Answered 311 days ago | The Doc
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Q: triton hawaii 2 shower its only 5mths old but when i went to put the isolater switch by the cord it sent all my electric off tried again it happened again then tried it later isolater light came on but water from the shower was lukewarm
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Submitted 313 days ago | by
kimlolly, staffs
A: Sounds like a faulty element, the shower is under guarantee so I would contact Triton and they will send out an engineer. There is just an outside possibility that you have a faulty pullcord switch. Answered 312 days ago | The Doc
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Q: My Bewitch struggles to get up to a good temperature when in use. It doesn't cycle to completely cold then hot but stays at a low temperature even with highest setting.
Could this be the heater can or another part at fault and considering the age of the unit should I just replace it?
Thanks
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Submitted 317 days ago | by
markibanez, Sheffield
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Or it may be the outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose) Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced. If it is the out let TCO then I would replace it as it is not an expensive part if it is the can the n I would go for a new shower. Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap. However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit (Tritons word not mine!) The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions. Here is the link. http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome) See Video at the foot of the page Answered 315 days ago | The Doc
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Q: I seem to have a problem when moving the shower head on my Triton.When you remove the shower head from the wall holder say to clean tiles off this happens.The problem has been going on since i have had the shower (About 10 Years).Wnen finishing having a shower the shower will not switch off on unit.I have to turn off at isolation switch.This usually corrects its self after a few days, weeks.Also shower runs dry but this also correct its self.
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Submitted 320 days ago | by
novsun, Basingstoke
A: If when you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid. When you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the water stops running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking on. The other possibility is when you switch the shower off there is a switch that is sticking in the on position, this is keeping one of the elements energised and what is happening is that it keeps heating and you think it is not switching off, what is in fact happening is the water inside the shower is boiling off and coming out the head, which in turn means that the next time you turn the shower on it has to fill its self up, making you think it has run dry. Answered 319 days ago | The doc
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Q: When i pull the cord for the shower the light stays on but on the shower unit the red light does not appear and there is no power, this is for a bewitch triton elictric .
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Submitted 345 days ago | by
tracy, milton keynes
Answered 344 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Hi, shower started dripping cold water, then 1 day later very cool water even when temperature turned to highest setting, now low pressure light activated.
Suspect the stabiliser unit has stared leaking and in turn caued the solenoid to fail?
What do you suggest?
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Submitted 349 days ago | by
mb, essex
A: Hi, shower started dripping cold water, Needs a new solenoid valve then 1 day later very cool water even when temperature turned to highest setting, Probably a faulty element in the heating tank Needs a new tank now low pressure light activated. If no water then it needs a new solenoid if you still have water then you need a new PCB
Suspect the stabiliser unit has stared leaking If the stabiliser is leaking then it needs replaced and in turn caued the solenoid to fail? If there is water coming through then it is OK unless it stops mid shower
What do you suggest? ....New Shower!.... Triton T80Z Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap. However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit (Tritons word not mine!) The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions. Here is the link. http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome) See Video at the foot of the page Answered 348 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Shower works fine, I have checked the hose and cleaned the shower head, but when you turn the shower off there is a constantly slim stream of water coming from the unit, as if the washer needed changing)
Any idea please!!
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Submitted 357 days ago | by
Linwe, UK Kent
Answered 356 days ago | The Doc
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Q: i have water coming from the head and overflo when in use.
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Submitted 373 days ago | by
louie, kent
Answered 371 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Hi there. My triton bewitch keeps flicking between hot and cold. it runs warm for 5 secs and then flicks onto cold for a while then flicks back to warm for a few secs. Also this morning the temperature control fell apart, so can i get a replacement switch ? (rotary)
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Submitted 374 days ago | by
Steve, london
A: When it is running cold check the thermal cut out on top of the heating can for continuity. If open circuit then it needs tto be replaced. If tcvo ok then again when cold check for power to the heating elements and if none then it is the power printed circuit board at fault. If by temp control you mean the knob it is part of the front cover assy. Any or all of these parts can be ordered online by clicking on the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-62-Triton-Bewitch Answered 371 days ago | Alastair
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Q: i have a triton
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Submitted 418 days ago | by
gramps, romford essex
Answered 417 days ago | Anonymous
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Q: when the hot wat
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Submitted 420 days ago | by
jim, belfast
A: If the water is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs Answered 419 days ago | The Doc
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Q: 1 : My shower will not turn off with the stop button, when you press stop all the heat lights go off and the water starts to run cold, but the water does not stop running, turning the power off to the shower stops the water?
2:Sometimes when using the shower the heater will automatically click off Hot and the cold light will come on, after a lot of fiddling with the temperature and pressing buttons it will go back onto hot?
Any ideas?
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Submitted 451 days ago | by
MLegdon
Answered 448 days ago | Alastair
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Q: hi dose this cover asembly come with the electronic switich panel at the back of the cover
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Submitted 453 days ago | by
calumcee
Answered 451 days ago | Alastair
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Q: problem says we need a prd and o ring ref 83301330
where do we repalce on shower what is it and do you stock it, what is the cost and availability
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Submitted 461 days ago | by
diane
Answered 459 days ago | The Doc
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Q: What can cause loss of pressure, you switch on the shower and all is ok then you hear a click and the pressure light comes on and the water goes cold, then it switches back and it works fine again, this can happen once, ten times while you are showering, there does not seem to be a pattern, we have even made sure nothing else is used whist we have a shower.
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Submitted 479 days ago | by
chris
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Also as it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO
The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose) Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced. Answered 479 days ago | Anonymous
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Q: 3 days ago some cold water was dripping from the inlet pipe and then went away [shower temperature seemed to drop]. Now the show will not turn on, main pull switch goes on then immediately off. Whats the problem?
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Submitted 484 days ago | by
mark
Answered 483 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Our circuit breaker tripped whilst the shower was in use (RCD trip, I think, as the shower breaker remained on) and after reset, the shower now runs at a much lower temperature.
I assume that one of the heater elements failed in the heater canister and this caused our breaker to trip.
Am I correct, or could it be something else?
Thanks.
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Submitted 495 days ago | by
DelM
Answered 495 days ago | Alastair
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Q: I have this week had a combi boiler installed and the plumber had to move my water supply for the shower
The water presure seams much higher throughout the bungalow
The shower works fine good pressure hot as always however we have had to get an inline tap on the mains supply as when the shower is switched off the water continues running thru the unit
The water is cold and supplied direct from mains and since the combi boiler was fitted mains water pressure has increased
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Submitted 507 days ago | by
drivinginstructor1
Answered 507 days ago | Alastair
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Q: There is no water flowing from the shower .Electricity and water are switched on, It started cutting off intermitingly.Can you help
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Submitted 508 days ago | by
beans1
Answered 507 days ago | Alastair
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Q: hi my shower gos from hot to cold and then from cold to hot and keeps on on this cycle , any idears whats coursing this many thanks , richard
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Submitted 537 days ago | by
newcs
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
Also if it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO
The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose) Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced. Answered 536 days ago | Anonymous
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Q: I have tested live power up to the board (7072052) and on to the solenoid, but no power from either element terminal at the board. The switches are making. Is it likely the board is faulty?
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Submitted 576 days ago | by
Uppy
A: Check that with shower on the piston on top of the stab valve is activating the little switch on the bottom of the circuit board, if it is then the pcb needs replacing. It can be ordered online by clicking on the link below but make sure that the number you order is the same as on the present board. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-7072052-Power-PCB- (Click-here-before-ordering) Answered 575 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Hi, I have a Triton Bewitch 10.5kw which has now died, I am moving home soon and just want to put up a replacement. Is there a newer model with the same set up, inlet etc - so that I don't have to make any more holes in my tiles? Cheers
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Submitted 620 days ago | by
squish
Answered 620 days ago | Alastair
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