Q: Hi there,
My Triton Biarritz II keeps running/dripping even after the power is switched off. The only thing that stops the flow of water is to turn off the main stopcock. Could you advise on what might be causing this?
(there have been lime-scale deposits blocking the head recently - if that's important)
Cheers
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Submitted 17 days ago | by
Ian, Brighton
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 17 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: is the part no 15 above a compleat unit as it looks like it on the pic but want to be sure b4 i purchese
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Submitted 31 days ago | by
danny, devon
A: This is part 15 and what it comes like,
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/electric-showers/TRITO-85000250-Triton-Outlet-Pipe-Assembly-C-w-Wires-and-PRD-85000250 Answered 31 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: The On/Off knob has stopped working (just turns full circle without engaging). I now have to turn it on and off with the pull cord. Is it possible to get a replacement? I'm guessing the ?cog? mechanism thingymabob at the back of the knob has worn. By the way, I am a complete amateur but am happy to have a go at replacing some bits. Would really appreciate any advice. Many thanks, Kim
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Submitted 80 days ago | by
Kim, Walsall
A: It could be the rear part of the knob that is broken or theswitching module. If it is the knob then this is part of the front coverassembly which is obsolete if it is the switching module then this can bereplaced. You will have to switch off the power remove the front coverand have a look inside Answered 80 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My shower will not work the power light on the shower itself will not come on plus the pull cord is stuck on off although the power light is on also it won t pull can you help.
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Submitted 97 days ago | by
Anonymous, SL4
A: I think that the first place to start is with the ceiling switch as this may be at fault. You will need a competent person to check this before looking at other possible causes. Answered 95 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: When we turn the shower on the light is on but no water emerges. What could be wrong?
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Submitted 123 days ago | by
n/a, Cambs
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you havea multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failedstate.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is notoperating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The videois intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checkingand testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are reallyuseful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fusesand letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of otherjobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 123 days ago | The doc |
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Q: Hi there, wondering if you could help me. My shower runs okay on minimum heat on hot water, i.e bloody cold, but as soon as I turn up the temperature control it trips out the power on heat setting around three to four. What would be causing this and which parts would I require to replace? Or is there a shower that has the same fitment to the wall for the position on the power cable in, screws, and water pipe?
Kind regards,
James
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Submitted 166 days ago | by
James, Clacton
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap. However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit (Tritons word not mine!) The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions. Here is the link. http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome) See Video at the foot of the page Answered 165 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: how much is a new one
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Submitted 213 days ago | by
bt roy, caterham
Answered 213 days ago | The doc
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Q: I am getting limescale lumps in the water coming through the shower. I am not getting this through any taps so I assume there is an issue with the shower that it causing this. I have to remove the cap off the shower head and clean it out after each shower as this results in the water jet holes getting blocked. The shower itself works fine.Can you please give some advice here.
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Submitted 321 days ago | by
Del, Bishop's Stortford
A: There is not really much you can do about this other than fitting a new heating tank or fitting a new shower. The lime scale will have hardened on to the elements and as it heats up they start to break off Answered 320 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: thanks for your help , i have a multimeter, witch part of the shower do i need to test . thanks again
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Submitted 377 days ago | by
groves, blackpool
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 374 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: my shower tripped the fuse and has now lost its preasure/power i used to put it on heat settins 2 and turn the tempreture to about 5-6 , but now its on heat seting 2 and have to turn it up to 10 and its still not that hot and water flow is very slowley , whats causing this and what part do i need to fix the problem thanks
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Submitted 382 days ago | by
groves, blackpool
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 382 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Using shower on cold water with the Actuator on 1 suddenly water stops. can not get it to go again
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Submitted 389 days ago | by
pj, surrey
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 388 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi. The shower cycles between hot and cold at seeming random times and intervals, there there appears to be no pattern. To my knowledge there has been no change in the supply water pressure, and all supply valves are fully open.
When the temperature dial is turned, the outlet flow changes accordingly.
The shower head is not blocked, nor is the hose compromised.
The TCO on top............appears to be ok, although it smells warm when the shower is running with the cover removed, all the wiring and connections seem healthy - and presumably if its cycling hot/cold then this would not be the problem anyway (From a previously answered question)
One of the connections on the bottom TCO situated on the outlet pipe is slightly blackened with signs of heating. I assume that this is the cause of the problem. Does that sound right?
When I looked to order this part, the link from the Biarritz II diagram doesn't take me to a description of the part where I can order from.
Please guide me to ordering the correct item.
Thanks for your help - this is a really useful website!
Griff
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Submitted 437 days ago | by
Griff, Pembrokeshire
Answered 437 days ago | The Doc
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Q: shower works fine but gives a loud buzzing almost the whole time it is on. Is it the solenoid?
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Submitted 535 days ago | by
linso, manchester
Answered 533 days ago | The Doc
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