Q: My shower is still working but water is coming out of the overflow at the bottom ...why would this be .??
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Submitted 68 days ago | by
caroline, Bradford
Answered 67 days ago | The Doc Answered 67 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Hello,
I have got this shower in the house but the water doesn't get hot until 9 or 10 settings and when it's hot, there is no pressure at all.
What could be the problem and how to get it sorted?
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Submitted 140 days ago | by
Anonymous, Unknown
A: It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 138 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Hi. I have a problem with the wire that comes from the second Heater to the item no. 11 outlet pipe. This wire when switching the second heater setting on the dial overheats to the point of melting the end connector. can you tell me why this might be?
Thanks,
Liam
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Submitted 151 days ago | by
keeby371, Dorset
A: It is just a poor connection on tothe TCO and the connecters over heat Answered 151 days ago | The Doc
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Q: IS THERE A WATER FILTER IN THE IVORY 2 UNIT THAT NEEDS TO BE CLEANED. I ANM NOT ABLE TO CONTROL THE WATER TEMPERATURE.
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Submitted 173 days ago | by
j, croydon
A: Sorry for the delay in replying. There may be a gauze filter in the inlet of the solenoid valve, however they are not always fitted.
The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allows power through to the elements
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Answered 167 days ago | The Doc
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Q: water keeps going from hot to cold then hot and cold again can ou tell me what the problem is do they have thermostats thanks
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Submitted 200 days ago | by
drizzer, liverpool
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Also as it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO
The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose) Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced. Answered 200 days ago | The Doc
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Q: The shower won't switch off and water continues to flow and can only be stopped by pulling fuse or isolating. It switched itself on one day when no one was using it and swithching to off makes no difference. seems to be heating the water ok.
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Submitted 203 days ago | by
Anonymous, N Ireland
A: This sounds like a micro switch sticking in the on position, they are mounted behind the switching assembly (part3) http://www.showerdoc.com/trito-parent-77-triton-ivory If you look closely you will probably see that one of them is overheating or it has melted and caused the bracket that it sits on to melt. Answered 203 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Recently our shower has run very hot. On full power it is scalding so we need to run it on half power to make it bearable. What could be at fault?
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Submitted 223 days ago | by
christodhunter, Southampton
A: Check that shower hose is not kinked or collapsed internally and the shower head is clear. Check incoming mains water stopcock and any isolation valve in the feed to the shower are eully open. Check with your supplier if there has been any reduction in water supply flow or pressure. Check that the gauze filter in the inlet to the solenoid valve is clear. If all above are ok then it is likely to be the stabiliser valve at fault and as this is obsolete and no longer available a new shower is required. Our recommended replacement is the Trito T80z and the appropriate wattage mode can be ordered online via this link. http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton/electric-showers Answered 223 days ago | Alastair A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
Answered 223 days ago | The Doc
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Q: water pours from outlet pipe instead of through the shower head, replaced shower head as i thoughf it might be scaled up but no change.shower ok when no shower head attatched
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Submitted 239 days ago | by
del, Unknown
Answered 238 days ago | Alastair
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Q: water just coming out of theover flow hose at the bottom not out of the shower head
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Submitted 389 days ago | by
mitch, peterborough
Answered 389 days ago | The Doc
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Q: PLEASE HELP NEED PART 83303160 CAN YOU TELL ME WHERE I CAN FIND ONE
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Submitted 424 days ago | by
CHRISSY, WEST LOTHIAN SCOTLAND
A: Unfortunately it is obsolete Answered 423 days ago | The doc
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Q: Went to have a shower this morning and noticed that the power light did not light up and also the water was not hot. I took the cover off the shower to see what it could be, and found that the wires going into the two top contacts on the micro-switches looked to have shorted out and the protective sleeve had melted around them. I have taken the micro-switches off and only one of them seem to click tidy when you push the black button/switch in and out. Is there any chance you might know what the cause of this could be and is it worth getting fixed??? Many Thanks
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Submitted 478 days ago | by
Keith, S. Wales
A: If you click on the link below it will take you to the parts list for the Ivory and you will see a lot of the parts are now obsolete and this may help you to decide whether to repair or replace. Details of our recommended replacement can be found at the bottom of this page. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-77-Triton-IvoryThe cause of the fault is almost certainly the spade connectors on the wires having gone high resistence causing overheating. New wires can be made by yourself or an electrician and replacement microswitches can be ordered online via the above link. Unfortunately the wire kit is no longer available. Answered 474 days ago | Alastair
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Q: This now just turns round without turning the shower on. I have removed the cover, and with the cover off, I can put the selector knob onto the thing which it turns and it works, but with the cover back on it is as if it no longer "reaches" far enough to engage the knob inside.
It's only a year or so old and nothing is cracked or broken. HOw can I repair it, either a proper fix or a bodge job?
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Submitted 482 days ago | by
slumlandlord, London
A: Yes it sounds like the knob is broken however As I recollect the knob and front cover come as one unit so that may also explain why it is not working properly. However this unit has a 2y ear guarantee so probably best to give Triton a ring. Answered 481 days ago | The Doc
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Q: befroe purchasing the solenoid valve by shutting off the stop tap too see if the water stops, if it does new valve needed -
"by shutting off the stop tap too"where is this?
Do you mean the mains stop tap ?
When It is turned off on the shower "off switch", it drips every 5 seconds.
Can the Solenoid valve be taken apart,cleaned, without leaking again?
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Submitted 496 days ago | by
Ticket #: 12277, TQ12 6HA
A: The solenoid can’t be cleaned it is a sealed unit. Yes you should shut off the mains stop cock because the shower should be on this supply. As to where the main valve is, is different in every house, however you could start by having a look under the kitchen sink. Answered 495 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Today water temp changed during shower - hot to cold & back to hot (not changing controls).
'high' setting is now too hot (even with temp control at lowest). Usually ok at this time of year.
'Low' setting temp is ok, but water flow is too low.
When turned 'off' cold water continues to flow.
Turn off main electrics & water stops flowing.
Unit is probably over 10 years old.
Is there a replacement part ?
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Submitted 507 days ago | by
Peter, Berkshire
A: I think you could have two faults first the temperature problem.
The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
And the issue with it not switching of If when you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid. When you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the water stops running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking in the on position. Answered 502 days ago | The Doc
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Q: In mid-shower, my Triton Ivory just cut off the water, and
will not work even if turned into Cold mode.
The power light is off, but the pull-switch on the wall is glowing.
The pressure window on the Triton shows red.
The taps on the bathroom basin have got lots of pressure.
We are in a high-iron water area which builds up on everything,
but this is the first shower problem in 8 years of living here.
What part should I be looking at and do you have it in stock?
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Submitted 527 days ago | by
John Brown, Towcester, Northants NN12 8N
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 525 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Con one still obtain the spring that is in the power seletor assembly ? ( The upper dial that turns the water and power on ) This fits about half way along the spindle from the dial and is not unlike a hair grip with a twist at the end.
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Submitted 531 days ago | by
Graham, LU6 3LU
A: Afraid the switching assembly is obsolete and no longer available so a new shower is required. Our recommended replacement is the Triton T80z which whilst not a direct replacement is designed for retrofit and should be fairly easy to fit. The appropriate wattage can be ordered online via the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton/electric-showers Answered 531 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Hi,
My shower seems quite noisy and also only remains hot for a short while before gradually going cool - it never goes to tap temperature.
The gradual shift to a cooler shower doesn't happen every time we use the shower so it is a bit of a lottery.
Could I resolve the problem with a replacement part or would I better served replacing the whole unit?
Regards
Bill
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Submitted 544 days ago | by
bungy999
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allows power through to the elements
.
Also as it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO
The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose) Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced. Answered 543 days ago | The Doc
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Q: I need a thermal cut out switch. It is NOT numbered on your diagram and it is NOT the one attached to the water heater unit . It is a small one held onto the plastic outlet pipe by two small self tap screws. An earth lead is attached to one of the screws. Its function is to interrupt the supply to one of the heater elements if the water outlet temperature gets too hot.
Can you supply this part?
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Submitted 598 days ago | by
Rob
Answered 598 days ago | Alastair
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Q: I have a Triton Ivory 4. Does it have a filter and if so how do I clean or change it?
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Submitted 610 days ago | by
dai
A: There is a gauze filter in the inlet pipe to the solenoid valve. It is sometimes possible to clean it but if seriously clogged a new solenoid valve is required. Answered 609 days ago | Alastair
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