Triton Ivory

A: Forget previous answer your PRD is on the outlet pipe.

 I think the pressure relief device has blown.

 

It’s a safety device on the bottom of theheating tank or outlet pipe

 

It is fairly easy to replace however there isusually something that causes it to blow,

often a kink in the hose or the showerhead isblocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83301330-PRD-(Pressure-Relief-Device)-and-'O'-ring-(Pair)?ss=prd&pg=2

http://www.showerdoc.com/trito-82800450-triton-pressure-relief-device-82800450

Video re replacing the outlet pipe PRD

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2B1Tg7XXKtE

 

A: 

I think the pressure relief device has blown.

 

It’s a safety device on the bottom of theheating tank.

 

It is fairly easy to replace however there isusually something that causes it to blow,

often a kink in the hose or the showerhead isblocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83301330-PRD-(Pressure-Relief-Device)-and-'O'-ring-(Pair)?ss=prd&pg=2

 

 

A: 

It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have amultimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A:  It is just a poor connection on tothe TCO and the connecters over heat

A: 

Sorry for the delay in replying.

There may be a gauze filter in the inlet of the solenoid valve, however they are not always fitted.

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to  open / close the safety device that allows power through to the elements

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

 

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally


Also as it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced.

 

 

A: 

This sounds like a micro switch sticking in the on position, they are mounted behind the switching assembly (part3) http://www.showerdoc.com/trito-parent-77-triton-ivory If you look closely you will probably see that one of them is overheating or it has melted and caused the bracket that it sits on to melt.

A: Check that shower hose is not kinked or collapsed internally and the shower head is clear.
Check incoming mains water stopcock and any isolation valve in the feed to the shower are eully open.
Check with your supplier if there has been any reduction in water supply flow or pressure.
Check that the gauze filter in the inlet to the solenoid valve is clear.
If all above are ok then it is likely to be the stabiliser valve at fault and as this is obsolete and no longer available a new shower is required.
Our recommended replacement is the Trito T80z and the appropriate wattage mode can be ordered online via this link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton/electric-showers

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

 

A: The pressure relief device has activated and must be replaced , can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83301330-Triton-Prd-(pressure-Relief-Device)-And-O-Ring-(pair)-83301330

A: 

I think the pressure relief device has blown.

 

It’s a safety device on the outlet pipe.

 

It is fairly easy to replace however there is usually something that causes it to blow,

often a kink in the hose or the showerhead is blocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-82800450-Triton-Pressure-Relief-Device-82800450

A: Unfortunately it is obsolete

A: If you click on the link below it will take you to the parts list for the Ivory and you will see a lot of the parts are now obsolete and this may help you to decide whether to repair or replace. Details of our recommended replacement can be found at the bottom of this page.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-77-Triton-Ivory

The cause of the fault is almost certainly the spade connectors on the wires having gone high resistence causing overheating. New wires can be made by yourself or an electrician and replacement microswitches can be ordered online via the above link.
Unfortunately the wire kit is no longer available.

A: 

Yes it sounds like the knob is broken however As I recollect the knob and front cover come as one unit so that may also explain why it is not working properly.

 

However this unit has a 2y ear guarantee so probably best to give Triton a ring.

A: 

The solenoid can’t be cleaned it is a sealed unit.

 

Yes you should shut off the mains stop cock because the shower should be on this supply.

 

As to where the main valve is, is different in every house, however you could start by having a look under the kitchen sink.

 

A: 

I think you could have two faults first the temperature problem.

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

 

And the issue with it not switching of

 

If when you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid.

 

When you switch off the shower at the main isolator  and the water stops  running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking in the on position.

 

 

 

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

A: Afraid the switching assembly is obsolete and no longer available so a new shower is required. Our recommended replacement is the Triton T80z which whilst not a direct replacement is designed for retrofit and should be fairly easy to fit. The appropriate wattage can be ordered online via the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/showers/triton/electric-showers

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allows power through to the elements

.

Also as it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced.

 

 

A: This comes as part of the outlet pipe assy and the one for the Ivory is now obsolete, however an alternative can be ordered online by clicking on the link below and transferring the actual tco from the new one onto yours.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/electric-showers/TRITO-83303980-Outlet-pipe-(-No-Wires-)

A: There is a gauze filter in the inlet pipe to the solenoid valve. It is sometimes possible to clean it but if seriously clogged a new solenoid valve is required.