Triton Ivory II

A: 

If when you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid.

When you switch off the shower at the main isolator  and the water stops  running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking on.

 

A: 

Yes unless you are sure that everything is OK, or you havehad someone in to check your wiring and fuses you are best to stick with ashower that is the same rating as the existing.

A: 

It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have amultimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: 

It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have amultimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud ornot)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: 

Ifit is cutting out then it may be your solenoid valve, you can check itif you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms,across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve inthe failed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is notoperating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The videois intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checkingand testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are reallyuseful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fusesand letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of otherjobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

If it is tripping your circuitbreaker then it may be a faulty element in the heatingtank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with amulti meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have amultimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

A: Would say this is definately the RCBO which needs to be replaced

A: 

You need a new solenoid valve

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

A: With a meteer check that there is a minimum of 230 volts at the connector block in the unit , if not then it is likely that the isolation switch has gone high resistence and needs to be replaced.

A: You need to take the cover off with the shower running and locate where the leak is coming from , once you have identified what is leaking a replacement can be ordered online via the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-78-Triton-Ivory-II

A: Good afternoon,

Thank you for your email.

From the description above it sounds like your stabiliser valve is leaking. There is a diaphragm located within this part. Due to its particular function in the shower the stabiliser valve is subjected to a high degree of wear and tear throughout the use of the shower. Thus, this diaphragm can become badly worn and will allow water to leak out of the top of this assembly. As such, to cure the problem of dripping within your shower, you will need to replace the stabiliser valve assembly. Please follow the link below to order this part from our website...

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-P07810800-Triton-Stabiliser-Valve-Assembly-(7-5-8-5-9-5kw)-P07810800

I hope that this helps you out.

Regards,

The Shower Doctor.

A: Good morning,

Thank you for your email.

The best replacement for the Triton Ivory 2 is the Triton T80Z electric shower which was designed by Triton as a retrofit unit. As such, it has several service entry points for the water and the electrics. This should make replacing the Triton Ivory 2 fairly straightforward. Please follow the link below to view this shower on our website. Here, you will also find full product information.

http://www.shower-warehouse.com/showers/electric-showers/triton/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z Electric-Shower-8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

I hope that this helps you out.

Regards,

The Shower Doctor.

A: Good morning,

Thank you for your email.

It may well be that your solenoid has failed into the closed position and is, as such, not allowing the water to enter the shower. This part needs to be energised constantly throughout the showering experience to allow the water to flow into the unit and then out of the shower head. However, to be sure beyond reasonable doubt that it is the solenoid at fault then this part needs to be tested with a digital multimeter. When tested with a multimeter,  the solenoid should display a resistance reading across its two terminals of at least 3.5k ohms. If the reading obtained is any less than this then the solenoid will need to be replaced.

Nb. Remember to test the solenoid in its failed state; i.e. when the shower is not working.

Should you require a new solenoid, please follow the link below to order this part from our website...

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83300450-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-Assembly-83300450

I hope that this helps you out.

Regards,

The Shower Doctor.

A: Good morning,

Thank you for your email.

It sounds like your stabiliser valve is leaking. This leak may be a result of the diaphragm inside this part becoming badly worn due to the stress it is put under throughout the operation of the shower. When the stabiliser valve is raising up to activate the microswitches attached to the switching carriage, the water is thus allowed to escape. Please follow the link below to order a replacement stabilser valve for your shower on our website...

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-P07810800-Triton-Stabiliser-Valve-Assembly-(7-5-8-5-9-5kw)-P07810800

I hope that this helps you out.

Regards,

Michael.
The Shower Doctor.

A: 

Yes definitely worth fixing Triton obviously had a problem with these not a huge problem however we do sell a few.

http://www.showerdoc.com/trito-85000250-triton-outlet-pipe-assembly-c-w-wires-and-prd-85000250

 

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

A: 

 I think the pressure relief device has blown.

 

It’s a safety device on the bottom of the heating tank or outlet pipe

 

It is fairly easy to replace however there is usually something that causes it to blow,

often a kink in the hose or the showerhead is blocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83301330-PRD-(Pressure-Relief-Device)-and-'O'-ring-(Pair)?ss=prd&pg=2

http://www.showerdoc.com/trito-82800450-triton-pressure-relief-device-82800450

 

 

 

A: Good morning,

Thank you for your email.

In relation to the problems that your shower is having, there are a few checks that need to be carried out to try and establish the fault. The things to check first are...

1. That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2. Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to the shower to cool it properly. This means that the shower will overheat and the thermal cut out is activated, cutting the power to the elements on top of the heating can until the shower cools down again. Then the whole process starts again.

Also, make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose is not kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) and check the inside of the hose. Although it can look OK on  the outside it could have collapsed internally.

The other possibility is a faulty flow / stabiliser valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower. To check this part (and it is only really a rough check) remove the shower head and allow the hose to hang into the bath / shower tray. Then, forgetting about the actual temperature of the water, turn the temperature control dial to fully hot; the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble. Then turn it to fully cold and, here, it should be coming out at full flow. If there is not much of a difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

(Remember to carry out this check after you have checked the supply to the shower).

This shower is also fitted with a secondary thermal cut out on the outlet pipe (this is the black disc on the outlet pipe with the two wires going to it). Examine the connections to this part closely; if you see any discolouring / signs of overheating, then the secondary TCO needs to be replaced.

Please follow the link below to view the available spares list for the Triton Ivory 2. Here you will find listed all the parts mentioned above...

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-78-Triton-Ivory-II

I hope that this helps you out.

Regards,

Michael.
The Shower Doctor.

A: 

You need a new solenoid valve this is the part that turns the water on and off

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83300450-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-Assembly-83300450

A: 

Obviously difficult to ID without being able to see the shower however I suspect that it may be the stabilizer valve, you really need to listen to the unit and try to establish where the noise is coming from.

A: 

It probably just the water heating up  (the same way that it does in a kettle) it is mostly just to do with the shower getting older however it doesn’t necessarily mean that there is anything wrong with the shower.

 

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: The washers you require can be ordered online by clickinng on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/plumbing-consumables/MARL-FED-MX-Hose-Washers--1-2-inch-(8-Pk)-FED

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower  open / close the safety device that allows power through to the elements and exactly the same problem if you don’t have enough pressure.

You could give your local water authority a ring an ask them what your water pressure should be, they will probably say that the supply a minimum of 1bar (the minimum required to operate a shower)however press them and ask what it is likely to be first thing in the morning (when everybody is showering)

 

They could have the pressure turned down because they are working on the main, or because there is a burst pipe some where and they have turned the pressure down to try to save water, or the pressure maybe low just because there is a burst pipe somewhere, that hasn’t been discovered yet!

A: 

This all sounds pressure related.

 

The shower needs a minimum of 1bar to operate properly

 

I would contact Anglian Water and ask them to carry out a pressure check first thing in the morning when everyone is showering.

 

  

A: Check there is a minimum of 230volts at the connector block in the shower if not then the isolation switch has gone high resistance and needs replaced.
If power ok the it is likely to be the solenoid coil, if you click on the link below it will take you to a video link showing how to test and change the coil and allow online ordering.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/HYDR-27600-Hydra-Universal-Solenoid-Coil-(no-Valve)-27600

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878

If an element has popped then it has probably tripped the circuit breaker in the fusebox so check that.

If it an element fault a new heating can of the correct wattage can be ordered online via this link.

 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-78-Triton-Ivory-II

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

You could give your local water authority a ring an ask them what your water pressure should be, they will probably say that the supply a minimum of 1bar (the minimum required to operate a shower)however press them and ask what it is likely to be first thing in the morning (when everybody is showering)

 

They could have the pressure turned down because they are working on the main, or because there is a burst pipe some where and they have turned the pressure down to try to save water, or the pressure maybe low just because there is a burst pipe somewhere, that hasn’t been discovered yet!

 

 

 

A: If your shower is tripping the RCD then it is usually down to the heating elements being faulty and needing replaced.

Make sure you choose the correct kw rating heating can for your shower.

You can find all the spares and different kw ratings of heating cans via this link provided - http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-78-Triton-Ivory-II

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

A: the pressure relief device has activated and needs replaced it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below, but before fitting make sure the shower hose is not kinked or collapsed internally as this can cause the prd to trip.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-82800450-Pressure-Relief-Device

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

Also if it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced.

A: 

You have either a faulty pull cord switch or a faulty element in the shower.

Here is how to check the element

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

A: The replecment shower head for the Triton Ivory II is part number TRITO-88500035 and you can find this part by entering this no in to the search bar on the top right of the homepage.

A: If you have no warm water atb all then it could be the thermal cut out or the pressure switch as suggested. If you click on the first link below it will take you to a video clip showing how to test the tco and allow online ordering if required.
If the tco is ok then the stabiliser valve which incorporates the pressure switch is required it can be ordered online via the second link

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-22010070-Thermal-cut-out

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-78-Triton-Ivory-II

A: You need to replace the carriage assy and the camshaft they can be ordered online by clicking on the 2 links below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-7052197-Switch-carriage

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-82800480-Camshaft-assembly

A: The solenoid valve has failed and must be replaced ( the complete valve, not just the coil ) it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83300450-Solenoid-valve-assembly

A: This is the replacement shower bracket for the Ivory II:

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/trito-83313470-shower-holder-(white)-(22mm)