Q: hi , my small swich switch on off is going full round , it needs replacement, when we on the shower it gives too hot water or too cold water . please do help.
thanxs
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Submitted 17 days ago | by
meenu, ware,Herts
A: Forgettingabout the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold atfully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from thehose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do nothave this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve. Answered 17 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: when i switch the shower on only cold water comes out, the orange light is on but cannot hear the heater
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Submitted 25 days ago | by
telford shropshire, ian
A: If the shower is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs Ifthere is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank(there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with amulti meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.
Ifyou don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide onhow to use them for checking and testing the various parts of yourshower.
Apartfrom helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checkingyou have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting youknow much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 25 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: The shower runs cold when on. Did have a guy look at it who tested the current. Power is getting to the shower, all good he said so must be the Heater Can Assembly that needs replacing. Does this sound feasible ?
I moved in to the house and the shower was like this but previous tenant said (it was working before installed by a plumber) didn't last that long.
Can you advise what part I should get?
Also the multimeters do 'appliance testers' use this?
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Submitted 56 days ago | by
trotsky, Inverness
A: If the shower isabsolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the twoterminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at bothconnections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heatsit cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs Ifthere is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there aretwo, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter youshould have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to theelements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to theelements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply toappliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left inbatteries (so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester I am not sure exactly what the question about the multimeter is, however it is an essential bit of kit for testing any appliance.
Answered 55 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Power light on but no water, top dial not responding in any setting
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Submitted 67 days ago | by
Jean , Moray Scotland
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you havea multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failedstate.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is notoperating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The videois intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checkingand testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are reallyuseful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fusesand letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of otherjobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 67 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: is the triton ivory 111 shower a power showe
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Submitted 80 days ago | by
connor, london
A: No it is a normal electric shower. Answered 80 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: i have a triton 111 shower and the and the top switc that switches the shower on has broken.i need to replace it but i cant see it in spare parts as a separate item.are they available or do you have to buy the whole front cover
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Submitted 91 days ago | by
stu, leeds
A: You need to buy the whole cover as these are not separately sold items.
Answered 91 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: i have to turn the shower all way round to number 8 to get any hot water out what could be the cause before it would burn you at that number what part would i need
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Submitted 114 days ago | by
jon, birmingham
A: It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 112 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Is the can a simple job or is there a sequence of removal
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Submitted 122 days ago | by
kevtherev, Wolves
A: The replacement isfairly straight forward.
Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantlemost of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part outand the new part in. This sounds more difficult than itactually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc.come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos asyou go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding. Answered 119 days ago | The doc |
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Q: When I switch the shower on the water is at an acceptable temperature (6 or 7) but it quickly becomes very hot and then recedes, then very hot, then recedes.
Any advice greatly appreciated.
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Submitted 167 days ago | by
Rimsky, Selby
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
Answered 166 days ago | The Doc |
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Q:
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Submitted 228 days ago | by
almo, Fife
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 228 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: when switched off shower started up on its own for a few seconds then knocked off. Shower then would not get hot at all so replaced Thermal Cut out - now when switched on smell of burning still doing same hoping thermal cut out does not break again as we seem to have not cured the real problem can you help?????
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Submitted 269 days ago | by
caz, west Yorkshire
A: I think you have a switch that is sticking in the on position and this is keeping the power on to one of the elements even when you switch the shower off. Answered 265 days ago | The Doc |
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Q:
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Submitted 274 days ago | by
cakes, Liverpool
Answered 273 days ago | The Doc
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Q: shower trips power when you turn on to hot, however it runs on cold. it also trips out when you swich it back to off when you run it on cold.had it about 18months and has been fine on any heat setting, any ideas thanks.
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Submitted 279 days ago | by
the blues, wigan
A: This could be a few things. First I would check that your pull cord switch is OK. Then make sure that your MCB is large enough for the shower. 8.5 kw needs at least a 35amp MCB and 9.5 needs a 40amp MCB. If these are all OK then check the elements It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester
Answered 278 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: the Triton ivory III we have cuts off mid shower but the power light remains on and the ceiling cord is still on, It's almost like there is some sort of safety cut off?? We have had the shower about 2 years and It has only just started doing it!
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Submitted 282 days ago | by
Smit, Bingley, West Yorks
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 280 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Is there a direct replacement for a Triton Ivory 3
MANY THANKS
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Submitted 284 days ago | by
ruggie, upminster essex
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Q: there is no change in temperature when you switch from heat setting 1 to heat setting 2
any ideas why this is.
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Submitted 305 days ago | by
gus, brighton
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 305 days ago | The doc |
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Q: My shower has worked fine for 4 years. we usually use it on number 5 and the heat and pressure is perfect but the other day it was cold on number 5 so turned it up to 7 and it warmed up but lost lots of pressure, it's been like that for a week now. at the end of the shower i turn it back down to 5 and i get about 30 seconds on hot water with good pressure before it goes cold again.
what part do i need to fix it please.
Thanks
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Submitted 371 days ago | by
Oggie, Inverness
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 370 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: i have power and water but the water is runnung cold not hot?
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Submitted 410 days ago | by
pebbles, falkirk
A: If it is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs If there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 410 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Water is not heating up at all. Electrics all appear to be ok. It worked fine for two members of the family but would not heat for the third time this morning
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Submitted 411 days ago | by
Malc, Didcot
A: If it is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs If there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 410 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: After 5 minutes approx the water turns off we have power to the unit when power is turned off after approx few hours you can turnon again and water is fine for 5 mins again.
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Submitted 477 days ago | by
ch, gillingham
Answered 474 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Hi there
The power light on the shower unit is not lighting up and we have to turn the shower to the highest level to get any heat in the water then we turn it down to halfway to regulate the temperature
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Submitted 477 days ago | by
Glenn, Belfast
A: This sounds like a water pressure problem. Check with your supplier whether there is a reduction of pressure or flow in the supply for any reason. Check that water mains stopcock and any isolation valve in the supply to the shower are fully open. Check that the inlet gauze filter in the shower is clear. If all the above are ok then it is likely to be the stabiliser and solenoid valve at fault, replacement can be ordered online by clicking on the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/sirrus-by-gummers/GUM-PARENT-46-Sirrus-Ts-1600-Thermostatic-Shower-Valve Answered 474 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: hi is the neon on the front panal surposed to stay on when the shower is turned off with the power switch,but not at the pull cord,
many thanks
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Submitted 495 days ago | by
cazza, birmingham
Answered 494 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Hi whenever shower is on, water is flushing out of the PRD regardless of whether hose is on or not. No blockage in the outlet pipe. Can i assume that the prd is not just an open pipe? Is there supposed to be some kind of spring assembly internally?
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Submitted 498 days ago | by
tonrey30, leighton buzzard
Answered 497 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Intermittent stoppages of water flow resulting in no flow at all, unscrewed hosing into shower & got a brief burst but nothing after that
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Submitted 542 days ago | by
Neilneuve
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 542 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: How do I descale the inside of the triton III shower. I have descaled the head but the shower is too hot on on setting 2 and it is too cold on setting 1.
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Submitted 560 days ago | by
Mr. B
A: There is really no advisable way to descale the insides of electric showers. From your description it sounds more like a water flow problem. Check the hose is not kinked or collapsed internally. Check the mains stopcock and any isolation valve in the supply to the shower are fully open. Check the filter in the inlet to the solenoid valve is clear. If all above are ok then it is likely to be the stabiliser valve at fault and assuming you have an Ivory III it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-P12120800-Stabiliser-valve-and-solenid-assembly Answered 560 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: when the shower is on say mark 5 it goes total cold so you turn it up but to get heat you have to turn it all the way up to max then you cannot control it at all.
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Submitted 568 days ago | by
wonkey
A: Could be a couple of things. The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allows the power through to the elements.
The other possibility
It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 564 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi there, the unit power light shows as red and on when the cord is pulled down to start the shower as normal. However when the top knob is turned to select the force of the water, All electrical appliances in the bedrooms go off. I then need to go to the mainswitch and push the button back on for the electricity to run normal again upstairs. I know the mainswitch cuts the connection when it thinks something is not safe. So clearly theres something wrong with the shower. What part of the shower will i need to buy to sort this problem?
Regards,
Akbar
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Submitted 584 days ago | by
Akbar
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 584 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi There I have the shower at he full capacity nice powerful spray but I have it on power setting 2 for hot and 10 for hot and it is still look warm so which part is it take note I am an Electrical and Electronic Engineer of 36 years experience and it would appear to me it could be 2 things the thermal cut out working incorrectly ie not letting it get to a certain temperature and cutting of too early or the Can assembly anyway what do you think should I just buy a new one???
Cheers Jef Urquhart
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Submitted 591 days ago | by
Jef
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it is probably one of the microswitches in the power selector.
Either the heating can or the power selector can be ordered online via the link below
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-79-Triton-Ivory-III
Answered 590 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: hi,
I have a problem with my ivory 2 water heater,i close all the knob but the water still dripping on the shower head.any idea how to fix this problem?
thanks
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Submitted 594 days ago | by
joe
Answered 593 days ago | Alastair
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Q: My shower is not turning off when it is turned to the off position. The only means of stopping the water flow currently is to turn off the switch supplying the power which means os soon as the the power is returned to the unit the shower comes on again. Do I need a new unit or is it a simple part replacement.
Thanks
Graham
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Submitted 628 days ago | by
Speedy
Answered 626 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Hi there, the unit power light shows as red and on when the cord is pulled down to start the shower as normal. However when the top knob is turned to select the force of the water nothing happens. Any idea what ths could be?
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Submitted 681 days ago | by
unwashedkris
A: Check there is a minimum of 230volts at the connector block, if ok then it is probably the solenoid coil that has failed. If you clickon thelink below it will take you to a video clip showing how tom test and replace the coil and allow online ordering. Answered 680 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: on the power selector the knob just turns around unless you push in very hard and then you can select right bottom or left but it is getting very dificult @ times, is it a common problem with a black round ring
if that is the problem can it be rectified and how much to change
Regards Kevin
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Submitted 726 days ago | by
Kevin
Answered 725 days ago | Alastair
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