Triton T70si

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety devicewill turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowingthe correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control tofully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribblethen turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have afaulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

Also if it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going toit and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank andthe hose)
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs ofoverheating then the TCO needs replaced.

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety devicewill turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowingthe correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control tofully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribblethen turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have afaulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

Also if it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going toit and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank andthe hose)
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs ofoverheating then the TCO needs replaced.

The water should come through immediately,if it is not two things come to mind

One the solenoid valve may besticking two you may have had a sticking switch and this has boiled off some ofthe water in the heating tank therefore it takes a few seconds to refill seethis note below. After fitting a new TCO

 Regarding the cold water I think you mayhave a faulty Thermal Cut Out


A faultyTCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top ofthe heating tank)

Thereforea good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have powerat only one.

(Thefunction of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to theelements until the water cools, this can take up to 15mins)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

After fitting a new TCO

When fitting a new TCO listen to the shower, after it hascompleted its first on/off cycle, if when it is switched off you hear itcontinuing to heat (Noise like a kettle starting to boil) this will mean thatthere is a switch or a relay that is stuck in the on position, this is keepingan element energised and this is probably what caused the original TCO to fail.

If this is the case replace the faulty switch or relay andmake sure that you switch the shower off at the isolating switch when theshower is not in use because this may cause the new TCO to fail.

Sorry for the delay in replying.

Yes I think all you need to do is replace the PRD

Here is the link to the PRD there is a vido at the foot of the page.

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-82800450-Triton-Pressure-Relief-Device-82800450

I presume you mean by not working that you mean you have no water?

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

This video clip should help

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc&feature=player_embedded#at=11

I would be very unusual for it to leak from here

Could it be leaking from the top of the stabilizer valve and running down the back making it look like that joint is leaking?

If it is leaking from that joint then you will have to take it apart to establish what is causing the leak, A faulty ‘O’ ring perhaps a fault with the flow valve or the spigot on the heater tank is damaged or perhaps the spigot is just not entering the stab valve squarely  

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allows power through to the elements

The other thing to check is.

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe  (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)

Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced.   

The 83306990  is now obsolete, this is not a direct change over however if you are competent you should be able to adapt the 160  Do not attempt this unless you know what you are doing