Q: Our shower has suddenly stopped working. When you press the on/off switch nothing happens. No lights come on, no water etc.
On a few occasions recently the on/off switch has required two 'presses' to get started. Any ideas of the problems and how to fix?
|
|
|
Submitted 6 days ago | by
fanara, Surrey
A: First check at the terminal block that you are actually getting power to the shower. If you are getting power then it may be your solenoid valve that is faulty, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 5 days ago | The Doc
|
|
|
Q: is this hot or cold feed?
|
|
|
Submitted 20 days ago | by
col, cannock
A: It should usually be fed by the mains water feed. Answered 19 days ago | Barrie
|
|
|
Q: how can i repair dripping shower
|
|
|
Submitted 26 days ago | by
Anonymous, Unknown
Answered 26 days ago | Barrie
|
|
|
Q: Can I order a replacement shower head and hose?
|
|
|
Submitted 34 days ago | by
Anonymous, Leamington Spa
A: This link shows you what is available.
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/triton Answered 28 days ago | Barrie
|
|
|
Q: I recently purchased the replacement balls for the PDR but when I opened up the unit could not find anything like a PRD attached to the outlet pipe assembly. Am I missing something? or looking in the wrong place?
|
|
|
Submitted 50 days ago | by
rosemary, S. Yorks
A: I dont know which "balls" you have bought, but the PRD for this shower, shown below, comes with the balls inside. The PRD is found behind the outlet pipe in the base of the can. http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83301330-Triton-Prd-(pressure-Relief-Device)-And-O-Ring-(pair)-83301330 Answered 49 days ago | Barrie
|
|
|
Q: My shower has developed a leak from the small pipe behind the outlet...would anyone know what caused this and how do I fix it..
|
|
|
Submitted 51 days ago | by
emmanuel, 40, gordon pitsea essex
Answered 49 days ago | Barrie
|
|
|
Q: can you help please i have lost my spray key to clean my shower have you got any thank you
|
|
|
Submitted 54 days ago | by
Anonymous, essex
Answered 54 days ago | The Doc
|
|
|
Q: i need to re-new the white plastic accessory that sits on the chrome shower rail it has a hook on the one end to hang items on and on the other end it has a loop with a hole in it to fit the flexi pipe through and sits on the shower rail it is a 9.5kw
|
|
|
Submitted 59 days ago | by
Anonymous, United Kingdom
Answered 59 days ago | Barrie
|
|
Q: A few days ago the shower wouldn't turn off at the switch but turns off at the isolating switch. However today the water wont get hot, only lukewarm. No low pressure lights. I don't know if the PRD operated as my son was in the shower at the time.
I'm assuming that this is 2 separate faults. I've also noticed a burnt out black wire at the top. Will it be cheaper to replace the shower or get new parts? Many Thanks
|
|
|
Submitted 61 days ago | by
christine, brighton
A: It does sound like two faults, it may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you havea multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failedstate.) (When it has stopped working!)
If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is notoperating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc
The videois intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.
If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checkingand testing the various parts of your shower.
Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are reallyuseful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fusesand letting you know much power you have left in batteries
(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of otherjobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds
http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester
And also,
It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms.
If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch.
Answered 61 days ago | The Doc
|
|
|
Q: Could you advise on possible fault, Low pressure light on and water luke warm when on high setting. Low pressure light off when cold setting selected.
|
|
|
Submitted 74 days ago | by
Anonymous, Perth
A: Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve.
If this proves to be the case then unfortunately this part is now obsolete. Answered 73 days ago | Barrie
|
|
|
Q: Am I able to purchase a Spray Key for above as I have lost mine and need to undo shower head to clean it.
|
|
|
Submitted 77 days ago | by
sheila, Boston Lincs.
A: This is the item that you can order.
http://www.showerdoc.com/trito-83308620-triton-key-5000-83308620 Answered 77 days ago | Barrie
|
|
|
Q: jade triton shower turned on full power on cold and now water coming out of overflow pipe how do I release the pressure value
|
|
|
Submitted 118 days ago | by
Anonymous, Bristol
Answered 118 days ago | The doc
|
|
|
Q: Had our TJ for 10 years now. Today when switched on it makes all the usual noises but theres no water so switch straight off. Has cut out once or twice last week but have nothing now.
|
|
|
Submitted 169 days ago | by
Denise1964, Newcastle upon Tyne
Answered 168 days ago | Alastair
|
|
Q: We have a Triton Jade. After turning off it would still drip and drip, but if the shower head was removed and shaken it seemed to stop dripping, suggesting it was just residual water in the head.
However, the bathroom has just been refurbished (by a fitter, not me), which involved removing the shower and reinstalling it. Now, when the shower is turned off, it drips all the time and never stops.
What do you think please?
|
|
|
Submitted 211 days ago | by
beano, Hampshire
Answered 210 days ago | The Doc
|
|
|
Q: Unable to control the water temperature when the Power Selector is on the High setting. The water is either very hot or just cold when using the Temperature Control. Its ok when using the Economy setting.This is also the case when the shower head is removed. Any advice would be appreciated please. Thanks.
|
|
|
Submitted 228 days ago | by
Breakfastbar, Barrow in Furness
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
Answered 228 days ago | The Doc
|
|
|
Q: Triton Jade gave off electrical burning smell - what part may have been responsible and is it worth repairing or is it better to replace whole shower?
|
|
|
Submitted 259 days ago | by
janel, Enfield
A: Probably just one of the wires burning out which would mean replacing the loom. We can sell the complete wiring loom however that’s fairly expensive especially when all you need is a short section of wire and a few connectors. If you take the old bits of wire or a photo to Maplins http://www.maplin.co.uk/?C=GKW&U=TA&T=BRAND&gclid=COL2l9DGlY8CFRHREAodSTl2Fw They will give you the bits you require and the tool for crimping the connectors on to the wires and all at less than half the price of a loom However first you will have to switch off the power remove the cover and have a look inside Answered 258 days ago | The Doc
|
|
|
Q: Our shower won't stay on unless you continue to hold down the ON button. The water comes out and power light comes on - all seems to work but then as soon as you take your finger off the ON button it stops working. Is it a faulty switch?? We can only shower one handed at the moment!
|
|
|
Submitted 281 days ago | by
Ashers, Portsmouth
Answered 280 days ago | The Doc
|
|
|
Q: Our Jade shower suddenly won't work properly. When pressing the ON button the water starts and power light comes on - however it won't stay on unless we continue to hold the button down. As soon as we take our finger off the ON button it stops.
|
|
|
Submitted 281 days ago | by
Anonymous, Unknown
Answered 280 days ago | The doc
|
|
|
Q: Looking to replace a Triton Jade with another Triton shower. Which models are an easy swap ie dimensions, fixing positions, etc
|
|
|
Submitted 327 days ago | by
Ldflash, Linlithgow
Answered 327 days ago | The Doc
|
|
|
Q: i have fitted a new prd and the water is not as hot now i have turned the hot dial to 9. i have a new head and hose now
|
|
|
Submitted 345 days ago | by
jimbo, glasgow
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 343 days ago | The Doc
|
|
Q: A few weeks ago, shower ceased working whilst in use - low pressure light came on & water flow ceased. Adjusting dials, switching on & off initially had little effect apart from an occasional squirt of water, but a clunking noise was noticeable during the on/off switching.
Don't know if it is relevant, but there was no low pressure light when Power Selector dial set to cold, low pressure light did not come on.
Took cover off to inspect, and apart from checking connections & some severe glaring, no action taken. Replaced cover & shower then proceeded to work normally for several weeks!!!! Now seems to have conked permanently.
From these symptoms, is it possible to determine which part has expired & needs replacing?
|
|
|
Submitted 352 days ago | by
Bisley, Pudsey
Answered 351 days ago | Alastair
|
|
Q: My triton Jade gave off a loud 'pop' and a white flash in use (result...one very scared daughter!)
It has tripped its circuit breaker, advice please.
|
|
|
Submitted 367 days ago | by
John, Couinty Durham
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank and your daughter was in the shower just when it went bang! (there are two elements, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 367 days ago | The Doc
|
|
|
Q: When I press the stop button the water stops but it sounds as though the water heater is still heating the water, if I switch of the main switch the noise from the shower stops.
|
|
|
Submitted 371 days ago | by
Sinkey, Aberdeen
A: I think you may have a micro switch that is stuck in the on position keeping one of the elements energised all the time. Operate the shower by using the pull cord switch until you are able to fix the problem, but remember using the pull cord is a temporary solution. Answered 369 days ago | The doc
|
|
|
Q: PRD is leaking? what is the cure?
|
|
|
Submitted 391 days ago | by
kenny G, leeds west yorks
Answered 390 days ago | The Doc
|
|
Q: SHOWER HEAD HOLDER BROKEN
CAN YOU GET SPARES
|
|
|
Submitted 392 days ago | by
david, Sunderland
A: When looking for a Triton slider bracket / handset holder you just need to know what the diameter of your rail is that it slides up and down. Just measure accross the front of the rail and it should be 18MM / 19MM / 22MM or 25MM. Once you have worked out the diameter you can order any of the following sizes and colours from the link to our Triton range below. Triton Sliders - http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/slider-brackets/tritonIf you dont see the one you require please contact us by phone or the contact us form via this link provided- http://www.showerdoc.com/contact-us Answered 389 days ago | LC
|
|
Q: Hi,
I wonder if you can give some advice my shower is a Jade and is connected to a switch inside the bathroom. I can pull the switch which is fine but when i press the start button it blows all the electric in the house. Can this be fixed or will i need a new shower.
Thanks
|
|
|
Submitted 415 days ago | by
tilly, norwich
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 413 days ago | The Doc
|
|
|
Q: There is no hot water at all
|
|
|
Submitted 432 days ago | by
juls, Hereford
A: I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs Answered 432 days ago | The Doc
|
|
|
Q: The low pressure light has come on and only getting cold water from the shower. same on both high and low setting.
|
|
|
Submitted 444 days ago | by
Colin, Edinburgh
A: If the water is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs If there is some heat then It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 444 days ago | The Doc
|
|
|
Q: Water will NOT stop running when turned off. Is this likely to be the solenoid valve assembly?
|
|
|
Submitted 486 days ago | by
rog, littlehampton
A: If when you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid. When you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the water stops running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking on. Answered 486 days ago | The Doc
|
|
|
Q: How do i remove the front cover? does it just pull off? it doesnt seem to want to move? trying to check the TCO as there is no hot water coming thru.
|
|
|
Submitted 518 days ago | by
Andy, Birmingham
A: Two screws at the top and one at the bottom just behind the front cover, they are recessed so not easy to see. Answered 518 days ago | The Doc
|
|
|
Q: i have a triton
|
|
|
Submitted 522 days ago | by
cal, oxted , surrey
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
Also if it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO
The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose) Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced. Answered 522 days ago | The Doc
|
|
Q: Recently the water pipe to the shower froze. Now there is water leaking from the bottom of the unit around the outlet pipe and in other places along the bottom. The shower is still working at the moment.
What part do you think I need to replace?
|
|
|
Submitted 530 days ago | by
JT, UK
Answered 528 days ago | The Doc
|
|
|
Q: My shower has developed a leak from the small pipe behind the outlet...would anyone know what caused this and how do I fix it..
|
|
|
Submitted 567 days ago | by
dinglebob
Answered 564 days ago | The Doc
|
|
|
Q: do these showers have a seal all the way around the front cover on the inside of the seam as my one seem only to have a seal around the very top portion
|
|
|
Submitted 592 days ago | by
simo
A: The seal is only supposed to go half way around the top of the cover and back casing. The reason for this is so no water leaks in in to the electrics as the top of the unit is most venerable to water contact.. Answered 591 days ago | SD A: Your shower is OK The seal only covers the top portion and down the sides a little way. Answered 591 days ago | Anonymous
|
|
|
Q: The low pressure light came on half way through a shower and the water flow stopped. The shower will not flow again. Any ideas and is it a DIY repair ?
|
|
|
Submitted 594 days ago | by
diverstu
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester The replacement is fairly straight forward.
Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantle most of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part out and the new part in. This sounds more difficult than it actually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc. come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos as you go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding. Answered 591 days ago | The Doc
|
|
Q: need to know what part i need
the overflow behind the outlet for shower when turned on is leaking put finger on bottom of it and it works normal is it possible you can tell me what part i need thanks
|
|
|
Submitted 594 days ago | by
alice
Answered 591 days ago | Anonymous
|
|
|
Q: My jade shower is 11 years old and just stoped working with no water coming out of it? is there a in let filter.any help welcome
|
|
|
Submitted 594 days ago | by
Big Roy
Answered 593 days ago | Alastair
|
|
Q: I have a Jade shower - installed before I moved in here - it has been fine, but now when turned on it emits water from the small platic tube behind the outlet pipe - plus some blue 'bits'
Is this repairable or is it a new heat exchanger?
|
|
|
Submitted 620 days ago | by
maddogcol
Answered 618 days ago | Alastair
|
|
|
Q: Hi I have an original Jade shower unit which has started to go hot then cold, I would ideally like to repair the shower but am unsure what needs replacing thanks K.Kenney
|
|
|
Submitted 642 days ago | by
Kenneykev
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
Also if it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO
The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose) Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced. Answered 641 days ago | The Doc
|
|
Q: MY SHOWER'S FAULT STARTED WITH CONTINUOUS WATER LEAK THROUGH THE OUTLET PIPE PLUS LIMESCALE COMING OUT AS WELL. THEN 2 DAYS LATER, ON SWITCHING SHOWER ON, IT TRIPPED THE WHOLE HOUSE ELECTRICS BUT DID NOT TRIP THE "ELECTRIC SHOWER TRIP SWITCH" !!
MY QUESTION IS BECAUSE I SUSPECT THE PRESSURE SOLENOID VALVE (NO.15 ON YR DIAGRAM), WHERE EXCACTLY DOES THAT ITEM SIT IN THE SHOWER UNIT ?????
|
|
|
Submitted 646 days ago | by
ANWAR
A: It does sound like the pressure relief device has been activated, This part pushes in to the bottom of the heater and is secured in by the outlet pipe. The part number as long as you have just the Triton Jade is 83301330.
There could be another fault on fitting this part as the PRD usually activates due to oneof the following below. A) Hose collapsed inside or was kinked when showering. B) The shower head is blocked and needs cleaned or de-scaled. C) There was a busrt of pressure to the shower EG water being switched off by water board for repairs. D) One of the elements blowing in the shower heater can assembly, if this does happen then the fuse board will trip , blow the PRD and when a new PRD is fitted you will only get half heat come out of the shower.
Answered 646 days ago | SD
|
|
|
Q: the water is coming out of the overpressure relief valve when the thermostatic control is turned down to 2, what is the cause?
|
|
|
Submitted 733 days ago | by
duggie
Answered 732 days ago | The Doc
|
|