Triton Jade

A: 

I think the pressure relief device has blown.

 

It’s a safety device on the bottom of theheating tank.

 

It is fairly easy to replace however there isusually something that causes it to blow,

often a kink in the hose or the showerhead isblocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83301330-PRD-(Pressure-Relief-Device)-and-'O'-ring-(Pair)?ss=prd&pg=2

A: Tgis is most likely to be a faulty solenoid coil , if you click on the link below it will take you to a video clip showing how totest and if required change it and allow online ordering.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/HYDR-27600-Solenoid-Coil--Universal-(no-Valve)-27600

A: 

It sounds like the solenoid valve is not shutting the waterof properly therefore it will need replaced.

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83304130-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-Assembly-83304130

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

 

A: 

Probably just one of the wires burning out which would mean replacing the loom.

 

We can sell the complete wiring loom however that’s fairly expensive especially when all you need is a short section of wire and a few connectors.

 

 

If you take the old bits of wire or a photo to Maplins http://www.maplin.co.uk/?C=GKW&U=TA&T=BRAND&gclid=COL2l9DGlY8CFRHREAodSTl2Fw  They will give you the bits you require and the tool for crimping the connectors on to the wires and all at less than half the price of a loom

 

However first you will have to switch off the power remove the cover and have a look inside

A: 

I think you have a faulty on/off switch.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83305530-Triton-Start-stop-Switch-Assembly-83305530

A: 

I think you have a faulty on/off switch.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83305530-Triton-Start-stop-Switch-Assembly-83305530

A: 

Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap.

 

However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit  (Tritons word not mine!)

 

The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions.

 

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome)

 

See Video at the foot of the page

 

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: Sounds like the solenoid valve has eailed , replacement can be orderedonline by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83304130-Triton-Solenoid-Valve-Assembly-83304130

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank and your daughter was in the shower just when it went bang! (there are two elements, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

A: 

 I think you may have a micro switch that is stuck in the on position keeping one of the elements energised all the time.

Operate the shower by using the pull cord switch until you are able to fix the problem, but remember using the pull cord is a temporary solution.

 

A: 

I think the pressure relief device has blown.

 

It’s a safety device on the bottom of the heating tank.

 

It is fairly easy to replace however there is usually something that causes it to blow,

often a kink in the hose or the showerhead is blocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83301330-PRD-(Pressure-Relief-Device)-and-'O'-ring-(Pair)?ss=prd&pg=2

 

A: When looking for a Triton slider bracket / handset holder you just need to know what the diameter of your rail is that it slides up and down. Just measure accross the front of the rail and it should be 18MM / 19MM / 22MM or 25MM.

Once you have worked out the diameter you can order any of the following sizes and colours from the link to our Triton range below.
 
Triton Sliders - http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/slider-brackets/triton

If you dont see the one you require please contact us by phone or the contact us form via this link provided- http://www.showerdoc.com/contact-us

A: 

 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: 

 I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

 

A: 

If the water is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out

A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)

Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.

(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements)

See Video.

http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs

 

If there is some heat then It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

 

A: 

If when you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid.

 

When you switch off the shower at the main isolator  and the water stops  running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking on.

 

 

 

A: 

Two screws at the top and one at the bottom just behind the front cover, they are recessed so not easy to see.

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

Also if it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced.

 

 

 

 

 

A: 

First don’t use it until you are sure it is safe!

 

You will need to switch of the power, remove the cover and have a look to see if you can see where the leak is coming from.

http://showerdoc.com/shower-spares/trito-parent-80-triton-jade

A: 

I think the pressure relief device has blown.

It’s a safety device on the bottom of the heating tank.

It is fairly easy to replace however there is usually something that causes it to blow,

often a kink in the hose or the showerhead is blocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD.

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83301330-PRD-(Pressure-Relief-Device)-and-'O'-ring-(Pair)?ss=prd&pg=2

A: The seal is only supposed to go half way around the top of the cover and back casing. The reason for this is so no water leaks in in to the electrics as the top of the unit is most venerable to water contact..

A: 

Your shower is OK

The seal only covers the top portion and down the sides a little way.

A: 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!)

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

The replacement is fairly straight forward.

Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantle most of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part out and the new part in.

This sounds more difficult than it actually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc. come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos as you go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding.

A: 

I think the pressure relief device has blown.

It’s a safety device on the bottom of the heating tank.

It is fairly easy to replace however there is usually something that causes it to blow,

often a kink in the hose or the showerhead is blocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD.

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83301330-PRD-(Pressure-Relief-Device)-and-'O'-ring-(Pair)?ss=prd&pg=2

 

A: It is probably the solenoid coil that has failed , if you click on the link below it will take you to a video clip showing how to test and if needed change the coil and allow online ordering.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/HYDR-27600-Universal-Solenoid-Coil-(No-Valve)

A: The pressure relief device has actvated and needs replaceed, it can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83301330-PRD-(Pressure-Relief-Device)-and-'O'-ring-(Pair)

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control to fully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribble then turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.

If there is not much difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.

Also if it is a Triton have a look at the outlet TCO

The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose)
Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced.

A: It does sound like the pressure relief device has been activated, This part pushes in to the bottom of the heater and is secured in by the outlet pipe. The part number as long as you have just the Triton Jade is 83301330.

There could be another fault on fitting this part as the PRD usually activates due to oneof the following below.
A) Hose collapsed inside or was kinked when showering.
B) The shower head is blocked and needs cleaned or de-scaled.
C) There was a busrt of pressure to the shower EG water being switched off by water board for repairs.
D) One of the elements blowing in the shower heater can assembly, if this does happen then the fuse board will trip , blow the PRD and when a new PRD is fitted you will only get half heat come out of the shower.

A: 

I think the pressure relief device has blown.

It’s a safety device on the bottom of the heating tank.

It is fairly easy to replace however there is usually something that causes it to blow,

often a kink in the hose or the showerhead is blocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD.

 

http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-83301330-PRD-(Pressure-Relief-Device)-and-'O'-ring-(Pair)?ss=prd&pg=2