Q: Water continues to flow through the shower whether it is turned on or off. We have taken to turning it off on the mains supply.
What do i need to replace
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Submitted 3 days ago | by
simon, Ireland
A: If when you switch off the shower at the mainisolator and the shower keeps running then you have afaulty solenoid.
When you switch off the shower at themain isolator and the waterstops running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is stickingon. Answered 3 days ago | Barrie
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Q: when i was showering i could smell wires smouldering. on checking the mains input cable connector smouldered.please let me know if i can buythis and the cost.is it possible to buy at any electrical distributor.any reason for this fault.
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Submitted 14 days ago | by
fred, peston pr1 8pt house number 44
A: See other reply, and a loose wire is the usual cause of this. Answered 13 days ago | Barrie
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Q: how much is it to buy, can i buy it any electrical distributor
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Submitted 14 days ago | by
fred, pr1 8pt preston house number 44
A: Yes you should be able to. Answered 13 days ago | Barrie
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Q: The 'Low Pressure' light is on, but the water flow is fine. The water temperature is only warm at highest setting.
I have recently had mains water supply off while working on other fittings, could this have caused a problem?
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Submitted 25 days ago | by
SB, Derbyshire
A:
The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open/close the safety device that allows the power through to the elements. Answered 24 days ago | Barrie
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Q: Is there a replacement shower head for this model also the key to enable cleaning .
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Submitted 33 days ago | by
Anonymous, Poole
A: This is suitable and comes with a key.
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/triton/shower-heads/TRITO-88500035-Triton-Head-7000-Wht-(universal)-88500035 Answered 32 days ago | Barrie
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Q: hi i have noticed after taking the front panel off that the wires to the Triton Power Selector Including Microswitches S12121003 is melted and burnt away, my question is does this part Triton Power Selector Including Microswitches S12121003 come with the wires that connect it all?
Thanks
Nick
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Submitted 35 days ago | by
Ncik , Stevenage
A: This item has all the wiring attached. Answered 35 days ago | Barrie
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Q: I have a Triton Jade II which has worked well for about 5 years but has recently started to cut out immediately on setting 2 and the low pressure light comes on. There is good flow on the cold setting and reasonable flow on setting 1. Can you suggest what might be causing this? Have had the water pressure checked in the house and it's good. Thanks.
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Submitted 47 days ago | by
H, Bristol
A: I am not sure what you mean by cut out? If you have no water then. It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you havea multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failedstate.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is notoperating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The videois intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checkingand testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are reallyuseful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fusesand letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of otherjobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester If the power is cutting off then It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester If the shower continues to work but you lose heat then The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open / close the safety device that allowspower through to the elements Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Answered 46 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Following on from my original question and the action taken, I have found that the inlet valves are fully open.
The shower head is clean and clear, the hose is also is also in good condition.
I tested the flow rate with the shower head removed to check the flow/stabiliser valve and with the temperature at it's highest the water is reduced to slightly more than a trickle and with the flow at it's coldest it comes through at full flow.
Do you have any other suggestions?
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Submitted 61 days ago | by
Lyburn, Perthshire
A: It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 61 days ago | The Doc
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Q: My shower runs at desired temperature for approx 1 minute then runs cold for about the same time, then it goes hot for similar time, then cold again etc..
I changed the TCO after reading advice from here but that has not solved the problem.
Any suggestions?
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Submitted 61 days ago | by
Lyburn, Perthshire
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety devicewill turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again Make sure that the shower headis clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind thehand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hosealthough it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowingthe correct amount of water into the shower.
A ruff check is to remove the shower head turn temperature control tofully hot the water coming out of the hose should be a bit more than a dribblethen turn to fully cold and it should be coming out at full flow.
If there is not much difference between the two then you could have afaulty flow valve.
Carry out this check after you check the inlet valves.
Answered 61 days ago | The Doc
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Q: part of my shower seems to have a leak but im unsure if it can be replaced. in the diagram, its the bronze part to the right of the '6'. iv enclosed pictures to make it clearer. can the part be replaced?
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Submitted 77 days ago | by
jon, milton keynes
A: Sounds like it is leaking from the top of the stabilizer assemblyand running down onto the solenoid. It should really just be a case of replacing the assembly. http://www.showerdoc.com/TRITO-P12120800-Triton-Stabiliser-Valve-And-Solenoid-Assembly-P12120800 The replacement isfairly straight forward.
Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantlemost of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part outand the new part in. This sounds more difficult than itactually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc.come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos asyou go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding. Answered 76 days ago | The Doc
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Q: For what reason do we have to ring Triton before
removing a Jade 2 from the wall
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Submitted 113 days ago | by
Anonymous, Warrinton
A: We are having a problem at the moment with our ticketing systemit is running words together, we have people working on it!! Becauseif they decide to send an engineer he will want to see it in its fitted position Answered 112 days ago | The doc
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Q: Hi. The fuse for our shower tripped this morning and now we can't get the water hot enough to shower unless it's on max and then the flow is very poor. Previously it was fine on about 5-6. Has one of our elements gone and is it easy to fix?
Cheers, Nicky.
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Submitted 122 days ago | by
Nicky, Glasgow
A: Yes itsounds like a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a readingof around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 119 days ago | The Doc
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Q:
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Submitted 151 days ago | by
nutmeg, plymouth
A: It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 151 days ago | The Doc
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Q: My Triton Jade 2 shower has stopped supplying hot/warm water despite putting the dial to hot. It only generates cold water regardless of the temperature that is set. Can you please advise?
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Submitted 201 days ago | by
mushtaq, London
A: If the shower is absolutely cold then I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs If there is some heat it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 201 days ago | Anonymous
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Q: shower just stopped, no lights on shower ,indicator light on ceiling box on. "help"
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Submitted 247 days ago | by
stuarty, belfast
Answered 244 days ago | Alastair
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Q: my shower runs for a bit then trips the electrics is this the solonoid or thermostat with in the shower unit?
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Submitted 265 days ago | by
moike, wirral
A: It could be the solenoid or the elements. Try both of these checks below but wait until after the electrics trip. It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 265 days ago | The Doc
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Q: the temp control has no effect and the water is scorching hot when on the min setting on high. the low temp control is working okay
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Submitted 319 days ago | by
johno, dover
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Answered 319 days ago | The Doc
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Q: The Power light is on but when I press in the button nothing happens - no water or anything
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Submitted 337 days ago | by
Ruckie, UK
Answered 335 days ago | Alastair
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Q: HI,MY JADE 11 LOW PRESSURE LIGHT IS ON ALL THE TIME,WATER PRESSURE GOOD,COLD WATER ALL THE TIME. THANKS BAZZ
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Submitted 352 days ago | by
BAZZ, NORTH DEVON
Answered 351 days ago | Alastair
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Q: I have a Triton Jade shower. The power light and low pressure light are on. No water comes out at all. Seems to turn off and on ok, everything lights up, but nothing happens. Would this be the solonoid.
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Submitted 376 days ago | by
shadywade, northamtpon
A: Yes almost certainly see below for how to check. It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 376 days ago | The Doc
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Q: water only getting hot when on level 9 on temp dial, could it be microswitch in power select?
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Submitted 385 days ago | by
stevo, hartlepool
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 384 days ago | The Doc
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Q: How do I change the water solenoid?
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Submitted 415 days ago | by
sue, LN5
A: The replacement is fairly straight forward.
Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantle most of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part out and the new part in. You may need a new Olive (Compression ring)for the brass fitting that goes on to the solenoid valve This sounds more difficult than it actually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc. come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos as you go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding. Answered 413 days ago | The doc
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Q: we bought it under 2 years ago, the problem is that when you switch it on we were only getting the shower working for about 5 mins but nothing at all now
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Submitted 429 days ago | by
jimmy, kirkcaldy fife
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 427 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Customers rang me today with his shower not turning off fully. With the head laying in the bath and the shower switched off with the isolator there was a 3" flow of water. He has shut it off with the isolator and turns it back on to shower. Can you diagnose from this description and advise me on what part to purchase. I suspect it could be the solenoid valve but don't normally repair showers so would like to make sure. He also says that the low pressure light comes on occasionally, if that helps but sounds like another problem to me.
Many thanks
Cottsy
Ian Cottingham Electrical
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Submitted 435 days ago | by
Cottsy, Dereham, Norfolk
Answered 435 days ago | Alastair
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Q: My Triton Jade II has water leaking from the bottom of the shower unit
it is leaking from number 8 in ur picture in this link
( http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-81-Triton-Jade-II )
is it repairable ??
thanks
dave
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Submitted 436 days ago | by
dave, merseyside
Answered 435 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Can I replace Thermostat
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Submitted 438 days ago | by
Doug, Newtown Northern Ireland
A: This would depend on your diy skills. If you do attempt to replace the tco make sure you have at first switched the power to the shower off. It would be advisable to take a picture of your tco set up prior to the removal. Answered 438 days ago | Bar S
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Q: where can I purchase a silver shower riser rail and soap dish?
The pressure light and on light have never come on since it was installed - although this does not affect the shower, do you know why the lights do not come on, would this be because the fuse has never worked?
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Submitted 494 days ago | by
Lilah , London
A: If you click on thr link below it will take you to our list of Triton rail kits and allow you to order the one of your choice online. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-accessories/rail-kits/tritonRegarding the lights I would guess that the LED`s have not been placed in their clips with the result they are not shining through the lenses. If you remove the cover and look behind the lenses you will see the clips. Answered 494 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Triton Jade 11 water stopped part way through a shower, it now only runs for a couple of minutes before low pressure warning light activates and shower cuts out. After a short time the shower must reset itself and will again work for a couple of minutes
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Submitted 497 days ago | by
Big G, Falkirk
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 496 days ago | The Doc
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Q: my shower is about 5 years old and has started to trip power when run for over 5 mins. could heater can cause this.
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Submitted 541 days ago | by
nick
A: I think this is more likely`to be the breaker itself. Check the rating, if youn shower is 8.5 or 9.5 kilowatt then rating should be 40amps and if 10.5 it should be 45amps. If below these then it has become oversensitive. You could also check the isolation switch for deteriation. Answered 540 days ago | Alastair
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Q: This noise occurs when water is being supplied to head. Which part would cause this and will shower cease to function because of this?
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Submitted 616 days ago | by
Lionel
Answered 614 days ago | Anonymous
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Q: Our shower was working fine until yesterday half way through a shower when the flow rate dropped and the temperature decreased. Even turning the temperature right up doesn't really increase things any. However when turning the temperature right down, the flow rate increases again.
Any idea what could be wrong?
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Submitted 684 days ago | by
Cyberax
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 684 days ago | The Doc
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Q: My Triton Jade II has water leaking from the bottom of the shower unit. I know it is something that can probably be replaced or fixed, but the shower is at least 5 years old so i have figured its probably better just to get a new shower. However i want to do this as cheaply as possible. Ideally i would like to get the exact same model, but im told these are no longer made so i will have to get a different shower. I'm just wondering if a) you could advise where to buy the same model b) what model i could replace it with, with minimal amount of work (i.e plumbing and electrical re wiring etc)
Many thanks for any advice you can offer!
Natalie Moore
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Submitted 692 days ago | by
natsmoore
A: Hi Natalie Your existing shower could probably be fixed 5 years is not that old. Unfortunately there is nothing that is a direct swap. However....... Triton has recently brought out the T80Z this shower has been designed round being a retrofit unit (Tritons word not mine!) The pipe work can be brought in from almost any position and there is a reasonable amount of space for cable entry from most positions. Here is the link. http://www.showerdoc.com/new-showers/triton/electric-showers/ZTRITO-SP8008ZUFIT-Triton-T80Z---8-5kW-(White-Chrome) See Video at the foot of the page Answered 692 days ago | The Doc
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Q: My Jade II shower has worked fine. However, in the last 3 weeks the hot water is going to cold and then comming back to hot. The Low Pressure light is not coming on. It is ok for 3 minutes or so thern goes cold for 20 secs and go back to hot. Is there a fault?
Thanks
Paul
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Submitted 731 days ago | by
Paul
A: I think you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) Alastair Answered 725 days ago | Alastair
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