Triton Marbella

A: 

Here is the link to the Triton micro switch it is 240v 21amp this will replace any of the micro switch other than the three pin switches

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/electric-showers/trito-22003230-triton-microswitch-(2-pin)-22003230

If you have one with a lower amperage it will be the switch that controls the  solenoid valve

A: http://www.showerdoc.com/ZTRITO-SP8008ZFF-Triton-T80Z-Fast-Fit-8-5kW-Electric-Shower---White-Chrome

This is a good replacement.

A: Good morning,

Thank you for your email.

Your pressure relief device has blown out and needs to be replaced. The pressure relief device is normally caused to blow out by a build-up of back pressure in the unit. Back pressure itself can be caused by one or more of the following: the shower head not being clean and clear; the hose has been kinked during showering; or the hose is damaged / collapsed internally.

It is important to ensure that all of the above check out okay because, if not, the PRD may well blow soon again after being fitted.

Please follow the link below to order a replacement PRD for your shower...

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-82800450-Triton-Pressure-Relief-Device-82800450

I hope that this helps you out.

Regards,

The Shower Doctor.

A: 

You may have a faulty pull cord switch or a faulty solenoid valve.

 

It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it has stopped working!)

 

If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc

The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them  with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds

http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester

 

A: That part is now obsolete the recommended replacement is below.

http://showerdoc.com/trito-88500035-triton-head-7000-wht-(universal)-88500035

A: 

It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms.

If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch.

 

If you don’t have a multimeter  we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.

 

Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries

(so you know if they are dud or not)  and lots of other jobs, in short they are well  worth the £10.

http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878

Also check the outlet thermal cut out on the outlet pipe for continuity and any signs of overheating.

The required part(s) can be ordered online via the link below.

A: 

The things to check first are.

1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.

2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.

If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again

Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally

 

A: If it does not trip out immediately the shower is switched on then it is much more likely to be either the isolation switch or the circuit breaker at fault. Check the internals of the isolation switch for visible signs of overheating or other damage.
For the Marbella the circuit breaker should be 40amps and if any less then it may have become oversensitive and needs replaced.

A: 

Hi

Unfortunately it just comes as a complete assembly.

Here is the link.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/electric-showers/TRITO-82600550-Stabiliser-valve-assembly-(7-5-8-5-9-5kw)

A: Check that there is a minimum of 230volts at the connector block and if so it is most likely to be the solenoid coil, if you click on the link below it will take you to a video clip showing how to test and change the coil and allow online ordering.

http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/HYDR-27600-Universal-Solenoid-Coil-(No-Valve)

A: 

 

 

You don’t mention which shower you have

 

However

 

If when you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid.

 

When you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the water stops running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking on.