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Q: First it tripped out,when turned back on it swiched from hot setting to cold and will not stay on hot setting
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Submitted 16 days ago | by
Teresa, Plymouth
A: It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply toappliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left inbatteries (so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 13 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: It started with shutting off and on showing low pressure light on. now it has stopped working completley. Please help
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Submitted 26 days ago | by
jas, coventry
A: Itmay be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter,you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in thefailed state.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The video is intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apartfrom helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checkingyou have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and lettingyou know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 26 days ago | Barrie |
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Q: Hello - i have a triton opal 9.5kw - inherited when I have moved into new home so unsure how old it is but the owner previous had mentioned to just give it a bang on the box when the water turns cold and it resolves itself. So the temperature is fine for first minute or so and then turns freezing cold and we have had to give a little bang on the front of the box to get the water back to running hot again. After 3 weeks the banging on the box doesnt seem to work and the pipe at the bottom of the box seems to be leaking. In time I wanted to replace the bathroom and buy new shower etc but if this can be resolved by just buying a part or you have any suggestions that would be great. Thankyou
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Submitted 54 days ago | by
mothershopper, Newcastle upon Tyne
A: The first things to check are: 1 That the main valve coming into your house is fullyopen. 2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower isfully open. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enoughwater getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore nopower will get to the elements and the unit will show lowpressure. Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hotto fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble comingfrom the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you donot have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve Finally when you turn thewater on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator ontop of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of thePCB make sure they are properly aligned. If all these are OK then youprobably have a fault with your PCB. The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCBhowever they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the lowpressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB. Answered 54 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi there,
I have an 8 year old Triton Opal Shower which recently stopped mid-shower and I have not been able to get it to work again. When this has happened previously it has been due to the switch contact on start / stop button becoming stuck and removing the control PCB and releasing the contact normally solves the problem. But not this time. I have checked the main shower isolation switch and power into the shower unit using a multimeter (both fine). However none of the lights come on the front of the shower when the isolation switch is on. The shower did briefly come back to life momentarily while I was checking electrical continuity with the multimeter, but I have been unable to replicate this - suspect loose contact, or problem with one of the PCBs or the ribbon from power to control PCB. I want avoid re-tiling so fixing this shower is preferable to replacing it. Would be greatful for any advice.
Many thanks
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Submitted 55 days ago | by
Fitz, Bristol
A: First check thesolenoid valve. It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you havea multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failedstate.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is notoperating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The videois intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checkingand testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are reallyuseful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fusesand letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of otherjobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester If the solenoid is OK then go through the following list. The first things to check are: 1 That the main valve coming into your house is fullyopen. 2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower isfully open. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enoughwater getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore nopower will get to the elements and the unit will show lowpressure. Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hotto fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble comingfrom the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you donot have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve Finally when you turn thewater on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator ontop of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of thePCB make sure they are properly aligned. If all these are OK then youprobably have a fault with your PCB. The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCBhowever they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the lowpressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB. Answered 54 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi,
I have a Triton Opal Mk1. A few months ago it had the problem of running ok for a few minutes then switching to low pressure & running cold, to remedy this i read on a forum to slip some cardboard between the actuator & the micro-switch on the bottom of the pcb. This fixed the problem.
However i was in the shower a few days ago when it tripped the fuse at the board and completely stopped running. i went to the board & fixed this & returned to the shower only to find that now it only has hot water when the dial is on 10 (unfortunately at the expense of the water pressure). anything lower than 8 is luke warm/cold.
Any idea's what the problem may be??
Cheers
Steve
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Submitted 116 days ago | by
stem80, newcastle
A: Notsure about the cardboard under the actuator! However....... It maybe a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kwshowers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading ofaround 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elementsand no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements thenit's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have amultimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them forchecking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix yourshower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances,for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud ornot) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 116 days ago | The doc |
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Q: the low pressure indication light comes on when i switch on the shower but no water comes out, what could be the cause ?
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Submitted 133 days ago | by
shelly, liverpool
A: If the solenoid is OK then carry out the checks below. The first things to check are: 1 That the main valve coming into your house is fullyopen. 2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower isfully open. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enoughwater getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore nopower will get to the elements and the unit will show lowpressure. Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hotto fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble comingfrom the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you donot have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve Finally when you turn thewater on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator ontop of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of thePCB make sure they are properly aligned. If all these are OK then youprobably have a fault with your PCB. The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCBhowever they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the lowpressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB. Answered 132 days ago | The Doc A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you havea multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the twoterminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failedstate.) (When it has stopped working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is notoperating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc The videois intended as a guide and does not cover every shower. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checkingand testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are reallyuseful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fusesand letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of otherjobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 132 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My Triton Opal (Mk1) recently developed the problem where the low pressure light would come on.
The shower starts off ok with hot water, then after approx 20-30 seconds you would hear a click, the low pressure light comes on and its then cold water! (that woke me up!!). That lasts for a short time, the low pressure light goes out and hot water comes out again. This cycle keeps occuring, until about 10 minutes then it works normally (sometimes)
Please help. Many thanks.
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Submitted 137 days ago | by
Nick, Norwich
A: The first things to check are: 1 That the main valve coming into your house is fullyopen. 2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower isfully open. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enoughwater getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore nopower will get to the elements and the unit will show lowpressure. Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hotto fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble comingfrom the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you donot have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve Finally when you turn thewater on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator ontop of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of thePCB make sure they are properly aligned. If all these are OK then youprobably have a fault with your PCB. The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCBhowever they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the lowpressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB. Answered 137 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Daughters Triton Opal Shower had cold water constantly coming out even after isolating the electricity, turning off stop cock was only way to stop flow.
Have checked solenoid and getting reading of 3.6 Ohms, is this still the cause of the problem.
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Submitted 144 days ago | by
Dad, Unknown
Answered 140 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Hi there,
My Opal keeps stopping and starting. Sometimes it will start OK, sometimes it won't. If it starts the water will shut off after a couple of minutes. Whenever it stops or doesn't work the indications are the same; the low pressure and the cold water lights comes on. It does come back on; the time interval can vary but the water quickly gets hot, goes cold and then returns to the correct temperature, but will shortly shut off again.
I have tried different mains water pressures.
I would have diagnosed a lazy solenoid valve but I have identified at least two connections on the pcb which appeared to be dry joints. I have resoldered the joints. Each time the shower has subsequently worked fine but within a week it starts to play up again.
Have you heard of joint problems like this before? I can't think of any reason why joints would be drying out. Could it be coincidental?
Regards.
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Submitted 144 days ago | by
Paul Vernon, Bracknell
Answered 140 days ago | Alastair
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Q: HI,
I have Triton Opal which is functioning fine, but with the dial set to its hotest level it is just warm and I mean only just warm. Do you have any advice. I have read the other advice and was thinking of replacing the Can Assembly.
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Submitted 157 days ago | by
monkey0282, Unknown
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably the power pcb.If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878
Also check the outlet thermal cut out on the outlet pipe for continuity.
Any part(s) required can be ordered online via this link.
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-88-Triton-Opal Answered 155 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: my shower keeps changing from hot to cold approx every 20 seconds and when on cold the low pressure light comes on ?
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Submitted 161 days ago | by
sidtic, wigan
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
If this doesn’t resolve the problem then get back to us Answered 160 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: We've had the showere for many years. Recently it began to leak from the PRD tub and I've replaced the PRD. However, I've now seen that there's a leak from within the shower box. The leak seems to be coming from the valve assembly. The shower now doesn't work - displaying the "low pressure" light whenever I try to use it.
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Submitted 172 days ago | by
Paul, London
A: Sorry for the delay in replying. Below are the checks for the low pressure light. The first things to check are: 1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open. 2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore no power will get to the elements and the unit will show low pressure. Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve Finally when you turn the water on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator on top of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of the PCB make sure they are properly aligned. If all these are OK then you probably have a fault with your PCB. The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCB however they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the low pressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB. The Leak ...... This may be coming from the pressure switch. However if you have both these faults it may be time to think about a new shower. Answered 167 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: The low pressure light flicks on (with a buzzing) and off but it gradually gets better over about 10 minutes.
I've had the front off to change the filter but cant figure out how to get into the inlet pipe! Nothing comes off when I unscrew it?
How do I get into it to change the filter?
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Submitted 180 days ago | by
Tim, London
Answered 179 days ago | Alastair
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Q: the shower was leaking and when i took it apart i noticed that when fired up there is a quick jet of water from the top of the stabilizer valve. would you agree that the valve needs replacing and if so how do i go about it?
PS: the PRD is also leaking so i'll be replacing that too
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Submitted 181 days ago | by
harris, uk
A: Yes the stab valve will need replaced. The replacement is fairly straight forward.
Turn of the water and power you then have to dismantle most of the inside of the shower to get enough space to slip the old part out and the new part in. This sounds more difficult than it actually is, however you do have to be methodical noting where screws/nuts etc. come from and what goes where and it is always a good idea to take photos as you go because you can refer to them when you are rebuilding. Answered 181 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: The Stop button on my shower has come out and I have to switch the water off at the isolation switch. Can I buy another Stop button and would I be able to fit it>
Thanks for your help.
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Submitted 191 days ago | by
Lynn, Maidstone, Kent
Answered 189 days ago | The Doc
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Q: Hello, I have a Triton Opal 10.5kW which is about 7 years old. Whilst using the shower, the water stopped being discharged from the shower head and now only discharges from the short length of outlet pipe at the bottom of the unit. When this happened a small ball (about size of a small pea) was discharged from the outlet pipe.
Does this mean i need a new PRD? Or it something else? If it is a PRD, would would have caused this?
I recently put in a new solenoid valve if that makes a difference, although the unit worked fine after solenoid was swapped - until this latest problem.. thanks Allen
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Submitted 202 days ago | by
allen, london
Answered 202 days ago | The doc
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Q: the dial on the shower, i only get warm water, when the dial is on number 10.
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Submitted 202 days ago | by
woodentops, leeds
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Also check the outlet TCO The outlet Thermal Cut Out this is a black disk with two wires going to it and it is mounted on the out let pipe (The bit between the heating tank and the hose) Examine the connections closely if you see any discoloration / signs of overheating then the TCO needs replaced. Answered 202 days ago | The Doc |
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Q:
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Submitted 207 days ago | by
Ting, Salisbury
A: There is usually something that causes it to blow, often a kink in the hose or the showerhead is blocked, so check this before fitting the new PRD. Answered 207 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: there are two heat settings but it nolonger works on the heat setting high. it is low heat when both high and low heat settings are used. has one of the elements gone and if so can i replace one or does the whole heating element need replacing. also how do i know what power the shower is.
thanks
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Submitted 240 days ago | by
patscool, paignton.devon
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably the power printed circuit board.If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower.Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878
The wattage of your shower is stamped on top of the heating can
Part(s) required can be ordered online by clicking on the link below.
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-88-Triton-Opal Answered 239 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: While being used there was a burning smell and have looked inside the casing. The negative connectors to the main heating element have got so hot that the plastic has melted completely off them.
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Submitted 244 days ago | by
Bill, Duns
Answered 242 days ago | Alastair
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Q: shower restarts occassionally after pressing the stop button. I think its a faulty or worn stop button. Otherwise the shower is fine. Does'nt do it when its isolated at the main power switch.
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Submitted 246 days ago | by
Big D, leicester
Answered 243 days ago | Alastair
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Q: we have a triton opel been in for about 5 yrs, it starts goes normal for about 20sec then goes cold and stays cold but then after a while it then goes hot ? we have tiled all the bathroom and as you know the water comes in bottom right so if this unit cant be repaired can you suggest a DIRECT replacement that will fit without me having to re-tile please. thank you Alan.
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Submitted 250 days ago | by
alcomini, Monmouth,South Wales.
A: Unfortunately there is no direct replacement for the Opal. The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Answered 250 days ago | The doc |
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Q: If I use the shower on heat setting 1 the water flow is just OK and the water temp is fine. If I use on heat setting 2 the water flow is very good but the water temp is just too high even when set to the lowest on the dial.
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Submitted 258 days ago | by
Jim, Windsor
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Answered 258 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Our Opal mk1 has a problem on the high power setting. After about 30sec of lovely warm water the temperature drops to cool (you can hear the shower go quieter) after a while (about 1 min) the water heats again only to cycle cooler/warmer etc later. To me the cycle time appears to be gradually getting longer for the cooler phase.
Low pressure light does NOT come on at all.
The showers works fine on the lower power setting (even at max temp/min flow on the dial), which is warm enough for summer but we need to repair/ replace before winter hits.
Thanks and apologies if you have already answered this query for others.
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Submitted 293 days ago | by
Dave, Midlands
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Answered 293 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: shower works normally but after a while it starts making noise,low power light comes on, water goes cold, on/off button wont work. it regulates itself after a while but sometimes it doesnt. you have to switch the shower off at the main switch
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Submitted 318 days ago | by
ade, london
Answered 318 days ago | Alastair
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Q: The shower started to run very hot then cold and back to hot then cold now it is just lukewarm. I checked the bottom TCO saw the blackened cables and found it to be open circuit. Before I replace this thermostat I wondered if there could be another underlying fault i.e. a faulty stabilizer valve, I changed this valve over a year ago due to water leaking from the pipe at the rear I believe. What symptom does a partially blocked hose/shower head cause?
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Submitted 330 days ago | by
Toroidial, Hampshire
A: The things to check first are.
1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
After you have checked the above you then need to find out what is causing the shower to run cool now. You are correct if there is no continuity across the outlet TCO that will mean that one of the elements will not be working and cause the shower to run cool The other thing you may want to check is the elements, see below. It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 329 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: hi there recently when i switch my shower on all the lights jump on and off but its still been working ok..now the low pressure light is on all the time along with the cold water light ( the light thats next to blue circle)...now its only cold water coming through...when i push the other buttons they wont come on ..is it the circuit board at fault cheers lee
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Submitted 332 days ago | by
drj, shetland
A: Yes it certainly sounds like a PCB fault. Answered 329 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My Mother has a Triton Opal Chrome 9.5kw, intermitantly it just shuts down completely, power lights, everything. If you turn it off at the isolator switch for 5-10 mins, it comes on again. What fault is this, is it repairable, if not, what other showers will replace, as I dont want to have to re-tile the Shower cubicle.
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Submitted 333 days ago | by
Handyman Son, Leeds
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 333 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: I have a TRITRON OPAL 10.5KW UNIT that does not switch off when the on/off switch pressed. The noen go off but the water keep running. I am assuming the switch is ok, the selinod opertate when pull cord is pulled, what else can it be?
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Submitted 350 days ago | by
frank, hertfordshire
Answered 350 days ago | Alastair
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Q: I own a Triton Opal rated 8.7-9.5kW. The shower was installed about 4 years ago and has worked perfectly until yesterday. When showering i noticed water leaking out underneath the casing NOT the plastic tube at the bottom of the unit. When the shower is switched off the leak stops. It only leaks when the shower is on. Also, the shower works as it should when it is switched on.
I have removed the cover to see where the water is leaking from. The incoming connection seems fine and the water seems to be coming out above the stabiliser valve, though i cant be certain.
Is this a common stabiliser valve fault, or does the fault lie elswhere?
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Submitted 359 days ago | by
barrobb, Wales
Answered 356 days ago | Alastair
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Q: the shower comes on ok but after a while the low pressure lioght illuminates and the water goes cold after a shortb time the water goes hot again.
this keeps on repeating. can you suggest an answer
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Submitted 367 days ago | by
davros, Stockport Cheshire
A: The first things to check are: 1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open. 2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore no power will get to the elements and the unit will show low pressure. Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve Finally when you turn the water on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator on top of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of the PCB make sure they are properly aligned. If all these are OK then you probably have a fault with your PCB. The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCB however they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the low pressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB. Answered 364 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: After a few minutes use the temperature suddenly drops to cold for 20 - 30 seconds before returning to normal. I have checked cold water valves are fully open cleaned shower head checked hose and all ok. I disconnected water supply and found gauze filter had disintegrated on the solenoid valve (12). Will replacing this solve the problem or is damage likely to be more extensive.
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Submitted 374 days ago | by
grumpy_DIY_plumber, Strathaven Lanarkshi
A: Looks like you have checked all the obvious things, however it still sounds like a water supply / pressure problem You could give your local water authority a ring and ask them what your water pressure should be, they will probably say that the supply a minimum of 1bar (the minimum required to operate a shower)however press them and ask what it is likely to be first thing in the morning (when everybody is showering) They could have the pressure turned down because they are working on the main, or because there is a burst pipe some where and they have turned the pressure down to try to save water, or the pressure maybe low just because there is a burst pipe somewhere, that hasn’t been discovered yet! Answered 370 days ago | The doc |
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Q: A small leak has now started and drips from the centre of the bottom of the plastic cover. Similar to a tap dripping every second. I have had the cover off but can't see where the leak is comming from.
Just a small amount of water in the bottom of the cover plate. I note that some electric wires are also in this area, although not sitting in the water.
Is it their a danger to continue to use, with this small leak, do i need to change the shower for a new one, or is it possible to repair ?
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Submitted 383 days ago | by
Dave, Peterborough
A: If you have a leak from the inside then yes it is potentially dangerous. My advice would be to switch off the power and dry the inside out carefully reassemble it switch the power on for a couple of mins then check again keep doing this until you trace the leak. The most common place for this to leak is from the top of the stabilizer/flow valve usually down the back of the valve so it can be difficult to spot, if it is this that is leaking then it is just a case of replacing it. Answered 383 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: is triton Opal shower still available (side entry)
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Submitted 387 days ago | by
ed, durham
A: The spares are still available however the shower its self is obsolete Answered 384 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: Thanks for your advice thus far. I removed the cover and listened and it seems to be coming from the area of the can assembly / solenoid valve (you will appreciate I did not want to get too close with the cover off). Strangely after removing the cover and starting the shower it was silent. Then when I switched it on and off again the buzzing came back. What do you suggest?
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Submitted 396 days ago | by
abdrahtav, London
A: As before I think it is the solenoid valve but couldn’t be sure without seeing it, however my advice would be replace the solenoid. Answered 396 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Can you advise what the following problem is and help? I have had my shower for around 4 years and for the past year or so, it shower has been making a constant buzzing sound when in operation. This sound has grown in severity and is now very loud (particularly annoying as my bedroom is adjacent to the bathroom and the noise is actually louder there). A friend mentioned it is likely that hard water has affected the shower and indeed this happens to all showers over time. PS: I purchased a new PCB a while back after experiencing problems with this shower.
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Submitted 397 days ago | by
abdurrahtav, London
A: Difficult without being able to see or hear where the sound is coming from, however I would suspect the solenoid valve. You will have to take the cover off and have a listen to see if you can work out where the noise is coming from. Take care because you have to do this live. Answered 397 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: my triton opal shower cuts out during use, there doesn't appear to be any consistent timing to the cut out.
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Submitted 415 days ago | by
colch, essex
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester It could also be a fault with the power PCB however you need to check the solenoid first. Answered 413 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: My Triton Opal shower cuts out generally once every use, there doesn't appear to be any particular trend to the timing of it though. I haven't noticed the low pressure light come on but with no glasses on and soap in my eyes it's hard to tell. Needless to say that when run for 10 minutes with no one under it, it doesn't stop.
Have you any ideas whats causing the problem.
regards
Colin
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Submitted 417 days ago | by
colin, Essex
A: Yes they have a sensor that makes sure that they only cut out when you are covered in soap! J It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 416 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: when turned off on two sign water boils and spitsa little water before clicking off
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Submitted 423 days ago | by
peter, liverpool
A: It sounds like one of the relays on the PCB is stuck in the on position which is keeping one of the elements energised. Until you replace the board use the isolation switch to switch the shower on and off Answered 420 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My shower was working ok then made a funny noise and the water pressure dropped and only ran luke warm
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Submitted 443 days ago | by
Grumpy, Durham
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably the power printed circuit board If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878
Once the fault is diagnosed then a new heating can or microswitch can be ordered online via the link below.
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-88-Triton-Opal
Answered 441 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: Shower gives hot water for around 30 seconds then goes cold.
Upper tco is ok on continuity across contacts.
Soleanoid resistance is around 3k.
Lower tco seems ok on continuity across contacts, however one of the wires is blackened at the tab receptacle and the tab is shaky on the tco - maybe heat damage?
If I just change the lower tco assembly should this cure my issue?
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Submitted 453 days ago | by
Jamesie, Renfrew, Scotland
Answered 453 days ago | Alastair
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Q: Dear Sir,
My shower is approx. 5years old.
Works on low heat position.
On high setting it works intermittently, I can hear a relay cutting in and out on the power pcb. Runs hot then aired.
The elements seem ok both giving 12 .5 ohms when checked.
Does this suggest faulty power pcb?
Many thanks,
Gordon Cooper
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Submitted 463 days ago | by
GC, United Kingdom
Answered 463 days ago | Alastair
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Q: loads of cold water pressure, when try to up the temp the pressure a bit lower (not bad), but only slightly tepid?. makes a noise and flickers from the top heat light to low presure. when I take cover off I noticed it sparks on the pcb board? is it the board or something else ?
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Submitted 468 days ago | by
h, newark
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably the printed circuit board If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878
Once you have established the fault the required part can be ordered online via the link below.
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-88-Triton-Opal Answered 466 days ago | Alastair A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably the printed circuit board If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries
(so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878
Once you have established the fault required part can be ordered online via the link below.
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-88-Triton-Opal Answered 466 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: I have a continual drip - not just the showerhead emptying after use.
Accumulates a couple of pints overnight.
Is it the seal in the solenoid valve - being either worn or partially blocked open (shower is c.7 yrs old).
If so, can I replace the seal, or do I have to replace the whole solenoid assembly?
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Submitted 483 days ago | by
steve, manchester
A: Hi I am afraid that it is the complete solenoid that will need replaced Answered 483 days ago | The Doc Answered 483 days ago | Alastair
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Q: hi, my shower has started leaking from the main box, it looks like it is comeing from the actuator, number 9 on your diagram ,is it likly to be that or the white block that it fits into ? thanks steve...
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Submitted 486 days ago | by
steve, barnsley
A: Leaking from the top of the stabilizer valve is a fairly common fault Answered 483 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Stop button turns off heaters but cold water keeps flowing. This stops when isolator switch is turned off. This occurred once before some months ago, then cleared itself. What controls the solenoid valve? Is there a relay in the black box top left? Advice would be appreciated.
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Submitted 498 days ago | by
GrahamB, Farnham, Surrey
A: If when you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid. When you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the water stops running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking on. Answered 497 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: hi
I have a triton opal 10.5 and the low pressure light is constantly on... i definitively know i do not have low pressure. i have cleaned the shower head (admittedly it was long overdue) and the problem still persists. Any suggestions.. do i need a new heater or other spare part or is it now a right off!
Pleased help
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Submitted 503 days ago | by
karma, london
A: The first things to check are: 1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open. 2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore no power will get to the elements and the unit will show low pressure. Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve Finally when you turn the water on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator on top of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of the PCB make sure they are properly aligned. If all these are OK then you probably have a fault with your PCB. The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCB however they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the low pressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB. George Click on the link below, choose the manufacturer of the shower you have, scroll down the list of parts and select the part number you require. You can then purchase the items online or call the office on 0131 443 9917 pressing option # 1 for spares. http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#588X0 Shedman20 (One of the forum contributors added this) Have a look at the circuit board that is directly behind the STOP button, mine had a hairline crack here, repaired with soldering iron and thin wire. Use a magnifying glass if necessary, could save you a few bob! Answered 502 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Hi. Had shower for a few years now without any problems and now only getting luke warm water. Covers off discovered some wiring burnt which has been replaced with new connections by qualified electrician. Then noticed that the 'sensor' on the outlet pipe assembly had also traces of slight burning. We by- passed this getting us hot water at last !!!
Question is can i get this sensor as a spare part or do i need the whole outlet assembly ?
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Submitted 504 days ago | by
Ronco, Edinburgh
A: Unfortunately it needs to be the outlet assembly Answered 502 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: shower stopped working and light has gone on on power switch
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Submitted 516 days ago | by
pip, cardiff
Answered 516 days ago | The doc
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Q: The temperature starts off as expected then gets colder and turning th dial does not increase the temperature. We have now turned the dial to the maximum number and the water is not hot enough.
What part do we need to replace?
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Submitted 528 days ago | by
Janet, Kent
Answered 528 days ago | Alastair
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Q: when turned on the shower gets up to temperature then the low pressure light comes on then it goes cold it even does it when the heat setting is on cold it keeps coming on then going off an getting back up to temperature then it happens again.The water flow is more than adequate though the unit has any one got any idea what it could be
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Submitted 529 days ago | by
birdy, wrexham
A: The first things to check are: 1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open. 2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore no power will get to the elements and the unit will show low pressure. Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve Finally when you turn the water on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator on top of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of the PCB make sure they are properly aligned. If all these are OK then you probably have a fault with your PCB. The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCB however they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the low pressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB. George Click on the link below, choose the manufacturer of the shower you have, scroll down the list of parts and select the part number you require. You can then purchase the items online or call the office on 0131 443 9917 pressing option # 1 for spares. http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#588X0 Shedman20 (One of the forum contributors added this) Have a look at the circuit board that is directly behind the STOP button, mine had a hairline crack here, repaired with soldering iron and thin wire. Use a magnifying glass if necessary, could save you a few bob! Answered 528 days ago | The doc |
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Q: Please can you sugest which part I need for the following problem.
The shower appears to function correctly. All lights work at correct time, water passes through the shower but the water is still stone cold.
Your advice would be much appreciated.
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Submitted 531 days ago | by
JJH, Yorkshire
A: If it is absolutely cold then you may have a faulty Thermal Cut Out
A faulty TCO will have no continuity across the two terminals (The black thing on top of the heating tank)
Therefore a good TCO will have power at both connections and a faulty TCO will have power at only one.
(The function of the TCO is, if the water over heats it cuts the power off to the elements) See Video. http://www.youtube.com/user/showerdoc#p/u/2/_zi8JbEMYMs If there is some heat then you may have a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 528 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Sirs, I have a Triton Opal 9.5 KW( how can you tell the exact wattage)Recently the temperature has been erratic. It has to be turned up to 9 or 10 to get a comfortable warm shower. During use it has been fluctuating from tepid to scalding. There is no indication of low pressure and the in line filter is clear. If the unit is non repairable can I fit a T80 10.5 KW as a replacement?
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Submitted 532 days ago | by
Raymondo, Dudley West Midlands
A: It may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it is the power printed circuit board If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10.
http://www.shower-warehouse.co.uk/erol.html#55x878
Once you have established the fault the required replacement part can be ordered online via the link below.
http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-PARENT-88-Triton-Opal Answered 531 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: I turn this off at the mains and the water stops, so you say its a faulty on/off switch, or a faulty pcb or a sticking micro switch.
Can you tell me the part numbers for the on/off switch, what pcb is it, control or power and the part number for the stcking micro switch, or what I could do to try and stop it sticking.
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Submitted 546 days ago | by
robp
Answered 545 days ago | The Doc A: Difficult to say without seeing it however it could be the knob that is broken or you have a faulty switching assembly. Answered 545 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: When using the shower on hot control, after a few minutes the water turns cold. If the control is turned to maximum the water does heat for a short time and then goes cold. Low pressure water light does not illuminate at all when this happens. The water pressure seems more that adequate. Advice on this problem would be most appreciated.
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Submitted 554 days ago | by
Al
Answered 553 days ago | Alastair
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Q: I have a opal 10.5 KW shower, it has been fine for 2/3 years but just recently we have had to keep it on number 1 on the hot setting, and it is almost too hot to bare, water pressure is good, putting it on the lower heat setting and turned up to 10 it is barely warm and you only get a very low pressure, we have replaced the shower head and hose. Any suggestions please.
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Submitted 560 days ago | by
Decibel
Answered 560 days ago | Alastair
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Q: I've just re-fitted our tritan opal after tilling. The red power led no has no light. I've checked the pullcord switch, this has power in and out. I've checked the the terminals in the shower unit, they have power in. I've checked thermo cut out switch (correct me if thats the wrong name/ item) on top of the tank, it has two live feeds that both have power.
So theres power but no fuction, the pcb was replaced in 2005 when it still under warranty, the board that comes away with cover that haa the led's and switchs on.
Thanks in advanve
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Submitted 566 days ago | by
Woc
A: The first things to check are: 1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open. 2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore no power will get to the elements and the unit will show low pressure. Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve Finally when you turn the water on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator on top of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of the PCB make sure they are properly aligned. If all these are OK then you probably have a fault with your PCB. The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCB however they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the low pressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB. George Shedman20 (One of the forum contributors added this) Have a look at the circuit board that is directly behind the STOP button, mine had a hairline crack here, repaired with soldering iron and thin wire. Use a magnifying glass if necessary, could save you a few bob! Answered 564 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: When the top button on the temperature setting is selected it clicks on and runs for about 2 seconds then shuts down and the low water pressure light comes on followed by the other setting lights coome oon one after the other then just the power indicator. If i sellect any of the other settings it will run normally and if i then switch to the top setting with the two red bars it will run normally .I only get a problem from a cold start as it were as if something needs to warm up befor it will select this high setting . there are noo leaks and i have changed the seloniod and this has not worked can you help me as to what the cause could be as this only started three days ago and i dont like coold showers many thanks carl standing by..
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Submitted 578 days ago | by
carl.
A: The first things to check are: 1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open. 2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore no power will get to the elements and the unit will show low pressure. Finally when you turn the water on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator on top of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of the PCB make sure they are properly aligned. If all these are OK then you probably have a fault with your power PCB. Answered 577 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: when the top button on the temperature setting is selected it clicks on then all of the other led lights on the other temperature settings come on one after the other then the unit switches off and will not stay on for more than 2 seconds. If i select one of the lower temperature settings the unit will stay on and run normally. I only get this problem when i select the setting with the two red bars below the switch if you can help with this issue i would be very greatfull.
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Submitted 579 days ago | by
carl.
A: Could be one of two faults it may be a faulty element in the heating tank (there are two, three in most 10kw showers) you can check them with a multi meter you should have a reading of around 12>18 ohms. If you have power to the elements and no heat it's probably the elements, no power to the elements then it's probably a micro switch. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them at £10 each with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses, letting you know much power you have left in batteries (so you know if they are dud or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth the £10. http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester If the elements are OK then you probably have a faulty power PCB Answered 577 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: My Triton Opal is just over 3yrs. old and has started to play up.
The water keeps running from normal to cold, after just a minute or so, and the low pressure light comes on as this is hapening.
The hand book seems to sugest low incomming pressure.
I have cleaned the incomming water filter.
The water outgoing pressure appears to be normal and is very good on the cold setting.
could you advise on this?
Many thanks
Keith
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Submitted 586 days ago | by
keith
A: The first things to check are: 1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open. 2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore no power will get to the elements and the unit will show low pressure. Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve Finally when you turn the water on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator on top of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of the PCB make sure they are properly aligned. If all these are OK then you probably have a fault with your PCB. The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCB however they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the low pressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB. Shedman20 (One of the forum contributors added this) Have a look at the circuit board that is directly behind the STOP button, mine had a hairline crack here, repaired with soldering iron and thin wire. Use a magnifying glass if necessary, could save you a few bob! Answered 584 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: I was using the shower a couple of days ago when water started coming out of a plastic tube behind the outlet. I switched off the shower then switched it back on hoping it would reset, but only got worse. Now the pressure is very low coming out of the shower head with most of the water coming out of this tube, should it have a cap on it or something? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
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Submitted 605 days ago | by
Scatty68
Answered 605 days ago | Alastair
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Q: The power indicator will not illuminate although there is power to the unit. The shower will not operate. I have removed the cover & the PCB was manufactured by Pektron in 1999 & has a label reading E2704LN on it.
How can i tell if the power PCB is faulty?
If it is - do you supply & what is the price.
Thanks
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Submitted 628 days ago | by
IBT
A: Check , using a meter there is a minimum of 230volts at the connector block in the shower if not then the isolation switch has gone high resistance and needs replaced. If power ok it is likely to be the solenoid coil, if you click on the link below it will take you to a video clip showing how to test and if needed change the coil and allow online ordering. If the coil is ok then it is likely to be the power pcb and we would need to know whether it is an Opal or an Opal II. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/HYDR-27600-Universal-Solenoid-Coil-(No-Valve) Answered 626 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: Sorry my problem seems to be coming from the stabiliser valve assembly not the pressure relief valve as i stated.
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Submitted 643 days ago | by
Lambretta
A: If the stabiliser valve is leaking from the top then it will be the diaphram in the pressure switch that has spilt, The diaphram cant be replaced and the complete stabilser will be needed.
Please check what KW rating shower you have befroe ordering as the stabilser valves are different for each kw rating : EG up to 9.5 kw requires P/N - 82600700 and for the 10.5 kw you require P/N - 82600810
Answered 642 days ago | SD |
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Q: First of all many thanks for the superb service, ordered the new coil for the opal yesterday and it came this morning. i have fitted it and the shower works again. The problem now is the shower is leaking water, i have switched it off, opened it up and it seems to be coming from the pressure relief device (though im not certain) any help would be appreciated.
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Submitted 643 days ago | by
Lambretta
A: If the water is leaking from the clear tube underneath the heater can and running out of the bottom of the shower then item 20 the PRD device needs replaced, Part number 83301330 Answered 642 days ago | SD |
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Q: Our shower has developed a leak at the stabiliser valve unit & now there is water coming through the plastic pipe next to the outlet pipe. Will it be wiser to replace the shower or part. It is about 4 years old.
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Submitted 653 days ago | by
billwhitt
A: Would recommend fitting spares. The leak at the plastic pipe is the pressure relief device which has activated, this may have been caused by a kinked or obstructed flexible hose so make sure it is ok.
If you click on the link below it will take you to the spares list and you can order online.
The stab valve is either item 10 or 11 dependent on wattage and the PRD is item 20. Answered 651 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: wehave the above shower and the main square on/off button at the top of the shower has fallen out. is there a spare availabe for this or would we need to replace the whole shower. thankyou
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Submitted 667 days ago | by
pets168
Answered 665 days ago | Alastair
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Q: As new to this forum, I have just found a way back in to the answer to my ‘low pressure indication’, question from Alistair, for which many thanks. I thought that I had posted a follow-up question yesterday, but as it has not appeared I will try again.
Alistair is correct in that it is a faulty PCB – to be more precise, the button switch at the bottom, which was gunged up with what looks like brown resin, although I don’t know where it came from. I have cleaned some of it off, but the switch still does not work and I can’t see the actual contacts inside the switch – I may try a bit of heat to melt the resin. Presumably the switch by itself is not available? Anyone got a duff board with a good switch?
The switch contact appears to be normally open and closed by the pressure paddle, so I will short the switch to prove the fault. If this does the trick, I am inclined to leave it like that! (The alternative being a £56, 10.5kW board.) Genuine low pressure is infrequent and hopefully would only result in some extra hot water, or at worst a damaged control PCB.
(As an aside, some time ago a plumber fitted an electric shower for a friend of mine which, when switched on, melted the solder on the boiler. He fitted another one and it did the same. It was only when I pointed out that he had got the inlet and outlet pipes reversed that the third one worked!)
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Submitted 677 days ago | by
GrahamB
A: Our advice is not to bypass the switch as you may be creating a safety issue and would strongly recommend fitting a new pcb. Answered 675 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: the shower wont turn off the only way i can get the water to stop is to turn off the stop cock. Works Ok otherwise.
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Submitted 677 days ago | by
porf
A: If when you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the shower keeps running then you have a faulty solenoid. When you switch off the shower at the main isolator and the water stops running, then you have a faulty on/off switch or a faulty PCB or a micro switch that is sticking on. So it sounds like you need a new solenoid valve Here is the link. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton/TRITO-83304130-Solenoid-valve-assembly Answered 677 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: turn dial right down to 1 water still very hot
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Submitted 692 days ago | by
dave
A: The things to check first are.
1 Is your shower connected to the water mains and you have a minimum pressure of 1bar
2 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open.
3 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open.
If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water
getting to your shower to cool it properly the overheat safety device will turn
the power off until it cools Then it all starts again
Make sure that the shower head is clean and clear, that the hose isn’t kinked (this can happen just behind the hand set where it is difficult to see) also check the inside of the hose although it can look OK on the outside it could have collapsed internally
Answered 692 days ago | The Doc |
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Q: Shower started showing symptoms of PRD activating with low pressure light coming on and unit going dead? Changed the PRD and tried to commission the unit but low pressure light still kicking in. Scottish Water checked mains pressure and got 2.5 - 3.0 bar which is fine they say. Prior to this prob the water seemed to be surging/pulsing. "HELP" What could be causing this. Is the unit knackered or is there some gremlin sneaked in somewhere. Cheers.
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Submitted 696 days ago | by
Scobb
A: The first things to check are: 1 That the main valve coming into your house is fully open. 2 Then check that the valve on the line to the shower is fully open. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower to open the pressure switch therefore no power will get to the elements and the unit will show low pressure. Forgetting about the temperature turn the shower from fully hot to fully cold at fully hot you should have not much more than a dribble coming from the hose and on fully cold you should have a good strong flow, if you do not have this difference then you may have a faulty flow/stabilizer valve Finally when you turn the water on, the top of the flow valve should rise, there is a plastic actuator on top of the valve this should press against a micro switch at the bottom of the PCB make sure they are properly aligned. If all these are OK then you probably have a fault with your PCB. The checks don’t guarantee that you have a faulty power PCB however they do eliminate just about every thing that could cause the low pressure fault and so the only thing left is the PCB. George Shedman20 (One of the forum contributors added this) Have a look at the circuit board that is directly behind the STOP button, mine had a hairline crack here, repaired with soldering iron and thin wire. Use a magnifying glass if necessary, could save you a few bob! Answered 696 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: Water pressure is more than adequate ie on 'full' cold water blasts out, but relay chatters and 'Low Pressure' indicator comes on, shutting off the heater. What senses the water pressure?
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Submitted 705 days ago | by
GrahamB
A: If you click on the link below it will take you to the parts diagram. The pressure is sensed by the stabiliser valve item 10/11 which operates a paddle on top which operates the button switch on the printed circuit board. From your description \i would suspect that the pcb is faulty and needs replacing.
Answered 703 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: Hello
I have a Triton Opal Chrome Shower. Whilst using it yesterday it tripped the breaker in the fuse box. After resetting the breaker the show now seems to operate only on the low power setting. Selecting the high power setting lights the LED but makes no difference to the water tempreature. Turning the tempreature dial does make the water hotter at the expense of preassure.
Can you suggest what replacment parts i require to rectify the fault?
Many Thanks in advance.
Scott
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Submitted 706 days ago | by
Scott
A: One of the heating elements in the heating can has blown. If you click on the link below it will take you to our Triton home page and you can select the appropriate heating can and order online. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/triton Answered 705 days ago | Alastair |
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Q: Hi, the water stops after a few seconds of the shower being turned on, the lights stay on. this first started after a few minutes now it seems to be a few seconds. The shower still makes the same noise as if it working as normal. Any ideas?
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Submitted 711 days ago | by
Martin
A: It may be your solenoid valve, you can check it if you have a multi meter, you should have a reading of at least k3.5 ohms, across the two terminals any less and you need a new valve. (Check the valve in the failed state.) (When it is not working!) If there is power getting to the solenoid and it is not operating then there is a good chance that you have a faulty solenoid. If you don’t have a multimeter we sell them with a guide on how to use them for checking and testing the various parts of your shower. Apart from helping to fix your shower, they are really useful for checking you have a power supply to appliances, for checking fuses and letting you know much power you have left in batteries (So you will know if they are good or not) and lots of other jobs, in short they are well worth a few pounds http://www.showerdoc.com/installation/electrical-products/SKYTRO-600-005-Digital-Multi-Tester Answered 711 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: hi my triton opal has occassionally 'tripped' the fuse. Hoever yesterday it tripped the main fuse and it wont go on at all! Electrician came out this am and said the 'element' was gone and be better replacing whole shower! Does that sound right? Is it very expensive to get one shower off and another on? does it have to be the same model? any advice much appreciated :) thanks
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Submitted 720 days ago | by
smiles333
A: If it is an element which has failed then a new heating tank can be fitted at much less cost than a new shower, however need to know whether it is an Opal or an Opal II and what the power rating is. It is also worth checking what the rating of the fuse or circuit breaker is, for the Opal it should be at least 40amps and preferably 45amps. If you click on the link below it will take you to our Triton home page and you can identify model and order parts online. http://www.showerdoc.com/shower-spares/tritonAlastair Answered 720 days ago | Anonymous |
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Q: The shower in question will not turn on or off using the power button.
It will opperate if the temperature setting buttons are pressed but will not turn off again unless you use the main isolator out side the room.
I can only presume that it is either the control pcb or the power pcb. Is there any way off telling which one it could be.
Regards
Paul hockey
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Submitted 727 days ago | by
silver surfer
A: Most likely to be the power pcb but the only way to tell is by substitution I`m afraid.
Alastair Answered 725 days ago | Alastair |
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